"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 21:16:47 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

for those interested in the Abene mills, I've uploaded a photo of the
insides of the gearbox that drives the table to the drop box, though I
don't
see the files there just yet - file names all start with
Abene_VHF-3-Gear -
If you have one of these, it's best not to take it apart - but if you
must,
remove the input and output shafts, then unscrew the four nuts holding the
assembly together, then pull the back off - you will need to use a pry bar
to press the brass gear down as you do this - that will push its bearing
out
of its mounting hole.


I seem to get the feeling that you don't recommend taking the
gearbox apart. :-)


One question. On mine the rapid traverse is iffy on engaging. Did
you pay any attention to the clutch arrangement for that? I've
considered taking mine apart to see if I could fix it. I've never had
to time and from past experience I've never had much luck making worn
out over running clutches work.

there is a shaft, probably visible in the photos, that has two gears on it -
one gear is slid up and down by the shifter, the other gear is fixed at the
"back" end - the end away from the visible part of the unit. This is the
output shaft, it drives a bevel gear that in turn drives the driveshaft that
goes to the table control gears. Each of these two gears has inside one of
those needle bearing clutches that allows it to rotate freely in one
direction and to lock up in the other direction. The sliding gear is the
"forward" gear, I believe, the fixed gear is the "reverse" gear. The
reverse idler gear is visible near the top of the gear stack in the photos,
sitting on a rather odd shaped piece of metal that in turn rests on flats
cut into the shafts that hold the gear clusters.

the "Iffy on engaging" with these types of clutches has got to mean either
dirt or extreme wear, I think - perhaps others can chime in here - there is
nothing unique to Abene about these clutches. My first thought would be to
drain all the oil out and fill with kerosene, disconnect the drive shaft, so
there is no load, and run it for half an hour forward and half an hour
backwards - then drain the kerosene and refill. the thought being to get
whatever crud might be in there to exit the gearbox.

If you do decide to pull yours apart to check the clutch, pull the back off
and press the brass gear through the hole in the back to get it off - don't
remove anything from the front.