Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

"B.B." u fired this
volley in news sjc.supernews.net:

Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about
color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.


Try an epoxy appliance enamel. Once fully (*air*) cured, it's almost
completely solvent resistant.

LLoyd

In article ,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"B.B." u fired this
volley in news sjc.supernews.net:

Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about
color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.


Try an epoxy appliance enamel. Once fully (*air*) cured, it's almost
completely solvent resistant.

LLoyd

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

B.B. wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.


Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. Water clear in color. Takes
7 days to cure and lasts a lifetime. Near impervious to most solvents
once cured.

Good luck

Jim Vrzal
Holiday, Fl.

Mawdeeb wrote:
Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. ...

That's "Pelucid" (sp):
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=PEL&dept=6

"It's super clear, super glossy, and unbelievably tough!". It should
be, for $15.50 per 1/2 pint (+S&H)! Or buy a gallon for $155 & save.

Bob

On Oct 3, 9:50 am, "B.B."
u wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net



How about some plain old fiberglass epoxy?

Dave

On 2007-10-04, wrote:
On Oct 3, 9:50 am, "B.B."
. ru wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.




How about some plain old fiberglass epoxy?


It will weather not so nicely due to UV, but it is the toughest
coating available. Adding UV inhibitor supposedly helps. I used it on
some wood and it is great for protecting wood that is outside all the
time.

i

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:02:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Mawdeeb quickly quoth:

B.B. wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.


Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. Water clear in color. Takes
7 days to cure and lasts a lifetime. Near impervious to most solvents
once cured.

Jim, how does this Pelucid product differ from other polyurinestains?
Oops, I meant "polyurethanes." At $42 a QUART...

--
Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when
they do it from religious conviction. - Blaise Pascal

"Ignoramus8571" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-04, wrote:
On Oct 3, 9:50 am, "B.B."
.ru wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.




How about some plain old fiberglass epoxy?


It will weather not so nicely due to UV, but it is the toughest
coating available. Adding UV inhibitor supposedly helps. I used it on
some wood and it is great for protecting wood that is outside all the
time.

There is a tendency towards overkill in these threads. d8-)

Two-part epoxy marine paints are probably the most readily available in
small quantities, and they do a good job. Clear laminating epoxy resins
would do OK if you don't leave the toolbox in the sun for long periods of
time. Two-part polyurethane paint for brushing has a slight edge in
resisting most chemicals, but not all. It's also expensive as hell, and you
can get caught up in the different properties of polyester polyurethanes
versus acrylic polyurethanes, which are slightly different in their chemical
resistance.

That's all overkill, anyway. Unless I was up for some research, I'd go to a
big paint store and find some marine-grade two-part epoxy. It doesn't brush
or cover very nicely. Depending on the instructions on the can, I've usually
used two coats on boats, with just enough time between coats for the first
to get rubbery but not hard. Time depends on the formulation. It's usually
6-12 hours or so, but it can be 24 hours.

Don't let one coat get hard before you put on another or you'll get a lousy
bond between layers. A nice thing about epoxy is that if your plywood is
starting to delaminate and you really slop the paint into the loose edges it
will restore them to better strength than they originally had. Thickness of
the layer doesn't matter; it cures like epoxy glue, rather than drying. The
same is true for the two-part polyurethane.

If you want overkill, contact the manufacturers. There's a list at this
site:

http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/sep02d.cfm

They may also suggest simpler, one-part paints that are made for chemical
resistance. There are such but they're very product-specific.

--
Ed Huntress

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Mawdeeb wrote:

Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. ...


That's "Pelucid" (sp):
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=PEL&dept=6

"It's super clear, super glossy, and unbelievably tough!". It should
be, for $15.50 per 1/2 pint (+S&H)! Or buy a gallon for $155 & save.

Bob

I always seem to forget the "e". While it is pricey, I rarely need more
than 8 ounces of the stuff and it is slightly heavyer than the
consistancy of water which helps it to soak into wood nicely.

Jim Vrzal
Holiday, Fl.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:02:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Mawdeeb quickly quoth:


B.B. wrote:

Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.


Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. Water clear in color. Takes
7 days to cure and lasts a lifetime. Near impervious to most solvents
once cured.


Jim, how does this Pelucid product differ from other polyurinestains?
Oops, I meant "polyurethanes." At $42 a QUART...

--
Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when
they do it from religious conviction. - Blaise Pascal

Chemically, I don't have a clue. I use it on replacement wood on boat
jobs. The backs of furniture and decking. Most expoxies will stick to
the wood but breaks down over time due to flexing from thermal and
physical vibration. This product soaks in nicely on wood because it is
slightly heavyier than water. I pre-drill any holes before the first
coat and I apply a second just to be sure I didn't miss a spot or edge.

The hard part is waiting for the full cure. Everybody is in a hurry and
boat owners are the worst. You tell them 10 days and they are bust my
chops by the 4th.

Most of the jobs I do are covered by the 8 ounce can and a little goes a
long way. Down side is once you open the can your commited time wise.
The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It
will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on
keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

Hope this helps

Jim Vrzal
Holiday, Fl.

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 10:16:24 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Mawdeeb quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Jim, how does this Pelucid product differ from other polyurinestains?
Oops, I meant "polyurethanes." At $42 a QUART...


Chemically, I don't have a clue. I use it on replacement wood on boat
jobs. The backs of furniture and decking. Most expoxies will stick to
the wood but breaks down over time due to flexing from thermal and
physical vibration. This product soaks in nicely on wood because it is
slightly heavyier than water.



I pre-drill any holes before the first
coat and I apply a second just to be sure I didn't miss a spot or edge.

So you pre-drill before you pre-coat the pre-sanded surfaces?
(I wonder, who came up with that term, "pre-drill", anyway?)


The hard part is waiting for the full cure. Everybody is in a hurry and
boat owners are the worst. You tell them 10 days and they are bust my
chops by the 4th.

I get the same thing with concrete and woodwork finishes. You can
spend twenty hours prepping but if you try to hurry a finish, it'll
screw things up horribly and you'll have to spend even more time
letting it cure before fixing it. then there's the open-air time to
let it breathe out all the solvents so it doesn't reek in the house
(or in your case, boat.)


Most of the jobs I do are covered by the 8 ounce can and a little goes a
long way. Down side is once you open the can your commited time wise.
The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It
will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on
keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

Ah, I was going to ask that question. I guy gallons of Waterlox and
have to put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, whatever's handy
at the time. I haven't tried argon from the TIG setup yet.) to keep it
from skinning or jelling on me. I wonder if your opened-can shelf life
would be extended, too, from following that procedure.

---
Every moment is a golden one
for him who has the vision to recognize it as such.
-- Henry Miller

Mawdeeb wrote:
...
The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It
will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on
keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

I bought some of the POR15 once. It has the same shelf life issue.
With nothing to lose, I put an opened can in the refrigerator and it was
usable 1 year later. Hardly a scientific study & YMMV, of course.

Bob

Larry Jaques wrote:
... put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, ...

How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few
times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot
of "O".

Bob

On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 08:50:00 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Bob
Engelhardt quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
... put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, ...

How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few
times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot
of "O".

Propane works quite well so far, but I only started using it once my
free can of Bloxygen was gone. I'm using Waterlox in quart wide-mouth
canning jars and it doesn't skin at all with propane on top. I lost a
couple inches the last time I didn't use it, where the finish turned
to a gelatinous form.

I wouldn't have even considered CO2 for the reason you mentioned, the
double Os.

--------------------------------------------
-- I'm in touch with my Inner Curmudgeon. --
============================================

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 08:50:00 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Bob
Engelhardt quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
... put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, ...

How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few
times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot
of "O".

Propane works quite well so far, but I only started using it once my
free can of Bloxygen was gone. I'm using Waterlox in quart wide-mouth
canning jars and it doesn't skin at all with propane on top. I lost a
couple inches the last time I didn't use it, where the finish turned
to a gelatinous form.

I wouldn't have even considered CO2 for the reason you mentioned, the
double Os.

The O2 in CO2 is harmless - the oxygen is otherwise occupied. The
better issue is that some kinds of plastic resin use CO2 itself to cure.
Like urethanes and some kinds of silicone rubber.

Argon ought to work, as will nitrogen. Carbon dioxide may work.
Cooling (as suggested in another post) will also help, and one can do
both.

I looked up the Bloxygen MSDS. It's nitrogen (60-100%), plus some
carbon dioxide (0.0001 to 20%) and some argon (0.0001 to 20%). I bet
it's all nitrogen, plus a varying amount of contaminant gases.

Joe Gwinn

I bet it is Air that the oxygen has been extracted from.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 08:50:00 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Bob
Engelhardt quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
... put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, ...
How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few
times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot
of "O".
Propane works quite well so far, but I only started using it once my
free can of Bloxygen was gone. I'm using Waterlox in quart wide-mouth
canning jars and it doesn't skin at all with propane on top. I lost a
couple inches the last time I didn't use it, where the finish turned
to a gelatinous form.

I wouldn't have even considered CO2 for the reason you mentioned, the
double Os.

The O2 in CO2 is harmless - the oxygen is otherwise occupied. The
better issue is that some kinds of plastic resin use CO2 itself to cure.
Like urethanes and some kinds of silicone rubber.

Argon ought to work, as will nitrogen. Carbon dioxide may work.
Cooling (as suggested in another post) will also help, and one can do
both.

I looked up the Bloxygen MSDS. It's nitrogen (60-100%), plus some
carbon dioxide (0.0001 to 20%) and some argon (0.0001 to 20%). I bet
it's all nitrogen, plus a varying amount of contaminant gases.

Joe Gwinn

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On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 10:16:24 GMT, Mawdeeb wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:02:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Mawdeeb quickly quoth:


Most of the jobs I do are covered by the 8 ounce can and a little goes a
long way. Down side is once you open the can your commited time wise.
The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It
will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on
keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

Hope this helps

Jim Vrzal
Holiday, Fl.

Flush and backfill the can with argon from the TIG.

I've had expensive automotive urethane clearcoats that "shelf out" in
7 days once opened be still good after more than 5 years in argon.

I think the POR stuff cures by exposure to moisture. Welding argon
is inert and extremely dry.

Don Foreman wrote:

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 10:16:24 GMT, Mawdeeb wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:02:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Mawdeeb quickly quoth:


Most of the jobs I do are covered by the 8 ounce can and a little goes a
long way. Down side is once you open the can your commited time wise.
The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It
will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on
keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

Hope this helps

Jim Vrzal
Holiday, Fl.


Flush and backfill the can with argon from the TIG.

I've had expensive automotive urethane clearcoats that "shelf out" in
7 days once opened be still good after more than 5 years in argon.

I think the POR stuff cures by exposure to moisture. Welding argon
is inert and extremely dry.



Golly, you guys would complicate getting laid to the point
that nobody would try...


A piece of plastic sheet cut an inch or so larger diameter than the
can. Lay it on top of the paint. It seals to the sides all by itself.

In article ,
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote:

I bet it [Bloxygen] is Air that the oxygen has been extracted from.

That's my take as well.

Joe Gwinn



Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 08:50:00 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Bob
Engelhardt quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
... put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, ...
How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few
times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot
of "O".
Propane works quite well so far, but I only started using it once my
free can of Bloxygen was gone. I'm using Waterlox in quart wide-mouth
canning jars and it doesn't skin at all with propane on top. I lost a
couple inches the last time I didn't use it, where the finish turned
to a gelatinous form.

I wouldn't have even considered CO2 for the reason you mentioned, the
double Os.

The O2 in CO2 is harmless - the oxygen is otherwise occupied. The
better issue is that some kinds of plastic resin use CO2 itself to cure.
Like urethanes and some kinds of silicone rubber.

Argon ought to work, as will nitrogen. Carbon dioxide may work.
Cooling (as suggested in another post) will also help, and one can do
both.

I looked up the Bloxygen MSDS. It's nitrogen (60-100%), plus some
carbon dioxide (0.0001 to 20%) and some argon (0.0001 to 20%). I bet
it's all nitrogen, plus a varying amount of contaminant gases.

Joe Gwinn

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