Thinkin' about satellite TV at the cabin. Checked azimuths by running
out from shore with GPS on. (My Corps of Engrs lensatic compass is in
the kitchen drawer back home). I think I have some shots thru the
tree canopy.

Zenith angle is about 30 above horizon in both cases. My options are
a bit limited here; I have a couple of shots at the required azimuth
angles but I may have to do or have done some tree-trimming. I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

The procedu throw or slingshot a rock or weight over lofty limb,
with flexible braided fishline attached. I like dacron. When ya
get that right, use line-over-lofty-limb to haul up the toothy chain
attached to more substantial lines. Then two operators cooperatively
play see-saw with the ropes. A fair amount of profanity accompanies
initial attempts but a bit of practice with an able partner smooths
that out soon enough. A key initial trick is to get and keep the
toothy chain flat-side vertical to get a cut started. Obviously
necessary but there's a rope-flicking trick to getting it done when
said toothy chain is 40 feet aloft. Fly-casting experience doesn't
hurt a bit.

Mar and I are pretty good at this. It is flat amazing how fast that
sucker cuts once ya get a cut started and a rhythm going. It's
thinner than even a Stihl chainsaw chain, it's sharp, and it somehow
cuts double-action.

The offending limb would drop into the lake, no prob there. We'd
winch it ashore for bucking and conversion to firewood. It would
definitely be neighborly to miss Zip's dock in the process...

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Walleyes NEVER bite that fast. I've never targeted bass. How do you get
them?

Karl

On Sun, 31 May 2009 00:41:00 -0500, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

Thinkin' about satellite TV at the cabin. Checked azimuths by running
out from shore with GPS on. (My Corps of Engrs lensatic compass is in
the kitchen drawer back home). I think I have some shots thru the
tree canopy.

As I just re-learned in the Master Gardener course a couple months
ago, any object within the felling range of a tree is known as a
"target". If you don't have a clear view for sat reception, you're
living in a real target zone.

Around here, most trees can come down free if someone wants the wood.
They'll often pay you for the priviledge, too.


Zenith angle is about 30 above horizon in both cases. My options are
a bit limited here; I have a couple of shots at the required azimuth
angles but I may have to do or have done some tree-trimming. I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

Those are good little units.


The offending limb would drop into the lake, no prob there. We'd
winch it ashore for bucking and conversion to firewood. It would
definitely be neighborly to miss Zip's dock in the process...

Ah reckon so.

-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Walleyes NEVER bite that fast. I've never targeted bass. How do you get
them?

Karl

C4 is good, but they are always out!

Steve

SteveB wrote:
C4 is good, but they are always out!


Oh, that would be a good " chainsaw-in-a-can"! Primacord would be even
better: put a wrap around the limb/tree & poof, it's cut. What does it
take to get that stuff, anyhow? A very specialized & rare license,
probably.

Bob

On Sun, 31 May 2009 00:41:00 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

snip
I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"

I remember those ring jobbers in old catalogs. Haven't seen
one recently though, but I don't receive catalogs like that
anymore either...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"
....

If he got it at REI, for sure it's not a "poor mans version" G.

I looked at the HF Users Manual. The part I liked best was this:

"Cutting the bottom of the branch first will prevent the limb from
peeling excess amounts of bark from the tree when the limb falls."

That would be a good trick (cutting the bottom of a branch first). I'd
like to see that demonstrated.

Bob

I have a couple of those saws. They will easily take out a 6" branch 25'
up in the air.

They used to be advertised in 'Popular Mechanics' and similar. I used to
love the picture showing a guy with his arms straight out to the sides,
one handle in each hand. NOT! OK, just maybe if he was practicing for
the olympic rings or something.



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"

I also have one of the 30" long cord with the rings on the ends. Rides
around in the 'emergency pac' that one person in our hiking group has to
carry.

I remember those ring jobbers in old catalogs. Haven't seen
one recently though, but I don't receive catalogs like that
anymore either...

Talking to a dish installer might reveal some other options. A friend's
installer put a small dish (Dish Network) at the top of a power pole on the
other side of his driveway, so you might have other options.. I've seen them
mounted just about anywhere imaginable.

There is a fairly new power tool that can cut low limbs. It looks more like
a weed trimmer, with a chain bar at the end (maybe 12").

There are also chain disks for angle grinders, made with a ring of chainsaw
chain secured around the circumference of a steel disk.
I think these are meant for rough planing wood, not specifically for cutting
through wood.

Probably no reason a HGLY handy guy like you couldn't make a lightweight
extension accessory for a reciprocating saw, for small limbs (tree limbs)
within reach of a volunteer on a ladder.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
Thinkin' about satellite TV at the cabin. Checked azimuths by running
out from shore with GPS on. (My Corps of Engrs lensatic compass is in
the kitchen drawer back home). I think I have some shots thru the
tree canopy.

Zenith angle is about 30 above horizon in both cases. My options are
a bit limited here; I have a couple of shots at the required azimuth
angles but I may have to do or have done some tree-trimming. I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

The procedu throw or slingshot a rock or weight over lofty limb,
with flexible braided fishline attached. I like dacron. When ya
get that right, use line-over-lofty-limb to haul up the toothy chain
attached to more substantial lines. Then two operators cooperatively
play see-saw with the ropes. A fair amount of profanity accompanies
initial attempts but a bit of practice with an able partner smooths
that out soon enough. A key initial trick is to get and keep the
toothy chain flat-side vertical to get a cut started. Obviously
necessary but there's a rope-flicking trick to getting it done when
said toothy chain is 40 feet aloft. Fly-casting experience doesn't
hurt a bit.

Mar and I are pretty good at this. It is flat amazing how fast that
sucker cuts once ya get a cut started and a rhythm going. It's
thinner than even a Stihl chainsaw chain, it's sharp, and it somehow
cuts double-action.

The offending limb would drop into the lake, no prob there. We'd
winch it ashore for bucking and conversion to firewood. It would
definitely be neighborly to miss Zip's dock in the process...

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

On Sun, 31 May 2009 16:23:00 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"
...

If he got it at REI, for sure it's not a "poor mans version" G.

I looked at the HF Users Manual. The part I liked best was this:

"Cutting the bottom of the branch first will prevent the limb from
peeling excess amounts of bark from the tree when the limb falls."

That would be a good trick (cutting the bottom of a branch first). I'd
like to see that demonstrated.

Bob
Work from a sky hook
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Sun, 31 May 2009 16:23:00 -0400, the infamous Bob Engelhardt
scrawled the following:

Leon Fisk wrote:
Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"
...

If he got it at REI, for sure it's not a "poor mans version" G.

I looked at the HF Users Manual. The part I liked best was this:

"Cutting the bottom of the branch first will prevent the limb from
peeling excess amounts of bark from the tree when the limb falls."

That would be a good trick (cutting the bottom of a branch first). I'd
like to see that demonstrated.

That's simple, Bob. Just work from your helicopter first, then from
the ground.

Ain't Chinglish fun?

-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------

On Sun, 31 May 2009 07:15:41 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:


Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Walleyes NEVER bite that fast. I've never targeted bass. How do you get
them?

Karl

That is only revealed in my boat, if then. G

On Sun, 31 May 2009 12:12:48 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

SteveB wrote:
C4 is good, but they are always out!


Oh, that would be a good " chainsaw-in-a-can"! Primacord would be even
better: put a wrap around the limb/tree & poof, it's cut. What does it
take to get that stuff, anyhow? A very specialized & rare license,
probably.

Bob

These limbs are of a size that would definitely respond to primacord.
One is a three-wrap, one wrap would do the other. There'd be no prob
using it here but it's been decades since I had ready access to demo
kit.

On Sun, 31 May 2009 15:22:46 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sun, 31 May 2009 00:41:00 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

snip
I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"

No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

Not being coy, I'm on dialup here nuff said.

On Sun, 31 May 2009 17:05:55 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

Talking to a dish installer might reveal some other options. A friend's
installer put a small dish (Dish Network) at the top of a power pole on the
other side of his driveway, so you might have other options.. I've seen them
mounted just about anywhere imaginable.

Yes, guys that do this for a living may have tricks and schemes I've
not thought of. There are issues to consider, though, and I don't
want a quickaminnit half-assed job that works until the truck is out
of sight and then is my maintenance problem.

Example: stick dish on tree. Tree grows, bonk.
Example: stick dish on planted 4x4 post (like a mailbox) near shore
with clear shot to southern sky. Too near shore,winter ice will
eventually shear that post like a toothpick.

There is a fairly new power tool that can cut low limbs. It looks more like
a weed trimmer, with a chain bar at the end (maybe 12").

There are also chain disks for angle grinders, made with a ring of chainsaw
chain secured around the circumference of a steel disk.
I think these are meant for rough planing wood, not specifically for cutting
through wood.

Probably no reason a HGLY handy guy like you couldn't make a lightweight
extension accessory for a reciprocating saw, for small limbs (tree limbs)
within reach of a volunteer on a ladder.

There is a definite shortage of 30' ladders and volunteers in these
parts.

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:46:09 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 31 May 2009 17:05:55 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

Talking to a dish installer might reveal some other options. A friend's
installer put a small dish (Dish Network) at the top of a power pole on the
other side of his driveway, so you might have other options.. I've seen them
mounted just about anywhere imaginable.

Yes, guys that do this for a living may have tricks and schemes I've
not thought of. There are issues to consider, though, and I don't
want a quickaminnit half-assed job that works until the truck is out
of sight and then is my maintenance problem.

Example: stick dish on tree. Tree grows, bonk.
Example: stick dish on planted 4x4 post (like a mailbox) near shore
with clear shot to southern sky. Too near shore,winter ice will
eventually shear that post like a toothpick.

There is a fairly new power tool that can cut low limbs. It looks more like
a weed trimmer, with a chain bar at the end (maybe 12").

There are also chain disks for angle grinders, made with a ring of chainsaw
chain secured around the circumference of a steel disk.
I think these are meant for rough planing wood, not specifically for cutting
through wood.

Probably no reason a HGLY handy guy like you couldn't make a lightweight
extension accessory for a reciprocating saw, for small limbs (tree limbs)
within reach of a volunteer on a ladder.

There is a definite shortage of 30' ladders and volunteers in these
parts.

Well, then shoot for the median. Find a good spot for the dish,
then plant your own bulletproof creosote phone pole to mount it on.

Get a local Communications or Utilities contractor with a Line Truck
to drill a hole with their augur and plant the pole, place augur-in
anchors and guy it from three or four sides to the top so it can't
sway (much), and place steel pole steps.

They have access to all that specialized hardware - and gaffing your
way up and down a lone clearance pole that isn't really in deep
enough, and isn't really big enough, and isn't guyed and is swaying
all over the place is NOT fun - DAMHIKT.

Place a standard buttplate ground and a ground riser wire up the
side to connect to the antenna, in case Zeus decides to try using your
pole for target practice. But I'd tap into that ground riser and
place a ring of driven ground rods around the base of the pole, to get
the resistance down.

The bottom steps can't be permanent, in case the local Munchkins get
the urge to climb the pole and take a swan dive to the pavement. So
the bottom four to six steps are special square-headed nails on
backing plates, and you use socketed removable pole steps.

-- Bruce --

On May 31, 11:05*am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Talking to a dish installer might reveal some other options. A friend's
installer put a small dish (Dish Network) at the top of a power pole on the
other side of his driveway, so you might have other options.. I've seen them
mounted just about anywhere imaginable.

There is a fairly new power tool that can cut low limbs. It looks more like
a weed trimmer, with a chain bar at the end (maybe 12").

There are also chain disks for angle grinders, made with a ring of chainsaw
chain secured around the circumference of a steel disk.
I think these are meant for rough planing wood, not specifically for cutting
through wood.

Probably no reason a HGLY handy guy like you couldn't make a lightweight
extension accessory for a reciprocating saw, for small limbs (tree limbs)
within reach of a volunteer on a ladder.

--
WB
.........
metalworking projectswww.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html

"Don Foreman" wrote in message

...

Thinkin' about satellite TV at the cabin. *Checked azimuths by running
out from shore with GPS on. *(My Corps of Engrs lensatic compass is in
the kitchen drawer back home). * *I *think I have some shots thru the
tree canopy.

Zenith angle is about 30 above horizon in both cases. *My options are
a bit limited here; *I have a couple of shots at the required azimuth
angles but I may have to do or have done *some tree-trimming. * I'm no
longer *about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. *That's the push-pull manual *job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for *Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. *We found *it at REI many years ago. *It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

The procedu *throw or slingshot a rock or weight over lofty limb,
with flexible braided *fishline attached. I like dacron. * *When ya
get that right, *use line-over-lofty-limb to haul up the toothy chain
attached to more substantial lines. * Then two operators cooperatively
play see-saw with the ropes. *A fair amount of profanity accompanies
initial attempts but a bit of practice with an able partner smooths
that out soon enough. * A key initial trick is to get and keep the
toothy chain flat-side vertical to get a cut started. *Obviously
necessary but there's a rope-flicking *trick to getting it done when
said toothy chain is 40 feet aloft. Fly-casting experience doesn't
hurt a bit.

Mar and I are pretty good at this. *It is flat amazing how fast that
sucker cuts once ya get a cut started and a rhythm going. * *It's
thinner than even a *Stihl chainsaw chain, it's sharp, and it somehow
cuts double-action.

The offending limb would drop into the lake, no prob there. * We'd
winch it ashore for *bucking and conversion to firewood. * * It would
definitely be neighborly to miss Zip's dock in the process...

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

They're for woodcarving
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=929
Karl

On May 31, 3:41 pm, Don Foreman wrote:

Don, can you use some of your artillery pieces, shoot it off? - its
only 30 feet,,,
Andrew VK3BFA.

On Sun, 31 May 2009 16:23:00 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"
...

If he got it at REI, for sure it's not a "poor mans version" G.

I looked at the HF Users Manual. The part I liked best was this:

"Cutting the bottom of the branch first will prevent the limb from
peeling excess amounts of bark from the tree when the limb falls."

That would be a good trick (cutting the bottom of a branch first). I'd
like to see that demonstrated.


C'mon, that's easy.

Loop over a higher branch on each side, under the one you want cut.

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:29:41 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

snip
No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

The last time I saw one of the ring jobbers was in a
Herter's catalog (I think, it was a long time ago). Had a
picture with it hooked into notches cut into a bent piece of
sapling, an improvised bow saw.

If you have a lot of stuff like that to do (limbs overhead),
Poulan makes a Pole pruner. It is about the least expensive
one I've seen in that line of equipment. See:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...n%20&%20Garden

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...8TP&lpage=none

I'd like to have one, but haven't been able to justify it
just yet. I'm still healthy enough and the old armstrong
method still works okay

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Don Foreman wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"

No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

Not being coy, I'm on dialup here nuff said.

Does it look like this one?

http://www.campingsurvival.com/pochsawofacu.html Web page

http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/campingsurvival_2055_55654851 dial up friendly image only.

Wes

Don Foreman wrote:
Thinkin' about satellite TV at the cabin. Checked azimuths by running
out from shore with GPS on. (My Corps of Engrs lensatic compass is in
the kitchen drawer back home). I think I have some shots thru the
tree canopy.

Zenith angle is about 30 above horizon in both cases. My options are
a bit limited here; I have a couple of shots at the required azimuth
angles but I may have to do or have done some tree-trimming. I'm no
longer about to climb a tree with a chainsaw in tow but there's one
offending limb I think we could drop easily enough with our
chainsaw-in-a-can. That's the push-pull manual job with rings on
either end, fits in a flat can that might have been made for Kiwi or
Coopenhagen. We found it at REI many years ago. It's meant for
cutting firewood for backpackers.

The procedu throw or slingshot a rock or weight over lofty limb,
with flexible braided fishline attached. I like dacron. When ya
get that right, use line-over-lofty-limb to haul up the toothy chain
attached to more substantial lines. Then two operators cooperatively
play see-saw with the ropes. A fair amount of profanity accompanies
initial attempts but a bit of practice with an able partner smooths
that out soon enough. A key initial trick is to get and keep the
toothy chain flat-side vertical to get a cut started. Obviously
necessary but there's a rope-flicking trick to getting it done when
said toothy chain is 40 feet aloft. Fly-casting experience doesn't
hurt a bit.

Mar and I are pretty good at this. It is flat amazing how fast that
sucker cuts once ya get a cut started and a rhythm going. It's
thinner than even a Stihl chainsaw chain, it's sharp, and it somehow
cuts double-action.

And it's cool how that clever pivoted weight on one end of the chain
puts the cutting side of the chain against the limb.


The offending limb would drop into the lake, no prob there. We'd
winch it ashore for bucking and conversion to firewood. It would
definitely be neighborly to miss Zip's dock in the process...

Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?


Just remember to wear safety goggles when using a high limb rope saw and
thus avoid getting drifting sawdust under your eyelids. (DAMHIKT)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:17:14 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 31 May 2009 07:15:41 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:


Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Walleyes NEVER bite that fast. I've never targeted bass. How do you get
them?

Karl

That is only revealed in my boat, if then. G
Last time I did that was with senior son in the bow of the canoe,
tossing a purple, artificial worm in a worm harness toward the shore.
A stringer of live Largemouth Bass can make steering a 12' canoe
somewhat interesting if they decide to go "thataway". My chum was not
impressed when I sent the photo to him as champ who bragged about
being the only fisherman to come back with two fish from that little
puddle.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Sun, 31 May 2009 16:23:00 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
Is that the poor mans version of one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"
...

If he got it at REI, for sure it's not a "poor mans version" G.

I looked at the HF Users Manual. The part I liked best was this:

"Cutting the bottom of the branch first will prevent the limb from
peeling excess amounts of bark from the tree when the limb falls."

That would be a good trick (cutting the bottom of a branch first). I'd
like to see that demonstrated.

It's easy. Loop (throw) the control wire over twice, position the
cutting teeth on the lower portion and give it a few strokes. You
needn't cut through a tremendous amount of material. Then throw the
control wire back over and cut from the top down. It's harder to
explain than do.

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 04:26:14 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On May 31, 3:41 pm, Don Foreman wrote:

Don, can you use some of your artillery pieces, shoot it off? - its
only 30 feet,,,
Andrew VK3BFA.
My Dad did that many years ago. We had a Spruce directly in front of
the house that was developing a long lead shoot which Dad wanted to
remove. One day when the buzz saw crew was eating lunch, someone
suggested that he try to shoot it off. Three shots with the twelve
gauge had little effect so he tried the .303 Savage, first shot and
four feet of spindly spruce came tumbling down. That was around 60
years ago and the tree still looked great when I drove by two months
ago.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 14:28:11 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk
scrawled the following:

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:29:41 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

snip
No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

The last time I saw one of the ring jobbers was in a
Herter's catalog (I think, it was a long time ago). Had a
picture with it hooked into notches cut into a bent piece of
sapling, an improvised bow saw.

If you have a lot of stuff like that to do (limbs overhead),
Poulan makes a Pole pruner. It is about the least expensive
one I've seen in that line of equipment. See:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...n%20&%20Garden

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...8TP&lpage=none

I'd like to have one, but haven't been able to justify it
just yet. I'm still healthy enough and the old armstrong
method still works okay

Ditto here. I picked up a $15 pole pruner and $4 folding pruning saw
from HF. Both work wonderfully and are cheap enough to lose.

For a large paying job, I'll rent a gas pole pruner and bill the
client.

-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 14:28:11 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:29:41 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

snip
No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

The last time I saw one of the ring jobbers was in a
Herter's catalog (I think, it was a long time ago). Had a
picture with it hooked into notches cut into a bent piece of
sapling, an improvised bow saw.

If you have a lot of stuff like that to do (limbs overhead),
Poulan makes a Pole pruner. It is about the least expensive
one I've seen in that line of equipment. See:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...n%20&%20Garden

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...8TP&lpage=none

I'd like to have one, but haven't been able to justify it
just yet. I'm still healthy enough and the old armstrong
method still works okay

Seems to me they'd be a bit hard to control on a 30-foot pole.

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 04:26:14 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On May 31, 3:41 pm, Don Foreman wrote:

Don, can you use some of your artillery pieces, shoot it off? - its
only 30 feet,,,
Andrew VK3BFA.

Don't laugh, my neighbors on both sides have actually tried to remove
limbs with 12-gage shotguns.

A .50 BMG could get it done, but I wouldn't be making any friends on
the south shore (about 1.5 miles distant) shooting a .50 at that high
angle. If I had a .50, that is, and not to mention the cost of ammo.

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 17:24:16 -0400, Wes wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97092

"High Limb Rope Chain Saw"

No. It's similar, but it's better and costs more -- but not much
more.

Not being coy, I'm on dialup here nuff said.

Does it look like this one?

http://www.campingsurvival.com/pochsawofacu.html Web page

http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/campingsurvival_2055_55654851 dial up friendly image only.

Wes

Bingo, Wes. Looks exactly like that. I've had it for many years.

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 19:29:54 -0400, Gerald Miller
wrote:

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:17:14 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 31 May 2009 07:15:41 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:


Meanwhile, fishin' is dozen-per-hour good. Bass, not walleyes, Karl.
Are we having fun yet, or whut?

Walleyes NEVER bite that fast. I've never targeted bass. How do you get
them?

Karl

That is only revealed in my boat, if then. G
Last time I did that was with senior son in the bow of the canoe,
tossing a purple, artificial worm in a worm harness toward the shore.
A stringer of live Largemouth Bass can make steering a 12' canoe
somewhat interesting if they decide to go "thataway". My chum was not
impressed when I sent the photo to him as champ who bragged about
being the only fisherman to come back with two fish from that little
puddle.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

The plastic worm in skilled hands is a very, very effective bass lure.
The key, once on fish, is in learning how to know when you have a
customer. Beginners wonder why I get so many more "takes" than they
do. I don't; they're getting far more "takes" than they know or even
suspect.