Hi all,

I've just moved house and am in the process of getting my kitchen ready
for new units and appliances fitted (it's empty at the moment) and
about the only thing I have left to work out is how to wire in the
cooker hood! I'm struggling a bit with this one so I have for some
advice...

I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there
seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring
it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

I also gather that having it extracting to the outside is much better
than having it re-circulating? The hood I've chosen does both, but it
is being mounted on an exterior wall so I could have it extracting.
There's no hole in the wall presently though, is it a huge job to make
that? I'm not sure what diameter we're talking about! I think the wall
is made of breeze block as it's an extension.

What I need to work out is where I can place the actual socket to plug
the unit into. It'll be mounted on a tiled wall and isn't adjacent to
any cupboards, so to avoid having a visible socket on the wall near it
I was thinking that the socket could go behind the chimney section?

This is the actual hood he

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...umber=50096175

I've looked at these mounted up in Ikea and the chimney section seems
to be seperate from the actual hood section (in the shop you could
actually lift it off). I was worried that inside the chimney section
may be too hot/damp to safely have a socket on the wall but having
inspected them that part seems almost cosmetic?

If it's going to be too damp for a socket is something like this safe
(looks better sealed):

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...65551&ts=30387

That's also metal which is presumably better from a heat point of view?

Thanks,

Ian.

Ian

This doesnt answer your question I am afraid but I am also interested in
this hood but dont understand what the sentence

"To be completed with NYTTIG TUB 120 flexible pipe for fan for connection to
a valve." means.

What did you take it to mean?

--
Steve

Remove "nospam" from email address to reply to me personally

I also gather that having it extracting to the outside is much better
than having it re-circulating?

Definitely, unless you just want a big shiny one to try and impress
people.

MBQ

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 14:24:41 +0100, "Steve Rainbird"
wrote:

Ian

This doesnt answer your question I am afraid but I am also interested in
this hood but dont understand what the sentence

"To be completed with NYTTIG TUB 120 flexible pipe for fan for connection to
a valve." means.

What did you take it to mean?

Could it mean (backdraught) shutter.

A bad translation Swedish English ?

DG

Steve Rainbird wrote:
Ian

This doesnt answer your question I am afraid but I am also interested in
this hood but dont understand what the sentence

"To be completed with NYTTIG TUB 120 flexible pipe for fan for connection to
a valve." means.

What did you take it to mean?

I presumed that was the part to connect it to the duct to outside, i.e.
a part you wouldn't need if it was in re-circulation mode - I haven't
bought that bit yet though so I don't really know!

Ian.

wrote:
I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there
seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring
it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

Fine

I also gather that having it extracting to the outside is much better
than having it re-circulating? The hood I've chosen does both, but it
is being mounted on an exterior wall so I could have it extracting.

That's a no-brainer - never fit these things as re-circulating if you
can possibly help it. For one, a recirculating fan can't get rid of
steam, and secondly, you need to keep renewing the charcoal filters
inside, which absorb nasty niffs, and these are incredibly expensive
(they aren't necessary at all if you extract).

There's no hole in the wall presently though, is it a huge job to make
that? I'm not sure what diameter we're talking about! I think the wall
is made of breeze block as it's an extension.

No, pretty easy, especially in a block wall. Either hire a core drill
(expensive but quick and neat) or if it was me, I'd just chain-drill the
hole using an ordinary masonry drill - that is, mark your circle on the
wall, then drill small holes close together right around the
circumference, then you shold be able to knock out the core pretty
easily and neatly. Good idea to start by drilling one pilot hole right
through the wall from the inside, to mark the position of the centre of
the vent hole outside; then you can chain drill on the outside, which
minimises damage to the (more visible) outer wall. You'll probably have
a cavity wall in which case you have two walls to do anyway.

If it was me, I'd then pass a length of ducting through the wall eg:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31554&id=54391
Needs to be angled slightly outwards to help any rain/condensation drain
out.

Fit that flush with the outside wall and mortar in place and make good,
when it's set, add a vent like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31691&id=20389
This fits snugly into the ducting.

Chop off the ducting on the inside wall leaving an inch protruding, then
connect that to the exit of the extractor fan using flexible hosing.

What I need to work out is where I can place the actual socket to plug
the unit into. It'll be mounted on a tiled wall and isn't adjacent to
any cupboards, so to avoid having a visible socket on the wall near it
I was thinking that the socket could go behind the chimney section?

That would be fine; the space can be quite limited behind there though -
depends largely on the height between hood and ceiling. I've dine it in
the past using a flush-mounted fused connection unit (all cables buried)
which doesn't look too bad.

I've looked at these mounted up in Ikea and the chimney section seems
to be seperate from the actual hood section (in the shop you could
actually lift it off). I was worried that inside the chimney section
may be too hot/damp to safely have a socket on the wall but having
inspected them that part seems almost cosmetic?

Yes they are essentially cosmetic; they protect the ducting within I
suppose.

That's also metal which is presumably better from a heat point of view?

Not really, because you're not going to be mounting the switch anywhere
where it's going to get too hot. If there were a concern about the
switch housing being not robust enough to withstand the temperature,
then you should be worried about the insulation on the cables...

You know that there are rules about how high the extractor has to be
over the hob? Consult the hob instruction manual.

David

Derek ^ wrote:
On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 14:24:41 +0100, "Steve Rainbird"
wrote:

Ian

This doesnt answer your question I am afraid but I am also interested in
this hood but dont understand what the sentence

"To be completed with NYTTIG TUB 120 flexible pipe for fan for connection to
a valve." means.

What did you take it to mean?

Could it mean (backdraught) shutter.

A bad translation Swedish English ?

DG


Hehe, no I assure you that on the Swedish and for that matter the Danish
Ikea website it makes rather little sense either.

However I asked a friend of mine back in Copenhagen about this about 10
minutes ago, he fits quite a few kitchens from Ikea and confirms that
the "valve" in question is one of those flappy things where air will go
out when there is pressure on the inside but will shut when the wind
blows on the outside. "TUB 120" is simply a piece of 120mm flexible
aluminium duct.

It occurred to me also that the very same device is far cheaper in
Denmark, which is a bit odd, its almost half the price.

My friend Dan comments however that it is a nice cooker hood but
recommends that you either clean it very often or refrain from pointing
a spotlight at it.

//J

wrote:

Hi all,

I've just moved house and am in the process of getting my kitchen ready
for new units and appliances fitted (it's empty at the moment) and
about the only thing I have left to work out is how to wire in the
cooker hood! I'm struggling a bit with this one so I have for some
advice...

I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there
seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring
it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

What I need to work out is where I can place the actual socket to plug
the unit into. It'll be mounted on a tiled wall and isn't adjacent to
any cupboards, so to avoid having a visible socket on the wall near it
I was thinking that the socket could go behind the chimney section?

nother option is to run flex or cable from the hood down the wall
behind the tiles and to the fcu or plug. Nothing visible.


NT

On 2006-09-07 22:02:24 +0100, Jan Larsen said:


Hehe, no I assure you that on the Swedish and for that matter the
Danish Ikea website it makes rather little sense either.

However I asked a friend of mine back in Copenhagen about this about 10
minutes ago, he fits quite a few kitchens from Ikea and confirms that
the "valve" in question is one of those flappy things where air will go
out when there is pressure on the inside but will shut when the wind
blows on the outside. "TUB 120" is simply a piece of 120mm flexible
aluminium duct.

It occurred to me also that the very same device is far cheaper in
Denmark, which is a bit odd, its almost half the price.



That's because Danes are better negotiators and Swedes are used to
paying high prices as a result of normally having to buy their booze in
Systembolaget. Compared with that, anything is cheap, except, perhaps
for a Norwegian having to buy it in Vinmonopolet or a Finn in Alko.

Reminds me of the story of two Finns in a bar.

One orders a round of drinks, raises his glass and says "Kippis"

The other says "Are we going to talk or are we going to drink?"

In message , Andy Hall writes
On 2006-09-07 22:02:24 +0100, Jan Larsen said:


Hehe, no I assure you that on the Swedish and for that matter the
Danish Ikea website it makes rather little sense either.
However I asked a friend of mine back in Copenhagen about this about
10 minutes ago, he fits quite a few kitchens from Ikea and confirms
that the "valve" in question is one of those flappy things where air
will go out when there is pressure on the inside but will shut when
the wind blows on the outside. "TUB 120" is simply a piece of 120mm
flexible aluminium duct.
It occurred to me also that the very same device is far cheaper in
Denmark, which is a bit odd, its almost half the price.



That's because Danes are better negotiators and Swedes are used to
paying high prices as a result of normally having to buy their booze in
Systembolaget. Compared with that, anything is cheap, except, perhaps
for a Norwegian having to buy it in Vinmonopolet or a Finn in Alko.

Reminds me of the story of two Finns in a bar.

One orders a round of drinks, raises his glass and says "Kippis"

Is that "bottoms up" then (as in German "to tip")

The other says "Are we going to talk or are we going to drink?"

I'm holding back the belly laugh until I find out


--
geoff

Lobster wrote:
wrote:
I've just had a good look through the past posts on here and there
seems to be lots of good tips, from what I can gather I'm best wiring
it into a switched and fused spur off the ring main?

Fine

I also gather that having it extracting to the outside is much better
than having it re-circulating? The hood I've chosen does both, but it
is being mounted on an exterior wall so I could have it extracting.

That's a no-brainer - never fit these things as re-circulating if you
can possibly help it. For one, a recirculating fan can't get rid of
steam, and secondly, you need to keep renewing the charcoal filters
inside, which absorb nasty niffs, and these are incredibly expensive
(they aren't necessary at all if you extract).

There's no hole in the wall presently though, is it a huge job to make
that? I'm not sure what diameter we're talking about! I think the wall
is made of breeze block as it's an extension.

No, pretty easy, especially in a block wall. Either hire a core drill
(expensive but quick and neat) or if it was me, I'd just chain-drill the
hole using an ordinary masonry drill - that is, mark your circle on the
wall, then drill small holes close together right around the
circumference, then you shold be able to knock out the core pretty
easily and neatly. Good idea to start by drilling one pilot hole right
through the wall from the inside, to mark the position of the centre of
the vent hole outside; then you can chain drill on the outside, which
minimises damage to the (more visible) outer wall. You'll probably have
a cavity wall in which case you have two walls to do anyway.

If it was me, I'd then pass a length of ducting through the wall eg:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31554&id=54391
Needs to be angled slightly outwards to help any rain/condensation drain
out.

Fit that flush with the outside wall and mortar in place and make good,
when it's set, add a vent like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31691&id=20389
This fits snugly into the ducting.

Chop off the ducting on the inside wall leaving an inch protruding, then
connect that to the exit of the extractor fan using flexible hosing.

What I need to work out is where I can place the actual socket to plug
the unit into. It'll be mounted on a tiled wall and isn't adjacent to
any cupboards, so to avoid having a visible socket on the wall near it
I was thinking that the socket could go behind the chimney section?

That would be fine; the space can be quite limited behind there though -
depends largely on the height between hood and ceiling. I've dine it in
the past using a flush-mounted fused connection unit (all cables buried)
which doesn't look too bad.

I've looked at these mounted up in Ikea and the chimney section seems
to be seperate from the actual hood section (in the shop you could
actually lift it off). I was worried that inside the chimney section
may be too hot/damp to safely have a socket on the wall but having
inspected them that part seems almost cosmetic?

Yes they are essentially cosmetic; they protect the ducting within I
suppose.

That's also metal which is presumably better from a heat point of view?

Not really, because you're not going to be mounting the switch anywhere
where it's going to get too hot. If there were a concern about the
switch housing being not robust enough to withstand the temperature,
then you should be worried about the insulation on the cables...

You know that there are rules about how high the extractor has to be
over the hob? Consult the hob instruction manual.

David

That's a great help David, thank you!

I'll order the bits and then I think I'm all set to go

Ian.

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 22:46:17 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2006-09-07 22:02:24 +0100, Jan Larsen said:



Reminds me of the story of two Finns in a bar.

One orders a round of drinks, raises his glass and says "Kippis"


"kippis" means "how are you?" right?

the version on R4 a few days ago has them drink 1 bottle then one of
them says "so how has your life been?" then...


The other says "Are we going to talk or are we going to drink?"

Ian Atkinson wrote:
Lobster wrote:
wrote:

If it was me, I'd then pass a length of ducting through the wall eg:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31554&id=54391
Needs to be angled slightly outwards to help any rain/condensation drain
out.

Fit that flush with the outside wall and mortar in place and make good,
when it's set, add a vent like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...31691&id=20389
This fits snugly into the ducting.

Chop off the ducting on the inside wall leaving an inch protruding, then
connect that to the exit of the extractor fan using flexible hosing.

That's a great help David, thank you!

I'll order the bits and then I think I'm all set to go

Be aware that there are different diameters of ducting/hosing available
- check the diameter of the spigot of your extractor fan, and then buy
kit to match... you can get adapters etc but obviously easiest not to.

Also - check whether or not the hood has a built-in flaps to close hole
off when not in use; if not it can get pretty draughty when you don't
want it to: this can be avoided by fitting a vent on the outside wall
which incorporates flaps (not as effective as the built-in ones, but
probably better than nothing)

David