Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor

On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 20:55:29 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor
I got mine for my Myford from Myford - can't remember what they called
them or what they cost, but they were VERY reasonable
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Pete Keillor wrote:
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Not rivets, but are you thinking of drive screws?

John Martin

Keywords:
In article , Pete Keillor wrote:
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

I forget the name (drive screws?), but McMaster Carr used to sell them.

Doug White

Pete Keillor wrote:
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor


Drive screws?
http://smithfast.com/udrivescrew.html

Dale Scroggins

On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 02:49:37 GMT, Dale Scroggins
wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor


Drive screws?
http://smithfast.com/udrivescrew.html

Dale Scroggins

Thanks, everybody. I ordered some from McMaster.

Pete Keillor

According to Pete Keillor :
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

I've got steel ones, bought from MSC.

They are called "drive screws", IIRC. They have a multi-start
thread at about 45 degrees or so, which turns the screw as it is pressed
into the workpiece.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

You can make some blind rivets out of soft brass. Insert close fitting pins
to the bottom and to a depth where there is a length of aprox. 2 - 3
diameters above the plate; then carefully peen over with a small ball-peen
hammer.

Bob Swinney


"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
Does anybody have a source for the little brass rivets used to hold
nameplates and data plates on machine tools? Also, what's the proper
name?

Thanks.

Pete Keillor

On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:01:50 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

You can make some blind rivets out of soft brass. Insert close fitting pins
to the bottom and to a depth where there is a length of aprox. 2 - 3
diameters above the plate; then carefully peen over with a small ball-peen
hammer.

Bob Swinney

That's a good idea. I should have thought of that. If I need a
different size than the ones I ordered, I'll try it. Even if the hole
isn't blind It could probably be done with a bucking bar, just peen
the end a little first.

Pete Keillor

I think they were called drive pins, or something similar. We used them
many years ago at Barber Coleman/Wheelco. They were steel, had a short
dog point and a fast spiral "thread" of maybe 2-3 turns per inch. This
thread dug into the base material as you drove the pin home. The
diameter was about 1/8" and the length was, maybe 3/8".

Pete Stanaitis
-------------------

Pete Keillor wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:01:50 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:


You can make some blind rivets out of soft brass. Insert close fitting pins
to the bottom and to a depth where there is a length of aprox. 2 - 3
diameters above the plate; then carefully peen over with a small ball-peen
hammer.

Bob Swinney


That's a good idea. I should have thought of that. If I need a
different size than the ones I ordered, I'll try it. Even if the hole
isn't blind It could probably be done with a bucking bar, just peen
the end a little first.

Pete Keillor

Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

According to Doug White :

Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

I would use a set of flush-cutting diagonal pliers to grip the
head, and then rock them back to pull. You need to squeeze hard enough
to groove the sides of the head, but not enough to cut through it.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Keywords:
In article rs.com, (Donald Nichols) wrote:
According to Doug White :

Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

I would use a set of flush-cutting diagonal pliers to grip the
head, and then rock them back to pull. You need to squeeze hard enough
to groove the sides of the head, but not enough to cut through it.

Any idea how hard they are? I had always assumed they were hard enough
to cut into the base metal, which is frequently cast iron. Sounds like a
good way to trash a set of flush cutters.

Doug White

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:23:02 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:


Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hey Doug:

How about center punch them then drill out with an undersize drill.
Then apply an ez-out. Or alternate, center punch and drill with a
L.H. drill.

If it was me I would make a little jig to be sure that I was center
punching them accurately.



Errol Groff

Instructor, Manufacturing Technology
H.H. Ellis Technical High School
613 Upper Maple Street
Danielson, CT 06239

New England Model Engineering Society
www.neme-s.org

Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them?

Center punch them and drill them out. Choose a drill size based on the
chart of U Drive Screws showing shank sizes at McMaster.com, or the
chart of your choice. These type screws, although they look like
rivets, do not spin in their holes the way sheet metal rivets do.
They're drillable, just be careful.

Dave

According to Doug White :
Keywords:
In article rs.com,
(Donald Nichols) wrote:
According to Doug White :

Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

I would use a set of flush-cutting diagonal pliers to grip the
head, and then rock them back to pull. You need to squeeze hard enough
to groove the sides of the head, but not enough to cut through it.

Any idea how hard they are? I had always assumed they were hard enough
to cut into the base metal, which is frequently cast iron. Sounds like a
good way to trash a set of flush cutters.

The ones which I have pulled were soft enough in the head so
they did not damage my flush cutters. I haven't checked the ones which
I have in a box, yet. But the grip doesn't need to be too tight, just
enough to start the head up a bit, then you shift your grip, and get the
lip of the cutters under the head, where it levers the head up, and
allows it to rotate (don't grip on the second stage, just the first.)

I *think* that the head is annealed, while the spiral "threads"
on the shank are work hardened.

Obviously, if you have access to the back, a drift-pin punch of
the right size will get it out with no problems.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Keywords:
In article , Errol Groff wrote:
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:23:02 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:


Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hey Doug:

How about center punch them then drill out with an undersize drill.
Then apply an ez-out. Or alternate, center punch and drill with a
L.H. drill.

If it was me I would make a little jig to be sure that I was center
punching them accurately.

It might work, but the ones I'm dealing with are too tiny for an ez-out.
The left hand drill might work. The heads are less than 1/8th of an inch
in diameter, so the root diameter of the "thread" is pretty small. If I
can drill the heads off, I could remove the name plate & have a little
bit sticking out I might be able to grab. Worse comes to worse, I could
probably shift the plate slightly & drill new holes. I like the fixture
idea. That way I presumably couldn't slip & chew up the name plate.

Doug White

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 02:43:01 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:

Keywords:
In article , Errol Groff wrote:
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:23:02 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:


Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hey Doug:

How about center punch them then drill out with an undersize drill.
Then apply an ez-out. Or alternate, center punch and drill with a
L.H. drill.

If it was me I would make a little jig to be sure that I was center
punching them accurately.

It might work, but the ones I'm dealing with are too tiny for an ez-out.
The left hand drill might work. The heads are less than 1/8th of an inch
in diameter, so the root diameter of the "thread" is pretty small. If I
can drill the heads off, I could remove the name plate & have a little
bit sticking out I might be able to grab. Worse comes to worse, I could
probably shift the plate slightly & drill new holes. I like the fixture
idea. That way I presumably couldn't slip & chew up the name plate.

Doug White

I did like DoN said on some. If they wouldn't come, whacked the head
off with a sharp chisel and drilled them out after removing the
nameplate. However, the ones on my mill were brass.

Pete Keillor

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 02:43:01 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:

Keywords:
In article , Errol Groff wrote:
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:23:02 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:


Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hey Doug:

How about center punch them then drill out with an undersize drill.
Then apply an ez-out. Or alternate, center punch and drill with a
L.H. drill.

If it was me I would make a little jig to be sure that I was center
punching them accurately.

It might work, but the ones I'm dealing with are too tiny for an ez-out.
The left hand drill might work. The heads are less than 1/8th of an inch
in diameter, so the root diameter of the "thread" is pretty small. If I
can drill the heads off, I could remove the name plate & have a little
bit sticking out I might be able to grab. Worse comes to worse, I could
probably shift the plate slightly & drill new holes. I like the fixture
idea. That way I presumably couldn't slip & chew up the name plate.

Doug White
I have had some luck pulling them with a good pair of pliers - get a
good grip on the head and pull hard while rotating slightly to the
left.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Doug White wrote:
Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Doug
I'm glad you posted this as I was contemplating the same thing last
night. Bought an Atlas 618 which is now soaking in Evaporust. I'd like
to pull the Atlas shield and the model plate.
It is my recollection that the pins are in through-holes, though they
are often plugged and virtually invisible. I'll be looking for those.
I think Bill Hardin at www.homeshopsupply.com has the pins.

Doug White wrote:
Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

The ones I removed from a Monarch were hardened. The first thing I did
was to grind a slot in the top with a Dremel cut-off disk, and try and
turn them out with a screwdriver. About half came out that way. The
rest I ground flush to the plate and removed the plate - since it was
fairly thick I could then grab the shaft of the screw with vise grips.
All but one came out that way, that one I have to drill out with a
carbide drill.

The hole size was a little over for a 4-40 thread, but I ended up
tapping and getting enough thread for small screws when I put the plates
back.

Doug White wrote:
Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hit 'em back and forth a few times with a cold chisel to loosen them.
Then grab with a pair of vise grips and try to twist them out. The
cold chisel will usually flatten the sides enough for a decent grip.

If the holes are through holes, punch them out.

John Martin

My Southbend had one busted off on the gearbox, had me cussing trying to
drill it out, at the time I didn't realize they were hard, I thought I hit a
hard spot in the casting. I ended up redrilling in another spot that
maintained the look of the original.

This was on a restoration job, after I handpainted the plate, and lightly
sanded to get the raised lettering back, clearcoated, and I used 4/40
buttonheads to reattach (kinda looks like a rivet.) Also used Devcon behind
the plate to keep the plate dead tight against the casting, & keep the
edges from lifting and allowing chips & swarf getting underneath.

Tony

"Errol Groff" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:23:02 GMT, (Doug White)
wrote:


Any clever tricks for removing nameplates without bending the hell out of
them? I've got a couple machines I've been thinking about refinishing,
and I could do a much nicer job if I could get the nameplates off without
destroying them. The drive screws in question are very small & hard ro
get any sort of purchase on.

Thanks!

Doug White

Hey Doug:

How about center punch them then drill out with an undersize drill.
Then apply an ez-out. Or alternate, center punch and drill with a
L.H. drill.

If it was me I would make a little jig to be sure that I was center
punching them accurately.



Errol Groff

Instructor, Manufacturing Technology
H.H. Ellis Technical High School
613 Upper Maple Street
Danielson, CT 06239

New England Model Engineering Society
www.neme-s.org

Very flush cutting dykes, or loosen with a screw driver and hammer then
grip. Sacrifice a putty knife and slide under the plate and shear the rivets
off. Drill new holes and your done.