Taper questions...
 

Still doing thinking on my Gingery-esque lathe project-to-be... at the
moment I am wondering about tapers.
http://www.motortoolmanufacturing.co...ications.shtml
Says that I could bore maybe a MT#2 in the stock I have... but just what
kind of minimum wall thickness am I looking at? I know Gingery originally
bored a #1 in his 3/4" tailstock ram, and I think same for spindle as well.
I've got stock up to 1 1/8" dia. (hehe, annealed torsion bar... maybe not
the best for things that apparently should be soft, eh?) which could just
barely fit a #3 with like...nil wall left... but how little is too little?

Oh, and these are pretty precise things too... I have a 0-1" mic (aka
"expensive C clamp") so I could maybe turn some stock to the proper taper
and use that for the reference, but what kind of cheap and easy-to-get stuff
has a more accurate reference? Speaking of which, I'm not going to want to
build my own tailstock chuck...hehe...

Tim

--
"I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting
and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

Taper questions...
 

"Tim Williams" wrote in message
...
Still doing thinking on my Gingery-esque lathe project-to-be... at the
moment I am wondering about tapers.
http://www.motortoolmanufacturing.co...ications.shtml
Says that I could bore maybe a MT#2 in the stock I have... but just what
kind of minimum wall thickness am I looking at? I know Gingery originally
bored a #1 in his 3/4" tailstock ram, and I think same for spindle as
well.
I've got stock up to 1 1/8" dia. (hehe, annealed torsion bar... maybe not
the best for things that apparently should be soft, eh?) which could just
barely fit a #3 with like...nil wall left... but how little is too little?

Oh, and these are pretty precise things too... I have a 0-1" mic (aka
"expensive C clamp") so I could maybe turn some stock to the proper taper
and use that for the reference, but what kind of cheap and easy-to-get
stuff
has a more accurate reference? Speaking of which, I'm not going to want
to
build my own tailstock chuck...hehe...

Tim

Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage. Something with
no dings, and a good surface finish. Don't turn something to some ethereal
diameter and taper, than bore the spindle, using it as a gage. You could
end up with something that is totally worthless. Centers are hardened and
ground, usually to the right angle, so would serve as a good gage for
setting the angle that you bore. Careful bluing and checking could yield a
very good angle if you have something that is right to begin with. .
That's critical to a good outcome.

I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter stock.
It all depends on the size of the threaded spindle I assume you'll be
making. Even that might be too large. A #3 is probably totally
unreasonable. You don't want the threaded portion of your spindle to
bend, do you?

Harold

Taper questions...
 

"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...
Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage.
Something with no dings, and a good surface finish.

Hmm... yikes! McMaster has 'em for $50 each...

Don't turn something to some ethereal
diameter and taper, than bore the spindle, using it as a gage.
You could end up with something that is totally worthless.

Yeah, I'll have a taper that works, and vaguely resembles a MT#2 or
whatever, but will it work with any other? Probably not.. ;)

Centers are hardened and ground, usually to the right angle,
so would serve as a good gage for setting the angle that you bore.

....Mount the Dremel on the toolpost?... ;-)

Careful bluing and checking could yield a
very good angle if you have something that is right to begin with. .
That's critical to a good outcome.

Yep, this is how Dave did it.

I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter
stock.
It all depends on the size of the threaded spindle I assume you'll be
making. Even that might be too large. A #3 is probably totally
unreasonable. You don't want the threaded portion of your spindle to
bend, do you?

I was thinking of a 3/4" dia. spindle, but aside from drawing new cone
pulley pattern plans (something that's on hold until the wood lathe can turn
some stock, which is on hold while the basement is cleaned up. . .), yeah I
could use the 1 or 1 1/8" stock. Mind you those will need cleaning up as
the 1" bar is rusty and the 1 1/8" bar, well that might be okay but if it
has to be mounted between centers, chances are I'll have to machine off some
slop to get it concentric first.

I'd have to redraw the pulley because the smallest step is 2" o.d. Come to
think of it, I'll probably have to make a similar change in the headstock
too, as the top surface is drawn at 1 1/2" wide...

Tim

--
"I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting
and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

Taper questions...
 

"Tim Williams" wrote in message ...

I was thinking of a 3/4" dia. spindle, but aside from drawing new cone
pulley pattern plans (something that's on hold until the wood lathe can turn
some stock, which is on hold while the basement is cleaned up. . .), yeah I
could use the 1 or 1 1/8" stock. Mind you those will need cleaning up as
the 1" bar is rusty and the 1 1/8" bar, well that might be okay but if it
has to be mounted between centers, chances are I'll have to machine off some
slop to get it concentric first.

I'd have to redraw the pulley because the smallest step is 2" o.d. Come to
think of it, I'll probably have to make a similar change in the headstock
too, as the top surface is drawn at 1 1/2" wide...

Tim, the smallest I'd go for a #1 taper would be 3/4"OD, my SB has a
#2 and 1 1/8 OD ram in the tailstock. The Gingery machines will work,
but being designed for home construction, they're minimal where ever
it would mean not having to machine something. In design and
construction, they're similar to machines made in the late 1800's.

I assume from your comments that you made it to the airport?

Taper questions...
 

"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message
m...
Tim, the smallest I'd go for a #1 taper would be 3/4"OD, my SB has a
#2 and 1 1/8 OD ram in the tailstock.

Ok, thanks for the point of reference.

The Gingery machines will work,
but being designed for home construction, they're minimal where ever
it would mean not having to machine something. In design and
construction, they're similar to machines made in the late 1800's.

Yup. I'm hoping to beef it up a bit, and while I'm at it, try to make a
10x24 or so. But I need a bigger furnace first so I can melt the 16 pounds
of aluminum for the bed...

I assume from your comments that you made it to the airport?

Hmm... I should run by and pick that up some day.....LOL! :o Actually Glenn
Lyford bought the entire series for me(!). Thanks again Glenn...

Tim

--
"I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting
and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

Taper questions...
 

Buy a dead center, or a live center, and use it as a gage.

Hmm... yikes! McMaster has 'em for $50 each...

Notice that's for carbide tipped, and $39 for high speed steel.
You should shop around a bit, how does $2.45 sound?
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=251-
3062&PMPXNO=2606550&PARTPG=INLMK32
Of course, you don't get McMaster-Carr's famous next-day delivery
that way, either. :^)

I'd suggest you stick with a #2 taper, no larger for that diameter
stock.

Of course, another way to skin this cat is to use something
with the taper already bored in it:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-
8622&PMPXNO=2613662&PARTPG=INLMK32
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-
8704&PMPXNO=945654&PARTPG=INLMK32
I think even Dave suggests this for the tailstock ram.

And last but not least, consider reaming your rough-bored spindle:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-
4730&PMPXNO=3904656&PARTPG=INLMK3

Later,
--Glenn Lyford

Taper questions...
 

"Tim Williams" wrote in message ...

Hmm... I should run by and pick that up some day.....LOL! :o Actually Glenn
Lyford bought the entire series for me(!). Thanks again Glenn...

Ok. Then I'll have someone bring them back and put them on the
shelves again. I keep looking for someone that could use the things
that I found interesting, but have no further need for. But, as long
as you no longer have need for two copies of the whole series,,,,,,

Taper questions...
 

"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
7...
Notice that's for carbide tipped, and $39 for high speed steel.

Still pretty chunky...

You should shop around a bit, how does $2.45 sound?

Fine with me :)

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=251-
3062&PMPXNO=2606550&PARTPG=INLMK32
Of course, you don't get McMaster-Carr's famous next-day delivery
that way, either. :^)

Meh, I'm too lazy to care about that anyway!

Of course, another way to skin this cat is to use something
with the taper already bored in it:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-
8622&PMPXNO=2613662&PARTPG=INLMK32
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-
8704&PMPXNO=945654&PARTPG=INLMK32
I think even Dave suggests this for the tailstock ram.

Interesting, a positive and negative reference in one...

And last but not least, consider reaming your rough-bored spindle:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-
4730&PMPXNO=3904656&PARTPG=INLMK3

Could prove useful...I'll keep it all in mind!

Tim

--
"I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --+ Metalcasting
and Games: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms