Interesting idear, mounting w/o the key.
Mebbe a nylon key, or lead key??

You are all on the money, and right after (and thanks to) Gary's post, I
started to grok the process.

'course, I was still grokking at 4 am, but got it off!

Funny, after that, I was removing a pulley from a 5 hp motor, with a similar
taper lock hub! Which, by then, I was fairly expert in!

This one was more straightforward, tho. The pulley mounted on a
*front-flanged* taper lock hub, which had four holes in the flange, 2
clearance, 2 threaded, for 1/4-20.
The clearance holes drew the pulley into the tapered hub, locking it down.
The two threaded holes would push the pulley off. Nice.

Inneresting diff:
In the taper lock hub w/ the split holes, the hub was totally split, on one
side, for "true" spring action.
On the flanged taper hub, it was split on both sides, but short of the
flange.

It's not clear which style would offer better concentricity--I think the
split-hole style (w/ the full split) might be better. It was on the much
bigger more powerful blower.

Inyway, greatly greatly appreciate the help, as it made my generally
miserable life much less miserable.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...
The key to putting these back together is to get everything super clean
and add some lube on the inner piece's tapered outer surface before
reassembly. Tighten the two opposite screws, alternating sides until
it's good and tight. A good finishing touch is to use a hammer and
non-maring rod or block and strike the inner portion sharply to force
the fit even tighter. This will allow the screws to tighten up one
more time. Thread lock should not be needed in ordinary use, but
perhaps in rock mills, etc?

We sometimes used these without the key to allow a certain amount of
"slip" in the case of accidental shock to the system. Kind of like a
shear pin in a boat prop and for the same reasons. Mounting shaft
dimension (etc.) was, of course, more critical.

dennis
in nca