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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
For low volume work, what would you suggest?
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#2
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
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#3
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
look at what Roper Whitney has to offer - their web site is very helpful
wrote in message ... For low volume work, what would you suggest? ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#4
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
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#5
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
Depending on your definition of low volume, a step drill at low speed cuts
very smoothly, but 304 will eat the Chinese specials, so buy a good one in either M35 or M42 cobalt alloy. Please note that Chinese HSS tools rarely have any cobalt, because it is considered a stategic material and sales have been restricted to the Chicom state. Steve wrote in message ... For low volume work, what would you suggest? |
#6
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
On Dec 6, 1:57*am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
...Please note that Chinese HSS tools rarely have any cobalt, because it is considered a stategic material and sales have been restricted to the Chicom state. Steve Look at tungsten; http://www.moneyweek.com/investments...jor-money.aspx |
#7
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
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#9
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? A 10 ton press. Now if you are handy, you can make up a punch and die for an arbor press..at least a 15 tonner. Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well Gunner "They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania The trick a high shear angle on the punch, or an "M" configuration grind. You can cut the tonnage by 75% |
#10
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? A 10 ton press. Now if you are handy, you can make up a punch and die for an arbor press..at least a 15 tonner. Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well ..375 H&H Magnum should do it. Be a little deburring to do, but for a bunch of machinists like this, no problem. In fact, one might use a somewhat smaller cartridge so the metal doesn't expand oversize in the BAZ. Reaming would get the hole to exact size and take care of the deburring at the same time. |
#11
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
"John Husvar" wrote in message ... In article , Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? A 10 ton press. Now if you are handy, you can make up a punch and die for an arbor press..at least a 15 tonner. Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well .375 H&H Magnum should do it. Be a little deburring to do, but for a bunch of machinists like this, no problem. In fact, one might use a somewhat smaller cartridge so the metal doesn't expand oversize in the BAZ. Reaming would get the hole to exact size and take care of the deburring at the same time. Reversed wad-cutters made of carbide with the SS backed up with urethane. |
#12
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:50:23 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? A 10 ton press. Now if you are handy, you can make up a punch and die for an arbor press..at least a 15 tonner. Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well Gunner "They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania The trick a high shear angle on the punch, or an "M" configuration grind. You can cut the tonnage by 75% True enough..and for limited production, would be fine. 304 is not one of my favorite fab metals. Gunner "They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania |
#13
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
On Dec 6, 5:05*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
pasted On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well Gunner Punching pressure in mild steel: http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm 1.2 Ton hand punches: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm 4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the point on the punch into the dimple by feel. Jim Wilkins |
#14
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
In article , "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2008-12-06, wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? How far from the edge? If it is not too far from the edge, try the Roper-Whitney hole punch tool. There are two versions -- one with a 1-3/4" throat depth (model #5), and one with a 3-1/4" throat depth (model #xx). Apparently, only the larger size will handle punches as large as 3/8". From MSC's web site, the 3/8" punch and die set alone for the #xx are $23.57, while the set with various size punches (but not 3/8") costs $286.18. The punch and die sets which come with it a 5/32, 7/32, 9/32, 11/32, 13/32, 15/32, 17/32 I would suggest ordering more than one set of the 3/8" punch and die combinations, as your 304 SS will probably dull them fairly quickly, even at 18 ga. MSC #: 09271057 for the tool and the wrong size dies, and the 3/8" punch and die is MSC #: 09272428. Note that this is purely a hand tool, so if you want to do a lot of these per day, you might look for a stand mounted lever operated press instead -- perhaps an old one by DiAcro or some similar one. If you expect to need to punch other sizes at a later time, a DiAcro turret punch press would make sense, as you just rotate to bring other punches and dies into line for use. (Of course, the punches and dies are more expensive than those for the Roper-Whitney tools. I think 18 gauge SS is probably close to the limit on these. The XX might handle it, but the #5 definitely won't. Even it it did, it would get pretty tiring quickly. I'd vote for a good step drill. The TiN coated ones from McMaster should work nicely. Doug White |
#15
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
In article , Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:05=A0pm, Gunner Asch wrote: pasted On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well Gunner Punching pressure in mild steel: http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm 1.2 Ton hand punches: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm 4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the point on the punch into the dimple by feel. Usign the tonage chart and the multiplier for SS, the smaller one won't hack it. It's rated for 1.2 tons, and the force required for mild steel is 1.4 tons. Throw in the factor for SS and you are way over what it can handle. The big one would be fine, but is pretty big & expensive. A step drill is much cheaper. There is one of the punches on eBay at the moment for $1400, and another for $800. Doug White |
#16
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What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?
On 2008-12-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:05*pm, Gunner Asch wrote: pasted On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote: For low volume work, what would you suggest? Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to punch/shear Roughly. Often times a bit more. What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference as well Gunner Punching pressure in mild steel: http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm 1.2 Ton hand punches: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm O.K. So even the XX size is too weak for a 3/8" hole in 20 ga even in mild steel -- and certainly not in 304 SS. 4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch: http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm However -- *this* should do the job quite well. I didn't know that they had that -- but I'm glad to see that they do. I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the point on the punch into the dimple by feel. Same problem with the hand punches. But they still make some jobs easier to do. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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