ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"

when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.

anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable

what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')

questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?

and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?

I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...

still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...

is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
but we can address that later :-)

thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)

toolie

dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html

I have the HF-P machine. I downloaded the manual from Miller for free.
http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
You might be able to test it with co2 if you have it.
Get the argon bottle. Tig is so clean.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

On 2008-10-03, dave wrote:
ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"

This is a very simple welder, with plenty of people who own similar
ones, etc.

when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.

cool

anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

you need to read the manual. You can test the pedal with regular
welding rod. Set it to REMOTE and use the pedal to turn it on and off.

- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

Again, use your stick electrode at low setting and see if

1) there is hissing sound from the spark gap

2) the arc starts when you get your electrode merely near
"work". (without contact) If so the HF works fine

Again, set your HF intensity low so you do not get stung.

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable

they probably are fine


what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')

You do not need any of that to check it, just use your stick electrode
as I said above

questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?

Your manual should say that

and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?

test it with your multimeter

I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...

still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...

is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
but we can address that later :-)

all is doable in under 5 minutes.

i

thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)

toolie

dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

dave wrote:

ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"

when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.

anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable

what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')

questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?

and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?

I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...

still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...

The footpedal does two things. It has a limit switch that turns on a bunch
of stuff, including HF and the water and gas solenoids. It also can regulate
current. You need to read the manual. Download it from millerwelds.com - free.

The 110V outlet is for a water cooler. It is on whenever the welder's main
off/on switch is on. If you aren't going to use a TIG cooler don't worry
about it, or plug in a grinder, etc.

The first cut test for your HF is to turn on the welder and then turn on your
HF. You will hear the buzzing and see it sparking if it's working. (Set the
switch to "continuous").

Try plugging in your pedal and, with the welder on, step on it all the way.
I don't know if you should be able to hear the solenoids or not.

The water solenoid is if you want to connect city water to your torch and have
it flow only when you're welding. Obviously, the torch's water outlet should
be piped to a tank or to a drain.

Try the manual. Really. Get the one for your exact serial number.

Grant
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

dave wrote:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

Does it have an amp meter? If so, just short the electrode to the
ground clamp, and press the pedal. If the current follows the pedal,
the current regulator works.
- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

Listen for the click, it should be plainly audible. My Lincoln only has
a gas solenoid. There is a pre-flow timer that prevents the HF from
turning on until the delay times out. So, when you press the pedal,
there should be a clunk, then after a bit the HF should start hissing,
then after you let up on the pedal, after a delay, the gas solenoid
should clunk again.
- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

Just set up to weld with no gas. If the HF is working, you should get
little lightning bolts 1/4" or so through air. (They will be a LOT
longer with Argon.)

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable


Harder to test without some compressed gas with the right thread on the
bottle.

Jon

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:53:23 -0400, dave
wrote:

ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"

when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.

anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable

what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')

You can test it by simply kicking the pedal while seeing if the HF
comes on and then an arc. Keep the amps down to about 25 or so and you
can actually weld without any gas. Gonna be an ugly weld but you will
be able to see if she is working.

Ive got a couple of the Dialarcs, including 1 HF. Really really good
machines.

questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?

If it was equipped with a water solenoid...most of them ran the water
only when tigging, but most guys would route it so the water ran
whenever the power was turned on. Post cooling is important at high
ranges.

and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?

Whenever the machine is turned on..its hot. Be advised that most (not
all, but most) were run from a control transformer, so go easy on
whatever loads you put on it. Ive got a small grinder sitting on the
top of each of my Tig machines for tungsten grinding. DO NOT try to
run your angle grinder etc etc from those 110vt outputs. You will pop
the breaker/fuse very quickly.

I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...

Ayup.

still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...

is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
but we can address that later :-)

thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)

toolie

Sounds like you got a handle on it. (no pun intended)

dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html

On Fri, 3 Oct 2008 10:07:39 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

I have the HF-P machine. I downloaded the manual from Miller for free.
http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
You might be able to test it with co2 if you have it.

The electrode will last about 15 seconds...sigh..been there, done
that.


Get the argon bottle. Tig is so clean.

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:08:24 -0500, Ignoramus26581
wrote:

On 2008-10-03, dave wrote:
ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I
picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it
repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since"

This is a very simple welder, with plenty of people who own similar
ones, etc.

when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded
horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY
underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up
inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at
the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the
rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was
why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got
VASTLY improved results.

cool

anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't
want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to
find out:

- if the footpedal functions seem workable, and

you need to read the manual. You can test the pedal with regular
welding rod. Set it to REMOTE and use the pedal to turn it on and off.

AND check the HF.

Stick welding with 70xx with the HF turned on is a treat. Restarts are
instantaneous and brisk. (sorry..forgot he said he had leads, when I
wrote my previous posting)

- if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and
hoses and such) seem workable, and

- if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and

Again, use your stick electrode at low setting and see if

1) there is hissing sound from the spark gap

2) the arc starts when you get your electrode merely near
"work". (without contact) If so the HF works fine

Again, set your HF intensity low so you do not get stung.

- if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable

they probably are fine


what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose,
and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal,
flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark
will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already
been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will
be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon')

You do not need any of that to check it, just use your stick electrode
as I said above

questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder),
does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or
only when the tig has an ARC going? or when?

Your manual should say that

and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near
the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time,
whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is
on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody
know?

test it with your multimeter

I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water
flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten
to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away'
and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will
show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter
ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob...

still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all
using the tests above...

is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side"
but we can address that later :-)

all is doable in under 5 minutes.

i

thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-)

toolie

dialarc "looked like this" on day one:
http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html