"Old Chipper" wrote in message
om...
Old Chipper had written this in response to
http://www.www.rittercnc.com/metalwo...rs-152777-.htm :


-------------------------------------
72 Mach1 wrote:

Google "electrolysis rust removal". I've used it on a number
of rusted
parts, does not harm the parent metal.



Think I'll try it.
Can you reuse the mixture or do you start new each time? Also put a few
parts in a 50-50 mix of molasses and water. Found this on another forum
hope it will work, had to give it a try sounds to strange to work, will
post the results, later.
thanks

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it all
the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp automotive
battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I sawed off a slab
for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available from welding
suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted knows
electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid when
you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it brushes
off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes I've used
muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm going to
paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress

Ted hasn't shown his presence here for quite some time, Ed, more than a year
and possibly closer to 2 years.

He is very knowlegable in many areas, and helped me by providing his Gears
program for Smithy 3in1 machines, for threading 27 tpi.

I think someone here is a close acquaintence of Ted, maybe one of the guys
from the northern plains states.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it
all the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp
automotive battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I sawed
off a slab for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available from
welding suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted
knows electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid
when you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it
brushes off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes
I've used muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm
going to paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Ted hasn't shown his presence here for quite some time, Ed, more than a
year and possibly closer to 2 years.

He is very knowlegable in many areas, and helped me by providing his Gears
program for Smithy 3in1 machines, for threading 27 tpi.

I think someone here is a close acquaintence of Ted, maybe one of the guys
from the northern plains states.

--
WB

Well, he's missed. He has some pretty sophisticated knowledge.

--
Ed Huntress


.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it
all the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp
automotive battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I
sawed off a slab for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available
from welding suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted
knows electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid
when you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it
brushes off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes
I've used muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm
going to paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress