Took my wife's kitchen aid gear head apart. The sacrificial worm gear fell
on its sword. Three teeth totally worn away. Easy fix as soon as new gear
arrives.

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it does
not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are not
noticeable at the highest speed.

This is a brush (universal? ) type motor and the brushes are still approx.
one inch long. The mixer is labeled "solid state speed control" although
solid state components were not obvious to me. The speed lever is
mechanically connected to some sort of contact plate at the end of the
rotor. Moving the lever to higher speeds changes the angle of this plate
and for some reason the motor speeds up. There is a spring loaded contact
on this plate and if I push ever so gently on it the motor runs a lot
smoother and faster.

What is this mechanism (called a "control plate" in the parts diagram) and
could it be my problem?

All advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Took my wife's kitchen aid gear head apart. The sacrificial worm gear
fell on its sword. Three teeth totally worn away. Easy fix as soon as
new gear arrives.

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it
does not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are
not noticeable at the highest speed.

This is a brush (universal? ) type motor and the brushes are still
approx. one inch long. The mixer is labeled "solid state speed control"
although solid state components were not obvious to me. The speed lever
is mechanically connected to some sort of contact plate at the end of
the rotor. Moving the lever to higher speeds changes the angle of this
plate and for some reason the motor speeds up. There is a spring loaded
contact on this plate and if I push ever so gently on it the motor runs
a lot smoother and faster.

What is this mechanism (called a "control plate" in the parts diagram)
and could it be my problem?

All advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

That would be the governor plate. Most of the kitchen aid mixers run
them. When the motor is under load it will run smooth. Just the way they
are designed.
Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot. That and the
housing color is what separates the home models from the smaller
commercial units.

--
Steve W.


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On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:39:35 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Took my wife's kitchen aid gear head apart. The sacrificial worm gear fell
on its sword. Three teeth totally worn away. Easy fix as soon as new gear
arrives.

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it does
not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are not
noticeable at the highest speed.

This is a brush (universal? ) type motor and the brushes are still approx.
one inch long. The mixer is labeled "solid state speed control" although
solid state components were not obvious to me. The speed lever is
mechanically connected to some sort of contact plate at the end of the
rotor. Moving the lever to higher speeds changes the angle of this plate
and for some reason the motor speeds up. There is a spring loaded contact
on this plate and if I push ever so gently on it the motor runs a lot
smoother and faster.

What is this mechanism (called a "control plate" in the parts diagram) and
could it be my problem?

All advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary
I have noticed the same effect on my 25 year old Dremel.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.

Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook,
stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one
since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since--
but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have
a better planetary section as well?
--Glenn Lyford

"Steve W." wrote:

Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.

That and the
housing color is what separates the home models from the smaller
commercial units.

Well, and the price. All the Kitchenaid branded units are really
consumer models, the only real commercial unit that size is the Hobart
branded N-50 at $1,600.

wrote:
Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.

Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook,
stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one
since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since--
but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have
a better planetary section as well?
--Glenn Lyford

She must have made a lot of dough. I've only seen a couple with the
planetary stripped and those were for the same reason. The commercial
units use an all steel planetary and gears. Look at the KM25GOX
http://chefstoys.net/product_info.php?products_id=234

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


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"Steve W." wrote:

wrote:
Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.

Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook,
stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one
since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since--
but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have
a better planetary section as well?
--Glenn Lyford

She must have made a lot of dough. I've only seen a couple with the
planetary stripped and those were for the same reason. The commercial
units use an all steel planetary and gears. Look at the KM25GOX
http://chefstoys.net/product_info.php?products_id=234


You won't be able to break the Hobart N-50 version, but it will break
the bank at $1,600 or so. It's the same physical size as the other 5qt
bowl lift models, but it's 15# heavier and has an induction motor and a
real 3 speed gear transmission. I was lucky enough to get a used N-50 at
a much better price.

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:39:35 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Took my wife's kitchen aid gear head apart. The sacrificial worm gear
fell
on its sword. Three teeth totally worn away. Easy fix as soon as new
gear
arrives.

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it
does
not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are
not
noticeable at the highest speed.

This is a brush (universal? ) type motor and the brushes are still approx.
one inch long. The mixer is labeled "solid state speed control" although
solid state components were not obvious to me. The speed lever is
mechanically connected to some sort of contact plate at the end of the
rotor. Moving the lever to higher speeds changes the angle of this plate
and for some reason the motor speeds up. There is a spring loaded contact
on this plate and if I push ever so gently on it the motor runs a lot
smoother and faster.

What is this mechanism (called a "control plate" in the parts diagram) and
could it be my problem?

All advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary
I have noticed the same effect on my 25 year old Dremel.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I got one of the $9.95 Chinese "Dremel" knock-offs that does the up-down
thing, until it gets past a certain rpm.. Is that the same ? Annoying as
all get-out.

Flash

Pete C. wrote:
"Steve W." wrote:
wrote:
Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.
Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook,
stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one
since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since--
but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have
a better planetary section as well?
--Glenn Lyford
She must have made a lot of dough. I've only seen a couple with the
planetary stripped and those were for the same reason. The commercial
units use an all steel planetary and gears. Look at the KM25GOX
http://chefstoys.net/product_info.php?products_id=234


You won't be able to break the Hobart N-50 version, but it will break
the bank at $1,600 or so. It's the same physical size as the other 5qt
bowl lift models, but it's 15# heavier and has an induction motor and a
real 3 speed gear transmission. I was lucky enough to get a used N-50 at
a much better price.

If you can find one of the older Kitchen Aid models produced in the
70-82 era you're actually getting a Hobart. The KA design was based on
the units that Hobart made for KA.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


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On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 06:03:51 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are
interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit
noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot.

Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook,
stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one
since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since--
but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have
a better planetary section as well?
--Glenn Lyford
My Kitchen Aid mixer is a 1934 or 1936 vintage unit. It has three
speeds like the pro ones do today. I can't even begin to count how
many loaves of bread this mixer has produced, by myself and my mom. If
the pro ones are built the way the old ones are then I imagine they
will last.
ERS

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:39:35 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it
does not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are
not noticeable at the highest speed.


I don't know what motor you have but I had a brush commutator motor fail
in this way: the rotor wiring was attached to commutator tabs by crimping,
and the crimps were too hard, so many wires broke off. This didn't prevent
the motor from turning, because 1) only some wires were broken and the
inertia pushed the rotor past those dead positions, and 2) each tab was
connected to two poles: one ahead of the tab and one behind. The lower the
speed/current, the harder it was for the rotor to turn, however.

Since I liked the tool and there was no spare available, I picked the area
clean of the potting compound and soldered the wires to the commutator tab.
I am afraid it wasn't a cost-effective activity: if I paid myself $30/hr
I could have bought a new tool, but it was kind-of fun.


--
Przemek Klosowski, Ph.D. przemek.klosowski at gmail

"przemek klosowski" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:39:35 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

HOWEVER, while running the motor without the gearbox I noticed that it
does not run smoothly. Best I can describe is that it is 'hit and miss'
especially at the low speed. It kind of 'bucks' and 'jerks' while you
cradle it in your hands. The misses get fewer as I speed it up and are
not noticeable at the highest speed.



older kitchenaid mixers (and sunbeam too) used a type of ball govenor that
would interrupt motor power to regulate speed - if this gets sticky and
isn't sufficiently responsive, it can cause the effect you describe


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