Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack

I usually cut and collapse the pipe myself, but first I suggest that you
take your question to the Small Engine Technical Forum he
http://www.perr.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2 You will get answers from people
who work on Briggs all day.

Vaughn

Jhock wrote:

Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack


Just a WAG, but since aluminum has a much larger coefficient of
expansion than steel, maybe you'd be better off heating the block around
the muffeler stub and trying to chill the steel parts with a shot of CO2
or something like that?

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
into it."

On Sat, 13 May 2006 23:53:07 GMT, Jhock
wrote:

Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack
FWIW

I had a brand new lawn mower with a B&S engine that I wanted to
install a mosquito fogger on. Needed to drill and tap the
exhaust pipe. Natural reaction is to unscrew muffler and take it
over to the drill press. No Go. Muffler/pipe would not come
out. Had to use a drill motor and tap in place.


Unka George
(George McDuffee)

There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy
which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations;
even a democrat like myself must admit this.

But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy,
for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch,"
but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.

Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.

On Sat, 13 May 2006 23:41:52 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sat, 13 May 2006 23:53:07 GMT, Jhock
wrote:

Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack
FWIW

I had a brand new lawn mower with a B&S engine that I wanted to
install a mosquito fogger on. Needed to drill and tap the
exhaust pipe. Natural reaction is to unscrew muffler and take it
over to the drill press. No Go. Muffler/pipe would not come
out. Had to use a drill motor and tap in place.


Last time I had this problem was on my brand new (to me) $2.00 lawn
mower with B&S engine, when the muffler fell off leaving about 1/4"
stub. I went in with a hack saw blade in 2 places and cut enough of a
groove to collapse the pipe. I used never-sieze on the replacement.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Jhock wrote:

Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help
with. I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block
engine, the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken
the engine down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway
and have been soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40
and then tried some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the
muffler stub red hot but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum
engine part. I have put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled,
hammered, etc and it will not budge. Have cut off the main part of
the muffler so there is about 1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to
carefully grind slots into it in about 4 places where it threads into
the engine after cutting it off flush, before I go to this extent does
anyone have any experience with this type of metal seizing. Sorry for
the long post.

Jack



Just a WAG, but since aluminum has a much larger coefficient of
expansion than steel, maybe you'd be better off heating the block around
the muffeler stub and trying to chill the steel parts with a shot of CO2
or something like that?

HTH,

Jeff


My technique:

Crank the engine and let it heat up. Then shut it off. Apply a birthday
cake candle to the junction of the muffler and block. Grab the muffler
or stub with pliers or a pipe wrench and spin it out. Works every time.

On Sat, 13 May 2006 23:53:07 GMT, Jhock wrote:

Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack

If you have a stick welder, run a bead around the stub as close to
the block as possible. Let cool and then unscrew with a pipe wrench.
The heat from the weld will cause the stub to shrink a bit.

-Carl

Carl Byrns wrote:
On Sat, 13 May 2006 23:53:07 GMT, Jhock wrote:


Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack


If you have a stick welder, run a bead around the stub as close to
the block as possible. Let cool and then unscrew with a pipe wrench.
The heat from the weld will cause the stub to shrink a bit.

-Carl


Thanks to all who responded. I have tried heating the stub with a
torch to no avail, might try the heat with torch, cool with Freon
(computer air blower upside down) also may try mig welding a nut on the
end to give a larger more reliable gripping surface, but will probably
go with carefully cutting so as to collapse the piece. Sure will use
neversieze on the new muffler.

Thanks all. Will post here what finally worked for me.
Jack

Vaughn Simon wrote:

I usually cut and collapse the pipe myself, but first I suggest that you
take your question to the Small Engine Technical Forum he
http://www.perr.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2 You will get answers from people
who work on Briggs all day.

Vaughn



Vaughn, thanks for the tip, went over there and posted also, looks like
my type of group.

Jack

Jhock wrote:
Since this is a metal working group, I have a problem I need help with.
I decided to put a new muffler on my 8 hp B&S aluminum block engine,
the old muffler will absolutely not come out. I have taken the engine
down to the basement as it needed some repainting anyway and have been
soaking the muffler joint with PB Blaster, Tefoil, WD 40 and then tried
some heat with the welding torch, enough to get the muffler stub red hot
but didn't want to do any damage to the aluminum engine part. I have
put a pipe wrench on the muffler and pulled, hammered, etc and it will
not budge. Have cut off the main part of the muffler so there is about
1 1/4 inch stub remaining. May have to carefully grind slots into it in
about 4 places where it threads into the engine after cutting it off
flush, before I go to this extent does anyone have any experience with
this type of metal seizing. Sorry for the long post.

Jack
Assuming the muffler is steel, you might (after stripping the block
down) use acid to dissolve the steel. Acid does not attack aluminium
(but alkali does).

Jhock wrote:

Thanks to all who responded. I have tried heating the stub with a
torch to no avail, might try the heat with torch, cool with Freon
(computer air blower upside down) also may try mig welding a nut on the
end to give a larger more reliable gripping surface, but will probably
go with carefully cutting so as to collapse the piece. Sure will use
neversieze on the new muffler.

Thanks all. Will post here what finally worked for me.
Jack

Careful with freon-type stuff around hot items.

Burnt freon can produce phosgene gas (of WW1 fame), I'd imagine
anything similar will at least produce some nasty chlorine compounds..

Dave`

wrote:
Jhock wrote:


Thanks to all who responded. I have tried heating the stub with a
torch to no avail, might try the heat with torch, cool with Freon
(computer air blower upside down) also may try mig welding a nut on the
end to give a larger more reliable gripping surface, but will probably
go with carefully cutting so as to collapse the piece. Sure will use
neversieze on the new muffler.

Thanks all. Will post here what finally worked for me.
Jack


Careful with freon-type stuff around hot items.

Burnt freon can produce phosgene gas (of WW1 fame), I'd imagine
anything similar will at least produce some nasty chlorine compounds..

Dave`


Thanks for the info Dave. I finally got the darn thing out today, I
used a combination of tips from the group. I cut off a large bolt and
put it in the stub and then welded around it, reheated the stub with a
torch and tried the wax on the hot joint while I was at it. Then while
it was hot I put a wrench on the bolt head and hammered on it to no
avail, then reheated the joint and put a pipewrench on the welded bolt
and hammered on it, and very gradually it began to move and finally came
out. Thanks again to all.

Jack