I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

http://www.actionmachinery.com/writeups/12879.htm

or maybe this one from Grant Irwin's web site:

http://www.tinyisland.com/images/koleeAFTER-4.jpg

I'm wondering if it is possible to break the grinder down far enough to make
it moveable to the basement with two people and a refrigerator dolly. An
engine host can be located to remove/re-assemble heavy parts. It looks like
the grinder weighs between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds and we were able to move a
similarly heavy Clausing 5914 to the basement.

Also is there anything special to ask about or check on KO Lee grinders?

Mike

It's Erwin, not Irwin :-)

You'll want to start by removing the table which should just lift off. It
will weigh about 100 pounds depending on how big your chuck is. Two guys
can very easily lift and carry such a table. You will want to think ahead
every step because you don't want to put it down except on soft clean wood
strips as both the top and bottom are very precisely ground surfaces.

Next, you'll want to remove the grinder from the base. My base is cast iron
and is quite heavy, maybe 200 pounds.

The remainder, maybe 700 pounds, will be similar to moving a mill-drill.
I don't think I'd recommend 2 guys and a refrigerator dolly - what if it
got away from you? It could maim or kill the guy down below and do thousands
of dollars damage to the stairway. I have skidded 600-700 pound machines
down stairs but I first built a skidway with 2x12s and I lowered it using
a come-along from above. Whatever you tie the come-along to has to be
unquestioningly strong. You might have it run to a cable which runs out
the door to a large truck bumper or something.

You might want to get an SE612 manual from K.O. Lee before you start. One of
the advantages of this machine is the manufacturer is still in business
and, at least to me, was very helpful in my rebuild.

I forget things a lot and have been trained to be methodical, so I wrote down
what I did. Here is how I disassembled my grinder. - GWE

1: Moving the machine

The grinder base is bolted to the base casting. The grinder base
has 4 feet. Running sideways below the base of the grinder, between
the back feet and the front feet, is an opening about 5/8", maybe
12" wide. I put a piece of steel plate 1/2"x12"x30" in there, just
slid it through. It stuck out about 4" on either side. I looped a
10' web sling around so the end loops were at the hook and it looped
under both sides. In this way I could lift the grinder with a single
hook from above. Before lifting, I tied another loop around the
vertical column, to the lifting web. This kept the machine from
tumbling backwards. This worked for both lifting the entire machine,
as well as for lifting the grinder off the base casting.

2: Removing the table

The table lifts right up. Without the chuck on it, I can lift it fairly
easily, so it probably weighs about 90#, maybe a bit more. The only
trick is to have a couple of pieces of wood placed so you can put it
down after lifting it, it is not pleasant to need dunnage when you
have the load in midair!

3: Removing the apron

The skirt castings are secured by 10 flat-head hex screws (10-32).
The side skirts come right off after being unscrewed, but the
front one requires that the X and Y handwheels are removed first.
After removing the X and Y handwheels, the front skirt can be
removed. After removing the skirts, the Y handwheel should be
reinstalled, and the apron moved as far from the column as possible.
There are two flat bars bolted to the base of the apron with 4 bolts
each. With the apron fully forward, the front 3 bolts can be accessed
for removal. Then the apron should be cranked to the full rear
position, where the 4th bolts can be removed, and the retaining
bars removed and set aside. Then the apron can be lifted off, which
takes a hoist or 2 sturdy workers, and set down on appropriate blocks
of wood or whatever. The apron's ways will have a lot of oil in them,
which may be largely removed with a shop vac prior to lifting the
apron off.

4: Removing the X axis handwheel

First, remove the table. The underside of the table has a rack which
engages a pinion gear on the end of the X axis handwheel shaft. Hold
the wheel, and remove the nut from next to the pinion gear. With a
lump of lead, tap the threaded end of the shaft. This should drive
the pinion gear off. Be careful not to lose the Woodruff key. There
is a spring/ball/detent catch which you don't need to disassemble. The
handwheel should come right straight out at this point.

5: Removing the Y axis handwheel

Remove the 11/16" lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel
will slide right off.

6: Removing the Z axis handwheel

Remove the lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel will
slide right off. The Y and Z handwheels differ only in the calibration
on the edges - the Z handwheel is calibrated in tenths.

7: Handwheel Disassembly Notes:

To disassemble the Y or Z handwheel assembly, it is necessary to pull out the
straight pin which keeps the locking bolt from unscrewing. I pulled these pins
straight out with a Vise Grip.

8: Motor removal

Disconnect the wiring from the motor, labelling wires if you care to. Remove
the 4 belts from the motor pulley. Remove the 4 motor mount bolts while
holding the motor up. At this point the motor will come free in your hand.


Mike Henry wrote:
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

http://www.actionmachinery.com/writeups/12879.htm

or maybe this one from Grant Irwin's web site:

http://www.tinyisland.com/images/koleeAFTER-4.jpg

I'm wondering if it is possible to break the grinder down far enough to make
it moveable to the basement with two people and a refrigerator dolly. An
engine host can be located to remove/re-assemble heavy parts. It looks like
the grinder weighs between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds and we were able to move a
similarly heavy Clausing 5914 to the basement.

Also is there anything special to ask about or check on KO Lee grinders?

Mike

"Mike Henry" wrote in message ...
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

Most small surface grinders will break down to managable components;
the table and base/column assembly being the two heaviest components.
If you buy a dirty used one like Grant did you will probably want to
break it down to paint it anyway. BTW, Grant did a great job of
rehabbing his as I was the former owner. I don't think there is
anything special to look for in a KO Lee but condition of the ways is
everything on any surface grinder. The KO Lee has the longitudinal
travel handle and vertical adjustment handle reversed from most other
grinders. Most operators prefer to use the style of machine they
originally learned on. If you need a project I have a dirty
Boyer-Schultz 6" X 18" with electromagnetic chuck and hydraulic feed
for the grand price of $750. It's here in SoCal so it may not do you
much good but maybe someone else needs it. Leigh @ MarMachine

"Leigh Knudson" wrote in message
om...
"Mike Henry" wrote in message
...
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm
not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

Most small surface grinders will break down to managable components;
the table and base/column assembly being the two heaviest components.
If you buy a dirty used one like Grant did you will probably want to
break it down to paint it anyway. BTW, Grant did a great job of
rehabbing his as I was the former owner. I don't think there is
anything special to look for in a KO Lee but condition of the ways is
everything on any surface grinder. The KO Lee has the longitudinal
travel handle and vertical adjustment handle reversed from most other
grinders. Most operators prefer to use the style of machine they
originally learned on. If you need a project I have a dirty
Boyer-Schultz 6" X 18" with electromagnetic chuck and hydraulic feed
for the grand price of $750. It's here in SoCal so it may not do you
much good but maybe someone else needs it. Leigh @ MarMachine

Thanks Leigh,

I was hoping that it could be broken down into table, base, *and* column as
that would make the parts more manageable.
I've not used a surface grinder enough to form learned habits so that
shouldn't be any problem. Dirt doesn't bother me, but the cost to get that
from you to here near Chicago would. I suspect you won't have any problem
selling it out there, though. Your reputation is enviable.

Mike

Oops - sorry for not getting your name right, especially since you took the
time to formulate a very detailed response. That takes time which is
greatly appreciated!

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
It's Erwin, not Irwin :-)

You'll want to start by removing the table which should just lift off. It
will weigh about 100 pounds depending on how big your chuck is. Two guys
can very easily lift and carry such a table. You will want to think ahead
every step because you don't want to put it down except on soft clean wood
strips as both the top and bottom are very precisely ground surfaces.

That sounds like really good advice - plenty of clean wood around for that,
too.

Next, you'll want to remove the grinder from the base. My base is cast
iron
and is quite heavy, maybe 200 pounds.

Is seperating the grinder and base as simple as removing a few bolts? I
downloaded the parts listing from KO Lee for their current 612 but it's not
clear from the diagram in the document, and it's probably the wrong grinder
anyway.

The remainder, maybe 700 pounds, will be similar to moving a mill-drill.
I don't think I'd recommend 2 guys and a refrigerator dolly - what if it
got away from you? It could maim or kill the guy down below and do
thousands
of dollars damage to the stairway. I have skidded 600-700 pound machines
down stairs but I first built a skidway with 2x12s and I lowered it using
a come-along from above. Whatever you tie the come-along to has to be
unquestioningly strong. You might have it run to a cable which runs out
the door to a large truck bumper or something.

Is it possible or even advisable to seperate the column from the grinder
base? One problem with the layout here is that machines have to get through
the door from the garage into a fairly narrow laundry room and then make a
90° turn to go down the stairs. There's no good way to anchor a come-along
to the wall opposite the stairs on ground level, but maybe I just need to
get more creative.

You might want to get an SE612 manual from K.O. Lee before you start. One
of
the advantages of this machine is the manufacturer is still in business
and, at least to me, was very helpful in my rebuild.

I'll be doing that tomorrow, providing the seller gets back to me with a
model and/or serial number.

I forget things a lot and have been trained to be methodical, so I wrote
down
what I did. Here is how I disassembled my grinder. - GWE

1: Moving the machine

The grinder base is bolted to the base casting. The grinder base
has 4 feet. Running sideways below the base of the grinder, between
the back feet and the front feet, is an opening about 5/8", maybe
12" wide. I put a piece of steel plate 1/2"x12"x30" in there, just
slid it through. It stuck out about 4" on either side. I looped a
10' web sling around so the end loops were at the hook and it looped
under both sides. In this way I could lift the grinder with a single
hook from above. Before lifting, I tied another loop around the
vertical column, to the lifting web. This kept the machine from
tumbling backwards. This worked for both lifting the entire machine,
as well as for lifting the grinder off the base casting.

2: Removing the table

The table lifts right up. Without the chuck on it, I can lift it fairly
easily, so it probably weighs about 90#, maybe a bit more. The only
trick is to have a couple of pieces of wood placed so you can put it
down after lifting it, it is not pleasant to need dunnage when you
have the load in midair!

3: Removing the apron

The skirt castings are secured by 10 flat-head hex screws (10-32).
The side skirts come right off after being unscrewed, but the
front one requires that the X and Y handwheels are removed first.
After removing the X and Y handwheels, the front skirt can be
removed. After removing the skirts, the Y handwheel should be
reinstalled, and the apron moved as far from the column as possible.
There are two flat bars bolted to the base of the apron with 4 bolts
each. With the apron fully forward, the front 3 bolts can be accessed
for removal. Then the apron should be cranked to the full rear
position, where the 4th bolts can be removed, and the retaining
bars removed and set aside. Then the apron can be lifted off, which
takes a hoist or 2 sturdy workers, and set down on appropriate blocks
of wood or whatever. The apron's ways will have a lot of oil in them,
which may be largely removed with a shop vac prior to lifting the
apron off.

4: Removing the X axis handwheel

First, remove the table. The underside of the table has a rack which
engages a pinion gear on the end of the X axis handwheel shaft. Hold
the wheel, and remove the nut from next to the pinion gear. With a
lump of lead, tap the threaded end of the shaft. This should drive
the pinion gear off. Be careful not to lose the Woodruff key. There
is a spring/ball/detent catch which you don't need to disassemble. The
handwheel should come right straight out at this point.

5: Removing the Y axis handwheel

Remove the 11/16" lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel
will slide right off.

6: Removing the Z axis handwheel

Remove the lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel will
slide right off. The Y and Z handwheels differ only in the calibration
on the edges - the Z handwheel is calibrated in tenths.

7: Handwheel Disassembly Notes:

To disassemble the Y or Z handwheel assembly, it is necessary to pull out
the
straight pin which keeps the locking bolt from unscrewing. I pulled these
pins
straight out with a Vise Grip.

8: Motor removal

Disconnect the wiring from the motor, labelling wires if you care to.
Remove
the 4 belts from the motor pulley. Remove the 4 motor mount bolts while
holding the motor up. At this point the motor will come free in your hand.

Wow - that's quite a write up and much more than I'd hoped for! Thanks for
taking the time to create it.

Mike


Mike Henry wrote:
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm
not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

http://www.actionmachinery.com/writeups/12879.htm

or maybe this one from Grant Irwin's web site:

http://www.tinyisland.com/images/koleeAFTER-4.jpg

I'm wondering if it is possible to break the grinder down far enough to
make
it moveable to the basement with two people and a refrigerator dolly.
An
engine host can be located to remove/re-assemble heavy parts. It looks
like
the grinder weighs between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds and we were able to
move a
similarly heavy Clausing 5914 to the basement.

Also is there anything special to ask about or check on KO Lee grinders?

Mike

As a benefit to any future buyers and to follow up on my question about
breaking down a KO Lee grinder far enough to move it to a basement, it
appears that the column can be removed from the grinder base. This for an
S714 grinder based on info provided by the seller. That should make the
heaviest piece more manageable.

"Mike Henry" wrote in message
...
Oops - sorry for not getting your name right, especially since you took
the
time to formulate a very detailed response. That takes time which is
greatly appreciated!

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
It's Erwin, not Irwin :-)

You'll want to start by removing the table which should just lift off.
It
will weigh about 100 pounds depending on how big your chuck is. Two guys
can very easily lift and carry such a table. You will want to think
ahead
every step because you don't want to put it down except on soft clean
wood
strips as both the top and bottom are very precisely ground surfaces.

That sounds like really good advice - plenty of clean wood around for
that,
too.

Next, you'll want to remove the grinder from the base. My base is cast
iron
and is quite heavy, maybe 200 pounds.

Is seperating the grinder and base as simple as removing a few bolts? I
downloaded the parts listing from KO Lee for their current 612 but it's
not
clear from the diagram in the document, and it's probably the wrong
grinder
anyway.

The remainder, maybe 700 pounds, will be similar to moving a mill-drill.
I don't think I'd recommend 2 guys and a refrigerator dolly - what if it
got away from you? It could maim or kill the guy down below and do
thousands
of dollars damage to the stairway. I have skidded 600-700 pound machines
down stairs but I first built a skidway with 2x12s and I lowered it
using
a come-along from above. Whatever you tie the come-along to has to be
unquestioningly strong. You might have it run to a cable which runs out
the door to a large truck bumper or something.

Is it possible or even advisable to seperate the column from the grinder
base? One problem with the layout here is that machines have to get
through
the door from the garage into a fairly narrow laundry room and then make a
90° turn to go down the stairs. There's no good way to anchor a
come-along
to the wall opposite the stairs on ground level, but maybe I just need to
get more creative.

You might want to get an SE612 manual from K.O. Lee before you start.
One
of
the advantages of this machine is the manufacturer is still in business
and, at least to me, was very helpful in my rebuild.

I'll be doing that tomorrow, providing the seller gets back to me with a
model and/or serial number.

I forget things a lot and have been trained to be methodical, so I wrote
down
what I did. Here is how I disassembled my grinder. - GWE

1: Moving the machine

The grinder base is bolted to the base casting. The grinder base
has 4 feet. Running sideways below the base of the grinder, between
the back feet and the front feet, is an opening about 5/8", maybe
12" wide. I put a piece of steel plate 1/2"x12"x30" in there, just
slid it through. It stuck out about 4" on either side. I looped a
10' web sling around so the end loops were at the hook and it looped
under both sides. In this way I could lift the grinder with a single
hook from above. Before lifting, I tied another loop around the
vertical column, to the lifting web. This kept the machine from
tumbling backwards. This worked for both lifting the entire machine,
as well as for lifting the grinder off the base casting.

2: Removing the table

The table lifts right up. Without the chuck on it, I can lift it fairly
easily, so it probably weighs about 90#, maybe a bit more. The only
trick is to have a couple of pieces of wood placed so you can put it
down after lifting it, it is not pleasant to need dunnage when you
have the load in midair!

3: Removing the apron

The skirt castings are secured by 10 flat-head hex screws (10-32).
The side skirts come right off after being unscrewed, but the
front one requires that the X and Y handwheels are removed first.
After removing the X and Y handwheels, the front skirt can be
removed. After removing the skirts, the Y handwheel should be
reinstalled, and the apron moved as far from the column as possible.
There are two flat bars bolted to the base of the apron with 4 bolts
each. With the apron fully forward, the front 3 bolts can be accessed
for removal. Then the apron should be cranked to the full rear
position, where the 4th bolts can be removed, and the retaining
bars removed and set aside. Then the apron can be lifted off, which
takes a hoist or 2 sturdy workers, and set down on appropriate blocks
of wood or whatever. The apron's ways will have a lot of oil in them,
which may be largely removed with a shop vac prior to lifting the
apron off.

4: Removing the X axis handwheel

First, remove the table. The underside of the table has a rack which
engages a pinion gear on the end of the X axis handwheel shaft. Hold
the wheel, and remove the nut from next to the pinion gear. With a
lump of lead, tap the threaded end of the shaft. This should drive
the pinion gear off. Be careful not to lose the Woodruff key. There
is a spring/ball/detent catch which you don't need to disassemble. The
handwheel should come right straight out at this point.

5: Removing the Y axis handwheel

Remove the 11/16" lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel
will slide right off.

6: Removing the Z axis handwheel

Remove the lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel will
slide right off. The Y and Z handwheels differ only in the calibration
on the edges - the Z handwheel is calibrated in tenths.

7: Handwheel Disassembly Notes:

To disassemble the Y or Z handwheel assembly, it is necessary to pull
out
the
straight pin which keeps the locking bolt from unscrewing. I pulled
these
pins
straight out with a Vise Grip.

8: Motor removal

Disconnect the wiring from the motor, labelling wires if you care to.
Remove
the 4 belts from the motor pulley. Remove the 4 motor mount bolts while
holding the motor up. At this point the motor will come free in your
hand.

Wow - that's quite a write up and much more than I'd hoped for! Thanks
for
taking the time to create it.

Mike


Mike Henry wrote:
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting.
I'm
not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:

http://www.actionmachinery.com/writeups/12879.htm

or maybe this one from Grant Irwin's web site:

http://www.tinyisland.com/images/koleeAFTER-4.jpg

I'm wondering if it is possible to break the grinder down far enough
to
make
it moveable to the basement with two people and a refrigerator dolly.
An
engine host can be located to remove/re-assemble heavy parts. It
looks
like
the grinder weighs between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds and we were able to
move a
similarly heavy Clausing 5914 to the basement.

Also is there anything special to ask about or check on KO Lee
grinders?

Mike