Our Rockwell 20" bandsaw has rubber "tires" on each wheel. The wheels
are cast aluminum with a central V shaped groove. The tires have
hardened over the years and are now just fragments.

Does anyone know of a source for such parts?

Is it dangerous to run the saw without them?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

The best solution I have found is strips of silicone rubber contact cemented
onto the wheels.

"David Utidjian" wrote in message
...
Our Rockwell 20" bandsaw has rubber "tires" on each wheel. The wheels are
cast aluminum with a central V shaped groove. The tires have hardened over
the years and are now just fragments.

Does anyone know of a source for such parts?

Is it dangerous to run the saw without them?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

I had my Walker Turner bandsaw wheels re-tired at Woodworker's Tool Works in
Wisconsin. Their number used to be 800-475-9991. They did a real good job for me
back in 1997.

GWE

Tom Gardner wrote:
The best solution I have found is strips of silicone rubber contact cemented
onto the wheels.

"David Utidjian" wrote in message
...

Our Rockwell 20" bandsaw has rubber "tires" on each wheel. The wheels are
cast aluminum with a central V shaped groove. The tires have hardened over
the years and are now just fragments.

Does anyone know of a source for such parts?

Is it dangerous to run the saw without them?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 19:26:15 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

The best solution I have found is strips of silicone rubber contact cemented
onto the wheels.

"David Utidjian" wrote in message
...
Our Rockwell 20" bandsaw has rubber "tires" on each wheel. The wheels are
cast aluminum with a central V shaped groove. The tires have hardened over
the years and are now just fragments.

Does anyone know of a source for such parts?

Is it dangerous to run the saw without them?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

Can't speak to the safety issue but Suffolk Machinery lists 20" tires
he
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/band_saw_tires.asp

I have no personal experience with their tires but from what I
understand they're good quality and Suffolk is also good about custom
jobs if their off-the-shelf stuff isnt suitable.

Contact Info:
Suffolk Machinery, Corp.
12 Waverly Avenue
Patchogue, NY 11772-1902


Phone: (800) 234-7297
Local: (631) 289-7153
Fax: (631) 289-7156


E-Mail:

LP,

Thanks. I will call them on Monday.

-DU-...etc...

John Martin wrote:
David Utidjian wrote:

Our Rockwell 20" bandsaw has rubber "tires" on each wheel. The wheels
are cast aluminum with a central V shaped groove. The tires have
hardened over the years and are now just fragments.

Does anyone know of a source for such parts?

Is it dangerous to run the saw without them?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...


There are dozens of sources for new tires. Carter Products, Iturra
Design and Delta (Rockwell) are just a few.

That was just it. I looked at about a half dozen of the first hits I got
with a google search and could not find exactly what I wanted. This a
rather old Rockwell and I didn't find Delta's site to be very helpful.

Running without tires probably wouldn't hurt the blades, but you'd sure
tear up the wheels. Also, wheels that take tires are designed to have
the tires crowned - which is what keeps the blade from running off.

Yeah the wheels are already showing wear. The saw is offline for now. It
also needs a new blade of which I have several in stock.

Looking at the profile of the old tires it does appear that it was crowned.

I have never welded a bandsaw blade before (I have the manual). Would
you recommend welding or silver brazing?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

David Utidjian wrote:
John Martin wrote:
David Utidjian wrote:



I have never welded a bandsaw blade before (I have the manual). Would
you recommend welding or silver brazing?

Thanks.

-DU-...etc...

There are three instances in which you'll want to join a bandsaw blade:
1. when making up a new blade from roll stock
2. when repairing a broken blade
3. when cutting and joining a blade to cut an inside shape

For #1, get your blades welded to length by the manufacturer or
distributor. They will do a much better job than you will.

For #2, this doesn't happen all that often. Usually, by the time a
blade breaks it's pretty well worn. But you can repair by either
welding or silver soldering/brazing. Welding is probably stronger, and
doesn't require overlap scarfing, but it is usually done with
specialized bandsaw welding equipment - not your basic home welding
setup. For occasional breaks, I'd save up a few blades and then have
them re-welded at a bandsaw shop.

#3 is the real reason to want this capability yourself. If this is
something you don't need, skip it. Most users don't need it. If you
do, though, you should consider a dedicated blade welder for heavy use,
and silver soldering/brazing only for occasional use.

John Martin