Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

For low volume work, what would you suggest?
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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

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For low volume work, what would you suggest?


357 Mag and ream to final size...
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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

look at what Roper Whitney has to offer - their web site is very helpful



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For low volume work, what would you suggest?



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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

Depending on your definition of low volume, a step drill at low speed cuts
very smoothly, but 304 will eat the Chinese specials, so buy a good one in
either M35 or M42 cobalt alloy. Please note that Chinese HSS tools rarely
have any cobalt, because it is considered a stategic material and sales have
been restricted to the Chicom state.
Steve

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For low volume work, what would you suggest?





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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

On Dec 6, 1:57*am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
...Please note that Chinese HSS tools rarely
have any cobalt, because it is considered a stategic material and sales have
been restricted to the Chicom state.
Steve


Look at tungsten;
http://www.moneyweek.com/investments...jor-money.aspx
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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

On 2008-12-06, wrote:
For low volume work, what would you suggest?


How far from the edge?

If it is not too far from the edge, try the Roper-Whitney hole
punch tool. There are two versions -- one with a 1-3/4" throat depth
(model #5), and one with a 3-1/4" throat depth (model #xx). Apparently,
only the larger size will handle punches as large as 3/8".

From MSC's web site, the 3/8" punch and die set alone for the
#xx are $23.57, while the set with various size punches (but not 3/8")
costs $286.18.

The punch and die sets which come with it a 5/32, 7/32,
9/32, 11/32, 13/32, 15/32, 17/32

I would suggest ordering more than one set of the 3/8" punch and
die combinations, as your 304 SS will probably dull them fairly quickly,
even at 18 ga.

MSC #: 09271057 for the tool and the wrong size dies, and the
3/8" punch and die is MSC #: 09272428.

Note that this is purely a hand tool, so if you want to do a lot
of these per day, you might look for a stand mounted lever operated press
instead -- perhaps an old one by DiAcro or some similar one. If you
expect to need to punch other sizes at a later time, a DiAcro turret
punch press would make sense, as you just rotate to bring other punches
and dies into line for use. (Of course, the punches and dies are more
expensive than those for the Roper-Whitney tools.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

On Dec 6, 5:05*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
pasted
On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote:
For low volume work, what would you suggest?


Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to
punch/shear
Roughly. Often times a bit more.
What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference
as well
Gunner


Punching pressure in mild steel:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm

1.2 Ton hand punches:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm

4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm

I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky
to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so
it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well
for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work
guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the
point on the punch into the dimple by feel.

Jim Wilkins
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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

In article , "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2008-12-06, wrote:
For low volume work, what would you suggest?


How far from the edge?

If it is not too far from the edge, try the Roper-Whitney hole
punch tool. There are two versions -- one with a 1-3/4" throat depth
(model #5), and one with a 3-1/4" throat depth (model #xx). Apparently,
only the larger size will handle punches as large as 3/8".

From MSC's web site, the 3/8" punch and die set alone for the
#xx are $23.57, while the set with various size punches (but not 3/8")
costs $286.18.

The punch and die sets which come with it a 5/32, 7/32,
9/32, 11/32, 13/32, 15/32, 17/32

I would suggest ordering more than one set of the 3/8" punch and
die combinations, as your 304 SS will probably dull them fairly quickly,
even at 18 ga.

MSC #: 09271057 for the tool and the wrong size dies, and the
3/8" punch and die is MSC #: 09272428.

Note that this is purely a hand tool, so if you want to do a lot
of these per day, you might look for a stand mounted lever operated press
instead -- perhaps an old one by DiAcro or some similar one. If you
expect to need to punch other sizes at a later time, a DiAcro turret
punch press would make sense, as you just rotate to bring other punches
and dies into line for use. (Of course, the punches and dies are more
expensive than those for the Roper-Whitney tools.


I think 18 gauge SS is probably close to the limit on these. The XX
might handle it, but the #5 definitely won't. Even it it did, it would
get pretty tiring quickly. I'd vote for a good step drill. The TiN
coated ones from McMaster should work nicely.

Doug White
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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

In article , Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:05=A0pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
pasted
On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote:
For low volume work, what would you suggest?


Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to
punch/shear
Roughly. Often times a bit more.
What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference
as well
Gunner


Punching pressure in mild steel:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm

1.2 Ton hand punches:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm

4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm

I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky
to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so
it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well
for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work
guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the
point on the punch into the dimple by feel.


Usign the tonage chart and the multiplier for SS, the smaller one won't
hack it. It's rated for 1.2 tons, and the force required for mild steel
is 1.4 tons. Throw in the factor for SS and you are way over what it can
handle. The big one would be fine, but is pretty big & expensive. A
step drill is much cheaper. There is one of the punches on eBay at the
moment for $1400, and another for $800.

Doug White


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Default What tool to punch a .375" hole in 18 Gauge 304 Stainless Sheet?

On 2008-12-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:05*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
pasted
On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:49:23 -0800 (PST), wrote:
For low volume work, what would you suggest?


Stainless steel requires 1.5x the energy as standard steel to
punch/shear
Roughly. Often times a bit more.
What size work piece and where the holes are at, makes a big difference
as well
Gunner


Punching pressure in mild steel:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/tech/chart1.cfm

1.2 Ton hand punches:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm


O.K. So even the XX size is too weak for a 3/8" hole in 20 ga
even in mild steel -- and certainly not in 304 SS.

4 Ton Deep Throat bench punch:
http://www.roperwhitney.com/punching/2-14.cfm


However -- *this* should do the job quite well. I didn't know
that they had that -- but I'm glad to see that they do.

I used the bench one quite a bit at one job. The lower die is tricky
to install, it's both located and held in place by four setscrews so
it shifts as you tighten the screws. Otherwise it worked quite well
for the one-off test equipment I was building. It didn't have work
guides so you need to center-punch each hole location and wiggle the
point on the punch into the dimple by feel.


Same problem with the hand punches. But they still make some
jobs easier to do.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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