I'm trying to remove a 1/2" Jacobs chuck from a Milwaukee D handle
right angle drill. Milwaukee says to remove the 90 degree adapter w/
chuck, secure the nut behind the chuck, remove the reverse threaded
screw, insert largest allen wrench into chuck and whack the hell out
of it in the CCW direction. (jacobschuck.com says the same exact
thing)

This thing won't budge despite the whacks and I'm 100% certain I'm
doing it correctly. What is plan B when you have a stubborn chuck?
(penetrants, heat, alternating heat and cold, etc). I can't use too
much heat because right behind the chuck is a sealed bearing in the 90
degree elbow gear case.

If I do get this thing broken free should I use antiseeze compound to
prevent this from happening again?

Bud wrote:
... What is plan B when you have a stubborn chuck?...

Do you have an impact wrench & a socket small enough to fit the largest
hex stock that the chuck will hold?

Bob

Bud wrote:
... insert largest allen wrench into chuck and whack the hell out
of it in the CCW direction. ...

This is what I've always done, but I recently read (in a Milwaukee
Owner's Manual, I think) to put the key in one of its holes & hit it. I
like this much better as the shock is directly to the chuck body, rather
than through the jaws.

Bob

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Bud wrote:
... What is plan B when you have a stubborn chuck?...

Do you have an impact wrench & a socket small enough to fit the largest
hex stock that the chuck will hold?

Bob

Or use one of those Hex sockets that you have for GM brake jobs.

Stuart

Bud wrote:
I'm trying to remove a 1/2" Jacobs chuck from a Milwaukee D handle
right angle drill. Milwaukee says to remove the 90 degree adapter w/
chuck, secure the nut behind the chuck, remove the reverse threaded
screw, insert largest allen wrench into chuck and whack the hell out
of it in the CCW direction. (jacobschuck.com says the same exact
thing)

This thing won't budge despite the whacks and I'm 100% certain I'm
doing it correctly. What is plan B when you have a stubborn chuck?
(penetrants, heat, alternating heat and cold, etc). I can't use too
much heat because right behind the chuck is a sealed bearing in the 90
degree elbow gear case.

If I do get this thing broken free should I use antiseeze compound to
prevent this from happening again?

I have used a soft faced hammer (urethane face) to remove these
chucks, often without a wrench on the shank.

Done by striking a glancing blow, on the side that results in
unscrewing the chuck off the mandrel.

Do whatever you have to, to secure the shank or mandrel in a vise,
then put the biggest hex key or stock that you can, into the chuck (1/2
inch) and get a wrench onto it. An impact would work. A little heat
might help, as dried old oil may have varnished it in place.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Thanks, it finally broke free. I used a 1/2" socket with an allen
wrench stub and an impact gun. I set the gun to the max. torque
setting and it still wouldn't break free. Finally I gave it some heat
trying to keep from burning up the rubber bearing seal. That did the
job!!

I think I'll use some anti-seeze compound in the future. This model
drill can be converted from straight drive to right angle drive. I
hate to fight the chuck removal each time I do a changeover.

On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 06:57:11 -0700 (PDT), Bud wrote:

Thanks, it finally broke free. I used a 1/2" socket with an allen
wrench stub and an impact gun. I set the gun to the max. torque
setting and it still wouldn't break free. Finally I gave it some heat
trying to keep from burning up the rubber bearing seal. That did the
job!!

I think I'll use some anti-seeze compound in the future. This model
drill can be converted from straight drive to right angle drive. I
hate to fight the chuck removal each time I do a changeover.


Buy a second chuck, keep one on the right angle drive, then you only
have to remove the one.

Thank You,
Randy

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