A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote: (clip) She was not impressed.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
But her hood was.
(clip) Enough to know the key is preparation. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The key to durability and good adhesion is preparation. The key to
satisfying *her* is smooth application. No runs. No orange peel. This
hood is right in front of her eyes whenever she drives the car. Is she the
kind of person who will look at a tiny bubble on one corner of the hood and
become increasingly irritated?

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Karl Townsend" wrote: (clip) She was not impressed.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
But her hood was.
(clip) Enough to know the key is preparation. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The key to durability and good adhesion is preparation. The key to
satisfying *her* is smooth application. No runs. No orange peel. This
hood is right in front of her eyes whenever she drives the car. Is she
the kind of person who will look at a tiny bubble on one corner of the
hood and become increasingly irritated?

I made the mistake of blaming her for parking in front of the weld shop
entrance. What do you think?

Karl

I made the mistake of blaming her for parking in front of the weld shop
entrance. What do you think?

Karl

Well Karl, now you're screwed. Lets see, if you paint it, it'll cost
$200.00 plus lots of time sanding.
Then you have to pay $500.00 to make her happy. She's going to take it
in to be painted anyway. Now it cost $700.00. LOL.

Actually, you should make sure the wax is gone. So purchase a wax
remover.
Rough sand 220 grit dry. Fill all the little dings with spot putty and
sand some more. Do that until it is perfect.
Spray Primer Sealer. No sanding the sealer, put the color right over
it.
Spray Color coat / Clear coat combination.
I used to buy Deltron color coat / clear coat from Ditzler. It sprays
like lacquer. Don't know if it's still available.
Have you got an air dryer? Moisture is terrible.

Karl Townsend wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...
"Karl Townsend" wrote: (clip) She was not impressed.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
But her hood was.
(clip) Enough to know the key is preparation. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The key to durability and good adhesion is preparation. The key to
satisfying *her* is smooth application. No runs. No orange peel. This
hood is right in front of her eyes whenever she drives the car. Is she
the kind of person who will look at a tiny bubble on one corner of the
hood and become increasingly irritated?

I made the mistake of blaming her for parking in front of the weld shop
entrance. What do you think?

I think you just ****ed her off a second time.

Been there, done that.

On Nov 24, 3:01*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

When a panel is painted by itself the likelihood of it matching the
adjacent panels is nil. The typical method is to blend into the
surrounding panels, hence the $500.

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 12:20:44 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Nov 24, 3:01Â*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

When a panel is painted by itself the likelihood of it matching the
adjacent panels is nil. The typical method is to blend into the
surrounding panels, hence the $500.

And blended paint jobs look like crap 6 months later. For a full
panel, like a hood, I say paint it OFF THE CAR, and install it after
the paint is fully hardened. Wet sand with 2500 grit and polish and if
you got the right paint it will match. Use a slow reducer on metalics
to let the flake lie down.

Karl Townsend wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl



Take it in anyway.
BC/CC red is going to cost you about 150 for the paint, Then you can
plan on scuffing the hood, fenders and posts on the car. Then mask it
off and shoot it. You need to do this because just painting the hood
won't work. You have to shoot the hood and then blend the new paint into
the old so it doesn't show. Even then anyone who has real experience
with painting will know it has been painted. That is because red is a
BIT%^ to match in many cases. Also you will NEVER match the factory
paint exactly. Why? because your not a robot shooting with an
electrostatic gun.

If a shop does it, they do the work, they also guarantee the work.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Karl Townsend wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl


I suggest you broaden your search and find a hood the right color. even
shipping it in from out of state would save you money.
I've done this several times with good results.

Karl Townsend wrote:

A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

Check with your local tech schools that have an auto body program, they
are known for doing affordable paint jobs so they have vehicles for the
students to practice on. I've seen a few vehicles painted this way and
the results were good.

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 14:01:53 -0600, the infamous "Karl Townsend"
scrawled the following:

A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I got a $3,500-$4,000 quote to paint my old '90 F-150 the same color a
couple years ago. thud


I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

I was a wrench in a body shop for 5 years and hung out with the
painter most slow days. Here's his method:

UNDERSIDE: scuff, clean to pristine, paint. (top stripped first)

TOPSIDE: Strip to bare metal, clean to pristine, prime, fill any tiny
dings, sand, prime, sand, prime, paint, rub out, second coat
(optional), rub out, clearcoat, rub out. Wait at least a month, add
sealant/wax.

You're damned lucky it's not a metalflake, Karl.

Ask several local body shops "How much to spray it if -I- prep it?"
Prolly $200 with paint, so go for it. It's a bitch to do right.

---
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
--John Wayne (1907 - 1979)

YOUR WASTING YOUR TIME .ONLY WAY TO GET IT RIGHT IS PAINT THE WHOLE CAR.

sal

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just
got a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know
the key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I
know it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear
coat) If I don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 17:02:40 -0600, "sal" wrote:

YOUR WASTING YOUR TIME .ONLY WAY TO GET IT RIGHT IS PAINT THE WHOLE CAR.

sal

Or to buy a used hood from the wrecking yard, which is exactly what Id
do.

Gunner


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
tanews.com...
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just
got a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know
the key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I
know it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear
coat) If I don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl




"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..."
Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 14:01:53 -0600, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

You won't save much (if any) doing it yourself. You will need:
DA sander
sanding discs in various grits
respirator, NIOSH rated for urethane and epoxy paints
two-part epoxy primer
highbuild primer, like Kondar
reducer for the highbuild primer
wetordry paper, 400 grit to wetsand the high-build
sealer like DAS1980
base coat in the right color. red is among the most expensive
correct reducer for the basecoat
clearcoat
clearcoat catalyst
correct reducer for the clearcoat

OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

Several years ago, I was putting a new drain valve on a low spot in my
irrigation line and I didn't have the correct gate valve. So, I sent my
better half to town to get what she could find and ended up installing a POS
Chinese one from the discount store. (This is four feet under ground and
reached by putting a vertical pipe over the handle and then a stick and
fork)

Well, just before freeze up, I try to drain the line and the handle broke
off. No big deal, I get the back hoe to dig it out. BUT, I for got the line
Tee from the main four feet at this header and I hit the main with the
backhoe and bust it all up. Now I'm in trouble. It took week to get the
parts, about $400 worth. it rained in the mean time and the hole was a slimy
mess. I turned out I had to dig the line up for thirty feet in the mud and
most of it by hand. I ended up spending four days on the job. it was so
muddy, that I couldn't use the loader to push the dirt back in the hole, the
tractor just would spin the rear tires.

The drain Valve I got, didn't look that much better, so I said, I'll put a
four foot culvert down to it. Nice and large, keep the valve handle out in
the open. I hook a chain on to the culvert and drive back to the shop. The
kid has parked his car where I should go, the wife has parked eight feet to
the other side. I'm a slime ball mess, so I try driving the tractor right
between the cars. I should have looked back sooner, that culvert caught on
the concrete lip and stood straight up. It must have taken 15 seconds before
it started tipping over, of course directly at her car.

Then I made my biggest mistake, I blamed her for parking all her stuff in
front of my shop.

We had turned in a total loss to insurance a year ago and a fender bender
shortly before that. So, I shopped for a used hood thinking I could just
paint it myself. I'm worried the company will jack out rates for being
accident prone.

Anyway, that ten dollar valve is costing about $1200 to replace and about
four days of the most awful work you could ever do. Plus, the wife will tell
this story for years.

Karl

On Tue, 25 Nov 2008 06:04:25 -0600, the infamous "Karl Townsend"
scrawled the following:

OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

Several years ago, I was putting a new drain valve on a low spot in my
irrigation line and I didn't have the correct gate valve. So, I sent my
better half to town to get what she could find and ended up installing a POS
Chinese one from the discount store. (This is four feet under ground and
reached by putting a vertical pipe over the handle and then a stick and
fork)

Well, just before freeze up, I try to drain the line and the handle broke
off. No big deal, I get the back hoe to dig it out. BUT, I for got the line
Tee from the main four feet at this header and I hit the main with the
backhoe and bust it all up. Now I'm in trouble. It took week to get the
parts, about $400 worth. it rained in the mean time and the hole was a slimy
mess. I turned out I had to dig the line up for thirty feet in the mud and
most of it by hand. I ended up spending four days on the job. it was so
muddy, that I couldn't use the loader to push the dirt back in the hole, the
tractor just would spin the rear tires.

The drain Valve I got, didn't look that much better, so I said, I'll put a
four foot culvert down to it. Nice and large, keep the valve handle out in
the open. I hook a chain on to the culvert and drive back to the shop. The
kid has parked his car where I should go, the wife has parked eight feet to
the other side. I'm a slime ball mess, so I try driving the tractor right
between the cars. I should have looked back sooner, that culvert caught on
the concrete lip and stood straight up. It must have taken 15 seconds before
it started tipping over, of course directly at her car.

Then I made my biggest mistake, I blamed her for parking all her stuff in
front of my shop.

We had turned in a total loss to insurance a year ago and a fender bender
shortly before that. So, I shopped for a used hood thinking I could just
paint it myself. I'm worried the company will jack out rates for being
accident prone.

Anyway, that ten dollar valve is costing about $1200 to replace and about
four days of the most awful work you could ever do. Plus, the wife will tell
this story for years.

And you had the balls to ask about painting her hood...after all
_that_?

Atta Boy! bseg

---
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
--John Wayne (1907 - 1979)

On Tue, 25 Nov 2008 06:04:25 -0600, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

Several years ago, I was putting a new drain valve on a low spot in my
irrigation line and I didn't have the correct gate valve. So, I sent my
better half to town to get what she could find and ended up installing a POS
Chinese one from the discount store. (This is four feet under ground and
reached by putting a vertical pipe over the handle and then a stick and
fork)

Well, just before freeze up, I try to drain the line and the handle broke
off. No big deal, I get the back hoe to dig it out. BUT, I for got the line
Tee from the main four feet at this header and I hit the main with the
backhoe and bust it all up. Now I'm in trouble. It took week to get the
parts, about $400 worth. it rained in the mean time and the hole was a slimy
mess. I turned out I had to dig the line up for thirty feet in the mud and
most of it by hand. I ended up spending four days on the job. it was so
muddy, that I couldn't use the loader to push the dirt back in the hole, the
tractor just would spin the rear tires.

The drain Valve I got, didn't look that much better, so I said, I'll put a
four foot culvert down to it. Nice and large, keep the valve handle out in
the open. I hook a chain on to the culvert and drive back to the shop. The
kid has parked his car where I should go, the wife has parked eight feet to
the other side. I'm a slime ball mess, so I try driving the tractor right
between the cars. I should have looked back sooner, that culvert caught on
the concrete lip and stood straight up. It must have taken 15 seconds before
it started tipping over, of course directly at her car.

Then I made my biggest mistake, I blamed her for parking all her stuff in
front of my shop.

We had turned in a total loss to insurance a year ago and a fender bender
shortly before that. So, I shopped for a used hood thinking I could just
paint it myself. I'm worried the company will jack out rates for being
accident prone.

Anyway, that ten dollar valve is costing about $1200 to replace and about
four days of the most awful work you could ever do. Plus, the wife will tell
this story for years.

Karl

Don't they always?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Karl Townsend wrote:
OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

Several years ago, I was putting a new drain valve on a low spot in my
irrigation line and I didn't have the correct gate valve. So, I sent my
better half to town to get what she could find and ended up installing a POS
Chinese one from the discount store. (This is four feet under ground and
reached by putting a vertical pipe over the handle and then a stick and
fork)

Well, just before freeze up, I try to drain the line and the handle broke
off. No big deal, I get the back hoe to dig it out. BUT, I for got the line
Tee from the main four feet at this header and I hit the main with the
backhoe and bust it all up. Now I'm in trouble. It took week to get the
parts, about $400 worth. it rained in the mean time and the hole was a slimy
mess. I turned out I had to dig the line up for thirty feet in the mud and
most of it by hand. I ended up spending four days on the job. it was so
muddy, that I couldn't use the loader to push the dirt back in the hole, the
tractor just would spin the rear tires.

The drain Valve I got, didn't look that much better, so I said, I'll put a
four foot culvert down to it. Nice and large, keep the valve handle out in
the open. I hook a chain on to the culvert and drive back to the shop. The
kid has parked his car where I should go, the wife has parked eight feet to
the other side. I'm a slime ball mess, so I try driving the tractor right
between the cars. I should have looked back sooner, that culvert caught on
the concrete lip and stood straight up. It must have taken 15 seconds before
it started tipping over, of course directly at her car.

Then I made my biggest mistake, I blamed her for parking all her stuff in
front of my shop.

We had turned in a total loss to insurance a year ago and a fender bender
shortly before that. So, I shopped for a used hood thinking I could just
paint it myself. I'm worried the company will jack out rates for being
accident prone.

Anyway, that ten dollar valve is costing about $1200 to replace and about
four days of the most awful work you could ever do. Plus, the wife will tell
this story for years.

Sounds like an exceptional run of bad luck. Hope you get a break soon!

Chris

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 08:26:35 +0000, Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

Several years ago, I was putting a new drain valve on a low spot in my
irrigation line and I didn't have the correct gate valve. So, I sent my
better half to town to get what she could find and ended up installing a POS
Chinese one from the discount store. (This is four feet under ground and
reached by putting a vertical pipe over the handle and then a stick and
fork)

Well, just before freeze up, I try to drain the line and the handle broke
off. No big deal, I get the back hoe to dig it out. BUT, I for got the line
Tee from the main four feet at this header and I hit the main with the
backhoe and bust it all up. Now I'm in trouble. It took week to get the
parts, about $400 worth. it rained in the mean time and the hole was a slimy
mess. I turned out I had to dig the line up for thirty feet in the mud and
most of it by hand. I ended up spending four days on the job. it was so
muddy, that I couldn't use the loader to push the dirt back in the hole, the
tractor just would spin the rear tires.

The drain Valve I got, didn't look that much better, so I said, I'll put a
four foot culvert down to it. Nice and large, keep the valve handle out in
the open. I hook a chain on to the culvert and drive back to the shop. The
kid has parked his car where I should go, the wife has parked eight feet to
the other side. I'm a slime ball mess, so I try driving the tractor right
between the cars. I should have looked back sooner, that culvert caught on
the concrete lip and stood straight up. It must have taken 15 seconds before
it started tipping over, of course directly at her car.

Then I made my biggest mistake, I blamed her for parking all her stuff in
front of my shop.

We had turned in a total loss to insurance a year ago and a fender bender
shortly before that. So, I shopped for a used hood thinking I could just
paint it myself. I'm worried the company will jack out rates for being
accident prone.

Anyway, that ten dollar valve is costing about $1200 to replace and about
four days of the most awful work you could ever do. Plus, the wife will tell
this story for years.

Sounds like an exceptional run of bad luck. Hope you get a break soon!

Chris


Sounds like that old hillbilly song: "If it wasn't for the bad luck,
I'd have no luck at all"

I think it originally came from an old Irish or Gaelic saying.

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 21:14:14 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 08:26:35 +0000, Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
OK, everybody, you convinced me, I'll pay up.

Let me tell you the whole story.

--snippage of the houndawg blues--

Sounds like an exceptional run of bad luck. Hope you get a break soon!

Sounds like that old hillbilly song: "If it wasn't for the bad luck,
I'd have no luck at all"

I think it originally came from an old Irish or Gaelic saying.

Nah, it was an excellent song from the blues/rock band Cream.

By booker t. jones and william bell
Lyrics:

Born under a bad sign.
I've been down since I began to crawl.
If it wasn't for bad luck,
I wouldn't have no luck at all.

Bad luck and troubles my only friend.
I've been down ever since I was ten.

Chorus

You know, wine and women is all I crave.
A big bad woman's gonna carry me to my grave.

Chorus

First verse

Born under a bad sign.
I've been down since I began to crawl.
If it wasn't for bad luck,
I wouldn't have no luck.
If it wasn't for real bad luck,
I wouldnt have no luck at all.

Born under a bad sign.
Born under a bad sign.

http://mog.com/music/Cream/The_Very_...der_a_Bad_Sign

--
Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in getting up every time we do.
-- Confucius

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just
got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know
the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If
I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl




When I have small jobs like painting a door handle, I go to the auto paint
place and get an aerosol can of the paint to the paint number on the car.
So far I have only used the single stage paint, but it is also available in
base coat / clear coat. I have had good luck with this but I have only done
door handles so take this with a grain of salt.

I get the handles prime coated so what I do is clean them with acetone, then
I lightly sand them with some wet 400 grit and rinse in clear water. When
dry I wipe any dust off with a tack rag and spray several light coats to
avoid the drips and runs.

I have a cardboard box set up to hang the part while drying so no dust
settles on the drying paint. You might be able to section off a corner of
the barn with plastic and wet it down to make a makeshift spray booth.

You might want to buy one can as a color match test to see if the new paint
will match with the old paint before you spend a ton on the project.

Another alternative is to attach the white hood and then take it to one of
those places that repaint whole cars for a couple of hundred bucks. That
way if the hue is a little off from the original color, it is off evenly
over the whole car.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just
got a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know
the key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I
know it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear
coat) If I don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl


Basically, clear-coat is not a DIY process. Some of the materials are quite
toxic and fussy about mixing and application. You will need it to be
professionally done if it is to look satisfactory. Be sure that your
insurance will not help. You could have specified a correct color hood when
you bought it and may be able to get an exchange. Otherwise, pay up and
charge it to "Education and Training".

Don Young

DA it down to factory primer level. Primer coat, then DA to 220. Ready
to paint. Wet sand the color layer 600-1000. Shoot clear.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Karl Townsend wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
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"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Nov 24, 2:01*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl

The money spent painting the hood might be more wisely used to do a
search of salvage yards that have the correct color of hood in stock.

Dennis

In article s.com,
Karl Townsend wrote:

A while back, I was dragging a culvert behind my tractor. It caught on a
concrete lip, stood straight up, then tipped over on my better half's car
hood.
She was not impressed.

OK, now I've bought a like new hood from the salvage yard, and she just got
a quote for $500 to paint it. That ain't gonna happen.

I'm pretty good at painting tractors and other equipment. Enough to know the
key is preparation. What steps should be taken to paint this hood? (I know
it has a clear coat over the white color, I need red with a clear coat) If I
don't get it right, the boss will just take it in.

Karl



After reading the entire thread, and after I stopped laughing, I said
to myself, "Make lemonade!"

Buy a nice black carbon composite hood for your wife's red car. No
painting required. Black and red, the sexiest colors alive. Buy one
with a nice big turbocharger ram scoop in the middle and cotter
tie-downs and you won't be able to keep the boys in the rice-burner
crowd off her.

-Frank

--
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/