Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Grant Erwin
 
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Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?

Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a curve very
similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to be perfect, but
shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue them up to
form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID profile. After the
glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a faceplate and use wood turning
techniques to generate a form. Screw the form down to a table securely, measure
its diameters at several locations, then using projection techniques lay out six
strips on flat sheet metal. The strips would be drawn and cut such that they
could be stitched together with vertical seams to make the part. Then I was
thinking of rolling a flat curve in the strips such that they would touch the
form in the middle of each strip. Then, using several helpers probably, arrange
the strips around the form and use a big radiator hose clamp to pull them all
into the form about half an inch below the form's top lip. If I could succeed in
getting the clamp tight and the pieces all aligned, then it should be possible
to tack weld the pieces at the top, and then work my way down the form tacking
along the seams like zipping up a zipper. I figure that would take a fair amount
of peening with a hammer to stretch the metal, but it seems like it could be
done. Then pop it off the form and weld it up solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I could just cut
out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder or something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the one Bob
Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it won't go away
for a bit: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?


Grant Erwin wrote:
Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a curve very
similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to be perfect, but
shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue them up to
form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID profile. After the
glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a faceplate and use wood turning
techniques to generate a form. Screw the form down to a table securely, measure
its diameters at several locations, then using projection techniques lay out six
strips on flat sheet metal. The strips would be drawn and cut such that they
could be stitched together with vertical seams to make the part. Then I was
thinking of rolling a flat curve in the strips such that they would touch the
form in the middle of each strip. Then, using several helpers probably, arrange
the strips around the form and use a big radiator hose clamp to pull them all
into the form about half an inch below the form's top lip. If I could succeed in
getting the clamp tight and the pieces all aligned, then it should be possible
to tack weld the pieces at the top, and then work my way down the form tacking
along the seams like zipping up a zipper. I figure that would take a fair amount
of peening with a hammer to stretch the metal, but it seems like it could be
done. Then pop it off the form and weld it up solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I could just cut
out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder or something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the one Bob
Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it won't go away
for a bit: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington


First thing I thought of was that looks a lot like a torque converter
housing. Second thought was a whole lot of effort went into it for
something that can be bought, cheap.

There's any number of makers of vibratory polishers used for polishing
brass cases in the handloading hobby, how about buying a nice "pumpkin"
from one of those, if you just gotta build? Here's one outfit that's
got a bowl:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=393069
Don't know about you, but I can't crank one out for $10

The whole works runs about $50:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=317981
Same comment applies.

What's your time worth?

My current polisher is a Thumbler's, takes around 16 lbs of media and
has polished just about any small part I've wanted to put in there,
lots of cartridge cases, too.

Is the aim to polish parts or build tools? There is no right answer
here. My philosphy is to buy the item, if it's cheap enough and
readily available, and get on with the job. Both conditions would seem
to be satisfied here.

Stan

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Ken Cutt
 
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Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?

Grant Erwin wrote:
Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a
curve very similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to be
perfect, but shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue
them up to form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID
profile. After the glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a
faceplate and use wood turning techniques to generate a form. Screw the
form down to a table securely, measure its diameters at several
locations, then using projection techniques lay out six strips on flat
sheet metal. The strips would be drawn and cut such that they could be
stitched together with vertical seams to make the part. Then I was
thinking of rolling a flat curve in the strips such that they would
touch the form in the middle of each strip. Then, using several helpers
probably, arrange the strips around the form and use a big radiator hose
clamp to pull them all into the form about half an inch below the form's
top lip. If I could succeed in getting the clamp tight and the pieces
all aligned, then it should be possible to tack weld the pieces at the
top, and then work my way down the form tacking along the seams like
zipping up a zipper. I figure that would take a fair amount of peening
with a hammer to stretch the metal, but it seems like it could be done.
Then pop it off the form and weld it up solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I could
just cut out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder or something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the one
Bob Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it won't
go away for a bit: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington


What about the base from an old electric fan from a pawn shop ?
Ken Cutt
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R. O'Brian
 
Posts: n/a
Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?

Way too much work. Get a cast aluminum farm or yard bell and modify to
suit. They come in several sizes and shapes and are relatively cheap if
your time is worth anything. Most of them are thick enough to allow some
shape customization. For example

http://www.ponddoc.com/HG/Gardens/Be...rm%20Bells.htm

Randy




"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a curve
very similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to be perfect,
but shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue them
up to form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID profile.
After the glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a faceplate and use
wood turning techniques to generate a form. Screw the form down to a table
securely, measure its diameters at several locations, then using
projection techniques lay out six strips on flat sheet metal. The strips
would be drawn and cut such that they could be stitched together with
vertical seams to make the part. Then I was thinking of rolling a flat
curve in the strips such that they would touch the form in the middle of
each strip. Then, using several helpers probably, arrange the strips
around the form and use a big radiator hose clamp to pull them all into
the form about half an inch below the form's top lip. If I could succeed
in getting the clamp tight and the pieces all aligned, then it should be
possible to tack weld the pieces at the top, and then work my way down the
form tacking along the seams like zipping up a zipper. I figure that would
take a fair amount of peening with a hammer to stretch the metal, but it
seems like it could be done. Then pop it off the form and weld it up
solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I could
just cut out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder or
something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the one
Bob Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it won't
go away for a bit: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington



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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Grant Erwin
 
Posts: n/a
Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?

So how would I weld an aluminum bell to a steel shell?

GWE

R. O'Brian wrote:
Way too much work. Get a cast aluminum farm or yard bell and modify to
suit. They come in several sizes and shapes and are relatively cheap if
your time is worth anything. Most of them are thick enough to allow some
shape customization. For example

http://www.ponddoc.com/HG/Gardens/Be...rm%20Bells.htm

Randy




"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...

Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a curve
very similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to be perfect,
but shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue them
up to form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID profile.
After the glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a faceplate and use
wood turning techniques to generate a form. Screw the form down to a table
securely, measure its diameters at several locations, then using
projection techniques lay out six strips on flat sheet metal. The strips
would be drawn and cut such that they could be stitched together with
vertical seams to make the part. Then I was thinking of rolling a flat
curve in the strips such that they would touch the form in the middle of
each strip. Then, using several helpers probably, arrange the strips
around the form and use a big radiator hose clamp to pull them all into
the form about half an inch below the form's top lip. If I could succeed
in getting the clamp tight and the pieces all aligned, then it should be
possible to tack weld the pieces at the top, and then work my way down the
form tacking along the seams like zipping up a zipper. I figure that would
take a fair amount of peening with a hammer to stretch the metal, but it
seems like it could be done. Then pop it off the form and weld it up
solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I could
just cut out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder or
something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the one
Bob Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it won't
go away for a bit: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington






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Martin H. Eastburn
 
Posts: n/a
Default forming an um "horn bell" out of 16 gauge sheet steel?

Braze ? Aluminum solders with a Tin solder... ? Since it will be hit ... Braze if you can.
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member


Grant Erwin wrote:
So how would I weld an aluminum bell to a steel shell?

GWE

R. O'Brian wrote:

Way too much work. Get a cast aluminum farm or yard bell and modify
to suit. They come in several sizes and shapes and are relatively
cheap if your time is worth anything. Most of them are thick enough
to allow some shape customization. For example

http://www.ponddoc.com/HG/Gardens/Be...rm%20Bells.htm

Randy




"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...

Picture the end of a trombone that the music comes out of. That's a
curve very similar to one I want to make one of. It doesn't have to
be perfect, but shouldn't have any abrupt discontinuities.

Here's my first thought: cut out a bunch of plywood circles and glue
them up to form a rough blank a bit larger than the desired shape ID
profile. After the glue dries, screw the largest flat face to a
faceplate and use wood turning techniques to generate a form. Screw
the form down to a table securely, measure its diameters at several
locations, then using projection techniques lay out six strips on
flat sheet metal. The strips would be drawn and cut such that they
could be stitched together with vertical seams to make the part. Then
I was thinking of rolling a flat curve in the strips such that they
would touch the form in the middle of each strip. Then, using several
helpers probably, arrange the strips around the form and use a big
radiator hose clamp to pull them all into the form about half an inch
below the form's top lip. If I could succeed in getting the clamp
tight and the pieces all aligned, then it should be possible to tack
weld the pieces at the top, and then work my way down the form
tacking along the seams like zipping up a zipper. I figure that would
take a fair amount of peening with a hammer to stretch the metal, but
it seems like it could be done. Then pop it off the form and weld it
up solidly using a MIG welder.

Sure sounds like a bitch though. I wish there were a nice shape I
could just cut out and use, like the top of an old welding cylinder
or something.

I'm working on a design for a shopbuilt vibratory tumbler, like the
one Bob Engelhardt made which is pictured:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/vibepolisher.jpg

Bob used a turned wood form. I put his picture in a place where it
won't go away for a bit:
http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/conemandrel.jpg

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington






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