Tried some 0.005 thick Teflon tape from McCarr. It got the slop down
to a reasonable level BUT the chatter did not go away. I can only
sumise that the Teflon is too "squishy" for the load that was put on
it. Just reporting what did not work for all's future reference

Gerry wrote:
Tried some 0.005 thick Teflon tape from McCarr. It got the slop down
to a reasonable level BUT the chatter did not go away. I can only
sumise that the Teflon is too "squishy" for the load that was put on
it. Just reporting what did not work for all's future reference

Hmm, I would think that the teflon, if I understand how you are
using it, would not really be able to squish out of the space.
You are putting it between the bearing insert and the bearing cap?

Jon

On Jan 12, 7:02 pm, Jon Elson wrote:
Gerry wrote:
Tried some 0.005 thick Teflon tape from McCarr. It got the slop down
to a reasonable level BUT the chatter did not go away. I can only
sumise that the Teflon is too "squishy" for the load that was put on
it. Just reporting what did not work for all's future reference

Hmm, I would think that the teflon, if I understand how you are
using it, would not really be able to squish out of the space.
You are putting it between the bearing insert and the bearing cap?

Jon

In the bearing between the bronze bearing and the shaft. Trying to
quick temporary fix a headstock bearing with 0,007 slop. A correct fix
is not possible at this time.

Gerry writes:

Trying to
quick temporary fix a headstock bearing with 0,007 slop.

Seems like the feeler gages from Walmart or the auto parts store go down to
0.001 or 00015. You try that for shimming.

Tried some 0.005 thick Teflon tape from McCarr. It got the slop down
to a reasonable level BUT the chatter did not go away. I can only
sumise that the Teflon is too "squishy" for the load that was put on
it. Just reporting what did not work for all's future reference

Hmm, I would think that the teflon, if I understand how you are
using it, would not really be able to squish out of the space.
You are putting it between the bearing insert and the bearing cap?

In the bearing between the bronze bearing and the shaft. Trying to
quick temporary fix a headstock bearing with 0,007 slop. A correct fix
is not possible at this time.


You can get aluminum duct tape in the plumbing section of Home Depot. It is
very thin and there are several thicknesses to choose from.

--
Dennis

Gerry wrote:
On Jan 12, 7:02 pm, Jon Elson wrote:

Gerry wrote:

Tried some 0.005 thick Teflon tape from McCarr. It got the slop down
to a reasonable level BUT the chatter did not go away. I can only
sumise that the Teflon is too "squishy" for the load that was put on
it. Just reporting what did not work for all's future reference

Hmm, I would think that the teflon, if I understand how you are
using it, would not really be able to squish out of the space.
You are putting it between the bearing insert and the bearing cap?

Jon


In the bearing between the bronze bearing and the shaft. Trying to
quick temporary fix a headstock bearing with 0,007 slop. A correct fix
is not possible at this time.

OK, its a big bronze piece, sounds much like the old Atlas.
I would suspect the teflon might get chewed up pretty quick from
the speed and loads placed on it. The Atlas used a bronze (or
maybe brass) insert with Babbit lining. If yours is also
babbited, you can try to repour it with babbit, or even use
solder. It won't take much. Then, you can scrape it down with
a scraping tool made out of an old triangular file with all the
file teeth sanded/ground off. You apply Prusian Blue oil paint
or Dykem "hi spot blue" (I prefer Canode water soluble dyes,
they wash off, but are a special-order item) to the journal,
assemble the bearing and then scrape a little material off where
the blue dye transfers. You can get the bearing down to about
zero clearance this way, then shim the cap with a couple layers
of aluminum foil. You need to retry the spindle alignment
checks to make sure you aren't forcing the spindle off-axis as
you work.

If the bearing is just sintered bronze, then you most likely
need to make new ones. Probably you won't be able to make
babbit metal stick to the oil-saturated bronze.

Note that if there is any front-back wear in the bearing, then
the lower part as well as the top is going to be worn, and both
need to be addressed.

Jon