Get a carbide steel cutting blade - I prefer Tenryu, Morse, or
DML. These chips are cool and the edge is burr free. They work
really well on angle iron and structural steel.

They can be run with a conventional circular saw, but there are
many special built saws that turn a bit slower and catch the
chips. Here is one:
http://www.glazingcodes.org/glazingincode/regulatingglass.html


______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have about 250 sheets of used (in good condition) 26 gage
roofing material. They are all 16ft long and I will need to cut
many to other lengths while adding a shop extention.

I have tried tin snips and these cause distortion of the ridges
and spreading of the ridge pattern, hence sheet width. Not much,
but enough that I get a "fan-out" effect in the width. Also
unable to fit tightly to the next upper sheets.

I also tried cutting with an hand operated electric sheer as
well and got similar results.

Abrasive cut-off leaves a burr on the edges and I can to a lot
using a hand grinder. Recipricating saw produces similar
results.

I'm told the "pros" use a sheer with a die that matches the
corrigations. The best I could afford would be a treddle
opportated squaring sheer and with our a die, I would get poor
results due to flattening by the sheer blade.

Are there any other methods that I should try.? Perhaps a saw
blade for my skil saw??


Thanks,

Steve