The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

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Ignoramus22839 wrote:
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

Motors need "some" endplay, i.e.: for lube space.
Shim it for .006-.010, see if that helps.

"Ignoramus22839" wrote in message
...
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.


See if that bearing is getting hot. It may just need a burn-in period but you
might reconsider the shim pack and give it a bit of play. I always bang the
shaft of a motor I re-bearing back and forth a bit with a soft-blow hammer to
help "seat" everything. The seals do add a bit of friction for a while.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:30:25 -0500, Ignoramus22839
wrote:

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.


It depends on what your input voltage is. The higher the volts, the
smaller the amps.

a 5 amp difference is negligible in the grand scheme of things

Gunner

On 2008-06-19, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ignoramus22839" wrote in message
...
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.


See if that bearing is getting hot. It may just need a burn-in period but you
might reconsider the shim pack and give it a bit of play. I always bang the
shaft of a motor I re-bearing back and forth a bit with a soft-blow hammer to
help "seat" everything. The seals do add a bit of friction for a while.



Yes, I am positive that I goofed on the play (shimming) issue and
shimmed too much. I will leave 1/16 inch of play per Baldor and will
see if it makes any difference.

i

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On 2008-06-19, Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:30:25 -0500, Ignoramus22839
wrote:

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.


It depends on what your input voltage is. The higher the volts, the
smaller the amps.

a 5 amp difference is negligible in the grand scheme of things

I am just worried about the motor overheating. Anyway, I will give it
a little more play and will see how it goes, but I am very hopeful.

--
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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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On 2008-06-19, DoTell wrote:
Ignoramus22839 wrote:
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

Motors need "some" endplay, i.e.: for lube space.
Shim it for .006-.010, see if that helps.


yep.. I will... the finale is close...

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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posting on Usenet.
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On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:48:03 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
"DoTell" quickly quoth:

Ignoramus22839 wrote:
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

Motors need "some" endplay, i.e.: for lube space.
Shim it for .006-.010, see if that helps.

And ohm out the windings so he can tell which one is shorting?

--
After all, it is those who have a deep and real inner life who
are best able to deal with the irritating details of outer life.
-- Evelyn Underhill

On 2008-06-19, Randy wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 07:02:55 -0500, Ignoramus8073
wrote:

On 2008-06-19, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ignoramus22839" wrote in message
...
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.


See if that bearing is getting hot. It may just need a burn-in period but you
might reconsider the shim pack and give it a bit of play. I always bang the
shaft of a motor I re-bearing back and forth a bit with a soft-blow hammer to
help "seat" everything. The seals do add a bit of friction for a while.



Yes, I am positive that I goofed on the play (shimming) issue and
shimmed too much. I will leave 1/16 inch of play per Baldor and will
see if it makes any difference.

i
Most motors I've dealt with use a wave spring at the dead end to
thrust the rotor forward and still allow for the rotor to expand when
it gets hot.

look he
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/1198


I will order it today (need to get a pressure switch also)

thanks Randy...

i

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 07:02:55 -0500, Ignoramus8073
wrote:

On 2008-06-19, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ignoramus22839" wrote in message
...
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.


See if that bearing is getting hot. It may just need a burn-in period but you
might reconsider the shim pack and give it a bit of play. I always bang the
shaft of a motor I re-bearing back and forth a bit with a soft-blow hammer to
help "seat" everything. The seals do add a bit of friction for a while.



Yes, I am positive that I goofed on the play (shimming) issue and
shimmed too much. I will leave 1/16 inch of play per Baldor and will
see if it makes any difference.

i
Most motors I've dealt with use a wave spring at the dead end to
thrust the rotor forward and still allow for the rotor to expand when
it gets hot.

look he
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/1198


Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

DoTell wrote:
Ignoramus22839 wrote:
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

Motors need "some" endplay, i.e.: for lube space.
Shim it for .006-.010, see if that helps.

I believe the endplay is needed to allow
the rotor to center itself in the stator's
magnetic field while running.

On 2008-06-19, Jim Stewart wrote:
DoTell wrote:
Ignoramus22839 wrote:
The ultimate issue with the motor, and the reason why it vibrated so
much and ran so badly and used 35 (IIRC) amps instead of 24, was that
the DE (Drive End) bearing was shot.

I did two things:

1) Replaced Drive End bearing
2) Shimmed the bearing so that there is no "end play" in the
shaft. (along the axis)

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is rated for
24 amps.

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

So, as of now, the compressor runs great as far as I could tell, aside
of the amps question.

Motors need "some" endplay, i.e.: for lube space.
Shim it for .006-.010, see if that helps.

I believe the endplay is needed to allow

the rotor to center itself in the stator's
magnetic field while running.

What I think now is that the original owner of this compressor used a
wrong bearing, not 6206, but a bearing that was thinner and thus
allowed too much endplay. I believe that I should simply take the
shims that I put, out, and with the correct 6206 bearing the rotor
should have just the right amount of end play.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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Ignoramus22839 wrote:

I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)

ZZ or Z means shielded, not sealed.

Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus22839 wrote:


I used a 6206Z bearing. (note the Z, meaning double sealed)


ZZ or Z means shielded, not sealed.


And in my experience Z would be one shield and ZZ 2 shields, one each
side. IIRC sometimes the designation is L or LL and for rubber seals RS
or 2RS. For one offs I was recommended to get 2 seal/shield variants as
more commonly stocked and flip one out if not required as it easy to do.

Make sure you have good supply voltage. Compressors really don't
like extension cords of any description.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ignoramus8073" wrote in
message ...
On 2008-06-19, Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:30:25 -0500, Ignoramus22839
wrote:

After I replaced it, the motor no longer vibrates, purrs like a
baby,
and runs this compressor quietly. The only remaining question
that I
have, is how come the running amps are 29, when the motor is
rated for
24 amps.


It depends on what your input voltage is. The higher the volts,
the
smaller the amps.

a 5 amp difference is negligible in the grand scheme of things

I am just worried about the motor overheating. Anyway, I will
give it
a little more play and will see how it goes, but I am very
hopeful.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles
originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen
by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

DanG wrote:

Make sure you have good supply voltage. Compressors really don't
like extension cords of any description.

Check supply voltage, yes, never use "extension cords", no. The entire
power distribution system is an "extension cord", and there is nothing
wrong with using "extension cords" as long as they are of a proper gauge
for the length and load and have quality connectors of appropriate
ratings.

On 2008-06-20, Pete C. wrote:

DanG wrote:

Make sure you have good supply voltage. Compressors really don't
like extension cords of any description.

Check supply voltage, yes, never use "extension cords", no. The entire
power distribution system is an "extension cord", and there is nothing
wrong with using "extension cords" as long as they are of a proper gauge
for the length and load and have quality connectors of appropriate
ratings.

I believe that with my cord, the voltage stays at 230 or so.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
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