It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
ns...
It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I
cannot make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I recently bought myself a Starrett hacksaw frame - it is really very nice,
but I consider it a luxury, it's not a necessity


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"William Noble" wrote:

I recently bought myself a Starrett hacksaw frame - it is really very nice,
but I consider it a luxury, it's not a necessity

Like this one?
https://www.hardwareworld.com/K145-H...e-pRNHBFI.aspx

I need one for home since my other one is at work and I don't have a
metalworking bandsaw atm. Uncle's saw is 1.4 miles away and has free coffee
when I visit Probably time to buy him a band for it.

Wes

In article
ns,
"Michael Koblic" wrote:

It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?



Yes, there is nothing like a good stiff high tension hacksaw frame...
they're wonderful!

Gone are the days of wandering kerfs, and uncontrolled cuts in general.

Intricate cuts are possible with a little practice, much along the lines
of the 'magic' of a good file in the hands of a master.

I have two of them, my favorite is an older, essentially identical
version of this one...

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20918-4012/

The one piece die cast aluminum handle and frame end have good feel, are
surprisingly light, and easy to clean. The 'spine' is steel, and will
store spare blades... however, spares stored in the frame rattle and
seem a bit 'Mickey Mouse' in actual use.

I also have a Craftsman frame I've delegated to the car emergency tool
bag. While equally stiff, it's a little larger, heavier, and has a
rubber handle grip insert that looks good, but collects crud and is
difficult to clean. While only about 10 years old, this insert is
already showing age with cracks and the like. I haven't seen this frame
in the store in a while now.

One caution is to remember to relieve the blade tension when the frame
isn't in use.

Erik

On May 17, 10:07 pm, Erik wrote:
In article
ns,
"Michael Koblic" wrote:

It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

Yes, there is nothing like a good stiff high tension hacksaw frame...
they're wonderful!

Gone are the days of wandering kerfs, and uncontrolled cuts in general.

Intricate cuts are possible with a little practice, much along the lines
of the 'magic' of a good file in the hands of a master.

I have two of them, my favorite is an older, essentially identical
version of this one...

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20918-4012/

The one piece die cast aluminum handle and frame end have good feel, are
surprisingly light, and easy to clean. The 'spine' is steel, and will
store spare blades... however, spares stored in the frame rattle and
seem a bit 'Mickey Mouse' in actual use.

I also have a Craftsman frame I've delegated to the car emergency tool
bag. While equally stiff, it's a little larger, heavier, and has a
rubber handle grip insert that looks good, but collects crud and is
difficult to clean. While only about 10 years old, this insert is
already showing age with cracks and the like. I haven't seen this frame
in the store in a while now.

One caution is to remember to relieve the blade tension when the frame
isn't in use.

Erik

OK
I didn't know I was supposed to relive the tension when not using it.
I know to lift in the cut when going back. What else should I know
about using a hacksaw?
Thanks
Karl

wrote:


OK
I didn't know I was supposed to relive the tension when not using it.
I know to lift in the cut when going back. What else should I know
about using a hacksaw?
Thanks
Karl

http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publ...to_hacksaw.pdf

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...26.html?page=2

http://homerepair.about.com/od/tools...se_hacksaw.htm

This link discusses a hacksaw and shows a coping saw. ;-)
http://home.howstuffworks.com/hacksaw.htm

This "author" says Hang Um HIGH! http://www.ehow.com/how_2134463_use-...n-hacksaw.html

This one has four very short paragraphs under hacksaw. Be sure to notice the last two
paragraphs; i.e. 3 tooth rule and new blade rule.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Hand%20Saws/saws.htm

Here a young kid (difficulty understanding him) actually SHOWS you how to use a cheap
Stanley hacksaw which he really praises. About 9/10 of the way through the video he says,
"Now don't be intimidated by this xxxxxxxx xxxx blade on a hacksaw...." I couldn't
understand the x's. http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1299740

Lastly, If you are a copper thief ( ;-) ) be sure to follow this guys example. He
discovered - in England - Where Else? - that power lines are made of *COPPER*
http://tinyurl.com/68wkqc It was a long url so I borrowed one of Tiny's.

Al

On Sun, 18 May 2008 02:30:53 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

"William Noble" wrote:

I recently bought myself a Starrett hacksaw frame - it is really very nice,
but I consider it a luxury, it's not a necessity

Like this one?
https://www.hardwareworld.com/K145-H...e-pRNHBFI.aspx

I need one for home since my other one is at work and I don't have a
metalworking bandsaw atm. Uncle's saw is 1.4 miles away and has free coffee
when I visit Probably time to buy him a band for it.

I bought a $1.99 HF hacksaw, complete with broken-blade frame.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40766
The short/broken blade frame is great for places you can't get a
standard frame into.

Then I picked up a pack of Starrett blades for it and I couldn't be
happier. A good blade outdoes a pretty ergo handle every time, IMHO.
Blades MAKE a hacksaw as far as I'm concerned. Once a guy learns how
to use a hacksaw properly (pressure on the cut stroke ONLY), blades
last considerably longer, become easier to use, and the hacksaw
becomes your friend. (Well, unless you have 25+ cuts to make in the
sun and it's 104F outside...)

If Mike's investing, a portable bandsaw would be a good one.

-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------

Keywords:
In article ns, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

I just went through this exercise. After considerable research, I ended
up get the Nicholson #80965. They are about $20 at Lowes. The frame is
good & solid, it's easy to get good tension on the blades, it has blade
storage, and can be set up as a stab saw (haven't tried that yet). The
rear grip fits my hand well and is very comfortable, and it has a rubber
coated gripping horn for your forward hand that is much more comfortable
than the older frames.

As for blade tension, it's hard to over tension a blade. They will last
longer & cut straighter when they are really good & tight.

Doug White

"Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
tension when the frame
isn't in use. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally does
not.

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
ns...
Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC


Yes on the newer high tension frames!
I cut about any thing with my hacksaw. I don't even own a bandsaw. I had a
friend bring over some 2" x 1/4 wall square tubing one day that he needed
cut. He figured I had a bandsaw. I said no problem, clamped it in the vise
and made the 3-4 cut offs he wanted. He could not believe I was going to use
good old man power to do it. After years of practice I bet I can cut off a
chunk of tubing straighter than most bandsaws!
Greg

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"William Noble" wrote:

I recently bought myself a Starrett hacksaw frame - it is really very
nice,
but I consider it a luxury, it's not a necessity

Like this one?
https://www.hardwareworld.com/K145-H...e-pRNHBFI.aspx

I need one for home since my other one is at work and I don't have a
metalworking bandsaw atm. Uncle's saw is 1.4 miles away and has free
coffee
when I visit Probably time to buy him a band for it.

Wes

Yes, that is the one, saw it at the Starrett booth at Westech, and then
ordered it a few months after - I really like it, but I can't say that it is
inherently better than something less expensive. The one down side is that
it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sun, 18 May 2008 09:30:59 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:



Getchertsef a package of Starret 32-tooth blades for that new home hack saw. Follow the 3 tooth
rule and limit your hack saw work to that which is easily done with 32-teeth blades. Leave the
heavy stuff for the band saw.

Bob (take it easy) Swinney

most things that are in the range of a 32-tooth blade can be cut far more
easily with tin snips or a shear :-)


Mark Rand (18 tpi and 14tpi in my frames)
RTFM

Al Patrick wrote:

http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publ...to_hacksaw.pdf


The link shows an older style of hacksaw, which has an undocumented
feature not generally seen on more modern designs, that I find useful
sometimes.
The front and rear blade holding pins can be set to several different
orientations, including 180 degrees from each other. This allows the
fitting of 2 or more blades at the same time, for wide cuts. The angled
pins, being parallel when set this way, hold all blades equally firmly.

Jordan

"William Noble" wrote {clip)The one down side is that
it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be, Bill, but do you ever use 10" blades? I don't even own any.

"William Noble" wrote:

Yes, that is the one, saw it at the Starrett booth at Westech, and then
ordered it a few months after - I really like it, but I can't say that it is
inherently better than something less expensive. The one down side is that
it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones

I haven't used a 10" blade in years. 12" seems like a normal stroke for my
arm. I'm 6 foot+.

I'll have to wait until next payday to order one though. Got a little crazy
last night ordering things. Those Mitutoyo IP65 mics are great.

Wes

Larry Jaques wrote:


Then I picked up a pack of Starrett blades for it and I couldn't be
happier. A good blade outdoes a pretty ergo handle every time, IMHO.
Blades MAKE a hacksaw as far as I'm concerned. Once a guy learns how
to use a hacksaw properly (pressure on the cut stroke ONLY), blades
last considerably longer, become easier to use, and the hacksaw
becomes your friend. (Well, unless you have 25+ cuts to make in the
sun and it's 104F outside...)

Hacksaws are a lot like files in that way.

I see McMaster has bimetal and positive rake bimetal. Each takes a strong
frame. I wonder which is better? I gave away my last blade at work to a
coworker. Time to order replacements.

104F Hell never hit 46F today. I was out in the garage shivering next to a
electric radiant heater putting a HF cutter grinder together. That is going
to take a bit of rework.

I have yet to sweat this year.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Leo Lichtman" wrote:


"Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
tension when the frame
isn't in use. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally does
not.


Leo, I had the same thoughts. I de-tension my ww bandsaw to protect the
tires. A hacksaw frame, if it can't stand the tension, it is junk, same for
the blade.

Wes

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"William Noble" wrote {clip)The one down side is that
it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be, Bill, but do you ever use 10" blades? I don't even own any.


well, I have about 6 boxes of 10 inch blades - some good brand too - maybe
even Starrett


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:07:06 GMT, Erik wrote:



I have two of them, my favorite is an older, essentially identical
version of this one...

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20918-4012/

The one piece die cast aluminum handle and frame end have good feel,

That's the best hacksaw I've found as well. Note the bulge in the hand
grip. I also own one of the Starretts mentioned elsewhere in this
thread. The handle on the Starrett is flat-sided and too thin for
comfort.

Lenox bi-metal blades are also far better than Starrett blades, though
they are relatively expensive.
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20117-224HE/

--
Ned Simmons

My hacksaw is adjustable for 4 different lengths.

What is the quality of the 10 inch ? and how much ?

I run 3 different hacksaws at the moment - different blades and one a carbide.
I even have a one hand / handle hacksaw.


Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


William Noble wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...
"William Noble" wrote {clip)The one down side is that
it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be, Bill, but do you ever use 10" blades? I don't even own any.


well, I have about 6 boxes of 10 inch blades - some good brand too - maybe
even Starrett


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

I bought a lenox high tension hacksaw and couldn't be happier with it.
Made the crappy 10" harbor freight blades ( that I have a handful of
and can't bring myself to toss) cut like buddah. OK, not buddah but a
damn sight better than they functioned in the usual cheap****
hacksaw. BTW the lenox is a 12" saw and I made a adapter that allowed
the smaller blades to fit and fully tension.The adapter was a piece of
steel with a hole drilled to fit on the blade post on one end and
another post to take up the shorter hacksaw mount hole. Took me longer
to think of the adapter than to make (that says a lot about my thought
processes- sigh). Pat

On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:13:26 -0400, Al Patrick wrote:


This link discusses a hacksaw and shows a coping saw. ;-)
http://home.howstuffworks.com/hacksaw.htm

If I were you I would totally ignore this link. The "Hacksaw" is NOT a
hacksaw! The coping saw section does not tell you to have the teeth
facing backwards as it should. Same goes for a Fretsaw and bent rod
type mini hacksaw IMHO.




--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
tension when the frame
isn't in use. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally
does not.


Actually, the reason dates back to the early wood-framed saws: in order to
keep the wood frame from distorting, de-tensioning the saw would eliminate
the reshaping of the frame.

The practice carried forward into the early metal-framed saws for the same
reason: to avoid putting a "bow" in the back of the frame and/or bending the
frame on an adjustable-length frame.

It's still a good practice for cheap saws - including such non-metalworking
items as Coping and Bow saws. g

On May 17, 9:51*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Same as with bandsaw blades, high tension on hacksaw blades serves to
keep them cutting straight. Everyone needs more than ONE hacksaw, I
just swap frames instead of playing around with swapping blades when I
need finer or coarser. Lenox makes both a decent blade and a decent
frame, there are other makes. Stanley makes one with an arched back
that fits in odd spaces, great for whacking leaky pipes under the
sink.

12" is my normal blade size, 10" have their uses, too, like where you
can't get a 12" frame in the space. Also fit some tool boxes better.
I've inherited a dozen or so frames, most are the old-style jobbies
that have notches on the back for adjusting for 10" or 12" blades.
Using one of those is downright painful after using one of the modern
ones. I can gang multiple blades on them, though, for cutting wide
slots.

Stan

On Sat, 17 May 2008 20:51:22 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

there is a hand hacksaw frame that was originally made by Sandvik but
is now cloned quite often.
it has a rectangular tubular back with a casting at both ends.
one a simple front part, the rear a handpiece with a blade tensioner
that screws up into the handgrip.

I have found the Sandvik type to be a significant improvement over the
older bent oval profile tube type.

Stealth Pilot

On May 18, 2:13 am, Al Patrick wrote:
wrote:

OK
I didn't know I was supposed to relive the tension when not using it.
I know to lift in the cut when going back. What else should I know
about using a hacksaw?
Thanks
Karl

http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publ...ols/how_to_hac...

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...274426.html?pa...

http://homerepair.about.com/od/tools...se_hacksaw.htm

This link discusses a hacksaw and shows a coping saw. ;-)http://home.howstuffworks.com/hacksaw.htm

This "author" says Hang Um HIGH! http://www.ehow.com/how_2134463_use-...n-hacksaw.html

This one has four very short paragraphs under hacksaw. Be sure to notice the last two
paragraphs; i.e. 3 tooth rule and new blade rule.http://sawdustmaking.com/Hand%20Saws/saws.htm

Here a young kid (difficulty understanding him) actually SHOWS you how to use a cheap
Stanley hacksaw which he really praises. About 9/10 of the way through the video he says,
"Now don't be intimidated by this xxxxxxxx xxxx blade on a hacksaw...." I couldn't
understand the x's. http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1299740

Lastly, If you are a copper thief ( ;-) ) be sure to follow this guys example. He
discovered - in England - Where Else? - that power lines are made of *COPPER*http://tinyurl.com/68wkqcIt was a long url so I borrowed one of Tiny's.

Al

Thanks for the info. Google wouldn't let me post on this link when I
tried in the past.
Karl

On May 18, 7:09*pm, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
"William Noble" wrote {clip)The one down side is that it will only work with 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of
the cheaper ones

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be, Bill, but do you ever use 10" blades? *I don't even own any..

I like the high tension frames and use them most all of the time.

I also keep at least one adjustable frame around as I use screw
slotting blades on occasion, and they only come in 8" lengths. Pretty
handy blades, and they save having to set up the mill for just a few
screws.

John Martin

John Martin wrote:

I also keep at least one adjustable frame around as I use screw
slotting blades on occasion, and they only come in 8" lengths. Pretty
handy blades, and they save having to set up the mill for just a few
screws.

I assume they have no set?

On May 23, 6:42*pm, Wes wrote:
John Martin wrote:
I also keep at least one adjustable frame around as I use screw
slotting blades on occasion, and they only come in 8" lengths. *Pretty
handy blades, and they save having to set up the mill for just a few
screws.

I assume they have no set?

No set, but ground with a slight taper - thickest at the cutting
edge. Four or more different thicknesses.

I don't see them in the latest Starrett catalog, so it looks as though
they may have been discontinued.

John Martin

On Fri, 23 May 2008 22:43:29 -0700 (PDT), with neither quill nor
qualm, John Martin quickly quoth:

On May 23, 6:42*pm, Wes wrote:
John Martin wrote:
I also keep at least one adjustable frame around as I use screw
slotting blades on occasion, and they only come in 8" lengths. *Pretty
handy blades, and they save having to set up the mill for just a few
screws.

I assume they have no set?

No set, but ground with a slight taper - thickest at the cutting
edge. Four or more different thicknesses.

I don't see them in the latest Starrett catalog, so it looks as though
they may have been discontinued.

Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

--

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

More times than I can count, I have saved the day by cutting a slot across a
stuck screw (usually a munged Phillips) and then backing it out with a plain
'ole screwdriver.

Vaughn

On Sat, 24 May 2008 04:33:30 -0700 in rec.crafts.metalworking, Larry Jaques wrote,
Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

How do you cut the heads?

On Sat, 24 May 2008 11:54:11 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Vaughn Simon" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

More times than I can count, I have saved the day by cutting a slot across a
stuck screw (usually a munged Phillips) and then backing it out with a plain
'ole screwdriver.

I suppose an emergency could warrant their use, but only then.

--

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Larry Jaques wrote:

Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

A firearm would look odd with your choices of screws.

Wes

On Sat, 24 May 2008 19:29:48 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

A firearm would look odd with your choices of screws.

Yeah, the heads would likely have to be slightly larger. But they
wouldn't take a $145 set of blade screwdrivers to work 'em, either.

--

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

On Sat, 24 May 2008 11:54:11 GMT, "Vaughn Simon"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

More times than I can count, I have saved the day by cutting a slot across a
stuck screw (usually a munged Phillips) and then backing it out with a plain
'ole screwdriver.

Vaughn

When I bought "lifetime guaranteed" screw drivers from Lee Valley, I
asked if the guarantee would apply to the Phillips ones since I would
never use them to drive screws, only to remove them.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Sun, 25 May 2008 17:14:02 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gerald Miller quickly quoth:

On Sat, 24 May 2008 11:54:11 GMT, "Vaughn Simon"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw.
I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it.
Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

More times than I can count, I have saved the day by cutting a slot across a
stuck screw (usually a munged Phillips) and then backing it out with a plain
'ole screwdriver.

Vaughn

When I bought "lifetime guaranteed" screw drivers from Lee Valley, I
asked if the guarantee would apply to the Phillips ones since I would
never use them to drive screws, only to remove them.

They'd have been confiscated by the CNSC ("Canadian Nuclear Safety
Commission" to us USAtians) Gerry, because you'd have given them a
very long half-life. That has to be dangerous, right? g

--

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I just answered my own question: House of Tools had a super-duper
high-tension-rubber-comfort handles frame for sale. I used it for the first
time today and the difference with a 18 tpi blade is remarkable. Where have
these things been all my life?

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
ns...
It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.

Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I
cannot make head or tail of some of the features.

Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC