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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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testing the HF functions (old dialarc HF), withOUT an inert gas bottlelongish
ok, got my ancient dialarc on ebay. still have no idea if the tig
functions work entirely, some, or not at all. seller told me (when I picked it up) "welder wasn't tigging right, took it in to have it repaired, they fixed it, and it hasn't worked right since" when I first got it home, I tried the welder (on AC and DC). it welded horribly, output didn't seem adjustable, and also seemed WAY underpowered. removed all the welders outer sheetmetal, cleaned it up inside, and while 'detailing' the interior found a wire disconnected at the rheostat. pushed the female end back onto its male spade@the rheostat. -assumed- (hoped) the wire disconnected at the rheostat was why. tested it again (AC and DC only) with the wire back ON and got VASTLY improved results. anyway, bubba here has no TIG gas bottle, and, to be frank-like, doesn't want to spring for one just for "TIG functions" test purposes. need to find out: - if the footpedal functions seem workable, and - if the gas and water flow solenoids (and their related circuits and hoses and such) seem workable, and - if the HF spark-gap point setup is functioning, and - if the TIG gas regulator and flowmeter seems workable what I'm thinking is I can hook the tig torch water to the garden hose, and feed compressed air into the gas solenoid, plug in the footpedal, flick both switches to 'remote', flick the HF 'on' and see if the spark will jump a gap (torch to workpiece). the .008 HF contacts have already been cleaned and correctly gapped, of course. NO welding whatsoever will be attempted (while using 'air substituting for argon') questions: once the garden hose water flow is on (open to the welder), does the water flow 'full time' when the garden hose valve is open, or only when the tig has an ARC going? or when? and re the (tig cooler pump) electrical outlet in the welder face near the water solenoid: I assume it's live, uhh, when? ALL the time, whenever the welder main switch is on? or just when the main switch is on and both front toggle switches are set to 'remote'? or, does anybody know? I think I can test, with the procedure above, wether I have good water flow through the torch, and wether the HF spark will jump the (tungsten to workpiece) gap. I assume if it does, the points are 'sparking away' and are also "good to go". maybe the air flow to the gas regulator will show if the regulator is also workable, and the tiny white flowmeter ball will go up slightly when I turn the regulator knob... still not at all clear if I can test the 'footpedal functions' at all using the tests above... is this test a doable idea? I realize "it's a bit on the screwy side" but we can address that later :-) thanks for ideas and insights, guys :-) toolie dialarc "looked like this" on day one: http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html |
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