On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 21:03:43 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:

The application is to make a turning handle for a vise, of a mild
steel rod 9/16 in diameter, and two hard bearing balls 1" in
diameter. Obviously, this is not a critical weld and strength
requirements are minimal. The most strain on it would be when it falls
vertically through the vise screw and is stopped by the screw, the
worst outcome is that it will hurt my foot.

So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

On 2008-10-29, Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 21:03:43 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:

The application is to make a turning handle for a vise, of a mild
steel rod 9/16 in diameter, and two hard bearing balls 1" in
diameter. Obviously, this is not a critical weld and strength
requirements are minimal. The most strain on it would be when it falls
vertically through the vise screw and is stopped by the screw, the
worst outcome is that it will hurt my foot.

So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
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posting on Usenet.
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On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:


So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.


Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

Gunner

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 02:56:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:


So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.


Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

Gunner

all work is done with what is on hand when you think about it. :-)

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 02:56:06 -0700, the infamous Gunner
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:


So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.


Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

That would be "most everything" around these parts.

--
Change is the process by which the future invades our lives.
-- Alvin Toffler

Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

That's how i get things done. Very small shop and very far from a metal
supplier. Boss says "make a few of these", so I draw it up. Then, i
re-design it a few times to reflect materials available and tooling.
Sometimes it takes longer to get ready to make it than actual machining
time.
If I absolutely have to have metal ordered it could be 2 weeks to 2 months
before i see it.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

Hey People,

Concerning this "Attaching a Bearing to Mild Steel" thread.... does
anyone have any good suggestions for tools that can be made or tools
that can be bought so that a person could HOLD these ODD types of
metal together WHILE using both hands to BRAZE with ? I seem to be
having a difficult time "CREATING" or "FINDING" decent Clamps or
'third hands' that can hold "AWKWARD" objects firmly in place. Any
suggestions on how to HOLD items firmly together such as the Bearing
and Rods or SIMILAR 'weird shaped' steel objects would be greatly
appreciated !

Cheers,

/FC....

On 2008-10-29, Roger Shoaf wrote:

"Jman" wrote in message
...
Hey People,

Concerning this "Attaching a Bearing to Mild Steel" thread.... does
anyone have any good suggestions for tools that can be made or tools
that can be bought so that a person could HOLD these ODD types of
metal together WHILE using both hands to BRAZE with ? I seem to be
having a difficult time "CREATING" or "FINDING" decent Clamps or
'third hands' that can hold "AWKWARD" objects firmly in place. Any
suggestions on how to HOLD items firmly together such as the Bearing
and Rods or SIMILAR 'weird shaped' steel objects would be greatly
appreciated !


OK let's take Iggy's example of 9/16 rod and a 1' ball. If you have a chunk
of 7/32 material this will raise the level of the rod so the center is in
line with the ball.

If you were to dimple the end of the rod, it would set snugly in the ball.
You can clamp the rod down to 7/32 plate sitting on the top of the welding
table, and then use another block 1/2 inch to restrain the ball against
the end of the rod.

If you had a bunch of them to do you could make a dedicated fixture, but for
onesy twosys this method works just fine.


I used a magnet to restrain the ball, and miscellaneous junk to raise
the rod to the proper level.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Jman" wrote in message
...
Hey People,

Concerning this "Attaching a Bearing to Mild Steel" thread.... does
anyone have any good suggestions for tools that can be made or tools
that can be bought so that a person could HOLD these ODD types of
metal together WHILE using both hands to BRAZE with ? I seem to be
having a difficult time "CREATING" or "FINDING" decent Clamps or
'third hands' that can hold "AWKWARD" objects firmly in place. Any
suggestions on how to HOLD items firmly together such as the Bearing
and Rods or SIMILAR 'weird shaped' steel objects would be greatly
appreciated !


OK let's take Iggy's example of 9/16 rod and a 1' ball. If you have a chunk
of 7/32 material this will raise the level of the rod so the center is in
line with the ball.

If you were to dimple the end of the rod, it would set snugly in the ball.
You can clamp the rod down to 7/32 plate sitting on the top of the welding
table, and then use another block 1/2 inch to restrain the ball against
the end of the rod.

If you had a bunch of them to do you could make a dedicated fixture, but for
onesy twosys this method works just fine.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Stealth Pilot wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 02:56:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote:


On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:


So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.


Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

Gunner


all work is done with what is on hand when you think about it. :-)


Reminds me of the guy who opened a bordello and had to run it by hand
until he found some girls to work there.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:05:54 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Stealth Pilot wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 02:56:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote:


On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0500, Ignoramus20172
wrote:


So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?

If the rod end is planar, I'd TIG it. Easy weld. If the rod end can
be made concave on the lathe, cone would do, then I'd silver-braze it.
The silver-brazed joint would be about invisible and have more than
ample strength.

Thank you Don.

I welded it with 410 stainless filler that I had, the choice of filler
was made "because I had it". I posted a link to pictures separately.


Isnt it amazing how much work gets done, even after the plans have
been changed to reflect "whats on hand"?

Gunner


all work is done with what is on hand when you think about it. :-)


Reminds me of the guy who opened a bordello and had to run it by hand
until he found some girls to work there.

Jeff
Even before that, he took it into his head to make money.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 08:58:07 -0700 (PDT), Jman
wrote:

Hey People,

Concerning this "Attaching a Bearing to Mild Steel" thread.... does
anyone have any good suggestions for tools that can be made or tools
that can be bought so that a person could HOLD these ODD types of
metal together WHILE using both hands to BRAZE with ? I seem to be
having a difficult time "CREATING" or "FINDING" decent Clamps or
'third hands' that can hold "AWKWARD" objects firmly in place. Any
suggestions on how to HOLD items firmly together such as the Bearing
and Rods or SIMILAR 'weird shaped' steel objects would be greatly
appreciated !

Cheers,

/FC....

I use drillpress vises, visegrips and sometimes magnets.

On 2008-10-30, Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 08:58:07 -0700 (PDT), Jman
wrote:

Hey People,

Concerning this "Attaching a Bearing to Mild Steel" thread.... does
anyone have any good suggestions for tools that can be made or tools
that can be bought so that a person could HOLD these ODD types of
metal together WHILE using both hands to BRAZE with ? I seem to be
having a difficult time "CREATING" or "FINDING" decent Clamps or
'third hands' that can hold "AWKWARD" objects firmly in place. Any
suggestions on how to HOLD items firmly together such as the Bearing
and Rods or SIMILAR 'weird shaped' steel objects would be greatly
appreciated !


I use drillpress vises, visegrips and sometimes magnets.

I used a magnet and the welding clamp to set that stuff on the table
aligned. Then I tack welded them (required no physical contact and no
movement) and then I could do whatever I wanted with them.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Great Suggestions on how to keep things in place while welding them...

I used a 45 degree magnet and similar stuff to hold a number of pieces
together but I did notice that the magnet will certainly melt with any
substantial heat from either the torch or the MIG. I'm going to try a
few things and see if I can't come up with some kind of 'Third Hand
System" to assist with that...

One thing that drives me nuts is that I always seem to have a problem
getting metal pieces at the proper angles ('straight up and down or
across').... An example of this would be tacking and subsequently
welding 4 - 36" angle iron pieces to plate steel to be used as legs
on a table. I can never seem to get the SOB's perfectly (or near
perfectly..) straight ! Is there a trick to welding legs onto plate
or other angle while keeping them really straight ?

Cheers,

/Jman...

On Oct 30, 5:01*am, Jman wrote:
...
Is there a trick to welding legs onto plate
or other angle while keeping them really straight ?
/Jman...

I tack weld the pieces lightly, then bend them into position and hold
them there with diagonal braces clamped to the other tack-welded
parts.

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 02:01:42 -0700 (PDT), Jman
wrote:

Great Suggestions on how to keep things in place while welding them...

I used a 45 degree magnet and similar stuff to hold a number of pieces
together but I did notice that the magnet will certainly melt with any
substantial heat from either the torch or the MIG. I'm going to try a
few things and see if I can't come up with some kind of 'Third Hand
System" to assist with that...

One thing that drives me nuts is that I always seem to have a problem
getting metal pieces at the proper angles ('straight up and down or
across').... An example of this would be tacking and subsequently
welding 4 - 36" angle iron pieces to plate steel to be used as legs
on a table. I can never seem to get the SOB's perfectly (or near
perfectly..) straight ! Is there a trick to welding legs onto plate
or other angle while keeping them really straight ?

Cheers,

/Jman...

Jig things so the legs are square in two dimensions.
Tack weld.
Correct out-of-square condition with taps and bumps.
Finish weld.
Correct out-of-square condition with large hammer and/or hydraulics.