It's Erwin, not Irwin :-)
You'll want to start by removing the table which should just lift off. It
will weigh about 100 pounds depending on how big your chuck is. Two guys
can very easily lift and carry such a table. You will want to think ahead
every step because you don't want to put it down except on soft clean wood
strips as both the top and bottom are very precisely ground surfaces.
Next, you'll want to remove the grinder from the base. My base is cast iron
and is quite heavy, maybe 200 pounds.
The remainder, maybe 700 pounds, will be similar to moving a mill-drill.
I don't think I'd recommend 2 guys and a refrigerator dolly - what if it
got away from you? It could maim or kill the guy down below and do thousands
of dollars damage to the stairway. I have skidded 600-700 pound machines
down stairs but I first built a skidway with 2x12s and I lowered it using
a come-along from above. Whatever you tie the come-along to has to be
unquestioningly strong. You might have it run to a cable which runs out
the door to a large truck bumper or something.
You might want to get an SE612 manual from K.O. Lee before you start. One of
the advantages of this machine is the manufacturer is still in business
and, at least to me, was very helpful in my rebuild.
I forget things a lot and have been trained to be methodical, so I wrote down
what I did. Here is how I disassembled my grinder. - GWE
1: Moving the machine
The grinder base is bolted to the base casting. The grinder base
has 4 feet. Running sideways below the base of the grinder, between
the back feet and the front feet, is an opening about 5/8", maybe
12" wide. I put a piece of steel plate 1/2"x12"x30" in there, just
slid it through. It stuck out about 4" on either side. I looped a
10' web sling around so the end loops were at the hook and it looped
under both sides. In this way I could lift the grinder with a single
hook from above. Before lifting, I tied another loop around the
vertical column, to the lifting web. This kept the machine from
tumbling backwards. This worked for both lifting the entire machine,
as well as for lifting the grinder off the base casting.
2: Removing the table
The table lifts right up. Without the chuck on it, I can lift it fairly
easily, so it probably weighs about 90#, maybe a bit more. The only
trick is to have a couple of pieces of wood placed so you can put it
down after lifting it, it is not pleasant to need dunnage when you
have the load in midair!
3: Removing the apron
The skirt castings are secured by 10 flat-head hex screws (10-32).
The side skirts come right off after being unscrewed, but the
front one requires that the X and Y handwheels are removed first.
After removing the X and Y handwheels, the front skirt can be
removed. After removing the skirts, the Y handwheel should be
reinstalled, and the apron moved as far from the column as possible.
There are two flat bars bolted to the base of the apron with 4 bolts
each. With the apron fully forward, the front 3 bolts can be accessed
for removal. Then the apron should be cranked to the full rear
position, where the 4th bolts can be removed, and the retaining
bars removed and set aside. Then the apron can be lifted off, which
takes a hoist or 2 sturdy workers, and set down on appropriate blocks
of wood or whatever. The apron's ways will have a lot of oil in them,
which may be largely removed with a shop vac prior to lifting the
apron off.
4: Removing the X axis handwheel
First, remove the table. The underside of the table has a rack which
engages a pinion gear on the end of the X axis handwheel shaft. Hold
the wheel, and remove the nut from next to the pinion gear. With a
lump of lead, tap the threaded end of the shaft. This should drive
the pinion gear off. Be careful not to lose the Woodruff key. There
is a spring/ball/detent catch which you don't need to disassemble. The
handwheel should come right straight out at this point.
5: Removing the Y axis handwheel
Remove the 11/16" lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel
will slide right off.
6: Removing the Z axis handwheel
Remove the lock nut from the handwheel shaft, and the handwheel will
slide right off. The Y and Z handwheels differ only in the calibration
on the edges - the Z handwheel is calibrated in tenths.
7: Handwheel Disassembly Notes:
To disassemble the Y or Z handwheel assembly, it is necessary to pull out the
straight pin which keeps the locking bolt from unscrewing. I pulled these pins
straight out with a Vise Grip.
8: Motor removal
Disconnect the wiring from the motor, labelling wires if you care to. Remove
the 4 belts from the motor pulley. Remove the 4 motor mount bolts while
holding the motor up. At this point the motor will come free in your hand.
Mike Henry wrote:
I'm in the market for a surface grinder small enough to get into the
basement shop and came across a KO Lee 612 that looks interesting. I'm not
sure of the model number yet, but it looks quite a bit like this one:
http://www.actionmachinery.com/writeups/12879.htm
or maybe this one from Grant Irwin's web site:
http://www.tinyisland.com/images/koleeAFTER-4.jpg
I'm wondering if it is possible to break the grinder down far enough to make
it moveable to the basement with two people and a refrigerator dolly. An
engine host can be located to remove/re-assemble heavy parts. It looks like
the grinder weighs between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds and we were able to move a
similarly heavy Clausing 5914 to the basement.
Also is there anything special to ask about or check on KO Lee grinders?
Mike