Awl--

I'm putting an "end" or a simple internal aluminum cap on 2.5 x 1.5 x 1/8
channel, with 1/4 or 5/16 thick alum, flush with the end of the channel,
with flat head screws, and thus don't have a lot of room at the edge, before
I break through.

It seems I will have to use 6-32 FH cap screws, and even then turn down the
head, from about .275 to proly .188.
Not really a problem but are there smaller-head cap screws made?

If I do turn them down, I would like the resulting fit in the alum channel
to be as nice as possible, which would mean an 82 deg c-sink, AND a bit of a
..188 cbore, as the edge of the screw head now has a bit of a cylinder to it.

Is there ready-made stuff to do this, or am I going to have to just grind a
..188 drill to 82 deg?

If I do have to grind these (since I cain't hardly see/grind ****), Harold
would you grind a batch for me, and I'll spread Seasons Greetings to all the
HD cashiers, on your behalf, around here in Yonkers?
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

As Randal says there are smaller flat head screws, but even if you chose to
use a #6 screw avoid the 6-32 thread. This is a tap buster as the pitch on
the thread is way too course for the diameter.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

"The Pre-Meltdown Kid" wrote in
message ...
Awl--

I'm putting an "end" or a simple internal aluminum cap on 2.5 x 1.5 x 1/8
channel, with 1/4 or 5/16 thick alum, flush with the end of the channel,
with flat head screws, and thus don't have a lot of room at the edge,
before
I break through.

It seems I will have to use 6-32 FH cap screws, and even then turn down
the
head, from about .275 to proly .188.
Not really a problem but are there smaller-head cap screws made?

If I do turn them down, I would like the resulting fit in the alum channel
to be as nice as possible, which would mean an 82 deg c-sink, AND a bit of
a
.188 cbore, as the edge of the screw head now has a bit of a cylinder to
it.

Is there ready-made stuff to do this, or am I going to have to just grind
a
.188 drill to 82 deg?

If I do have to grind these (since I cain't hardly see/grind ****), Harold
would you grind a batch for me, and I'll spread Seasons Greetings to all
the
HD cashiers, on your behalf, around here in Yonkers?
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...
As Randal says there are smaller flat head screws, but even if you chose
to
use a #6 screw avoid the 6-32 thread. This is a tap buster as the pitch
on
the thread is way too course for the diameter.

That's an inneresting point.
Mebbe I'll just turn down the head of an 8-32, then--might be able to squeak
by with .210, .220 on .250 mat'l, altho that's cutting it close. I much
prefer 8-32 anyway, as 6-32 is already small for the task.
I guess I'll have to grind 82 deg tips on a .218 drill.

Unless harold comes to the rescue.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs





--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

"The Pre-Meltdown Kid" wrote in
message ...
Awl--

I'm putting an "end" or a simple internal aluminum cap on 2.5 x 1.5 x 1/8
channel, with 1/4 or 5/16 thick alum, flush with the end of the channel,
with flat head screws, and thus don't have a lot of room at the edge,
before
I break through.

It seems I will have to use 6-32 FH cap screws, and even then turn down
the
head, from about .275 to proly .188.
Not really a problem but are there smaller-head cap screws made?

If I do turn them down, I would like the resulting fit in the alum
channel
to be as nice as possible, which would mean an 82 deg c-sink, AND a bit
of
a
.188 cbore, as the edge of the screw head now has a bit of a cylinder to
it.

Is there ready-made stuff to do this, or am I going to have to just grind
a
.188 drill to 82 deg?

If I do have to grind these (since I cain't hardly see/grind ****),
Harold
would you grind a batch for me, and I'll spread Seasons Greetings to all
the
HD cashiers, on your behalf, around here in Yonkers?
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to
reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

You are going the wrong way. Use a 4 or a 5. It you jump up to an 8 you
are compounding the head size problem and you are asking for trouble if your
drill walks on the end of the channel.

If you want to use a #6 screw use the fine thread.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"The Pre-Meltdown Kid" wrote in
message ...

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...
As Randal says there are smaller flat head screws, but even if you chose
to
use a #6 screw avoid the 6-32 thread. This is a tap buster as the pitch
on
the thread is way too course for the diameter.

That's an inneresting point.
Mebbe I'll just turn down the head of an 8-32, then--might be able to
squeak
by with .210, .220 on .250 mat'l, altho that's cutting it close. I much
prefer 8-32 anyway, as 6-32 is already small for the task.
I guess I'll have to grind 82 deg tips on a .218 drill.

Unless harold comes to the rescue.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs





--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the
solvent.

"The Pre-Meltdown Kid" wrote in
message ...
Awl--

I'm putting an "end" or a simple internal aluminum cap on 2.5 x 1.5 x
1/8
channel, with 1/4 or 5/16 thick alum, flush with the end of the
channel,
with flat head screws, and thus don't have a lot of room at the edge,
before
I break through.

It seems I will have to use 6-32 FH cap screws, and even then turn down
the
head, from about .275 to proly .188.
Not really a problem but are there smaller-head cap screws made?

If I do turn them down, I would like the resulting fit in the alum
channel
to be as nice as possible, which would mean an 82 deg c-sink, AND a bit
of
a
.188 cbore, as the edge of the screw head now has a bit of a cylinder
to
it.

Is there ready-made stuff to do this, or am I going to have to just
grind
a
.188 drill to 82 deg?

If I do have to grind these (since I cain't hardly see/grind ****),
Harold
would you grind a batch for me, and I'll spread Seasons Greetings to
all
the
HD cashiers, on your behalf, around here in Yonkers?
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

AND,
Make sure whomever you do vote for believes in
ABSOLUTE separation of Church & State--ferchrissakes

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to
reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...
You are going the wrong way. Use a 4 or a 5. It you jump up to an 8 you
are compounding the head size problem and you are asking for trouble if
your
drill walks on the end of the channel.

If you want to use a #6 screw use the fine thread.

--



I don't know what you are making, but perhaps you should consider a
fastening method other than screws for this purpose - MUST the end caps be
removable? if not, glue or a spot weld might be a superior solution - and
you can drill and pin as well with much less machining, and if you put the
pins at a slight angle, you can prevent the cap from pulling off, or if you
make them straight, you will be able to tap it off later if you must.
Locktite on the pins can make it quite permanent



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On 2007-12-24, The Pre-Meltdown Kid
wrote:

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

use a #6 screw avoid the 6-32 thread. This is a tap buster as the pitch
on the thread is way too course for the diameter.

That's an inneresting point.
Mebbe I'll just turn down the head of an 8-32, then--might be able to squeak
by with .210, .220 on .250 mat'l, altho that's cutting it close. I much
prefer 8-32 anyway, as 6-32 is already small for the task.

What is wrong with using more 4-40 screws? It is only 6-32
which is a problem -- the thread pitch is way too coarse for the
diameter of the screw shank. 4-40 is fine -- no problems.

And with a steeper angle on the head -- you can countersink
through the sidewall and into the edge of the plug. That will even get
your threads (the weakest part) out of the shear plane (buried into the
plug).

There are steeper countersinks, and matching screws available.
The 82 degree which you mention (and wider) are intended for thin sheet
metal, I believe -- where it is necessary for the countersink to end
before punching through the sheet metal. I would match drill the tubing
for 4-40 screw clearance, and the end plug for 4-40 tap drill (actually,
drill both to the tap drill size first (marking the orientation of the
plug in the tube end), then drill the tubing only out to body drill
size. Tap the plug, put in one or two 4-40 round-head screws in each
side to hold things lined up, and start countersinking each remaining
hole, and putting in the 4-40 countersink screws -- then remove each of
the round heads one at a time, counterink and install the proper screws.

I guess I'll have to grind 82 deg tips on a .218 drill.

Unless harold comes to the rescue.

I don't think that Harold is in a position to do any such work
at present.

His grinding days were either working for others in their shops,
or some in his own commercial shop when he was running that.

He closed that shop quite a while ago and sold off most of the
serious tools -- keeping his favorite lathe and mill (IIRC) for his home
shop. He then spent quite a few years running a different company --
doing precious metals recovery.

He and his wife are currently *living* in the shop which he
built in his new location, while he spends all of his time building the
house beside the shop.

So -- since they are living in the shop, he almost certainly
does not have the machines set up to run -- even if he had his grinding
equipment from all those years ago.

Once he finishes the house, and they move into it, then he will
have time to set up the shop as a shop again, and (perhaps) take on
paying work -- or perhaps simply enjoy his retirement.

But until that happens, don't hold your breath expecting him to
do the work for you.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---