i posted some time ago about the fuse being gone
in a used pressure cooker. turns out that this
model is not supported by anyone that i have found
on the web or in the DFW area.

well, as a cheapskate and ex-Marine, i decided to try
something. soldering a "plug" would be the way to
go, and i have an iron that could do it. otherwise
a torch would have to do. the cooker is aluminum,
but you can unscrew the housing for the fuse and
repair it w/o melting the cooker.

what i did, just as a test of the gasket,
was to "tape" over the blown fuse w/some 3-M al
tape meant for a/c ductwork. it worked, it worked
so well that i am eating the beans for supper(!).

of course, this is NOT something i recommend, to
ANYONE. but still, interesting, imho. --Loren

...............
ps. there was concern about the adhesive, and i
saw it, but very local to the edges of the tape. it
does not appear to have migrated any farther. if so,
it does not seem to have hurt the flavor. grin

I let one of my PC run out of water, resulting in blowing out the
fuse. There is an appliance parts store in Deep Ellum in Dallas which
usually stocked them, but they were out of stock at the time. They
order them in lots of 100 or some large number and had finally used up
their supply. Several months later, the reorder arrived and I got one
for $6. They formerly had Saturday hours, but now are open only on
weekdays.
Pearsol Appliance Company - 214-939-0930

On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 05:27:02 GMT, "Loren A. Coe"
wrote:

i posted some time ago about the fuse being gone
in a used pressure cooker. turns out that this
model is not supported by anyone that i have found
on the web or in the DFW area.

well, as a cheapskate and ex-Marine, i decided to try
something. soldering a "plug" would be the way to
go, and i have an iron that could do it. otherwise
a torch would have to do. the cooker is aluminum,
but you can unscrew the housing for the fuse and
repair it w/o melting the cooker.

what i did, just as a test of the gasket,
was to "tape" over the blown fuse w/some 3-M al
tape meant for a/c ductwork. it worked, it worked
so well that i am eating the beans for supper(!).

of course, this is NOT something i recommend, to
ANYONE. but still, interesting, imho. --Loren

..............
ps. there was concern about the adhesive, and i
saw it, but very local to the edges of the tape. it
does not appear to have migrated any farther. if so,
it does not seem to have hurt the flavor. grin

"Loren A. Coe" wrote in message news:GUgZb.348867$I06.3719408@attbi_s01...
i posted some time ago about the fuse being gone
in a used pressure cooker. turns out that this
model is not supported by anyone that i have found
on the web or in the DFW area.

well, as a cheapskate and ex-Marine, i decided to try
something. soldering a "plug" would be the way to
go, and i have an iron that could do it. otherwise
a torch would have to do. the cooker is aluminum,
but you can unscrew the housing for the fuse and
repair it w/o melting the cooker.

what i did, just as a test of the gasket,
was to "tape" over the blown fuse w/some 3-M al
tape meant for a/c ductwork. it worked, it worked
so well that i am eating the beans for supper(!).

of course, this is NOT something i recommend, to
ANYONE. but still, interesting, imho. --Loren

..............
ps. there was concern about the adhesive, and i
saw it, but very local to the edges of the tape. it
does not appear to have migrated any farther. if so,
it does not seem to have hurt the flavor. grin

Since the fusible part of the plugs is the same material, no matter
what the model is, you should be able to find a fusible plug from a
current model and retap for the new plug. Usually if the plugs aren't
available for a particular model, you can't get new gaskets and it's
time to go grab another from the thrift store.

Stan

The fuse is a safety device. PC are cheap enough not risk burning someone when
it overpressures and explodes

GMasterman wrote:
The fuse is a safety device. PC are cheap enough not risk burning someone when
it overpressures and explodes

agreed, it's just me in the house. i absolutely would not use it otherwise, not
sure i would use a new one w/children about.

wrt the fuse itself, the cooker is "Indian". it looks like the photos of an older
Mirro could possibly fit, but it is out of stock at Mirro and no longer manufactured.

third party replacements are $10.75, dunno if these are orig.Mirro units or what, but
the cost is goofy. there are a zillion different fuses out there, and the fitting is
not standard, nor is the media. plastic is the norm now.

just fyi for those interested, i can see why the link was blown. this cooker uses
way too much water, 4-5x what a late model Presto uses, and it is _smaller_, 2.5qt
vs 4liter. the weight and nozzle seem to be undamaged, but maybe it just takes some
experience in setting the flame. the steam comes out in a steady stream, nearly
silently. not a good design. again, NOT recommending this activity. --Loren

ps. the gasket on this older (heavy duty) pan still works fine, makes me wonder
just how good plastics have gotten over the decades & why did the shuttle
fuel tank gaskets fail? they talk now about wire insulation in airplanes,
getting older and cracking (like this is normal). the teflon coated wire
used in the 60's would _not_ have this problem.

As I remember, my Mom's old pressure cooker had just an open tube on top that
served as a safety when a calibrated weight was set on top. As pressure biult
uo, the weight, which sorta looked like a solid metal jigger, would lift and
vent the excess steam. Bet it would not build more than a pound or two

"GMasterman" wrote in message
...
As I remember, my Mom's old pressure cooker had just an open tube on top
that
served as a safety when a calibrated weight was set on top. As pressure
biult
uo, the weight, which sorta looked like a solid metal jigger, would lift
and
vent the excess steam. Bet it would not build more than a pound or two

On my Presto 4 qt pc the 'jigger' serves as a crude pressure regulator.
IIRC the standard operating pressure is about 15 psi that raises the boiling
point of water to about 250 degF. More sophisticated cookers will allow you
to choose several operating pressures(i.g. 8,10 psi). My cooker has a 'blow
out' rubber assembly on the lid in case things go bad. I have two of these
cookers and use one of them nearly every day for fat-free cooking of my
meat and taters.

Larry

GMasterman wrote:
As I remember, my Mom's old pressure cooker had just an open tube on top that
served as a safety when a calibrated weight was set on top. As pressure biult
uo, the weight, which sorta looked like a solid metal jigger, would lift and
vent the excess steam. Bet it would not build more than a pound or two

the main vent is the same on the two i have, but the smaller unit used much
more water. the larger Presto develops 15lbs, it's marked on the weight and
you do _NOT_ want to just remove it while under pressuer, the contents foam
and it very quickly deposits it onto your stove hood or ceiling.

closer inspection today reveals a small nick on one of the mating surfaces
of the pressure regulator. also, the pressure stem is somewhat loose, while
it was not before applying heat. there is possibly a missing gasket/washer
which a little rtv should correct. i will ream the surfaces and try it
again. fun and games of the intellectually challenged with too much time
on hand... --Loren

GMasterman wrote:
As I remember, my Mom's old pressure cooker had just an open tube on top that
served as a safety when a calibrated weight was set on top. As pressure biult
uo, the weight, which sorta looked like a solid metal jigger, would lift and
vent the excess steam. Bet it would not build more than a pound or two
how mutch pressure are they supposed to hold?

1 atmosphere?

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 00:27:09 GMT, "Loren A. Coe"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

the main vent is the same on the two i have, but the smaller unit used much
more water. the larger Presto develops 15lbs, it's marked on the weight and
you do _NOT_ want to just remove it while under pressuer, the contents foam
and it very quickly deposits it onto your stove hood or ceiling.

Aaahhh yes! Never do this when cooking beetroot......
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