Hi, all:

I would like to build a stained glass window using zinc Colonial came.
This came has a cross section like a double-headed arrow as illustrated
he

http://boyd.aluluei.com/came1.jpg

Where one came joins another at an angle, it's recommended that its end
be "notched" in order to accomodate the shape of the joint more
closely. In the early 20th century, artisans using this came (notably
Frank Lloyd Wright) notched the ends of their came with a cutting wheel
machine. The machine and a diagram of the joints and cuts is shown
he

http://boyd.aluluei.com/came2.jpg

This second image is copied from an excellent book on Prairie art glass
designs by Dennis Casey.

Since the device photographed in the image is no longer available, what
machine can I use to precisely cut these notches for a variety of
joining angles between 15 and 90 degrees? What machine should I obtain
to do this? (NB. This machine should not be confused with a frame
notcher, which is a punch that takes a small angular bite out of
U-shaped came for wrapping around corners)

I've heard that some stained glass workers use a modified key cutting
machine, but I have no idea what models of key cutters would be
amenable to the proper modifications. Are there any recommendations
out there along the line of this sort of solution?

Thanks!

On 24 Mar 2006 18:31:00 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi, all:

I would like to build a stained glass window using zinc Colonial came.
This came has a cross section like a double-headed arrow as illustrated
he

http://boyd.aluluei.com/came1.jpg

Where one came joins another at an angle, it's recommended that its end
be "notched" in order to accomodate the shape of the joint more
closely.

from dim recollection zinc, lead and aluminium are types of
hardwood.:-)

why couldnt you make the cuts on a bandsaw?

if putting metal through a woodworking bandsaw offends the
sensibilities then paint it brown and pretend it is a piece of
hardwood you are cutting. the saw wont know the difference.

it works. the good thing is that the blades get replaced with new
sharp ones a little more often. ...as you'd expect cutting hardwood
:-)
Stealth Pilot

According to :
Hi, all:

I would like to build a stained glass window using zinc Colonial came.
This came has a cross section like a double-headed arrow as illustrated
he

http://boyd.aluluei.com/came1.jpg

Where one came joins another at an angle, it's recommended that its end
be "notched" in order to accomodate the shape of the joint more
closely. In the early 20th century, artisans using this came (notably

[ ... ]

Since the device photographed in the image is no longer available, what
machine can I use to precisely cut these notches for a variety of
joining angles between 15 and 90 degrees? What machine should I obtain
to do this? (NB. This machine should not be confused with a frame
notcher, which is a punch that takes a small angular bite out of
U-shaped came for wrapping around corners)

I've heard that some stained glass workers use a modified key cutting
machine, but I have no idea what models of key cutters would be
amenable to the proper modifications. Are there any recommendations
out there along the line of this sort of solution?

I would think that just about any of them could be so modified.
They have a milling cutter which is specially shaped to duplicate the
nose of a feeler which reads the original key. And they have a brush on
the other end of the spindle, which is used to deburr the just cut key.

What you will probably need to do is to make a platform on which
to slide the "came" (a word which I just learned from you today), with a
sliding fence to hold it upright, and some sort of protractor head to
hold it at the proper angle (assuming that you can't judge the angles by
eye, which you may well be able to do.

I picked up a nice key cutting machine at a hamfest several
years ago, and later acquired a couple of incomplete ones from a friend
who was disposing of his father's estate. His father used to be a
locksmith.

So -- what I would suggest that you do is to go to the older
locksmith shops, and ask if anyone has an old retired key duplicator,
perhaps missing parts such as the key chucks, since all you need is the
motor, the spindle and the cutting wheel. Explain to him what you need
it for (perhaps even bring along a short example of your "came", and
tell him that it is fine with you if he removes all parts which are not
needed for your purposes (in case he feels uncomfortable relasing the
key duplicator to someone who is not a licensed locksmith -- some locales
have rather restrictive laws.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks to both of you, SP and DoN!

The bandsaw idea might work if I could find a saw with an appropriately
angular shape to its blade. And I'd have to find some means of
securing the piece at a vertical angle from the stage to mimic
off-90-degree joining angles.

I'm more inclined towards the key cutter idea, but I confess to knowing
little about the machines. I'll take up your idea on prowling old
locksmith shops and forums - perhaps I can find an old machine on eBay
to acquire cheaply to experiment with before investing in a better
machine for regular production.

Thanks once again!

-Boyd