Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old September 13th 07, 06:46 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Mounting Aloris AXA on Grizzly G9972Z (CQ6128Ax660)

I finally got around to drilling and rethreading the toolpost base on
my lathe from whatever the metric thread was (wimpy) to a He-Man
9/16x18NF. Started out by clamping the base down, used the original
(wimpy) bolt to indicate off of (using my Blake Co-Ax) and centered it
to within a thousandth or two (didn't have to, but this is America!).
Not having a 33/64 (.515) on hand to drill, I used a 1/2 inch drill and
took care while threading.

Newsflash - The Starrett 93B tap wrench will NOT accept the shank
from a 9/16x18 tap. I left the base clamped down after drilling, put a
spring loaded tap guide in, and lowered the head to load the spring.
Then I used a Crescent wrench to put the moxie on the tap.

Tapped slowly, backing out every quarter turn or so, plenty of
tapping fluid. Came out nice, but I'd bet the Hanson Tap was H3 or so,
if I had this to do again, I'd want an H1 tap.

Unclamped it, cleaned it up, touched up the bur on a belt. Checked
the threads for grit, slid it in to the compound, tightened it in with
the two set screws, then screwed in the toolpost bolt. Put the AXA on
the bolt, tightened it down with the top nut, and dropped the toolholder
on the dovetail. Note: the toolholder is pretty much all the way to the
bottom, but it DOES align with the center of the workpiece...

I used a Redding tool to align the cutter to the center of the
workpiece, then locked the toolpost before running the jamnut down. It
cuts smoother than the original post, and it did a facing cut without
leaving a nub.

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