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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Hello,
I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? I want to reuse the stem but don't want to ruin the headstock. I assumed that connection is threaded but weren't able to unscrew. What else could it be - there is significant force pulling stem out when you tighten the locking bolt. What could you suggest to detach the stem? Thanks, Archi |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Hello, I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? I want to reuse the stem but don't want to ruin the headstock. I assumed that connection is threaded but weren't able to Wow, nice pattern! Unintentional... Archi |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? Don't know how it's connected, but it could be cast in place? |
#4
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Jordan wrote:
Archi wrote: I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? Don't know how it's connected, but it could be cast in place? It's different metal. So did you mean that stem (provided it has some 'fins') had been placed into the mold and the possible used as the mandrel to machine the bottom of the headstock (for example)? Then it means that there are no ways to extract the stem w/o destroying the headstock By the way stem looks heat-hardened - doesn't it suggest it wasn't heated later even to the AL temperature? Thanks, Arcady |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Hello, I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? I want to reuse the stem but don't want to ruin the headstock. I assumed that connection is threaded but weren't able to unscrew. What else could it be - there is significant force pulling stem out when you tighten the locking bolt. What could you suggest to detach the stem? Thanks, Archi Archi: What part of the Unimat head stock are you calling the "stem"? I have my owner's manual here and once I figure out what part you are referring to I might be able to help. Jim Chandler |
#6
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Jim Chandler wrote:
Archi: What part of the Unimat head stock are you calling the "stem"? I have my owner's manual here and once I figure out what part you are referring to I might be able to help. The round one going down from the main casing - to be clamped to the base. This is the e-bay picture of it - http://cgi.ebay.com/365-Unimat-SL100...pho tohosting or here if long link would not survive - http://www.podzam.com/images/3d88_1.jpg Thank, Archi |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Jordan wrote: Archi wrote: I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? Don't know how it's connected, but it could be cast in place? It's different metal. So did you mean that stem (provided it has some 'fins') had been placed into the mold and the possible used as the mandrel to machine the bottom of the headstock (for example)? Then it means that there are no ways to extract the stem w/o destroying the headstock By the way stem looks heat-hardened - doesn't it suggest it wasn't heated later even to the AL temperature? Thanks, Arcady Things are sometimes made that way. My MZ motorcycle for example had an iron brake disc, but the centre of it is aluminium alloy - must be cast in. Here's a blow up from a DB200 parts list. It shows the stem as a separate part, and the method of holding it with a pin in a groove. Note that the SL has a different method of clamping the headstock/stem assembly to the bed, but it's likely the DB method is the same as on the SL, as regards the stem to headstock question. Worth checking? http://tinyurl.com/2pagpr |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
According to Archi :
Jim Chandler wrote: Archi: What part of the Unimat head stock are you calling the "stem"? I have my owner's manual here and once I figure out what part you are referring to I might be able to help. The round one going down from the main casing - to be clamped to the base. This is the e-bay picture of it - http://cgi.ebay.com/365-Unimat-SL100...pho tohosting Note that this is only one of the two styles of mounting pin for the Unimats which you mentioned in the subject line. The one shown is the one with the SL-1000. The DB-200 (based on what I have read and seen) had a different system. The pin has a tapered hole which is encounted by a tapered pin with a threaded straight section on the small end. It is installed/removed by the same metric Allen wrench, but the two are not interchangeable -- and the base into which the pin is placed is also sufficiently different so you can't interchange any of the headstock, the base, or the screw between the two styles. And I would be willing to accept that the pin (on the SL-1000 at least) was machined, probably with fins for gripping, heat treated, placed in a mould, and the headstock casting poured around it. I'm not really sure whether the headstock casting is Aluminum or Zamac (zinc casting alloy which pours at a lower temperature)). In any case -- instead of trying to extract it from the headstock, I would measure the part which extends from the headstock casting, and then machine my own replacement for it. That replacement could attach to whatever you want to use it on in whichever way is convenient for you. I would probably thread the hidden part. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Jim Chandler wrote: Archi: What part of the Unimat head stock are you calling the "stem"? I have my owner's manual here and once I figure out what part you are referring to I might be able to help. The round one going down from the main casing - to be clamped to the base. This is the e-bay picture of it - http://cgi.ebay.com/365-Unimat-SL100...pho tohosting or here if long link would not survive - http://www.podzam.com/images/3d88_1.jpg Thank, Archi O.k. I thought tht as what you were referring to but I wanted to be sure. The manual won't be of any help here but tomorrow when I get home from work I'll take a look at mine and see what i can come up with. I have to say that I have never thought of taking it off so I haven't looked too closely at it. I'll let you know what I come up with. Jim |
#10
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Jordan wrote:
Things are sometimes made that way. My MZ motorcycle for example had an iron brake disc, but the centre of it is aluminium alloy - must be cast in. Thanks. Looks like I am out of lack. Here's a blow up from a DB200 parts list. It shows the stem as a Actually I mislead you by the subj - mine is SL - with grooved pin and w/o hole. Looking on the pictures I got an idea that this part was common for both SL and DB. separate part, and the method of holding it with a pin in a groove. Note that the SL has a different method of clamping the headstock/stem assembly to the bed, but it's likely the DB method is the same as on the SL, as regards the stem to headstock question. Worth checking? I checked. It does not have any clamping pin. And looking at the entry point at the bottom and all this webbing around it - there is no space for any pins. Even thread is very questionable - no any traces of threading on the visible part of the stem as well as no traces of machining around the entry point in the casting. I think that suggested groove/fin and then molding as one piece is the case. Thanks, Arcady |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to Archi : Note that this is only one of the two styles of mounting pin for the Unimats which you mentioned in the subject line. The one shown is the one with the SL-1000. The DB-200 (based on what I have read and My wrong - I have SL, but got incorrect idea that this part has been shared among SL/DB. In any case -- instead of trying to extract it from the headstock, I would measure the part which extends from the headstock casting, and then machine my own replacement for it. That replacement Do not have a lathe It is 20 mm so I could use the drill rod (If I got lucky with it in this non metric country) but there still be question of groove (as well as good enough threading). Thanks, Archi PS Which model has been first - SL or DB? |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Jordan wrote: Things are sometimes made that way. My MZ motorcycle for example had an iron brake disc, but the centre of it is aluminium alloy - must be cast in. Thanks. Looks like I am out of lack. Here's a blow up from a DB200 parts list. It shows the stem as a Actually I mislead you by the subj - mine is SL - with grooved pin and w/o hole. Looking on the pictures I got an idea that this part was common for both SL and DB. separate part, and the method of holding it with a pin in a groove. Note that the SL has a different method of clamping the headstock/stem assembly to the bed, but it's likely the DB method is the same as on the SL, as regards the stem to headstock question. Worth checking? I checked. It does not have any clamping pin. And looking at the entry point at the bottom and all this webbing around it - there is no space for any pins. Even thread is very questionable - no any traces of threading on the visible part of the stem as well as no traces of machining around the entry point in the casting. I think that suggested groove/fin and then molding as one piece is the case. Thanks, Arcady I found a parts list for Unimat SL, and it indicates that the headstock and stem has only one part number for the combined unit. This may well mean the stem is cast in place. Curious: Why did you want to remove it? |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Which model has been first - SL or DB? DB came out first. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Jordan wrote:
Curious: Why did you want to remove it? Wanted to reuse it for some other type of headstock. But if it's not going out then I have to change my plans |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:51 GMT, Archi wrote:
Hello, I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - I wander how it is attached to the body of the headstock? I want to reuse the stem but don't want to ruin the headstock. I assumed that connection is threaded but weren't able to unscrew. What else could it be - there is significant force pulling stem out when you tighten the locking bolt. What could you suggest to detach the stem? Thanks, Archi Why don't you sign up on the Yahoo Unimat SL/DB group. A lot of good information there and a nice files section as well. Dave Foreman |
#16
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
David L. Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:51 GMT, Archi wrote: I have a question about the Unimat SL/DB headstock stem - Why don't you sign up on the Yahoo Unimat SL/DB group. A lot of good information there and a nice files section as well. Dave Foreman Sure thing, Dave! Where was my head - if there is something, then there is Yahoo group (possible more then one) about this something! Thanks, Arcady |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
Archi wrote:
Jordan wrote: Things are sometimes made that way. My MZ motorcycle for example had an iron brake disc, but the centre of it is aluminium alloy - must be cast in. Thanks. Looks like I am out of lack. Here's a blow up from a DB200 parts list. It shows the stem as a Actually I mislead you by the subj - mine is SL - with grooved pin and w/o hole. Looking on the pictures I got an idea that this part was common for both SL and DB. separate part, and the method of holding it with a pin in a groove. Note that the SL has a different method of clamping the headstock/stem assembly to the bed, but it's likely the DB method is the same as on the SL, as regards the stem to headstock question. Worth checking? I checked. It does not have any clamping pin. And looking at the entry point at the bottom and all this webbing around it - there is no space for any pins. Even thread is very questionable - no any traces of threading on the visible part of the stem as well as no traces of machining around the entry point in the casting. I think that suggested groove/fin and then molding as one piece is the case. Thanks, Arcady It wouyld appear that your question has been answered. I checked mine and came to the same conclusion. I agree with the person who suggested machining your own for the other application. good luck. Jim Chandler |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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unimat sl/db headstock stem
According to Archi :
DoN. Nichols wrote: According to Archi : Note that this is only one of the two styles of mounting pin for the Unimats which you mentioned in the subject line. The one shown is the one with the SL-1000. The DB-200 (based on what I have read and My wrong - I have SL, but got incorrect idea that this part has been shared among SL/DB. A lot of things were shared between them, but not all, such as the headstock/pin design, and the mating base. (And, presumably, the milling adapter.) In any case -- instead of trying to extract it from the headstock, I would measure the part which extends from the headstock casting, and then machine my own replacement for it. That replacement Do not have a lathe It is 20 mm so I could use the drill rod (If I got lucky with it in this non metric country) but there still be question of groove (as well as good enough threading). That does make things more difficult. Do you have friends with a lathe of sufficient size? BTW -- you could use inch drill rod say 1", or as small as 13/16" if you can find that -- and turn it to the needed diameter -- once you find a lathe to handle it. [ ... ] PS Which model has been first - SL or DB? The DB is first. And it needed the two-part arrangement of headstock and pin so the headstock could swivel (when loosened) in spite of the transverse screw through it. FWIW -- the SL-1000 is the easier to machine without production fixtures and jigs. That tapered transverse hole -- with threads perhaps in the base, or perhaps in the pin -- would be more difficult to make. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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