"Ignoramus8571" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-04, wrote:
On Oct 3, 9:50 am, "B.B."
.ru wrote:
Looking for something that's solvent resistant. The last stuff I
tried became pasty when diesel spilled on it. I don't care about color,
as long as it's light. Prefer rattle-can if I can get it, brush
otherwise.
This is for a cover over the top of my toolbox. The last chunk of
plywood started to come apart because the liquids began eating the glue
out of it.
How about some plain old fiberglass epoxy?
It will weather not so nicely due to UV, but it is the toughest
coating available. Adding UV inhibitor supposedly helps. I used it on
some wood and it is great for protecting wood that is outside all the
time.
There is a tendency towards overkill in these threads. d8-)
Two-part epoxy marine paints are probably the most readily available in
small quantities, and they do a good job. Clear laminating epoxy resins
would do OK if you don't leave the toolbox in the sun for long periods of
time. Two-part polyurethane paint for brushing has a slight edge in
resisting most chemicals, but not all. It's also expensive as hell, and you
can get caught up in the different properties of polyester polyurethanes
versus acrylic polyurethanes, which are slightly different in their chemical
resistance.
That's all overkill, anyway. Unless I was up for some research, I'd go to a
big paint store and find some marine-grade two-part epoxy. It doesn't brush
or cover very nicely. Depending on the instructions on the can, I've usually
used two coats on boats, with just enough time between coats for the first
to get rubbery but not hard. Time depends on the formulation. It's usually
6-12 hours or so, but it can be 24 hours.
Don't let one coat get hard before you put on another or you'll get a lousy
bond between layers. A nice thing about epoxy is that if your plywood is
starting to delaminate and you really slop the paint into the loose edges it
will restore them to better strength than they originally had. Thickness of
the layer doesn't matter; it cures like epoxy glue, rather than drying. The
same is true for the two-part polyurethane.
If you want overkill, contact the manufacturers. There's a list at this
site:
http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/sep02d.cfm
They may also suggest simpler, one-part paints that are made for chemical
resistance. There are such but they're very product-specific.
--
Ed Huntress