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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
Have you considered using a Hilti Gun? Might be cheaper, and sure would be
faster. I've used them to attach everything from sheet metal to 2" flooring on to heavy steel I-beams. One thing they definitely are is noisier! Ear plugs AND muffs if you are in a confined space. Bill "dave" wrote in message news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07... looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
Powder-actuated tooling would probably work, would be your fastest
means, if you're going against structural steel like I-beams. If it's non-structural, some of the construction adhesives might work, too. Or a combination, glue, then fasten/rivet. You can get pop rivets at least up into 1/4" size, I've got a tool to squeeze them, it's got handles at least 2' long. HF has them, where you'd get the rivets as cheap is another thing. See: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41291 I got mine to handle certain pop rivets on the van that hold accessory motors in place, had to drill them out to replace a motor. Works with the aluminum rivets, haven't had any steel ones to try out. Stan |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
dave wrote:
alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? Mine is going up to 6.4mm with steel rivets. Nick -- DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige Available now in USA / Canada http://www.yadro.de |
#5
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
I find that most self tapping screws, whilst being made of a substance
harder than diamond when you try to drill a broken one out, have heads that deform like butter with my screwdrivers. Could you not use some ordinary self tappers and then grind/drill/use the wrong kind of screwdriver on them? |
#6
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
Robin wrote:
... ordinary self tappers and then grind/drill/use the wrong kind of screwdriver on them? On this theme of incapacitating ordinary screws: use Phillips heads and put a dab of JB weld in the recess. Digging out the JB weld would be possible, but very time consuming. Bob PS - when I told Thunderbird to Send this, I had misspelled "Phillips" as "philips" and Thunderbird's suggested correction was "phi lips", whatever that means. Spell correction is not a strong point with T-B. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
Bill Marrs wrote:
Have you considered using a Hilti Gun? Might be cheaper, and sure would be faster. I've used them to attach everything from sheet metal to 2" flooring on to heavy steel I-beams. One thing they definitely are is noisier! Ear plugs AND muffs if you are in a confined space. Second the Hilti suggestion. Note that the plugs and muffs are only needed because you're nailing into steel, otherwise the guns are silenced a fair amount and you don't need them. My DX36M just makes a dull thump when nailing 2x plates into concrete. Pete C. Bill "dave" wrote in message news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07... looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
Toolie
The word you are looking for is possibly "frangible" head screws. Bob AZ |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? Except for the not wanting to drill part it sounds like a good use for "Drive Screws". It took me awhile to find them but McMaster Carr has them. Search for "Type U Drive Screws" and scroll to the bottom of the page. http://www.mcmaster.com You just drill a hole and tap them in. Best Regards, Keith Marshall "I'm not grown up enough to be so old!" "dave" wrote in message news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07... alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
There is a sloted security screw that can't be backed out. The driver
cams out of the slot on reverse. I think they are called anti reverse screws. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
dave wrote:
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? Break-off head screws certainly exist: they're in the RS Components catalogue (& doubtless others, too). Picture a round-head bolt, with a cone attached pointy-end to the centre of the round head. At the base of the cone is a hex. You put them in with a wrench, & snap the cone off from the roundhead part. Possibly not the best for you, though: looks like you'd have to drill & tap all those holes first (PITA...) |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
dave wrote:
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie Another possible way to get there is to use Robertson screws . Once installed you set a small piece of lead shot in the hole and tap it in with a hammer . I know some commercial installations are doing this . It is fast simple and cheap . Luck Ken Cutt |
#13
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"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
On Wed, 24 May 2006 16:29:56 -0700, Ken Cutt
wrote: dave wrote: looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that snap off after a certain torque is reached? alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly fine with me) alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available" new -or- used? thanks guys, toolie Another possible way to get there is to use Robertson screws . Once installed you set a small piece of lead shot in the hole and tap it in with a hammer . I know some commercial installations are doing this . It is fast simple and cheap . Luck Ken Cutt You can also use either Phillips or torx and hit them with a drill bit or countersink after installing. Heck with some of the Phillips I've used you probably wouldn't have to do anything extra -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
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