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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Taper questions...
Still doing thinking on my Gingery-esque lathe project-to-be... at the
moment I am wondering about tapers. http://www.motortoolmanufacturing.co...ications.shtml Says that I could bore maybe a MT#2 in the stock I have... but just what kind of minimum wall thickness am I looking at? I know Gingery originally bored a #1 in his 3/4" tailstock ram, and I think same for spindle as well. I've got stock up to 1 1/8" dia. (hehe, annealed torsion bar... maybe not the best for things that apparently should be soft, eh?) which could just barely fit a #3 with like...nil wall left... but how little is too little? Oh, and these are pretty precise things too... I have a 0-1" mic (aka "expensive C clamp") so I could maybe turn some stock to the proper taper and use that for the reference, but what kind of cheap and easy-to-get stuff has a more accurate reference? Speaking of which, I'm not going to want to build my own tailstock chuck...hehe... Tim -- "I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms |
#2
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Taper questions...
"Tim Williams" wrote in message ... Still doing thinking on my Gingery-esque lathe project-to-be... at the moment I am wondering about tapers. http://www.motortoolmanufacturing.co...ications.shtml Says that I could bore maybe a MT#2 in the stock I have... but just what kind of minimum wall thickness am I looking at? I know Gingery originally bored a #1 in his 3/4" tailstock ram, and I think same for spindle as well. I've got stock up to 1 1/8" dia. (hehe, annealed torsion bar... maybe not the best for things that apparently should be soft, eh?) which could just barely fit a #3 with like...nil wall left... but how little is too little? Oh, and these are pretty precise things too... I have a 0-1" mic (aka "expensive C clamp") so I could maybe turn some stock to the proper taper and use that for the reference, but what kind of cheap and easy-to-get stuff has a more accurate reference? Speaking of which, I'm not going to want to build my own tailstock chuck...hehe... Tim Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage. Something with no dings, and a good surface finish. Don't turn something to some ethereal diameter and taper, than bore the spindle, using it as a gage. You could end up with something that is totally worthless. Centers are hardened and ground, usually to the right angle, so would serve as a good gage for setting the angle that you bore. Careful bluing and checking could yield a very good angle if you have something that is right to begin with. . That's critical to a good outcome. I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter stock. It all depends on the size of the threaded spindle I assume you'll be making. Even that might be too large. A #3 is probably totally unreasonable. You don't want the threaded portion of your spindle to bend, do you? Harold |
#3
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Taper questions...
"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
... Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage. Something with no dings, and a good surface finish. Hmm... yikes! McMaster has 'em for $50 each... Don't turn something to some ethereal diameter and taper, than bore the spindle, using it as a gage. You could end up with something that is totally worthless. Yeah, I'll have a taper that works, and vaguely resembles a MT#2 or whatever, but will it work with any other? Probably not.. Centers are hardened and ground, usually to the right angle, so would serve as a good gage for setting the angle that you bore. ....Mount the Dremel on the toolpost?... ;-) Careful bluing and checking could yield a very good angle if you have something that is right to begin with. . That's critical to a good outcome. Yep, this is how Dave did it. I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter stock. It all depends on the size of the threaded spindle I assume you'll be making. Even that might be too large. A #3 is probably totally unreasonable. You don't want the threaded portion of your spindle to bend, do you? I was thinking of a 3/4" dia. spindle, but aside from drawing new cone pulley pattern plans (something that's on hold until the wood lathe can turn some stock, which is on hold while the basement is cleaned up. . .), yeah I could use the 1 or 1 1/8" stock. Mind you those will need cleaning up as the 1" bar is rusty and the 1 1/8" bar, well that might be okay but if it has to be mounted between centers, chances are I'll have to machine off some slop to get it concentric first. I'd have to redraw the pulley because the smallest step is 2" o.d. Come to think of it, I'll probably have to make a similar change in the headstock too, as the top surface is drawn at 1 1/2" wide... Tim -- "I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms |
#4
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Taper questions...
"Tim Williams" wrote in message ...
I was thinking of a 3/4" dia. spindle, but aside from drawing new cone pulley pattern plans (something that's on hold until the wood lathe can turn some stock, which is on hold while the basement is cleaned up. . .), yeah I could use the 1 or 1 1/8" stock. Mind you those will need cleaning up as the 1" bar is rusty and the 1 1/8" bar, well that might be okay but if it has to be mounted between centers, chances are I'll have to machine off some slop to get it concentric first. I'd have to redraw the pulley because the smallest step is 2" o.d. Come to think of it, I'll probably have to make a similar change in the headstock too, as the top surface is drawn at 1 1/2" wide... Tim, the smallest I'd go for a #1 taper would be 3/4"OD, my SB has a #2 and 1 1/8 OD ram in the tailstock. The Gingery machines will work, but being designed for home construction, they're minimal where ever it would mean not having to machine something. In design and construction, they're similar to machines made in the late 1800's. I assume from your comments that you made it to the airport? |
#5
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Taper questions...
"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message
m... Tim, the smallest I'd go for a #1 taper would be 3/4"OD, my SB has a #2 and 1 1/8 OD ram in the tailstock. Ok, thanks for the point of reference. The Gingery machines will work, but being designed for home construction, they're minimal where ever it would mean not having to machine something. In design and construction, they're similar to machines made in the late 1800's. Yup. I'm hoping to beef it up a bit, and while I'm at it, try to make a 10x24 or so. But I need a bigger furnace first so I can melt the 16 pounds of aluminum for the bed... I assume from your comments that you made it to the airport? Hmm... I should run by and pick that up some day.....LOL! Actually Glenn Lyford bought the entire series for me(!). Thanks again Glenn... Tim -- "I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms |
#6
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Taper questions...
"Tim Williams" wrote in message ...
Hmm... I should run by and pick that up some day.....LOL! Actually Glenn Lyford bought the entire series for me(!). Thanks again Glenn... Ok. Then I'll have someone bring them back and put them on the shelves again. I keep looking for someone that could use the things that I found interesting, but have no further need for. But, as long as you no longer have need for two copies of the whole series,,,,,, |
#7
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Taper questions...
Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage.
Hmm... yikes! McMaster has 'em for $50 each... Notice that's for carbide tipped, and $39 for high speed steel. You should shop around a bit, how does $2.45 sound? http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=251- 3062&PMPXNO=2606550&PARTPG=INLMK32 Of course, you don't get McMaster-Carr's famous next-day delivery that way, either. :^) I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter stock. Of course, another way to skin this cat is to use something with the taper already bored in it: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214- 8622&PMPXNO=2613662&PARTPG=INLMK32 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214- 8704&PMPXNO=945654&PARTPG=INLMK32 I think even Dave suggests this for the tailstock ram. And last but not least, consider reaming your rough-bored spindle: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891- 4730&PMPXNO=3904656&PARTPG=INLMK3 Later, --Glenn Lyford |
#8
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Taper questions...
"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
7... Notice that's for carbide tipped, and $39 for high speed steel. Still pretty chunky... You should shop around a bit, how does $2.45 sound? Fine with me http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=251- 3062&PMPXNO=2606550&PARTPG=INLMK32 Of course, you don't get McMaster-Carr's famous next-day delivery that way, either. :^) Meh, I'm too lazy to care about that anyway! Of course, another way to skin this cat is to use something with the taper already bored in it: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214- 8622&PMPXNO=2613662&PARTPG=INLMK32 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214- 8704&PMPXNO=945654&PARTPG=INLMK32 I think even Dave suggests this for the tailstock ram. Interesting, a positive and negative reference in one... And last but not least, consider reaming your rough-bored spindle: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891- 4730&PMPXNO=3904656&PARTPG=INLMK3 Could prove useful...I'll keep it all in mind! Tim -- "I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms |
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