for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with Abene_VHF-3-Gear -
If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing out
of its mounting hole.

This is very nicely made, notice all the ball bearings - all the gears ride
on double pairs of needle bearings - this is fine Swiss workmanship - this
particular mill was made in 1970

I took it apart because I wanted to clean and paint part of the casting and
to replace oil seals - the oil seals are 17mmX35mmX10mm - you can replace
them without taking the gearbox apart (I recommend not taking it apart, now
that I've done it) -


--
Bill
www.wbnoble.com

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 21:16:47 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with Abene_VHF-3-Gear -
If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing out
of its mounting hole.

This is very nicely made, notice all the ball bearings - all the gears ride
on double pairs of needle bearings - this is fine Swiss workmanship - this
particular mill was made in 1970

I took it apart because I wanted to clean and paint part of the casting and
to replace oil seals - the oil seals are 17mmX35mmX10mm - you can replace
them without taking the gearbox apart (I recommend not taking it apart, now
that I've done it) -

I seem to get the feeling that you don't recommend taking the
gearbox apart. :-)


One question. On mine the rapid traverse is iffy on engaging. Did
you pay any attention to the clutch arrangement for that? I've
considered taking mine apart to see if I could fix it. I've never had
to time and from past experience I've never had much luck making worn
out over running clutches work.

"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 21:16:47 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I
don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with
Abene_VHF-3-Gear -
If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you
must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing
out
of its mounting hole.


I seem to get the feeling that you don't recommend taking the
gearbox apart. :-)


One question. On mine the rapid traverse is iffy on engaging. Did
you pay any attention to the clutch arrangement for that? I've
considered taking mine apart to see if I could fix it. I've never had
to time and from past experience I've never had much luck making worn
out over running clutches work.

there is a shaft, probably visible in the photos, that has two gears on it -
one gear is slid up and down by the shifter, the other gear is fixed at the
"back" end - the end away from the visible part of the unit. This is the
output shaft, it drives a bevel gear that in turn drives the driveshaft that
goes to the table control gears. Each of these two gears has inside one of
those needle bearing clutches that allows it to rotate freely in one
direction and to lock up in the other direction. The sliding gear is the
"forward" gear, I believe, the fixed gear is the "reverse" gear. The
reverse idler gear is visible near the top of the gear stack in the photos,
sitting on a rather odd shaped piece of metal that in turn rests on flats
cut into the shafts that hold the gear clusters.

the "Iffy on engaging" with these types of clutches has got to mean either
dirt or extreme wear, I think - perhaps others can chime in here - there is
nothing unique to Abene about these clutches. My first thought would be to
drain all the oil out and fill with kerosene, disconnect the drive shaft, so
there is no load, and run it for half an hour forward and half an hour
backwards - then drain the kerosene and refill. the thought being to get
whatever crud might be in there to exit the gearbox.

If you do decide to pull yours apart to check the clutch, pull the back off
and press the brass gear through the hole in the back to get it off - don't
remove anything from the front.

one more piece of info for Abene owners

the oil seals on the gearbox are 17-35-10 (those dimensions in mm are ID,
OD, Width)

this seal is hard to find - I did find an oil pump seal that is 17-30-7 that
local autoparts stores carry - it's a directional seal, which is not what I
prefer, but given that most of the time you are not using rapids, it should
be OK The seal is ELRING 483.150, replaces OE 15165-70010 - I have no idea
what car(s) that fits, but .....

hope this helps someone - if you have an Abene mill, write this down
somewhere

Bill Noble wrote:
one more piece of info for Abene owners

the oil seals on the gearbox are 17-35-10 (those dimensions in mm are ID,
OD, Width)

this seal is hard to find - I did find an oil pump seal that is 17-30-7 that
local autoparts stores carry - it's a directional seal, which is not what I
prefer, but given that most of the time you are not using rapids, it should
be OK The seal is ELRING 483.150, replaces OE 15165-70010 - I have no idea
what car(s) that fits, but .....

hope this helps someone - if you have an Abene mill, write this down
somewhere



Can not just order the17-35-10 from a bearing stockist. I did a search
on one of the online bearing stockist in the UK and found them easily
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ad...3= 10&x=0&y=0

Maybe it is a location based thing as metric stuff may be more common in
the UK still.

Can not just order the17-35-10 from a bearing stockist. I did a search on
one of the online bearing stockist in the UK and found them easily
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ad...3= 10&x=0&y=0

Maybe it is a location based thing as metric stuff may be more common in
the UK still.

well, I was not able to find 10mm thick - I could have special ordered
17-35-7 but I decided to get it over with and use what I could get - 17mm is
apparently an unusual size

anyway, here is one more hint for anyone so foolish as to take this gearbox
apart

You MUST !!! put the output shaft in place before seating the shaft that
drives it - the bevel gear overlaps over the bearing recess (you don't want
to discover this fact when you have the gearbox all assembled) - so, here is
my new recommended assembly sequence

1. insert the shaft that actuates the gear shifter and get all the shims and
snap rings in place (including the bronze shifting fork) and insert and
tighten studs into front plate
2. insert the shaft that drives the output shaft through its hole in the end
plate and press the bevel gear onto the end, then pull it back as far as you
can without dislodging the gear
3. insert output shaft then put the shaft that drives it back into place and
let the gears mesh
4. place the remaining two shafts near their holes, and put the idler gear
support with the gear on it in place between the three shafts, it rests on
flats milled in two of these shafts
5. drop remaining shafts into proper holes
6. check that everything meshes and seems to work
7. put seal into groove in front plate, drop the pipe that forms the middle
of the housing in place, put seal in groove in back plate and tap the back
plate into position
8. tighten nuts (three nuts, three lockwashers) that hold the whole thing
together
9. put spacer onto shifter shaft, then put cam gear in place, then install
key and mating part onto shifter shaft
10 run shifter shaft to one end, add readout gear and readout (properly
aligned), shifter handle (and tapered pin)
11. insert driven shaft and bearings into rear housing
12 affix covers with oil seals for driven and output shaft
13. affix sheave and key to driven shaft, affix key and output connector to
output shaft
14. install sight glass, drain plug, put the whole mess into the mill,
tighten and fill with oil to proper level.

aaarrrggghhh ----- don't take this thing apart - but if you have one of
these, copy this procedure and save lots of agony


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

well, I was not able to find 10mm thick - I could have special ordered
17-35-7 but I decided to get it over with and use what I could get - 17mm is
apparently an unusual size

anyway, here is one more hint for anyone so foolish as to take this gearbox
apart

You MUST !!! put the output shaft in place before seating the shaft that
drives it - the bevel gear overlaps over the bearing recess (you don't want
to discover this fact when you have the gearbox all assembled) - so, here is
my new recommended assembly sequence

1. insert the shaft that actuates the gear shifter and get all the shims and
snap rings in place (including the bronze shifting fork) and insert and
tighten studs into front plate
2. insert the shaft that drives the output shaft through its hole in the end
plate and press the bevel gear onto the end, then pull it back as far as you
can without dislodging the gear
3. insert output shaft then put the shaft that drives it back into place and
let the gears mesh
4. place the remaining two shafts near their holes, and put the idler gear
support with the gear on it in place between the three shafts, it rests on
flats milled in two of these shafts
5. drop remaining shafts into proper holes
6. check that everything meshes and seems to work
7. put seal into groove in front plate, drop the pipe that forms the middle
of the housing in place, put seal in groove in back plate and tap the back
plate into position
8. tighten nuts (three nuts, three lockwashers) that hold the whole thing
together
9. put spacer onto shifter shaft, then put cam gear in place, then install
key and mating part onto shifter shaft
10 run shifter shaft to one end, add readout gear and readout (properly
aligned), shifter handle (and tapered pin)
11. insert driven shaft and bearings into rear housing
12 affix covers with oil seals for driven and output shaft
13. affix sheave and key to driven shaft, affix key and output connector to
output shaft
14. install sight glass, drain plug, put the whole mess into the mill,
tighten and fill with oil to proper level.

aaarrrggghhh ----- don't take this thing apart - but if you have one of
these, copy this procedure and save lots of agony

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 08:55:46 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 21:16:47 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I
don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with
Abene_VHF-3-Gear -
If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you
must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing
out
of its mounting hole.


I seem to get the feeling that you don't recommend taking the
gearbox apart. :-)


One question. On mine the rapid traverse is iffy on engaging. Did
you pay any attention to the clutch arrangement for that? I've
considered taking mine apart to see if I could fix it. I've never had
to time and from past experience I've never had much luck making worn
out over running clutches work.

there is a shaft, probably visible in the photos, that has two gears on it -
one gear is slid up and down by the shifter, the other gear is fixed at the
"back" end - the end away from the visible part of the unit. This is the
output shaft, it drives a bevel gear that in turn drives the driveshaft that
goes to the table control gears. Each of these two gears has inside one of
those needle bearing clutches that allows it to rotate freely in one
direction and to lock up in the other direction. The sliding gear is the
"forward" gear, I believe, the fixed gear is the "reverse" gear. The
reverse idler gear is visible near the top of the gear stack in the photos,
sitting on a rather odd shaped piece of metal that in turn rests on flats
cut into the shafts that hold the gear clusters.

the "Iffy on engaging" with these types of clutches has got to mean either
dirt or extreme wear, I think - perhaps others can chime in here - there is
nothing unique to Abene about these clutches. My first thought would be to
drain all the oil out and fill with kerosene, disconnect the drive shaft, so
there is no load, and run it for half an hour forward and half an hour
backwards - then drain the kerosene and refill. the thought being to get
whatever crud might be in there to exit the gearbox.

Ok. Similar to what I was figuring. I may try the flush trick when I
get a chance.

If you do decide to pull yours apart to check the clutch, pull the back off
and press the brass gear through the hole in the back to get it off - don't
remove anything from the front.

Many thanks for this and the other advise you've given in this
thread (which has been saved).
Wayne Cook

On 2008-11-15, Bill Noble wrote:
for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with Abene_VHF-3-Gear -

I *guessed* that you uploaded them to the dropbox

http://www.metalworking.com

and was right -- they are there.

If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing out
of its mounting hole.

This is very nicely made, notice all the ball bearings - all the gears ride
on double pairs of needle bearings - this is fine Swiss workmanship - this
particular mill was made in 1970

It looks beautiful. I wish that I hand one -- and someplace to
put it.

I took it apart because I wanted to clean and paint part of the casting and
to replace oil seals - the oil seals are 17mmX35mmX10mm - you can replace
them without taking the gearbox apart (I recommend not taking it apart, now
that I've done it) -

:-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"
This is very nicely made, notice all the ball bearings - all the gears
ride
on double pairs of needle bearings - this is fine Swiss workmanship -
this
particular mill was made in 1970

It looks beautiful. I wish that I hand one -- and someplace to
put it.

I took it apart because I wanted to clean and paint part of the casting
and
to replace oil seals - the oil seals are 17mmX35mmX10mm - you can replace
them without taking the gearbox apart (I recommend not taking it apart,
now
that I've done it) -

:-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

I've decided I'm going to make new sheaves to use the J series microgroove
belts - this whole exercise stated because I was tired of the flat belt
sliding off every time I tried to raise the table - now I know that it is
possible that replacing the belt alone will fix it, but if I redesign to use
modern belts, then I have a permanent solution with no more fuss and muss -
the downside is that I give up the safety feature of having the belt slide
off if there is an overload - but I figure if I don't tighten the belt too
much I can get slippage instead - the two sheaves are 88 and 51 mm (or 2 and
3.5 inches) so making these, with the exception of the key slots, is within
the capacity of my lathe - and I think I know where I can borrow the tools
to cut the slots for the keys.

comments anyone? anyone have some spare J series microgroove sheaves in the
sizes I need?


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"
This is very nicely made, notice all the ball bearings - all the gears
ride
on double pairs of needle bearings - this is fine Swiss workmanship -
this
particular mill was made in 1970

It looks beautiful. I wish that I hand one -- and someplace to
put it.

I took it apart because I wanted to clean and paint part of the casting
and
to replace oil seals - the oil seals are 17mmX35mmX10mm - you can replace
them without taking the gearbox apart (I recommend not taking it apart,
now
that I've done it) -

:-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

I've decided I'm going to make new sheaves to use the J series microgroove
belts - this whole exercise stated because I was tired of the flat belt
sliding off every time I tried to raise the table - now I know that it is
possible that replacing the belt alone will fix it, but if I redesign to use
modern belts, then I have a permanent solution with no more fuss and muss -
the downside is that I give up the safety feature of having the belt slide
off if there is an overload - but I figure if I don't tighten the belt too
much I can get slippage instead - the two sheaves are 88 and 51 mm (or 2 and
3.5 inches) so making these, with the exception of the key slots, is within
the capacity of my lathe - and I think I know where I can borrow the tools
to cut the slots for the keys.

comments anyone? anyone have some spare J series microgroove sheaves in the
sizes I need?

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...VHF-3-Gear.txt
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-1.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-3.JPG

Thanks!

--Winston

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

Just a comment on the drop box posting:
It would have been a lot nicer to put
carriage returns in the text posting. So it dosent
take about 4 times the width of a screen to read.
Beautiful pictures.
...lew...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled
gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?


going to take photos now - I didn't provide a link with original post
because the files hadn't appeared in the drop box when I made the posting.

If the gear to which you refer is the one at the "top" of the stack, that is
the driven gear - there is a worm gear that drives it, and the worm gear is
driven (via a flat belt, which is what started the whole mess) by a 2 HP
motor that is inside the base of the mill. There is a picture of the mill
itself on my web page (wbnoble.com) under hobbies/tools and a search for
Abene VHF-3 will turn up lots of photos.

I will attempt to post the photos with names that will make them come out
adjacent to the ones that are already there, and I'll accompany them with
another annoying text file lacking carriage returns. Look for them in an
hour or so


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled
gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.

Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...VHF-3-Gear.txt
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-1.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-3.JPG

Thanks!

--Winston

ok, I've uploaded more files showing the exterior of the gearbox and the
place where it goes in the mill - use the above links but the file names are
of the form Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled.txt - the files aren't in the drop
box just yet, so you'll just have to fake it.

anyone want photo of the drive sheaves? for what it's worth, the two
sheaves are 88mm and 51mm for the gearbox and motor respectively at the
largest diameter

here are the links to the exterior views of the gearbox
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled.txt has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled.txt".
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-4.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-4.JPG".
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-5.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-5.JPG".
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-1.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-1.JPG".
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-2.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-2.JPG".
The file Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-3.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled-3.JPG".

- this is fine Swiss workmanship - this
particular mill was made in 1970

Billwww.wbnoble.com

Maybe the bearings are Swiss- But arent Abene mills made in Sweden?

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.
Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

That's _Honorary Aunt_ to you, buster.

The worm wheel? I haven't the foggiest.

Hey Bill, can you remind us what the worm wheel does for a living?

Thank you kindly.

--HA Winnie

Bill Noble wrote:
"Winston" wrote in message
...
Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled
gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.
Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...VHF-3-Gear.txt
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-1.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-3.JPG

Thanks!

--Winston

ok, I've uploaded more files showing the exterior of the gearbox and the
place where it goes in the mill - use the above links but the file names are
of the form Abene_VHF-3-Gear-assembled.txt - the files aren't in the drop
box just yet, so you'll just have to fake it.

anyone want photo of the drive sheaves? for what it's worth, the two
sheaves are 88mm and 51mm for the gearbox and motor respectively at the
largest diameter

I agree with Lew, Bill.

Great looking pictures!

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...-assembled.txt
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ssembled-1.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ssembled-2.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ssembled-3.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ssembled-4.JPG
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ssembled-5.JPG

--HA Winnie

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 11:14:37 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I won't
bother unless someone asks.
Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

That's _Honorary Aunt_ to you, buster.

The worm wheel? I haven't the foggiest.

Hey Bill, can you remind us what the worm wheel does for a living?

Thank you kindly.

--HA Winnie

Thanks, HAW.


--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

"Ries" wrote in message
...

- this is fine Swiss workmanship - this
particular mill was made in 1970

Billwww.wbnoble.com

Maybe the bearings are Swiss- But arent Abene mills made in Sweden?

errrr - that was just my mistake - yes, they are made in sweden - I must
have been thinking of cheese, not the mill when I wrote that, sorry. Oh,
and each of those gears actually has three needle bearings inside - this
thing could probably run for a few centuries without showing wear on these
internal parts - it's really amazing.

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled
gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I
won't
bother unless someone asks.
Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

That's _Honorary Aunt_ to you, buster.

The worm wheel? I haven't the foggiest.

Hey Bill, can you remind us what the worm wheel does for a living?

Thank you kindly.

--HA Winnie

There are two brass pieces in the gear box - at the top is a brass gear that
is driven by a worm gear (that goes into the rear housing) - the worm is
driven by a 2 hp motor, in my case via a flat belt.

The other brass (bronze?) piece is the sifter fork, that moves two gears up
and down based on the rotating of the gear sleector lever. Thsi is a 12
speed gearbox, as I recall.

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 23:22:29 -0800, the infamous "Bill Noble"
scrawled the following:


"Winston" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 23:29:41 -0800, the infamous Winston
scrawled the following:

Bill Noble wrote:
(...)
If anyone would like, I can take a couple of photos of the assembled
gearbox
ready to go back into the mill and upload them to the drop box - I
won't
bother unless someone asks.
Please do.

For the lazy old guys, please provide a link, ala:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

That's _Honorary Aunt_ to you, buster.

The worm wheel? I haven't the foggiest.

Hey Bill, can you remind us what the worm wheel does for a living?

Thank you kindly.

--HA Winnie

There are two brass pieces in the gear box - at the top is a brass gear that
is driven by a worm gear (that goes into the rear housing) - the worm is
driven by a 2 hp motor, in my case via a flat belt.

Ah, that explains its shape.


The other brass (bronze?) piece is the sifter fork, that moves two gears up
and down based on the rotating of the gear sleector lever. Thsi is a 12
speed gearbox, as I recall.

Yes, I saw that one, too, and thought it might be a thrust bearing.

Thankee, sirs.

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

well, now you see what the lag for Teranet postings are - these duplicates
were posted through teranet, then I reposted using motzarella -

one more piece of info for those owinging these mills

the diameter of the input shaft to the gearbox is 15mm, output shaft from
the gearbox is 16mm, and I measured the key on the input shaft as 5.1 mm
(I'll bet it's really 5 mm)


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 08:34:31 -0800, the infamous "Bill Noble"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...F-3-Gear-2.JPG

What's with the brass/bronze, non-hypoid, non-helical, curve-toothed
gear thingy, Unca (Aunt?) Winnie?

going to take photos now - I didn't provide a link with original post
because the files hadn't appeared in the drop box when I made the posting.

If the gear to which you refer is the one at the "top" of the stack, that is
the driven gear - there is a worm gear that drives it, and the worm gear is
driven (via a flat belt, which is what started the whole mess) by a 2 HP
motor that is inside the base of the mill. There is a picture of the mill
itself on my web page (wbnoble.com) under hobbies/tools and a search for
Abene VHF-3 will turn up lots of photos.

I will attempt to post the photos with names that will make them come out
adjacent to the ones that are already there, and I'll accompany them with
another annoying text file lacking carriage returns. Look for them in an
hour or so

OK, thanks, Bill.

--
Latin: It's not just for geniuses any more.