"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants
a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them
that snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have
TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT
their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be
perfectly fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

Have you considered using a Hilti Gun? Might be cheaper, and sure would be
faster. I've
used them to attach everything from sheet metal to 2" flooring on to heavy
steel I-beams.

One thing they definitely are is noisier! Ear plugs AND muffs if you are in
a confined space.

Bill

"dave" wrote in message
news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07...
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a
self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that
snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO
heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their
uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly
fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

Powder-actuated tooling would probably work, would be your fastest
means, if you're going against structural steel like I-beams. If it's
non-structural, some of the construction adhesives might work, too. Or
a combination, glue, then fasten/rivet.

You can get pop rivets at least up into 1/4" size, I've got a tool to
squeeze them, it's got handles at least 2' long. HF has them, where
you'd get the rivets as cheap is another thing. See:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41291

I got mine to handle certain pop rivets on the van that hold accessory
motors in place, had to drill them out to replace a motor. Works with
the aluminum rivets, haven't had any steel ones to try out.

Stan

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

dave wrote:

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

Mine is going up to 6.4mm with steel rivets.

Nick
--
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
Available now in USA / Canada
http://www.yadro.de

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

I find that most self tapping screws, whilst being made of a substance
harder than diamond when you try to drill a broken one out, have heads
that deform like butter with my screwdrivers. Could you not use some
ordinary self tappers and then grind/drill/use the wrong kind of
screwdriver on them?

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

Robin wrote:
...
ordinary self tappers and then grind/drill/use the wrong kind of
screwdriver on them?

On this theme of incapacitating ordinary screws: use Phillips heads and
put a dab of JB weld in the recess. Digging out the JB weld would be
possible, but very time consuming. Bob

PS - when I told Thunderbird to Send this, I had misspelled "Phillips"
as "philips" and Thunderbird's suggested correction was "phi lips",
whatever that means. Spell correction is not a strong point with T-B.

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

Bill Marrs wrote:

Have you considered using a Hilti Gun? Might be cheaper, and sure would be
faster. I've
used them to attach everything from sheet metal to 2" flooring on to heavy
steel I-beams.

One thing they definitely are is noisier! Ear plugs AND muffs if you are in
a confined space.

Second the Hilti suggestion. Note that the plugs and muffs are only
needed because you're nailing into steel, otherwise the guns are
silenced a fair amount and you don't need them. My DX36M just makes a
dull thump when nailing 2x plates into concrete.

Pete C.





Bill

"dave" wrote in message
news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07...
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a
self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that
snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO
heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their
uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly
fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

Toolie

The word you are looking for is possibly "frangible" head screws.

Bob AZ

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants a
self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them that
snap off after a certain torque is reached?

Except for the not wanting to drill part it sounds like a good use for
"Drive Screws". It took me awhile to find them but McMaster Carr has them.
Search for "Type U Drive Screws" and scroll to the bottom of the page.

http://www.mcmaster.com

You just drill a hole and tap them in.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"dave" wrote in message
news:wEFcg.72436$IZ2.2865@dukeread07...

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have TWO
heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT their
uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be perfectly
fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

There is a sloted security screw that can't be backed out. The driver
cams out of the slot on reverse. I think they are called anti reverse
screws.

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

dave wrote:
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants
a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them
that snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have
TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT
their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be
perfectly fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

Break-off head screws certainly exist: they're in the RS Components
catalogue (& doubtless others, too).
Picture a round-head bolt, with a cone attached pointy-end to the centre
of the round head. At the base of the cone is a hex. You put them in
with a wrench, & snap the cone off from the roundhead part.

Possibly not the best for you, though: looks like you'd have to drill &
tap all those holes first (PITA...)

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

dave wrote:
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants
a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them
that snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have
TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT
their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be
perfectly fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

Another possible way to get there is to use Robertson screws . Once
installed you set a small piece of lead shot in the hole and tap it in
with a hammer . I know some commercial installations are doing this . It
is fast simple and cheap . Luck
Ken Cutt

"auto-breakoff" head screws, or HUGE pop rivets?
 

On Wed, 24 May 2006 16:29:56 -0700, Ken Cutt
wrote:

dave wrote:
looking for a mechanical method to attach sheet metal to thick steel
without welding, drilling, or tapping. preferably leaving behind
tamper-proof (or 'nearly so') heads. what's a guy ask for when he wants
a self-drilling, self-threading machine bolts that have heads on them
that snap off after a certain torque is reached?

alternately, are there bolts made (just like above) except they'd have
TWO heads 'stacked' in an hourglass-like config, so that I'd have to CUT
their uppper heads off with my cutoff wheel, manually? (which'd be
perfectly fine with me)

alternately, what's the biggest diameter pop-rivet that can be 'manually
popped'? I mean like for which a tool that's "fairly readily available"
new -or- used?

thanks guys,

toolie

Another possible way to get there is to use Robertson screws . Once
installed you set a small piece of lead shot in the hole and tap it in
with a hammer . I know some commercial installations are doing this . It
is fast simple and cheap . Luck
Ken Cutt

You can also use either Phillips or torx and hit them with a
drill bit or countersink after installing. Heck with some of
the Phillips I've used you probably wouldn't have to do
anything extra :)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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