I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve

Steve wrote:
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

I'm pondering the same issue. If a die is used, how do you handle angled
cuts?

The super clean cuts are done with the guilitine cutter matched to the
specific shape of your material. Your only other choice is a friction
cut wheel. Get a plywood blade (200 teeth or whatever), install it to
run BACKWARDS in your Skill saw. Make up a guide from a piece of thin
plywood as a base and 3/4" board as a guide to lay across the roofing
material. Eye and ear protection is MANDATORY!!! Start the cut and push
it through FAST. Clean up the burr with an angle grinder and sanding
disk running 60 or 80 grit. Don't use a grinding disk, leaves a rough edge.

Steve wrote:
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve

Steve wrote:

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

I don't know how your roofing material looks like.

If that sheet is flat:
I have cut tin sheet with a circular (hand) saw. Just had carbide tips
with a negative rake on the blade.
If it is not flat, give it a try. You need a circular saw that does deep
enough cuts.


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
http://www.yadro.de

Steve wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

Thanks,

Steve

A plasma cutter would do a good job of it.

Pete C.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough
that I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to
the next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a
hand grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

The shops that form up the sheets from continuous roll stock use a flat
shear, and cut to length just before forming.

The shops that custom cut from pre-formed stock use a shear with a profile
matching the corregations. That's why those shops will never angle-cut a
sheet for you, whereas the fab shops can.

Most of the galvanized roofing suppliers will void the rust-out warrantee if
you use a saw to cut the sheets -- although most of the barn builders around
here to just that, with a diamond blade. The suppliers say that only a
"wiping" cut that tends to smear the galvanizing and pinch it shut at the
edge will preserve the rust resistance of the sheets. They'll cancel your
warrantee in a New York minute if they see a sheet that's been sawn.

LLoyd

The type of shear that's used on stove pipe ought to work. It cuts out a
narrow strip of metal. Since you don't have to lean or tilt the shear, the
cuts are clean and square. They are available in both hand and electric
versions.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough
that I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to
the next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a
hand grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve

The pole barn builders I have seen use the shear for the straight cuts and a
tip snips for the angled cuts. A saw causes a bur that is hard to get rid
of, a plasma cutter leaves a hardened edge that will wreck your snips if you
have to adjust a cut.
Steve

Pete C. wrote:
Steve wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but
enough that I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to
fit tightly to the next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well
and got similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using
a hand grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the
corrigations. The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated
squaring sheer and with our a die, I would get poor results due to
flattening by the sheer blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade
for my skil saw??

Thanks,

Steve
I used a regular general purpose carbide blade in 'skil' saw.
Ear plugs AND muffs!
Full face shield and hat -to-boots heavy duty rain gear.
The noise is unbelievable and hot, sharp metal sprays everywhere so protect
or remove bystanders.
This is an ugly job but this method works. Just bite the bullet and do it.
BTW don't expect to have much of a saw blade after this treatment.

Regards.
Ken.

--
Volunteer your idle computer time for cancer research
http//www.grid.org/download/gold/download.htm
Return address courtesy of Spammotel http://www.spammotel.com/

Most of the roofing material is painted over galvanized, plasma will
burn the paint.

Pete C. wrote:
Steve wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

Thanks,

Steve


A plasma cutter would do a good job of it.

Pete C.

I have used an airtool called a air nibbler, I have cut the 29 gauge
Galvalum 5v panels with ease with no distortion. My roofing panels are 26
guage but I have not cut this thickness with the nibblers. I think this
would be easy to follow the profile with this tool. The tool cost about
$30US and it will cut 16 gauge metal.

search for nibbler @ harborfreight.com

On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 07:27:57 -0700, Steve wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve

--
A7N8X-Deluxe, AMD XP2500+ (Un-locked)
2x256mb Crucial PC3200 DDR ram
Palit-Daytona Ti4200/64M AGP

You might try the guys at Dynamic Fastener- they supply the pole barn
building industry with tools.
They sell all kinds of blades for skill saws, air and electric nibblers
and shears, snips, and every kind of fastener, gasket, and accessory
for metal roofing and siding.

Its true that in industry, they basically dont cut the stuff- they
order it the right size. They use snips and nibblers to cut out notches
for vents and windows, but try not to cut full sheets.

I have used my motorised plasma torch, and it works fine, but it does
indeed leave a heat affected zone that is hard- so you have to cut it
once, the right size, or else snips will get damaged.

http://www.dynamicfastener.com/

If the method you use leaves bits of metal or abrasive (anything other
than a nibbler or shear) make sure you clean things completely so the
bits don't rust and discolor things, and so they don't get into the
joint and grind holes in the paint (it'll cause premature panel
failure- a rust hole.).

Dave

Steve wrote:
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage
roofing material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut
many to other lengths while adding a shop extention.
RoyJ wrote:
Your only other choice is a friction cut wheel. Get a plywood
blade (200 teeth or whatever), install it to run BACKWARDS in your
Skill saw.

BTDT and the blade gets hot and wobbles to beat heck in anywhere
from 1 foot to 3 feet of cut depending on the situation.

Pull the saw from the sheet and leave it running in mid air and as
soon as it cools it'll be straight again and dive into it again.

I thought about cutting slots into the saw blade but chickened out. :/

I wouldn't use a carbide tipped one even if you paid me, no need
when cheaper and safer ones can be had. Mine is still good enough
to make knife blades from, why I still had it to start with.

Since then, finally found one of the factory made blades for cutting
sheet metal, one of them that has -no- teeth, just slots to keep it
from wobbling when hot, but haven't used it yet.

Eye and ear protection is MANDATORY!!! Start the cut and push it
through FAST.

You'll do a better job with that stuff on, (if nothing else.

Clean up the burr with an angle grinder and sanding disk running
60 or 80 grit. Don't use a grinding disk, leaves a rough edge.

I use a knife then a file. shrug

Also I don't know nuthin about wet places or waranties but the
theory is... the zinc plated on the steel (anywhere that also
gets wet) will try to protect the -exposed iron- too.

Tin coatings do just the opposite, BTW.

"the little spot of iron is trying to protect the whole surface
of the tin by sacrificing itself" -metallurgy teacher

"all corrosion is electrical" -same dude

Alvin in AZ

Get a carbide steel cutting blade - I prefer Tenryu, Morse, or
DML. These chips are cool and the edge is burr free. They work
really well on angle iron and structural steel.

They can be run with a conventional circular saw, but there are
many special built saws that turn a bit slower and catch the
chips. Here is one:
http://www.glazingcodes.org/glazingincode/regulatingglass.html


______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage
roofing material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut
many to other lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges
and spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much,
but enough that I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also
unable to fit tightly to the next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as
well and got similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot
using a hand grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar
results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the
corrigations. The best I could afford would be a treddle
opportated squaring sheer and with our a die, I would get poor
results due to flattening by the sheer blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw
blade for my skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve

Pete C. wrote:
Steve wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

Thanks,

Steve


A plasma cutter would do a good job of it.

Pete C.

RoyJ wrote:

Most of the roofing material is painted over galvanized, plasma will
burn the paint.


At 26 gauge I would expect any decent plasma cutter to cut so fast that
it would hardly touch the paint past the immediate cut area. As an
example, my Hypertherm manual indicates 26 gauge recommended parameters
of 25A arc current and 353 IPM travel speed.

Pete C.

In article , Steve
wrote:

I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage roofing
material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges and
spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but enough that
I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also unable to fit tightly to the
next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as well and got
similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot using a hand
grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the corrigations.
The best I could afford would be a treddle opportated squaring sheer and
with our a die, I would get poor results due to flattening by the sheer
blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw blade for my
skil saw??

Metalcutting blade for thin stock in a circ saw. Here in Australia
they're commonly available, Makita sells one as do a number of other
companies.

Noisy and spew hot chips, but fast, a relatively clean cut and a lot
better than abrasive disks. You do tend to chip the carbide teeth if
you're not careful/lucky, but what the hell, it works.

Done it myself a lot so I speak from experience.

PDW

O
If that sheet is flat:
I have cut tin sheet with a circular (hand) saw. Just had carbide tips
with a negative rake on the blade.
If it is not flat, give it a try. You need a circular saw that does deep
enough cuts.


Nick


Wear a full face mask and long sleeves!!

Modat22 wrote:

Wear a full face mask and long sleeves!!

Fully ACK!
Didn't mention that.


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
http://www.yadro.de

Get a friction blade for your Skil saw. They are designed to cut sheet
metal with minimal distortion. The blade has no teeth, just some radial
slots to prevent heat buckling. They are very fast on sheet metal
panels.
Bugs

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good
condition) 26 gage roofing material. They are all
16ft long and I will need to cut many to other
lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause
distortion of the ridges and spreading of the
ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much, but
enough that I get a "fan-out" effect in the
width. Also unable to fit tightly to the next
upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated
electric sheer as well and got similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and
I can to a lot using a hand grinder.
Recipricating saw produces similar results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that
matches the corrigations. The best I could
afford would be a treddle opportated squaring
sheer and with our a die, I would get poor
results due to flattening by the sheer blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.?
Perhaps a saw blade for my skil saw??


This is what the professionals use
http://www.hitachi-powertools.com.au/tools/nibbler.htm