Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on
but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc.,
mount? Books and Google are no help.

Thanks,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

ebay can be of help. Look for d1-6 in Business and Industrial section.

example

http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Skinner-Lathe... 286.m20.l1116

On 2008-10-14, Michael Koblic wrote:
Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on
but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc.,
mount? Books and Google are no help.

Thanks,


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Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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"Michael Koblic" wrote:

Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on
but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc.,
mount? Books and Google are no help.

Thanks,

IIRC, the D series are cam locks, pins with a cam ramp that pull chuck onto a short
spindle taper. Nice and fast to change.

L series you can find info on at
http://www.garage-machinist.com/manu...ies/index.html

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Ignoramus12952" wrote in message
...
ebay can be of help. Look for d1-6 in Business and Industrial section.

example

http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Skinner-Lathe... 286.m20.l1116


Yes, but what does it *mean*?

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus12952" wrote in message
...
ebay can be of help. Look for d1-6 in Business and Industrial section.

example

http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Skinner-Lathe... 286.m20.l1116


Yes, but what does it *mean*?



maybe this will help:

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vic...the_Chuck.html

http://littlemachineshop.com/info/chuckadapters.php

I'll try a more basic answer: The old line chucks were screwed onto a
threaded spindle. These don't give a positive centering action as they
wear as well as a little problem with high speed reversing: If you
accidentally hit reverse, the chuck would unscrew and sail across the room.

The D series have a short taper that centers the chuck, along with 3
pins with cam holes to positively lock things into place. To pull a
chuck off you unlock the cams half way, pound on the chuck with a rubber
hammer to pop the taper, release the cams all the way to allow the chuck
to come off. Put the new chuck on the spindle, tighten the cams. The
cams usually use the same key as the chuck, are located in the collar.

Michael Koblic wrote:
Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on
but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc.,
mount? Books and Google are no help.

Thanks,

"RoyJ" wrote in message
...
I'll try a more basic answer: The old line chucks were screwed onto a
threaded spindle. These don't give a positive centering action as they
wear as well as a little problem with high speed reversing: If you
accidentally hit reverse, the chuck would unscrew and sail across the
room.

The D series have a short taper that centers the chuck, along with 3 pins
with cam holes to positively lock things into place. To pull a chuck off
you unlock the cams half way, pound on the chuck with a rubber hammer to
pop the taper, release the cams all the way to allow the chuck to come
off. Put the new chuck on the spindle, tighten the cams. The cams usually
use the same key as the chuck, are located in the collar.

Now I got it. Thanks.

"Den" wrote in message
...

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vic...the_Chuck.html

OK, I see that.

http://littlemachineshop.com/info/chuckadapters.php

From what I have learned so far these are not the D-type
thingies...Straight: bolt the chuck to a plate - screw the plate to the
spindle thingies...or am I wrong?

RoyJ writes:

Put the new chuck on the spindle, tighten the cams.

You forgot: clean chips off everything. For me this is the most choresome
step in changing a chuck.

On Oct 15, 12:32*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Den" wrote in message

http://littlemachineshop.com/info/chuckadapters.php

From what I have learned so far these are not the D-type
thingies...Straight: bolt the chuck to a plate - screw the plate to the
spindle thingies...or am I wrong?

Yes, they are for threaded spindles. All types of spindle work OK,
some may be a little better in some ways but you learn what your own
machine will and won't do and adapt to it. I have the supposedly least
desireable type of lathe with a threaded spindle and leather belt
drive and it works fine for me, although it won't cut as deep or fast
as other more modern lathes I've used.

The only unsatisfactory lathe spindle I've seen is on the old 6"
Craftsman 109 / AA lathe. The 1/2-20 thread would be OK but the Morse
taper cut in it weakens it too much.

On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:34:15 -0500, RoyJ
wrote:

The D series have a short taper that centers the chuck, along with 3
pins with cam holes to positively lock things into place.

I'll add my .02.
The number of pins varies with the size of the mount. A D1-5 like my
lathe has 6 pins, although my 5C collet closer only has 3 on it, I
guess they figure you can only put so much cutting force on a peice
small enough to go in a 5C collet.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

Been there, done that, had to tear down and clean it like I should have
to start with.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
RoyJ writes:

Put the new chuck on the spindle, tighten the cams.

You forgot: clean chips off everything. For me this is the most choresome
step in changing a chuck.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Oct 15, 12:32 am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Den" wrote in message


The only unsatisfactory lathe spindle I've seen is on the old 6"
Craftsman 109 / AA lathe. The 1/2-20 thread would be OK but the Morse
taper cut in it weakens it too much.

***Let me get this right: It has a 1/2"-20 thread which *itself* is tapered?
How does this work? And why do it in the first place?

On Oct 15, 3:33*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...
On Oct 15, 12:32 am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:

The only unsatisfactory lathe spindle I've seen is on the old 6"
Craftsman 109 / AA lathe. The 1/2-20 thread would be OK but the Morse
taper cut in it weakens it too much.

***Let me get this right: It has a 1/2"-20 thread which *itself* is tapered?
How does this work? And why do it in the first place?

The outside of the spindle is a straight 1/2-20 thread. The inside is
reamed Morse 0 which makes the spindle nose a thin-walled tube that
flexes a little too easily. The good part is that the spindle takes a
standard Jacobs thread-mount chuck which is very convenient for
polishing and high-speed deep hole drilling as long as hole alignment
isn't critical. I used this lathe to drill the grease passages in the
pivot pins for my front end loader, after center-drilling them
accurately in the South Bend. Drilling sixteen 3/32" holes 2" deep was
just too tedious on the SB.

There are several other "why do it?" design choices on the 109 lathe.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

The outside of the spindle is a straight 1/2-20 thread. The inside is
reamed Morse 0 which makes the spindle nose a thin-walled tube that
flexes a little too easily. The good part is that the spindle takes a
standard Jacobs thread-mount chuck which is very convenient for
polishing and high-speed deep hole drilling as long as hole alignment
isn't critical. I used this lathe to drill the grease passages in the
pivot pins for my front end loader, after center-drilling them
accurately in the South Bend. Drilling sixteen 3/32" holes 2" deep was
just too tedious on the SB.

There are several other "why do it?" design choices on the 109 lathe.

***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

On 2008-10-15, Michael Koblic wrote:

[ ... ]

***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper?

Quite uncommon, actually. I have a MT-0 reamer, which I used to
fit fiddle pegs to an Appalachian Dulcimer. The smallest tools which I
have with Morse Taper shanks are MT-1 -- the tailstock taper for my
Compact-5/CNC and my (pretty much retired) Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe.
The spindle taper on both are MT-2, as is the taper in my drill press.
I do have a few MT-1 shanked drill bits for the tailstock use -- and
some adaptors to turn taps and corresponding drills into MT-1 shanks.

My 12x24" Clausing has a MT-3 tailstock taper and a MT-4-1/2
headstock taper.

Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

As I said -- quite uncommon, though you might find watchmaker's
lathes with that taper. (Most have WW collet tapers instead.)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 16:56:26 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

The outside of the spindle is a straight 1/2-20 thread. The inside is
reamed Morse 0 which makes the spindle nose a thin-walled tube that
flexes a little too easily. The good part is that the spindle takes a
standard Jacobs thread-mount chuck which is very convenient for
polishing and high-speed deep hole drilling as long as hole alignment
isn't critical. I used this lathe to drill the grease passages in the
pivot pins for my front end loader, after center-drilling them
accurately in the South Bend. Drilling sixteen 3/32" holes 2" deep was
just too tedious on the SB.

There are several other "why do it?" design choices on the 109 lathe.

***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

Good evening

iirc. . . Sherline lathe, Tailstock MT-0, Headstock MT-1

Bob
rgentry at oz dot net

On Oct 15, 7:56*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
....

***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

MT1 is the smallest common size on machine tool spindles and taper-
shank drill bits. My lathe's tailstock is MT2, which is a good useful
size for turning the likes of a 40 Lb hunk of scrap hydraulic cylinder
rod. MT1 drill bits fit with adapter sleeves. Normally tailstock drill
chucks work fine, my lathe was abused and has a replacement tailstock
spindle that is somewhat loose and taper-shank drill bits give better
results.

That's the risk of buying old machine tools. The 10" South Bend (or
Logan, et al.) is a nice lathe for a home shop but mine has a few
problems I have to work around. I can do that because like you I
design all the parts I make. It isn't the right machine to crank out
stuff for a living, that's probably why I could buy it fairly cheap.

I mentioned that Sears lathe as a bad example to avoid unless you only
make small toys out of soft material. It might actually be OK for
aluminum or brass gnomons but a poor choice to turn steel shafts for
your rotary polishing table. There may be others, I've seen complaints
about some of the Unimats being too flexible to make steel parts also.
I don't know much about the other mini lathes. 9 - 10 inch (diameter)
capacity seems about the minimum for making parts for gas-powered
equipment.

Jim Wilkins

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Oct 15, 7:56 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

MT1 is the smallest common size on machine tool spindles and taper-
shank drill bits. My lathe's tailstock is MT2, which is a good useful
size for turning the likes of a 40 Lb hunk of scrap hydraulic cylinder
rod. MT1 drill bits fit with adapter sleeves. Normally tailstock drill
chucks work fine, my lathe was abused and has a replacement tailstock
spindle that is somewhat loose and taper-shank drill bits give better
results.

That's the risk of buying old machine tools. The 10" South Bend (or
Logan, et al.) is a nice lathe for a home shop but mine has a few
problems I have to work around. I can do that because like you I
design all the parts I make. It isn't the right machine to crank out
stuff for a living, that's probably why I could buy it fairly cheap.

I mentioned that Sears lathe as a bad example to avoid unless you only
make small toys out of soft material. It might actually be OK for
aluminum or brass gnomons but a poor choice to turn steel shafts for
your rotary polishing table. There may be others, I've seen complaints
about some of the Unimats being too flexible to make steel parts also.
I don't know much about the other mini lathes. 9 - 10 inch (diameter)
capacity seems about the minimum for making parts for gas-powered
equipment.

The old Sears/Dunlap/AA 109s are cute little metal lathe "models".
Their best use is freshly restored and painted and gracing a shelf in
your library. That's where mine are.

On 2008-10-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Oct 15, 7:56*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular
taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than
MT2.

MT1 is the smallest common size on machine tool spindles and taper-
shank drill bits. My lathe's tailstock is MT2, which is a good useful
size for turning the likes of a 40 Lb hunk of scrap hydraulic cylinder
rod. MT1 drill bits fit with adapter sleeves. Normally tailstock drill
chucks work fine, my lathe was abused and has a replacement tailstock
spindle that is somewhat loose and taper-shank drill bits give better
results.

And you can use MT-3 shank drill bits (up to 1" diameter) in a
tailstock like the one on my 12x24" Clausing, or use the smaller shanks
with one or two reducer sleeves.

That's the risk of buying old machine tools. The 10" South Bend (or
Logan, et al.) is a nice lathe for a home shop but mine has a few
problems I have to work around. I can do that because like you I
design all the parts I make. It isn't the right machine to crank out
stuff for a living, that's probably why I could buy it fairly cheap.

That -- and the fact that it is a bit small for serious
production work -- even for smaller parts.

I mentioned that Sears lathe as a bad example to avoid unless you only
make small toys out of soft material.

Let's be clear *which* Sears lathe, as there were two 6" lathes
offered by Sears. There is the 109 series (made by AA tool, IIRC) with
the tiny spindle -- way too small for a 6" swing lathe. There is also
the Atlas/Craftsman 6x18" which is MT2 spindle taper with a 1"x(I
forget the pitch) threaded spindle, and a MT-1 taper in the tailstock.
This was a much more solid machine -- though it would have been nice to
have a quick-change gearbox for it.

It might actually be OK for
aluminum or brass gnomons but a poor choice to turn steel shafts for
your rotary polishing table. There may be others, I've seen complaints
about some of the Unimats being too flexible to make steel parts also.

The SL-1000 and the DB-200 -- early Unimats with a bed
consisting of two steel rods resting in 'V's in an aluminum base for the
SL-1000, and I think perhaps a cast iron base for the earlier DB-200.

Some later Unimats use the same cast bed as the Emco-Maier
Compact-5 lahtes (one flat and one V way -- the same ways used for both
the carriage and the tailstock). Those are rather more rigid for the
size.

I don't know much about the other mini lathes. 9 - 10 inch (diameter)
capacity seems about the minimum for making parts for gas-powered
equipment.

There are times when I would like to have something larger than
my current 12x24" -- but the space consumed makes this an awkward
tradeoff.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Michael Koblic wrote:
Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on
but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc.,
mount?
The D1 series use a flat and taper to align the chuck, and a set of big
notched pins and cams to pull the chuck against the flat. The cams are
called cam locks, so the whole system is often referred to as a cam-lock
chuck or spindle. The cams are radial pins with an eccentric section,
and are mounted in the spindle such that the look like an extra set of
chuck pinions. Often, the same chuck key works both. The spindle face
needs to be very accurately machined, as well as the matching chuck
backplate, as both the taper and flat are supposed to mate at the same
time. This essentially means zero tolerance on the fit.

The chuck is VERY securely mounted with this method, for instance a D1-6
can have 6 cam-lock pins, each nearly 1" in diameter, holding it on.
Generally, D1 spindles have some of the largest through holes for their
size. For instance, my Sheldon model R15-6 15" lathe with D1-6 mount
has a 2.25" spindle through hole.

Jon

Michael Koblic wrote:
"Den" wrote in message
...

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vic...the_Chuck.html

OK, I see that.
http://littlemachineshop.com/info/chuckadapters.php

From what I have learned so far these are not the D-type
thingies...Straight: bolt the chuck to a plate - screw the plate to the
spindle thingies...or am I wrong?


D1 spindles are NOT threaded, so you are right.

Jon