Awl--

Got a 10 hp centrifugal blower, and am tryna get blade off the 1" dia motor
shaft
A picture is worth a thousand words, but I'll try to convey this succinctly.

The shaft is keyed, and on the shaft is a steel bushing, about 1 5/8 diam,
finely split.
Then, on this bushing is the hub of the centrifugal fan blade assembly.

But the interesting part is how this hub is affixed to the bushing.
Right on the diameter between the bushing and the hub are three 5/16
threaded holes, such that half the hole is threaded into the bushing, and
half into the hub (as you face the shaft).
A setscrew then locks the two together--I presume.
And presumably expands the split bushing onto both the shaft and the hub--I
think. Otherwise the bushing could slide off the shaft.

Mercifully, these setscrews came out pretty easily, but needless to say the
shaft/bushing/hub are still locked tight, and there does not seem to be any
place for a wheel/gear puller to grab.

So they are all Kroil-ing away right now.
Iny idears on how to pop this bushing/hub off the shaft? I can't get
between the motor and the back of the centrifugal blades w/o acetylene-ing
the blower housing off, for a wedge, etc. Altho if I must do this, I will.

TIA.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

I may be reading your description wrong, but I bet 1 of the 3 holes is not
threaded into the hub, put a bolt in it and push off the hub.
gary


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

Got a 10 hp centrifugal blower, and am tryna get blade off the 1" dia
motor shaft
A picture is worth a thousand words, but I'll try to convey this
succinctly.

The shaft is keyed, and on the shaft is a steel bushing, about 1 5/8 diam,
finely split.
Then, on this bushing is the hub of the centrifugal fan blade assembly.

But the interesting part is how this hub is affixed to the bushing.
Right on the diameter between the bushing and the hub are three 5/16
threaded holes, such that half the hole is threaded into the bushing, and
half into the hub (as you face the shaft).
A setscrew then locks the two together--I presume.
And presumably expands the split bushing onto both the shaft and the
hub--I think. Otherwise the bushing could slide off the shaft.

Mercifully, these setscrews came out pretty easily, but needless to say
the shaft/bushing/hub are still locked tight, and there does not seem to
be any place for a wheel/gear puller to grab.

So they are all Kroil-ing away right now.
Iny idears on how to pop this bushing/hub off the shaft? I can't get
between the motor and the back of the centrifugal blades w/o acetylene-ing
the blower housing off, for a wedge, etc. Altho if I must do this, I
will.

TIA.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

You might be right--one of the holes in fact did *not* have a set screw in
it!!
Now, if I can only figger out which one it was--they all look alike now!!
That third hole (w/o the set screw) similarly straddled the bushing and the
hub, and it looked threaded into both. I'll check it again.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Gary Owens" wrote in message
...
I may be reading your description wrong, but I bet 1 of the 3 holes is not
threaded into the hub, put a bolt in it and push off the hub.
gary


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

Got a 10 hp centrifugal blower, and am tryna get blade off the 1" dia
motor shaft
A picture is worth a thousand words, but I'll try to convey this
succinctly.

The shaft is keyed, and on the shaft is a steel bushing, about 1 5/8
diam, finely split.
Then, on this bushing is the hub of the centrifugal fan blade assembly.

But the interesting part is how this hub is affixed to the bushing.
Right on the diameter between the bushing and the hub are three 5/16
threaded holes, such that half the hole is threaded into the bushing, and
half into the hub (as you face the shaft).
A setscrew then locks the two together--I presume.
And presumably expands the split bushing onto both the shaft and the
hub--I think. Otherwise the bushing could slide off the shaft.

Mercifully, these setscrews came out pretty easily, but needless to say
the shaft/bushing/hub are still locked tight, and there does not seem to
be any place for a wheel/gear puller to grab.

So they are all Kroil-ing away right now.
Iny idears on how to pop this bushing/hub off the shaft? I can't get
between the motor and the back of the centrifugal blades w/o
acetylene-ing the blower housing off, for a wedge, etc. Altho if I must
do this, I will.

TIA.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

2 of the holes are threaded in the hub half of the hole, and push the
bushing into the tapered bore of the hub. They are probably at 180 degrees
to each other. The other hole is threaded
in the bushing, and pushes the bushing out of the tapered bore of the hub
when tightened.
Take out the two "tighten" screws, put one of them in the "loosen" hole, and
remove the bushing. This is a fairly common style of taper lock bushing. I
probably see more flanged
style bushings, but not by much.

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
You might be right--one of the holes in fact did *not* have a set screw in
it!!
Now, if I can only figger out which one it was--they all look alike now!!
That third hole (w/o the set screw) similarly straddled the bushing and
the hub, and it looked threaded into both. I'll check it again.
--

In article ,
says...
You might be right--one of the holes in fact did *not* have a set screw in
it!!
Now, if I can only figger out which one it was--they all look alike now!!
That third hole (w/o the set screw) similarly straddled the bushing and the
hub, and it looked threaded into both. I'll check it again.

It's a Taper-lock hub. The holes are threaded only on one side of the
hub/bushing interface. Which side depends on whether a particular hole
is for assembling or removing the hub. Instructions he

http://www.vangorp.biz/pdf/tl-bushin...structions.pdf

Ned Simmons

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 22:22:21 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Awl--

Got a 10 hp centrifugal blower, and am tryna get blade off the 1" dia motor
shaft
A picture is worth a thousand words, but I'll try to convey this succinctly.

The shaft is keyed, and on the shaft is a steel bushing, about 1 5/8 diam,
finely split.
Then, on this bushing is the hub of the centrifugal fan blade assembly.

But the interesting part is how this hub is affixed to the bushing.
Right on the diameter between the bushing and the hub are three 5/16
threaded holes, such that half the hole is threaded into the bushing, and
half into the hub (as you face the shaft).
A setscrew then locks the two together--I presume.
And presumably expands the split bushing onto both the shaft and the hub--I
think. Otherwise the bushing could slide off the shaft.

Mercifully, these setscrews came out pretty easily, but needless to say the
shaft/bushing/hub are still locked tight, and there does not seem to be any
place for a wheel/gear puller to grab.

So they are all Kroil-ing away right now.
Iny idears on how to pop this bushing/hub off the shaft? I can't get
between the motor and the back of the centrifugal blades w/o acetylene-ing
the blower housing off, for a wedge, etc. Altho if I must do this, I will.


Dodge "Taper-Lock" tapered bushing. One of the stranger versions of
the tapered pulley bushings to be sure but effective and they don't
take up any extra space. At any rate if you look carefully one or more
of the holes will have the threads on the bushing instead of the
pulley (cleanup may be needed to determine true threads verses
rust/crud imitation thread) and is used to help push the bushing out
of the taper. One clue is that half the hole will be blocked and the
other half threaded through. The setscrew pushes against the blind
half hole while pulling on the threads of the threaded half. Here's a
link to the instructions though they're not real clear.

http://www.dodge-pt.com/pdf/instruct...799/499737.pdf

Hint: Some careful tapping in the proper locations may be needed to
help the setscrew to push the pulley/etc. off the tapered bushing.

The two directly across from each either are use to tighten. The
single hole forces the two holes apart (whith the other two holes
empty, of course. We used thousands of these where we built machinery.

dennis
in nca

The key to putting these back together is to get everything super clean
and add some lube on the inner piece's tapered outer surface before
reassembly. Tighten the two opposite screws, alternating sides until
it's good and tight. A good finishing touch is to use a hammer and
non-maring rod or block and strike the inner portion sharply to force
the fit even tighter. This will allow the screws to tighten up one
more time. Thread lock should not be needed in ordinary use, but
perhaps in rock mills, etc?

We sometimes used these without the key to allow a certain amount of
"slip" in the case of accidental shock to the system. Kind of like a
shear pin in a boat prop and for the same reasons. Mounting shaft
dimension (etc.) was, of course, more critical.

dennis
in nca

Interesting idear, mounting w/o the key.
Mebbe a nylon key, or lead key??

You are all on the money, and right after (and thanks to) Gary's post, I
started to grok the process.

'course, I was still grokking at 4 am, but got it off!

Funny, after that, I was removing a pulley from a 5 hp motor, with a similar
taper lock hub! Which, by then, I was fairly expert in!

This one was more straightforward, tho. The pulley mounted on a
*front-flanged* taper lock hub, which had four holes in the flange, 2
clearance, 2 threaded, for 1/4-20.
The clearance holes drew the pulley into the tapered hub, locking it down.
The two threaded holes would push the pulley off. Nice.

Inneresting diff:
In the taper lock hub w/ the split holes, the hub was totally split, on one
side, for "true" spring action.
On the flanged taper hub, it was split on both sides, but short of the
flange.

It's not clear which style would offer better concentricity--I think the
split-hole style (w/ the full split) might be better. It was on the much
bigger more powerful blower.

Inyway, greatly greatly appreciate the help, as it made my generally
miserable life much less miserable.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...
The key to putting these back together is to get everything super clean
and add some lube on the inner piece's tapered outer surface before
reassembly. Tighten the two opposite screws, alternating sides until
it's good and tight. A good finishing touch is to use a hammer and
non-maring rod or block and strike the inner portion sharply to force
the fit even tighter. This will allow the screws to tighten up one
more time. Thread lock should not be needed in ordinary use, but
perhaps in rock mills, etc?

We sometimes used these without the key to allow a certain amount of
"slip" in the case of accidental shock to the system. Kind of like a
shear pin in a boat prop and for the same reasons. Mounting shaft
dimension (etc.) was, of course, more critical.

dennis
in nca

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 22:54:18 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:


Inneresting diff:
In the taper lock hub w/ the split holes, the hub was totally split, on one
side, for "true" spring action.
On the flanged taper hub, it was split on both sides, but short of the
flange.

There's a lot of different styles of taper lock hubs out there.
Mostly because one company would get a patent and another company
would have to make something different in order to get around it.