Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Moving a bridgeport

Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a
mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british
consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws
into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the
manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings.
But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport,
Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves
me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel
van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very
stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy
for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross
weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the
capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial
duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all
around.

I recently bought the trailer and we re-wired it. This will be our
first major trip with it. Since it is an older trailer (1989?) this
afternoon I took it to Gary's, my tractor mechanic's, house for him to
inspect, service, and/or repair, as needed. Today Gary rebuilt the
tilt cylinders in my Case forklift which were hemorrhaging hydraulic
fluid. In short order he had the kits in, a hydraulic oil change, and
the forklift working like a champ. It is a Case 584CK. It will lift
4,000 pounds 22 feet into the air. This means I could drop the mill
through the roof if I chose to do so... ah, the powah!!!

By Monday afternoon, Gary will make a pronouncement as to whether the
trailer is seaworthy. If so, I will depart Monday night or Tuesday to
pick up the mill.

If Gary finds any serious problems that can't be fixed within 24 hours
I will go to "Plan B". This involves renting a Ryder truck.

Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the
equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch
trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I
will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill
down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even
use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure
that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain
it.

If I take a Ryder truck however, I'm less certain as to how to secure
the machine. Those trucks have aluminum boxes with steel stanchions
every 4 feet or so. Along the sides, about 36" from the floor, are
some 1x4 smooth wooden rails. These do not seem very sturdy to me.
Also, I probably will catch grief from drilling holes in the floor of
the truck. Also, even though the trucks have tommy lifts, I will
still have to roll the machine some 20 feet forward into the cavernous
box of the truck.

Is it a viable plan to set the thing down on a pallet jack? I'm not
sure the foot print of the mill is even big enough to catch the legs
of the jack.

Once I get there, the seller will load me. But then they will wash
their hands and close the door.

I have moved things this heavy. But not this "concentrated" and not
with this high of a center of gravity.

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V
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Default Moving a bridgeport

The footprint of a Bridgeport is very small compared to the top heavy
nature of the beast. I'd lift it a few inches, get a purpose built skid
underneath, and bolt the mill to the skid. Think 4x4's for the skid
runners and 2x12's as cross pieces. If you build it right you can bolt
it down to a trailer, slide it into a truck, or pick it up with a
(suitable) forklift.

Lots of previous discussions on the subject on this NG. Google is your
friend.

Vernon wrote:
Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a
mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british
consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws
into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the
manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings.
But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport,
Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves
me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel
van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very
stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy
for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross
weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the
capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial
duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all
around.

I recently bought the trailer and we re-wired it. This will be our
first major trip with it. Since it is an older trailer (1989?) this
afternoon I took it to Gary's, my tractor mechanic's, house for him to
inspect, service, and/or repair, as needed. Today Gary rebuilt the
tilt cylinders in my Case forklift which were hemorrhaging hydraulic
fluid. In short order he had the kits in, a hydraulic oil change, and
the forklift working like a champ. It is a Case 584CK. It will lift
4,000 pounds 22 feet into the air. This means I could drop the mill
through the roof if I chose to do so... ah, the powah!!!

By Monday afternoon, Gary will make a pronouncement as to whether the
trailer is seaworthy. If so, I will depart Monday night or Tuesday to
pick up the mill.

If Gary finds any serious problems that can't be fixed within 24 hours
I will go to "Plan B". This involves renting a Ryder truck.

Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the
equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch
trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I
will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill
down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even
use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure
that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain
it.

If I take a Ryder truck however, I'm less certain as to how to secure
the machine. Those trucks have aluminum boxes with steel stanchions
every 4 feet or so. Along the sides, about 36" from the floor, are
some 1x4 smooth wooden rails. These do not seem very sturdy to me.
Also, I probably will catch grief from drilling holes in the floor of
the truck. Also, even though the trucks have tommy lifts, I will
still have to roll the machine some 20 feet forward into the cavernous
box of the truck.

Is it a viable plan to set the thing down on a pallet jack? I'm not
sure the foot print of the mill is even big enough to catch the legs
of the jack.

Once I get there, the seller will load me. But then they will wash
their hands and close the door.

I have moved things this heavy. But not this "concentrated" and not
with this high of a center of gravity.

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V

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Default Moving a bridgeport


"Vernon" wrote in message
...


Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the
equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch
trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I
will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill
down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even
use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure
that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain
it.

I wouldn't depend on the carriage bolts to do much more than keep the bottom
from moving fore or aft. Strap and chain it using four D-hooks on the
trailer bed as anchor points so that the top of the mill can't go forward,
backward or sideways.


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Default Moving a bridgeport

Vernon writes:

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home.


http://www.truetex.com/movebpt.htm
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Default Moving a bridgeport

On 2008-10-26, RoyJ wrote:
The footprint of a Bridgeport is very small compared to the top heavy
nature of the beast. I'd lift it a few inches, get a purpose built skid
underneath, and bolt the mill to the skid. Think 4x4's for the skid
runners and 2x12's as cross pieces. If you build it right you can bolt
it down to a trailer, slide it into a truck, or pick it up with a
(suitable) forklift.


I moved one mill in a trailer, for about 25 miles, without bolting it
down, however, I tied it down with 2 inch ratcheting tiedowns so that it
was incapable of any movement. And I drove very slowly. I may have
used four 2" tiedowns. All very tight and re-checked every few miles.

If I was to move it a longer distance, I would do as RoyJ suggests.

i

Lots of previous discussions on the subject on this NG. Google is your
friend.

Vernon wrote:
Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a
mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british
consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws
into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the
manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings.
But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport,
Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves
me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel
van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very
stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy
for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross
weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the
capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial
duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all
around.

I recently bought the trailer and we re-wired it. This will be our
first major trip with it. Since it is an older trailer (1989?) this
afternoon I took it to Gary's, my tractor mechanic's, house for him to
inspect, service, and/or repair, as needed. Today Gary rebuilt the
tilt cylinders in my Case forklift which were hemorrhaging hydraulic
fluid. In short order he had the kits in, a hydraulic oil change, and
the forklift working like a champ. It is a Case 584CK. It will lift
4,000 pounds 22 feet into the air. This means I could drop the mill
through the roof if I chose to do so... ah, the powah!!!

By Monday afternoon, Gary will make a pronouncement as to whether the
trailer is seaworthy. If so, I will depart Monday night or Tuesday to
pick up the mill.

If Gary finds any serious problems that can't be fixed within 24 hours
I will go to "Plan B". This involves renting a Ryder truck.

Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the
equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch
trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I
will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill
down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even
use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure
that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain
it.

If I take a Ryder truck however, I'm less certain as to how to secure
the machine. Those trucks have aluminum boxes with steel stanchions
every 4 feet or so. Along the sides, about 36" from the floor, are
some 1x4 smooth wooden rails. These do not seem very sturdy to me.
Also, I probably will catch grief from drilling holes in the floor of
the truck. Also, even though the trucks have tommy lifts, I will
still have to roll the machine some 20 feet forward into the cavernous
box of the truck.

Is it a viable plan to set the thing down on a pallet jack? I'm not
sure the foot print of the mill is even big enough to catch the legs
of the jack.

Once I get there, the seller will load me. But then they will wash
their hands and close the door.

I have moved things this heavy. But not this "concentrated" and not
with this high of a center of gravity.

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V


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Default Moving a bridgeport

With plan A be sure to check the weight limit of the van license! You could get a pretty
high-dollar ticket for being overweight. I believe the towing vehicle license includes
the GROSS weight of both the van and any trailer behind it.

You may want to be sure any moving parts are locked into place so they don't move during
shipment.

Anti-sway devices?

Be sure the driver is experienced at pulling a loaded trailer.

As far as the Ryder truck is concerned, should the load begin a sudden move the sides
would be little protection. Tie the thing so many ways that it's difficult to ever BEGIN
moving - then drive very very carefully when approaching intersections and curves.

Perhaps they'll have a Lull or similar "cherry picker" that can set the load forward where
you want it. You can probably find something to tie it to to slide it toward the door for
the unload. However, you may want to put plywood under it prevent damage to the truck
floor.

You may want to FORGET THE RYDER and rent a trailer if yours is not available. It's hard
to beat being able to sit the load exactly where you want it and lift it right back up
without having to push, pull, drag and scratch the floor!

I know a fellow who brought a large mill to his shop and it weighed about 6000# or better.
It was on the right rear corner of a lowboy and though he had two 5000# forklifts
neither could lift the load. He approached from the rear and began a lift while I got
under his forks from the side. We got it up so someone else could pull the lowboy out
from under it. The fun began as we tried to sync our decent rate to the ground. There
was no "crash and burn" but it got interesting momentarily.

He found a large slab of metal perhaps 1.5" thick or better and burned a hole in one end.
We stuck a chain through that hole and I lightened up on one end and pulled while he
pushed from the rear. We dragged it across the lot to the door and then put several short
pieces of round stock under it to roll it into position -- no conduit or pipe -- something
solid.

Al


=========


Vernon wrote:
Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a
mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british
consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws
into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the
manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings.
But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport,
Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves
me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel
van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very
stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy
for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross
weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the
capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial
duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all
around.

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Default Moving a bridgeport

On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.


whatever you do dont aft load the trailer or you will meet my
misfortune. wild uncontrollable swings above about 30 mph.

Stealth Pilot

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Default Moving a bridgeport

On Oct 26, 4:04*am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Gentlemen,


Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. *Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.


whatever you do dont aft load the trailer or you will meet my
misfortune. wild uncontrollable swings above about 30 mph.

Stealth Pilot


I got my pintle hitch trailer back from my mechanic in fine condition
in terms of the lights and brakes. I am going to borrow all of the
tires from my dually dodge and put them under the trailer. These are
nearly new Michelin commercial truck / trailer tires that are about as
good as can be had.

Meanwhile, I am contemplating Roy's suggested purpose built skid idea
in the context of a scale drawing of a BP base I downloaded from
Iggy's site (Thanks Iggy!)

I am pondering whether to make the skid from wood, steel, or both.
Since the dimensions of the mill's base are 36 1/4" (side) x
24" (front and back) I guess I'll build it 36" square. That should
stabilize the footprint from side to side. On the heels of figuring
this out I guess I also need to give some thought to the welder!


On behalf of myself and the traveling public I thank you all! V
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Default Moving a bridgeport

I'd be looking at 4' long 2x12's and 6' long 4x4's

Vernon wrote:
On Oct 26, 4:04 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Gentlemen,
Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

whatever you do dont aft load the trailer or you will meet my
misfortune. wild uncontrollable swings above about 30 mph.

Stealth Pilot


I got my pintle hitch trailer back from my mechanic in fine condition
in terms of the lights and brakes. I am going to borrow all of the
tires from my dually dodge and put them under the trailer. These are
nearly new Michelin commercial truck / trailer tires that are about as
good as can be had.

Meanwhile, I am contemplating Roy's suggested purpose built skid idea
in the context of a scale drawing of a BP base I downloaded from
Iggy's site (Thanks Iggy!)

I am pondering whether to make the skid from wood, steel, or both.
Since the dimensions of the mill's base are 36 1/4" (side) x
24" (front and back) I guess I'll build it 36" square. That should
stabilize the footprint from side to side. On the heels of figuring
this out I guess I also need to give some thought to the welder!


On behalf of myself and the traveling public I thank you all! V

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On 2008-10-28, Vernon wrote:

[ ... ]

Meanwhile, I am contemplating Roy's suggested purpose built skid idea
in the context of a scale drawing of a BP base I downloaded from
Iggy's site (Thanks Iggy!)

I am pondering whether to make the skid from wood, steel, or both.
Since the dimensions of the mill's base are 36 1/4" (side) x
24" (front and back) I guess I'll build it 36" square. That should
stabilize the footprint from side to side. On the heels of figuring
this out I guess I also need to give some thought to the welder!


Personally -- I would make the skid wider than the widest part
of the mill -- the table width. I would consider 48" wide to be a
minimum, as that is the direction it is going to be trying to tip -- one
side or the other.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
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(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-10-28, Vernon wrote:

[ ... ]

Meanwhile, I am contemplating Roy's suggested purpose built skid idea
in the context of a scale drawing of a BP base I downloaded from
Iggy's site (Thanks Iggy!)

I am pondering whether to make the skid from wood, steel, or both.
Since the dimensions of the mill's base are 36 1/4" (side) x
24" (front and back) I guess I'll build it 36" square. That should
stabilize the footprint from side to side. On the heels of figuring
this out I guess I also need to give some thought to the welder!


Personally -- I would make the skid wider than the widest part
of the mill -- the table width. I would consider 48" wide to be a
minimum, as that is the direction it is going to be trying to tip -- one
side or the other.

Good Luck,
DoN.


I'd second that. Make it somewhat wider than the widest part of the mill in any
direction. It'll help prevent tipping as the skid would force the whole weight of the
mill to be lifted before it could tip over.
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On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V


Purpose built skid = good idea

lower knee fully, center table side to side, rotate head upside down,
this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to get through
doorways easily.

Your trailer or a rented trailer sounds like best idea, use
chains/straps on bottom and on top, all 4 ways like a X.
bolt mill to skid, bottom straps on skid or direct to mill.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.
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On Oct 28, 8:27*am, Randy wrote:
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. *As always, thanks!


V


Purpose built skid = good idea

lower knee fully, center table side to side, rotate head upside down,
this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to get through
doorways easily.

Your trailer or a rented trailer sounds like best idea, use
chains/straps on bottom and on top, all 4 ways like a X.
*bolt mill to skid, bottom straps on skid or direct to mill.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.


Gentlemen. I have taken your fine ideas and put 'em in motion. I'm
nearly finished with a 48" x 48" skid that I've made from 4" channel
iron and 2" flat bar. It never would have crossed my mind to do this
but for your collective advice. I built it a little smaller than the
4' x 6' that Roy recommended in order to be able to get a pallet jack
past the center line from front, back, or either side. My Hudson
trailer has two pieces of 48" x 48" x 1/4" x diamond plate centered
over the tandem axles and welded to the trailer frame. Once the skid
is finished I will thru bolt the 4 corners of the skid down through
the diamond plate. I will similarly bolt the base of the mill down to
the skid. By the time I take off it will look like a spider web on
wheels. The doubled X braces are a fine idea, too. Ships use that
concept to tie up to docks. We called 'em "springer" lines.

Does anybody know the difference between a f"airy tale" and "a sea
story"? Fairy tales start with "Once upon a time..." Sea stories
start with "Now this is no ****!"

Thanks. Y'all are awesome!

V
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On Oct 28, 7:10*pm, Vernon wrote:
On Oct 28, 8:27*am, Randy wrote:





On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:


Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. *As always, thanks!


V


Purpose built skid = good idea


lower knee fully, center table side to side, rotate head upside down,
this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to get through
doorways easily.


Your trailer or a rented trailer sounds like best idea, use
chains/straps on bottom and on top, all 4 ways like a X.
*bolt mill to skid, bottom straps on skid or direct to mill.


Thank You,
Randy


Remove 333 from email address to reply.


Gentlemen. *I have taken your fine ideas and put 'em in motion. *I'm
nearly finished with a 48" x 48" skid that I've made from 4" channel
iron and 2" flat bar. *It never would have crossed my mind to do this
but for your collective advice. *I built it a little smaller than the
4' x 6' that Roy recommended in order to be able to get a pallet jack
past the center line from front, back, or either side. *My Hudson
trailer has two pieces of 48" x 48" x 1/4" x diamond plate centered
over the tandem axles and welded to the trailer frame. *Once the skid
is finished I will thru bolt the 4 corners of the skid down through
the diamond plate. *I will similarly bolt the base of the mill down to
the skid. *By the time I take off it will look like a spider web on
wheels. *The doubled X braces are a fine idea, too. *Ships use that
concept to tie up to docks. *We called 'em "springer" lines.

Does anybody know the difference between a f"airy tale" and "a sea
story"? *Fairy tales start with "Once upon a time..." *Sea stories
start with "Now this is no ****!"

Thanks. *Y'all are awesome!

V- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Gentlemen. We just got home safely with the Bridgeport and a
Syncrowave 300 welder. The loaded trailer weighed about 10,000 lbs.
The '85 Ford E350 van pulled the loaded trailer very well in terms of
the steering and suspension. However, the tired old 6.9L naturally
aspirated diesel engine fell flat on her tired old face. A couple of
times we found ourselves doing 5 mph going up grades on the interstate
out of Springdale, Arkansas. It was truly dicey.

But the bridgeport is home. Long live the bridgeport! Woo hoo!
Vernon
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Congratulations on a successful trip. Sorry to hear about the tired old engine, but you
had a pretty good load on it and I expect some of those hills were pretty steep.

Al

=====

Vernon wrote:

Gentlemen. We just got home safely with the Bridgeport and a
Syncrowave 300 welder. The loaded trailer weighed about 10,000 lbs.
The '85 Ford E350 van pulled the loaded trailer very well in terms of
the steering and suspension. However, the tired old 6.9L naturally
aspirated diesel engine fell flat on her tired old face. A couple of
times we found ourselves doing 5 mph going up grades on the interstate
out of Springdale, Arkansas. It was truly dicey.

But the bridgeport is home. Long live the bridgeport! Woo hoo!
Vernon



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Default Moving a bridgeport

Between the Bridgeport, and the Syncrowave, you will be able to do
almost anything.

i
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Default Moving a bridgeport

On Oct 26, 2:28 pm, Vernon wrote:
Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my
new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy
of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a
mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british
consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws
into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the
manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings.
But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport,
Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves
me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel
van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very
stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy
for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross
weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the
capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial
duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all
around.

I recently bought the trailer and we re-wired it. This will be our
first major trip with it. Since it is an older trailer (1989?) this
afternoon I took it to Gary's, my tractor mechanic's, house for him to
inspect, service, and/or repair, as needed. Today Gary rebuilt the
tilt cylinders in my Case forklift which were hemorrhaging hydraulic
fluid. In short order he had the kits in, a hydraulic oil change, and
the forklift working like a champ. It is a Case 584CK. It will lift
4,000 pounds 22 feet into the air. This means I could drop the mill
through the roof if I chose to do so... ah, the powah!!!

By Monday afternoon, Gary will make a pronouncement as to whether the
trailer is seaworthy. If so, I will depart Monday night or Tuesday to
pick up the mill.

If Gary finds any serious problems that can't be fixed within 24 hours
I will go to "Plan B". This involves renting a Ryder truck.

Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the
equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch
trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I
will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill
down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even
use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure
that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain
it.

If I take a Ryder truck however, I'm less certain as to how to secure
the machine. Those trucks have aluminum boxes with steel stanchions
every 4 feet or so. Along the sides, about 36" from the floor, are
some 1x4 smooth wooden rails. These do not seem very sturdy to me.
Also, I probably will catch grief from drilling holes in the floor of
the truck. Also, even though the trucks have tommy lifts, I will
still have to roll the machine some 20 feet forward into the cavernous
box of the truck.

Is it a viable plan to set the thing down on a pallet jack? I'm not
sure the foot print of the mill is even big enough to catch the legs
of the jack.

Once I get there, the seller will load me. But then they will wash
their hands and close the door.

I have moved things this heavy. But not this "concentrated" and not
with this high of a center of gravity.

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who
have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V


I envy you - not the hassles of moving the thing, but having the space
in your workshop to set it up and use it! - good luck, it would be all
my wet dreams come true..

Andrew VK3BFA.
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