Hello, all,

I have a Procunier model 15000 "CNC" tapping head. This is just
a set of clutches for 1:1 forward and 2:1 reverse, with no
overload clutch, leadscrew or other stuff. It depends on the
approximate sync between spindle RPM and quill feed to run the
tap in and out.

When I got it it acted strange, with the clutches grabbing
erratically, so I opened it up and found it FILLED with WD-40.
I figured that wasn't a good solution for cork clutches and
cleaned it out as best as I could. I was guessing that the
previous owner (yes, this was an eBay purchase) had a problem
with coolant getting into the works. It ran much better after
removing the WD-40, but I still had occasional grabbing
problems, like both clutches would engage at once and lock it
up, or it would start running real hot. I would find drops of
what appeared to be liquid water on the clutch material.

Anyway, when I tried to use in yesterday, it was solidly frozen.
I pulled it apart and it was MASSIVELY rusted inside! All
exposed steel except the gear teeth were covered with a thick
layer of rust! I scraped the black/grey rust off the cones the
clutch grips against, and removed some of the other rust in
non-critical areas, and lubed up the bearings at both ends of
the tap output shaft, and got the job done. I then disassembled
it and left it open, hoping that any remaining water would
dissipate.

I NEVER use this unit with coolant, only brush-applied Alum-Tap
tapping fluid, which has no water in it (napthenic oil and
Stoddart solvent, according to the label) and the unit has been
protected from any possible contamination with water when
stored. Where the HELL is this water coming from? The only
reservoir I can imagine is the clutch material, but that can't
hold a large amount of water, can it?

I'm thinking of baking the part with the clutch lining in an
oven for a day at 70 C or something to get the water out of
there. Anybody ever run into anything like this, or have any
suggestions about how to stop this nonsense? I don't think I
can find enough room inside to put a dessicant pack in there, or
I'd do that.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon, I don't know much about tapping heads, but I can tell you never
underestimate how much water cork can hold. We dissasembled a 70 year old
walk in cooler one spring and left it sit in our lot. All summer long water
ran out of it. We hauled it to the landfill that fall. By letting as much
water as possible drain out we probalbly saved a ton of money. Hopefully
someone here can give you the answer you need.
Good luck Lyndell

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Hello, all,

I have a Procunier model 15000 "CNC" tapping head. This is just a set of
clutches for 1:1 forward and 2:1 reverse, with no overload clutch,
leadscrew or other stuff. It depends on the
approximate sync between spindle RPM and quill feed to run the tap in and
out.

When I got it it acted strange, with the clutches grabbing erratically, so
I opened it up and found it FILLED with WD-40.
I figured that wasn't a good solution for cork clutches and cleaned it out
as best as I could. I was guessing that the previous owner (yes, this was
an eBay purchase) had a problem with coolant getting into the works. It
ran much better after removing the WD-40, but I still had occasional
grabbing problems, like both clutches would engage at once and lock it up,
or it would start running real hot. I would find drops of what appeared
to be liquid water on the clutch material.

Anyway, when I tried to use in yesterday, it was solidly frozen.
I pulled it apart and it was MASSIVELY rusted inside! All exposed steel
except the gear teeth were covered with a thick layer of rust! I scraped
the black/grey rust off the cones the clutch grips against, and removed
some of the other rust in non-critical areas, and lubed up the bearings at
both ends of the tap output shaft, and got the job done. I then
disassembled it and left it open, hoping that any remaining water would
dissipate.

I NEVER use this unit with coolant, only brush-applied Alum-Tap
tapping fluid, which has no water in it (napthenic oil and Stoddart
solvent, according to the label) and the unit has been protected from any
possible contamination with water when stored. Where the HELL is this
water coming from? The only reservoir I can imagine is the clutch
material, but that can't hold a large amount of water, can it?

I'm thinking of baking the part with the clutch lining in an oven for a
day at 70 C or something to get the water out of there. Anybody ever run
into anything like this, or have any suggestions about how to stop this
nonsense? I don't think I can find enough room inside to put a dessicant
pack in there, or I'd do that.

Thanks,

Jon

On Feb 26, 11:01*am, Jon Elson wrote:
Hello, all,

I have a Procunier model 15000 "CNC" tapping head. *This is just
a set of clutches for 1:1 forward and 2:1 reverse, with no
overload clutch, leadscrew or other stuff. *It depends on the
approximate sync between spindle RPM and quill feed to run the
tap in and out.

When I got it it acted strange, with the clutches grabbing
erratically, so I opened it up and found it FILLED with WD-40.
I figured that wasn't a good solution for cork clutches and
cleaned it out as best as I could. *I was guessing that the
previous owner (yes, this was an eBay purchase) had a problem
with coolant getting into the works. *It ran much better after
removing the WD-40, but I still had occasional grabbing
problems, like both clutches would engage at once and lock it
up, or it would start running real hot. *I would find drops of
what appeared to be liquid water on the clutch material.

Anyway, when I tried to use in yesterday, it was solidly frozen.
I pulled it apart and it was MASSIVELY rusted inside! *All
exposed steel except the gear teeth were covered with a thick
layer of rust! *I scraped the black/grey rust off the cones the
clutch grips against, and removed some of the other rust in
non-critical areas, and lubed up the bearings at both ends of
the tap output shaft, and got the job done. *I then disassembled
it and left it open, hoping that any remaining water would
dissipate.

I NEVER use this unit with coolant, only brush-applied Alum-Tap
tapping fluid, which has no water in it (napthenic oil and
Stoddart solvent, according to the label) and the unit has been
protected from any possible contamination with water when
stored. *Where the HELL is this water coming from? *The only
reservoir I can imagine is the clutch material, but that can't
hold a large amount of water, can it?

I'm thinking of baking the part with the clutch lining in an
oven for a day at 70 C or something to get the water out of
there. *Anybody ever run into anything like this, or have any
suggestions about how to stop this nonsense? *I don't think I
can find enough room inside to put a dessicant pack in there, or
I'd do that.

Thanks,

Jon

Got a bell jar and vacuum pump? A few days under good vacuum may dry
it out. Vacuum+dessicant would be even better.

Cork is porous, might be the previous owner added the WD40 to displace
the water, rather than for lubrication. Might be easier to replace
the cork than to dry the stuff out completely. I'd suggest a soak in
some alcohol except I wouldn't know what the cork was bonded with, you
might end up with loose bits instead of dry ones.

Stan

wrote:


Got a bell jar and vacuum pump? A few days under good vacuum may dry
it out. Vacuum+dessicant would be even better.

I think a week in the open air in wintry St. Louis will do
wonders to pull the water out.
Cork is porous, might be the previous owner added the WD40 to displace
the water, rather than for lubrication.
Oh, I am sure that is true.
Might be easier to replace
the cork than to dry the stuff out completely. I'd suggest a soak in
some alcohol except I wouldn't know what the cork was bonded with, you
might end up with loose bits instead of dry ones.
I'm also not sure the material really is cork. I kind of
remembered that, but it doesn't look like cork now, but more
like some synthetic stuff. But, maybe it is coated with steel
rubbed off the cones.

This thing is a double cone, so it could be very hard to replace
the friction material. I know Procunier sells repair parts, but
their collets are $82 each, or something, so I haven't even
considered asking what this will cost!

Jon

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
wrote:


Got a bell jar and vacuum pump? A few days under good vacuum may dry
it out. Vacuum+dessicant would be even better.

I think a week in the open air in wintry St. Louis will do wonders to pull
the water out.
Cork is porous, might be the previous owner added the WD40 to displace
the water, rather than for lubrication.
Oh, I am sure that is true.
Might be easier to replace
the cork than to dry the stuff out completely. I'd suggest a soak in
some alcohol except I wouldn't know what the cork was bonded with, you
might end up with loose bits instead of dry ones.
I'm also not sure the material really is cork. I kind of remembered that,
but it doesn't look like cork now, but more like some synthetic stuff.
But, maybe it is coated with steel rubbed off the cones.

This thing is a double cone, so it could be very hard to replace the
friction material. I know Procunier sells repair parts, but their collets
are $82 each, or something, so I haven't even considered asking what this
will cost!

Jon

As a young man I worked at a gunshop. Pretty regularly we would get a
firearm whose owner thought poking the spray tube of a can of WD40 in a hole
and pressing the valve was the same as cleaning and oiling. The actions
would be filled rusty jello. They should only sell that stuff to
professionals.

If, by odd chance, your clutch is the same as the one they use on a 2E, (1
1/16" thick, 2 5/8" dia, die cast hub w 1/2" bore) drop me a line.

I have a couple spares I snagged on ebay a fey years back.

Paul K. Dickman

The cork clutches are supposed to run dry?
I restored a 1912 Thomas Flyer that had a cork clutch in an oil bath.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

Paul K. Dickman wrote:

As a young man I worked at a gunshop. Pretty regularly we would get a
firearm whose owner thought poking the spray tube of a can of WD40 in a hole
and pressing the valve was the same as cleaning and oiling. The actions
would be filled rusty jello. They should only sell that stuff to
professionals.
Well, this rust problem only developed about 3 years AFTER I
removed all the WD-40! So, maybe I need to keep some WD-40 or
LPS-1 in it all the time. How to keep it off the clutches, I
have no idea.

If, by odd chance, your clutch is the same as the one they use on a 2E, (1
1/16" thick, 2 5/8" dia, die cast hub w 1/2" bore) drop me a line.

No, it is two cones, about 3/4" thick, about 1.25" diam at the
max, and the bore is threaded, maybe 3/8". But, thanks for the
offer.

Jon

Stupendous Man wrote:
The cork clutches are supposed to run dry? I restored a 1912 Thomas
Flyer that had a cork clutch in an oil bath.

I don't even know what a Thomas Flyer is, and I think these
clutches are not really cork, but some sort of synthetic.

Procunier says to only lube the gears very sparingly, to keep it
off the clutch.

Jon

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Stupendous Man wrote:
The cork clutches are supposed to run dry? I restored a 1912 Thomas Flyer
that had a cork clutch in an oil bath.

I don't even know what a Thomas Flyer is, and I think these clutches are
not really cork, but some sort of synthetic.

Procunier says to only lube the gears very sparingly, to keep it off the
clutch.

Jon
Hudson automobiles and many British motorcycles of the '50's used cork
clutches in an oil bath. I have recorked many Triumph clutches. So oily cork
does a useful coefficient of friction although it is lower than dry cork.

Don Young