Beginner question here. Note that I own some machine tools but still
haven't had a chance to start using them! So don't assume I have any
commonly understood machinist knowledge cause I ain't one. Yet.

I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two. The
one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling. Can I use this as is or should
I change out whatever parts in the spindle to make it use R-8 tooling.?
What parts might be involved? The old BP is pretty worn so I don't want to
swap heads or take parts out for the new one.

Thanks.
Steve.

I wouldn't try taking a BP spindle apart. The bearings are pre loaded
and possibly need special tools to dismantle and reassemble.



Roy
SteveF wrote:
Beginner question here. Note that I own some machine tools but still
haven't had a chance to start using them! So don't assume I have any
commonly understood machinist knowledge cause I ain't one. Yet.

I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two. The
one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling. Can I use this as is or should
I change out whatever parts in the spindle to make it use R-8 tooling.?
What parts might be involved? The old BP is pretty worn so I don't want to
swap heads or take parts out for the new one.

Thanks.
Steve.

SteveF wrote:
Beginner question here. Note that I own some machine tools but still
haven't had a chance to start using them! So don't assume I have any
commonly understood machinist knowledge cause I ain't one. Yet.

I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two. The
one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling. Can I use this as is or should
I change out whatever parts in the spindle to make it use R-8 tooling.?
What parts might be involved? The old BP is pretty worn so I don't want to
swap heads or take parts out for the new one.

Thanks.
Steve.

MT3? Really? I didn't know BP ever had a head that used MT3. I know
of BS9, MT2 and R8.

It wouldn't be the first time I learned something new from this
group....

JW

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 08:00:24 -0500, "SteveF"
wrote:
Beginner question here. Note that I own some machine tools but still
haven't had a chance to start using them! So don't assume I have any
commonly understood machinist knowledge cause I ain't one. Yet.
I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two. The
one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling. Can I use this as is or should
I change out whatever parts in the spindle to make it use R-8 tooling.?
What parts might be involved? The old BP is pretty worn so I don't want to
swap heads or take parts out for the new one.
Thanks.
Steve.
===================
IMNSHO --

Based on several years of working in an academic/training
environment with millling machines with both R8 and MT spindles,
I doubt you will find and any operational difference for the
typical home shop machinist, although there is always the "real
machinists/milling machines use R8 collets" factor.

To be sure, the R8 spindle with R8 collets and holders can hold
much larger tooling than can the 3MT, but the much larger tooling
is also much more expensive and in general is better suited to a
production environment.

The downside with using drawbar MT collets is that the MT is a
self holding taper, and it can be difficult/time consuming to
change collets/tooling.

Given that you will most likely be buying collets, I suggest that
you purchase a 3MT holder using ER collets. I have found the ER
collet end mill holders to be both very rigid and easy/quick to
change. You will not need the complete collet set, as end mills
and other tools have more or less standardized on 3/8 and 1/2
diameter shanks, at least in the U.S. The down-side is the MT/ER
holders do extend 2 to 3 inches from the spindle slightly
reducing clearance.

An alternative is MT shank end mill holders which use a set-screw
to retain "Weldon" style shank end mills and tools. I have found
that it is easy to file or grind a "Weldon" style flat on tooling
not so equiped, and items such as edge finders and wigglers work
fine with only light clamping pressure from the setscrew as there
is no significant torque required during operation.

I have extensively used both styles and found them very
satisfactory, although my personal preference is for the ER
collet type.

for examples of the ER style holders see:
http://tool-holder.electronic.com.tw...-MTB4-MTB5.htm
http://www.hhip.com/products/product...D=900-0005-061

for examples of the set-screw style holders see:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=302
http://phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr...ADAPTORS&id=43
http://www.wttool.com/c/16080005p

For the very occasional times when spindle/table clearance might
be a problem, 3MT drawbar collets are available which either do
not extend past the end of the spindle or do so only minimally.

Uncle George

"SteveF" wrote in message
. ..

Beginner question here. Note that I own some machine tools but still
haven't had a chance to start using them! So don't assume I have any
commonly understood machinist knowledge cause I ain't one. Yet.

I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two.
The one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling. Can I use this as is or
should I change out whatever parts in the spindle to make it use R-8
tooling.? What parts might be involved? The old BP is pretty worn so I
don't want to swap heads or take parts out for the new one.

Thanks.
Steve.



Correction - The machine has a Fast Change 30 which is an NMTB 30 without
the drawbar.

Steve.

According to SteveF :

"SteveF" wrote in message
. ..

[ ... ]

I've got an old, very well used, BP that I was going to rebuild but had a
chance to score a lightly used BP J-head Series 1 so now I've got two.
The one I just bought is set up for MT3 tooling.

[ ... ]

Correction - The machine has a Fast Change 30 which is an NMTB 30 without
the drawbar.

Aha! This makes more sense with the Series-I machine.

You'll need to find the 30 NMTB end mill holders, and collet
holders, but those should be excellent for your work. I would not
bother changing to an R8 spindle. Among other things, if you eventually
convert the machine to CNC, the quick-change tools with preset tool
offsets per tool will make the CNC a lot easier to live with.

You can find them on eBay. You can buy one or two *new* from
someplace like MSC, to get yourself started -- say a 1/2" end mill
holder and a 3/8" end mill holder, and then look for the others on eBay,
or at used tool dealers, if you have any near where you live.

I can even use my 30 taper tooling in my Nichols horizontal mill
(40 taper spindle), with an adaptor sleeve from 30 taper to 40 taper,
and a homemade drawbar to fit the different thread.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article . com,
says...
I wouldn't try taking a BP spindle apart. The bearings are pre loaded
and possibly need special tools to dismantle and reassemble.


The J-head spindles are quite straightforward to work on. Preload is
predetermined by the bearing set. The proper hook spanner and pin
spanner are nice to have, but by no means necessary.

I understand that the M-heads are another matter entirely.

Ned Simmons