Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few
great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). I want something better than the mill/drill units, something with more stability and precision. I'll be working with mostly softer metals, fabricating parts for small engines and projects. I was considering the following three mills from Grizzly and wondered if anybody had experience with them: G3102 It's 915 pounds and looks almost like a real mill, only smaller! $ 1800 G6760 At 1701 pounds it's definitely a stretch, and at $ 2700 it's at the high end of my price range, but it might be feasible if it's substantially better. G3616 This looks more like a Bridgeport than the others, and it's even a little cheaper at $ 3400, but weighs 1996 pounds, and if it doesn't break down into a few pieces it's probably too big. I freely acknowledge the superiority of a lot of the older US made machinery (thus the Clausing 5400 series lathe instead of the Grizzly, Enco, et. al. alternatives) but my primary limitation is that the equipment has to get down to the basement safely. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. |
#2
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G0519
is the one to get. Known as square colum mill, it is easily CNC-able, sold by 5 or 6 outlets, in both 120v and 240v, incl 3 phase. Loads of horse power and it is BIG. Check out http://www.industrialhobbies.com/ - there's a nice write up as to why it is a good choice for ya ![]() |
#3
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mike Berger wrote:
I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). Why? Why not take the time to change around those "steps" that go down to that basement so that they are removable? Then you can set up a permanent or temporary hoist assembly over the "pit". Now you can take up and down almost anything you like at will. If you disguise the whole thing appropriately it will look like part of the house and get good WAF (Wife Approval Factor) rating! :- ) The other option is to create a nice metal floor assembly that you can do a similar trick with (lifting done with a hoist or two - electric being kewl). The advantage to the liftable floor is that you can stow the hoist mounts only a foot or so above the top lift level, making the thing stealth... An appropriate use of pipes (etc...) for the "floor" to "track" on will inprove the handling and safety aspects... you can use the "deadman" elevator brake trick too, so if the hoist cable/chain gives up the thing won't hurtle to the floor at high speed... For extra protection, some auto (truck) coil springs around said pipes assuming the required extra depth of the pit will add another layer of "soft landing" safety... Go for it. _-_-bear |
#4
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Take a look at the Shopmaster machine at www.shoptask.com its as good a
mill as those you mentioned, plus you get a lathe as well- weighs in at about 1000# "Mike Berger" wrote in message ... I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). I want something better than the mill/drill units, something with more stability and precision. I'll be working with mostly softer metals, fabricating parts for small engines and projects. I was considering the following three mills from Grizzly and wondered if anybody had experience with them: G3102 It's 915 pounds and looks almost like a real mill, only smaller! $ 1800 G6760 At 1701 pounds it's definitely a stretch, and at $ 2700 it's at the high end of my price range, but it might be feasible if it's substantially better. G3616 This looks more like a Bridgeport than the others, and it's even a little cheaper at $ 3400, but weighs 1996 pounds, and if it doesn't break down into a few pieces it's probably too big. I freely acknowledge the superiority of a lot of the older US made machinery (thus the Clausing 5400 series lathe instead of the Grizzly, Enco, et. al. alternatives) but my primary limitation is that the equipment has to get down to the basement safely. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. |
#5
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mike Berger wrote:
I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). I want something better than the mill/drill units, something with more stability and precision. I'll be working with mostly softer metals, fabricating parts for small engines and projects. I was considering the following three mills from Grizzly and wondered if anybody had experience with them: G3102 It's 915 pounds and looks almost like a real mill, only smaller! $ 1800 G6760 At 1701 pounds it's definitely a stretch, and at $ 2700 it's at the high end of my price range, but it might be feasible if it's substantially better. G3616 This looks more like a Bridgeport than the others, and it's even a little cheaper at $ 3400, but weighs 1996 pounds, and if it doesn't break down into a few pieces it's probably too big. I freely acknowledge the superiority of a lot of the older US made machinery (thus the Clausing 5400 series lathe instead of the Grizzly, Enco, et. al. alternatives) but my primary limitation is that the equipment has to get down to the basement safely. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. Get the Bridgeport, you won't regret it. Safely rigging a 1,000# mill into a basement and safely rigging a 3,000# mill into a basement are just about the same. The Bridgeport will readily breakdown into base, head and table sections that are relatively easy to handle with suitable rigging. Lathes can usually be broken down into a few manageable sections as well. Pete C. |
#6
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 17:04:48 -0600, Mike Berger
wrote: I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). I want something better than the mill/drill units, something with more stability and precision. I'll be working with mostly softer metals, fabricating parts for small engines and projects. I was considering the following three mills from Grizzly and wondered if anybody had experience with them: G3102 It's 915 pounds and looks almost like a real mill, only smaller! $ 1800 G6760 At 1701 pounds it's definitely a stretch, and at $ 2700 it's at the high end of my price range, but it might be feasible if it's substantially better. G3616 This looks more like a Bridgeport than the others, and it's even a little cheaper at $ 3400, but weighs 1996 pounds, and if it doesn't break down into a few pieces it's probably too big. I freely acknowledge the superiority of a lot of the older US made machinery (thus the Clausing 5400 series lathe instead of the Grizzly, Enco, et. al. alternatives) but my primary limitation is that the equipment has to get down to the basement safely. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. Suggestion #1 Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#7
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 17:04:48 -0600, Mike Berger
wrote: Having read the usual responses, nothing that could be considered unusual, or practical without more information. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. KBC has an A1-s size mill that breaks down into pieces that two people can carry nicely. Smaller than a Bridgeport, but still a knee mill, and with more knee travel than the same size from Grizzly. Total weight is 960 pounds. 20" max spindle to table. Model number is VM-22-R8 Part number is 6-380-002 Good solid little machine, I have one, haven't regretted buying it. 2003/2004 catalog price is $2450, not a bad buy. Rich |
#8
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article , Gunner Asch says...
Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Step 1) purchase hardinge inexpensively. 2) sell for more money than you paid for it. 3) purchase brand new bridgeport and 4) hire riggers to install in basement! Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#9
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Mike Berger" wrote in message
... | I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few | great deals on Bridgeports (and a really nice hardinge lathe) | because my shop is located in the basement. It's dry, there's | lots of headroom, and it has a nice concrete floor. But it's | still downstairs. I'm trying to limit any machines that go | downstairs to 1000 pounds or so (per subassembly if they can | be disassembled without a lot of trouble!). | | I want something better than the mill/drill units, something with | more stability and precision. I'll be working with mostly softer | metals, fabricating parts for small engines and projects. | | I was considering the following three mills from Grizzly and | wondered if anybody had experience with them: | | G3102 It's 915 pounds and looks almost like a real mill, only | smaller! $ 1800 Looks a whole lot like the HF 40939 at $1600, except that the HF motor is 2 hp, supposedly. Might be a big difference in shipping, since you can buy one right from a store instead of shipping it. |
#10
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12 Dec 2005 20:29:47 -0800, jim rozen
wrote: In article , Gunner Asch says... Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Step 1) purchase hardinge inexpensively. 2) sell for more money than you paid for it. 3) purchase brand new bridgeport and 4) hire riggers to install in basement! Jim Bingo! Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#11
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Look at a used Clausing 8520.
-- Accidental creation should not be taught as a fact. Intelligent creation should not be banned from teachings as unconstitutional. |
#12
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Gunner said:
On 12 Dec 2005 20:29:47 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Gunner Asch says... Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Step 1) purchase hardinge inexpensively. 2) sell for more money than you paid for it. 3) purchase brand new bridgeport and 4) hire riggers to install in basement! Jim Bingo! Gunner The main questions when rigging a mill into a basement a 1. How big are your helpers? and 2. Do you have a straight shot from outside and directly down the stairs without any turns, which would allow you to winch it down? Helpers are great for things like the table, etc., which you may remove for clearance. If you can line-up a winch, or somehow position a snatch block (or blocks) to accomplish the same, it can make a difficult job into a relativly easy one. Alternate to the winch might be a suitably sized chain fall or come-along. Don't even think about trying to hold back even 1000# without some kind of mechanical leverage. Just watch out for everyone's fingers. dennis in nca |
#13
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Rich
KBC has an A1-s size mill that breaks down into pieces that two people can carry nicely. Link or a web site? Bob AZ |
#14
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Gunner Asch" Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Step 1) purchase hardinge inexpensively. 2) sell for more money than you paid for it. 3) purchase brand new bridgeport and 4) hire riggers to install in basement! Problem with that idea is that if the hardinge is so good, you won't find one that inexpensive- Trying to rig some monster into your basement is an invitation to all sorts of disasters- Find something new, with a warranty that you can afford and is small enough to move into your basement, then spend your time using the tool for the projects you have, which was the whole point of buying a mill in the first place. |
#15
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12 Dec 2005 22:30:42 -0800, "Bob AZ" wrote:
Rich KBC has an A1-s size mill that breaks down into pieces that two people can carry nicely. Link or a web site? http://www.kbctools.com/usa/main.cfm Follow the menu. (.pdf , Dammit. Page2.) Still $2450 Rich |
#16
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 13:27:06 GMT, "EdFielder"
wrote: Problem with that idea is that if the hardinge is so good, you won't find one that inexpensive- Demand for Hardinge is high, therefore, so are prices. They're solid, they should be, the weight is almost up there with a Bridgeport. Trying to rig some monster into your basement is an invitation to all sorts of disasters- Getting large machines down stairs is hairy at best. Advising people to modify the house, maybe some people don't do math. Spending $5k to modify the house so you can get a $1200 machine into the basement somehow doesn't make sense. Then it's probably 3 phase, more expense. Someday you might want it out, still more expense and if you're selling the home, (Assuming you own it.), taking the modification out for the buyer, more expense. Somehow the logic escapes me. If you don't own the house, modifying might lead to problems you don't want, far beyond the cost of getting the machine down. Rich |
#17
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 13:27:06 GMT, "EdFielder" wrote: Problem with that idea is that if the hardinge is so good, you won't find one that inexpensive- Demand for Hardinge is high, therefore, so are prices. They're solid, they should be, the weight is almost up there with a Bridgeport. Trying to rig some monster into your basement is an invitation to all sorts of disasters- Getting large machines down stairs is hairy at best. It's only hairy if you don't understand rigging. If you understand what you're trying to do it's pretty straightforward. The key is to think/measure/plan several times before ever attempting the actual move. I've moved a 10,000# shipping container by myself with nothing more than a high lift jack, some chains/slings/shackles and some small logs. Advising people to modify the house, maybe some people don't do math. Spending $5k to modify the house so you can get a $1200 machine into the basement somehow doesn't make sense. We aren't talking a 16,000# VMC here, we're talking a 2,500# or so Bridgeport knee mill. I don't think I've seen any house that has sufficient headroom in the basement for a Bridgeport, where rigging one down into the basement would require and modification to the house. Then it's probably 3 phase, more expense. Not really, $20 home built rotary phase converter or $200 VFD if you want to go all out. Someday you might want it out, still more expense and if you're selling the home, (Assuming you own it.), taking the modification out for the buyer, more expense. Again no modifications necessary. I take it you're the kind of person who buys the Volvo because you're afraid of the safety of other cars and who checks the distance to the hospital before buying a house because you might need to go there. You may also be hit by a bus tomorrow and never have to worry about selling anything. If you worry and procrastinate all the time instead of just getting the damn tools you need to enjoy yourself you're running the risk of living an unfulfilled life. Pete C. Somehow the logic escapes me. If you don't own the house, modifying might lead to problems you don't want, far beyond the cost of getting the machine down. Rich |
#18
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mike Berger wrote:
I'm looking for a mill for my home shop. I've passed up a few I advise you to find a nice rockwell vertical mill. They are very similar in size to the clausing 8520 but they use R8 tooling. The mill will break down into pieces small enough to move into the basement by two people with a refrigerator dolly. Rockwell made a vertical and horizontal mill that look like twins. They are in fact almost identical except the column on the horizontal contains the horizonal spindle. It is possible to find a combo mill. Two mills in one (horizontal and vertical) is very useful. The only downside is pulling the vertical head off to put in the overarm. Reguardless it is still a very setup. My first mill was a jet JMD-18. It was also disassembled and moved into my basement. It is just as much work to move as the rockwell vertical mill. This mill drill has a large work envelope which is the only reason I keep it after buying the rockwell mill. I would opt for a small knee mill over a mill drill any day! It is also possbile to move a clausing 12 inch lathe or rockwell lathe this way. I have helped move both. Both are nice machine. chuck |
#19
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Bob AZ wrote:
Rich KBC has an A1-s size mill that breaks down into pieces that two people can carry nicely. Link or a web site? Bob AZ FInd a nice, short tabel[32 inch] short knee[9 inch] step pulley bridgeport, they weigh maybe 2000lbs complete. pull the head, maybe the turret or table, and it is as light as the others you are considering. It is a sweet machine, much nicer than the monsters we tend to buy 'just in case I need the travel" |
#20
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 17:04:48 -0600, Mike Berger wrote: Having read the usual responses, nothing that could be considered unusual, or practical without more information. Comments on the above machines, or suggested alternatives, are welcome. KBC has an A1-s size mill that breaks down into pieces that two people can carry nicely. Smaller than a Bridgeport, but still a knee mill, and with more knee travel than the same size from Grizzly. Total weight is 960 pounds. 20" max spindle to table. Model number is VM-22-R8 Part number is 6-380-002 Good solid little machine, I have one, haven't regretted buying it. 2003/2004 catalog price is $2450, not a bad buy. Rich I agree. I have the same KBC model A1S mill, and I'm pleased with it. The A1S mills are a fine alternative if you don't have the room for a BP. The Clausing mills are also worth considering, though smaller yet than an A1S. Dan Mitchell ============ |
#21
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 15:08:25 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote: Again no modifications necessary. I take it you're the kind of person who buys the Volvo because you're afraid of the safety of other cars and who checks the distance to the hospital before buying a house because you might need to go there. IF I was, I wouldn't have three lathes, up to 12X36, the mentioned KBC mill, and many other machines in my basement. All of which were purchased keeping in mind that first, I'm going to have little help getting it down my admittedly weak stairway, second, I'm going to have to put it together with little help. Last, I still have to be able to move around after it's down there. A mill with a 4 foot table would be nice, but that also requires 8 feet of clear space to effectively use. Cramped and cluttered workspace is an accident waiting to happen. Based on the information given by the OP, and not making any ASSumptions, any other suggestions are not practical, only personal opinion, worth what you were paid for them. Logic should tell you that you know nothing beyond the 1000 pounds that was stated, anything beyond that is ASSumption and worthless. Most people know their situation a lot better than you ever will. Rich |
#22
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 15:08:25 GMT, "Pete C." wrote: Again no modifications necessary. I take it you're the kind of person who buys the Volvo because you're afraid of the safety of other cars and who checks the distance to the hospital before buying a house because you might need to go there. IF I was, I wouldn't have three lathes, up to 12X36, the mentioned KBC mill, and many other machines in my basement. All of which were purchased keeping in mind that first, I'm going to have little help getting it down my admittedly weak stairway, second, I'm going to have to put it together with little help. Last, I still have to be able to move around after it's down there. A mill with a 4 foot table would be nice, but that also requires 8 feet of clear space to effectively use. Cramped and cluttered workspace is an accident waiting to happen. Based on the information given by the OP, and not making any ASSumptions, any other suggestions are not practical, only personal opinion, worth what you were paid for them. Logic should tell you that you know nothing beyond the 1000 pounds that was stated, anything beyond that is ASSumption and worthless. Most people know their situation a lot better than you ever will. Rich The OP clearly indicated he had a basement with lots of headroom so that would not be an issue. He didn't indicate any space constraints either so since a bench top mill doesn't take that much less of a footprint than a Bridgeport space is likely not an issue. The one issue the OP indicated was weight, and he further qualified this as 1,000# or so "per subassembly if they can be disassembled without a lot of trouble". A full sized Bridgeport when easily broken down into head, table and base sections is quite close to this specification with the base section being perhaps 1,500# without the head or table. Further the disassembly and reassembly of a Bridgeport can be handled by one person with a hydraulic engine hoist and one 4' sling (I've done it multiple times myself). The bottom line being that a full sized Bridgeport would provide more capability and higher quality than a small bench top import mill and pretty much meets the OP's spec of 1,000# or so per easy subassembly. Pete C. |
#23
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 19:06:51 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote: Richard wrote: The OP clearly indicated he had a basement with lots of headroom so that would not be an issue. He didn't indicate any space constraints either so since a bench top mill doesn't take that much less of a footprint than a Bridgeport space is likely not an issue. Nor did he state there weren't any. Assume nothing. When someone doesn't have space/weight constraints, they normally don't specify "small mill". Putting my KBC together with limited headspace was all kinds of fun, just imagine how much more fun it would be with even less headspace, more weight, and no place to use a hoist. Bridgeports were made to be put in shops with high ceilings, not for trying to squeeze in someone's basement. Possibly it could be done safely, but more often than not, it won't be. As far a quality issues, there are two of us here that own the KBC, and we're not having any problems, against you, who doesn't own one, that says there are. Methinks maybe I smell rotten fish? The KBC also isn't a bench mill. For someone that needs a small mill, I can recommend it without hesitation. Rich (Who will now "plonk" this thread.) |
#24
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 15:08:25 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote: You may also be hit by a bus tomorrow and never have to worry about selling anything. If you worry and procrastinate all the time instead of just getting the damn tools you need to enjoy yourself you're running the risk of living an unfulfilled life. Pete C. Probably one of the most sage pieces of advice Ive seen here in a long time Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#25
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
There are other alternatives, if one looks around a bit
http://cgi.ebay.com/KAO-FONG-MODEL-K...QQcmdZViewItem Ive seen this mill. Quite interesting Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#26
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 19:06:51 GMT, "Pete C." wrote: Richard wrote: The OP clearly indicated he had a basement with lots of headroom so that would not be an issue. He didn't indicate any space constraints either so since a bench top mill doesn't take that much less of a footprint than a Bridgeport space is likely not an issue. Nor did he state there weren't any. Assume nothing. When someone doesn't have space/weight constraints, they normally don't specify "small mill". He specified plenty of headroom and about 1,000# per subsection and a Bridgeport fits that spec. Putting my KBC together with limited headspace was all kinds of fun, just imagine how much more fun it would be with even less headspace, more weight, and no place to use a hoist. Bridgeports were made to be put in shops with high ceilings, not for trying to squeeze in someone's basement. Possibly it could be done safely, but more often than not, it won't be. I assembled my Bridgeport, a 1J on a round ram base, in a basement with a 7' ceiling, by myself using a hydraulic engine hoist and sling, with no issues whatsoever. I also disassembled the same myself in the same manner when moving, again with no issues. I recall seeing some weight specs somewhere with the base at about 1,200#, and the ram/head and table sections each well under 1,000# As far a quality issues, there are two of us here that own the KBC, and we're not having any problems, against you, who doesn't own one, that says there are. Methinks maybe I smell rotten fish? I specified higher quality than a small bench top import mill. I stand 100% behind this statement as a non-beat-to-death Bridgeport will beat any bench top import mill I have ever seen. I have not seen the KBC and can not make a comparison to it, but I'm pretty sure that it's quality does not exceed that of a Bridgeport. The KBC may well be a decent machine, however that is not relevant to my point. My point is that a full sized Bridgeport does indeed meet the specifications indicated by the OP. I expect the OP did not realize how easily a Bridgeport can be disassembled into the nominal 1,000# parts. The KBC also isn't a bench mill. For someone that needs a small mill, I can recommend it without hesitation. I never said the KBC was a bench mill or that it was bad. Rich (Who will now "plonk" this thread.) Plonk away bud, you've not made a single legitimate argument to any of my statements. Pete C. |
#27
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 20:22:52 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth: There are other alternatives, if one looks around a bit http://cgi.ebay.com/KAO-FONG-MODEL-K...QQcmdZViewItem Ive seen this mill. Quite interesting His UPS guy must be an ex-sumo wrestler. From the auction: "We send via UPS Ground Domestic and USPS for International. No PO Boxes, no exceptions. " Is that in one box or two? titter -- STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL ----------------------- http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites |
#28
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
You take one lousy week off to join Thorax at the Elvis concert, and this
is what happens: "Pete C." writes on Tue, 13 Dec 2005 15:08:25 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : You may also be hit by a bus tomorrow and never have to worry about selling anything. If you worry and procrastinate all the time instead of just getting the damn tools you need to enjoy yourself you're running the risk of living an unfulfilled life. Pete C. "Wisdom" Years ago, friend ask me for advice about returning to college, seeing as how she had a life threatening illness. I said "Go! You could be dead in five years, but then again you might live. And if you don't die, you will have your degree, and can pick up from there." That was over fifteen years ago. She still is not in tip-top health, but who of us really is? Re-married too. tschus pyotr -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
#29
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
And don't forget the stairs - are they strong enough ?
Is the landing at the bottom large enough ? Is the floor at the top strong enough ? before the stairs... to the stars... Dad did his lathe because the house movers no-billed it. I don't blame the sofa mover types - Dad grew up on a farm - horses and horses for brute power. Large pure bred Morgans. He used his winch - a very large electric - to let it down a fortified stair - but then he was as much as a rigger. When you get a rigger - make sure they know what they are expected to do BEFORE agreeing. You might have the wrong type of rigger. You want them to come with the correct equipment. Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder rigger wrote: Gunner said: On 12 Dec 2005 20:29:47 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Gunner Asch says... Unless its a totally hammered piece of ****, priced far beyond what you can afford...never pass up a Hardinge. Step 1) purchase hardinge inexpensively. 2) sell for more money than you paid for it. 3) purchase brand new bridgeport and 4) hire riggers to install in basement! Jim Bingo! Gunner The main questions when rigging a mill into a basement a 1. How big are your helpers? and 2. Do you have a straight shot from outside and directly down the stairs without any turns, which would allow you to winch it down? Helpers are great for things like the table, etc., which you may remove for clearance. If you can line-up a winch, or somehow position a snatch block (or blocks) to accomplish the same, it can make a difficult job into a relativly easy one. Alternate to the winch might be a suitably sized chain fall or come-along. Don't even think about trying to hold back even 1000# without some kind of mechanical leverage. Just watch out for everyone's fingers. dennis in nca ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#30
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Martin said:
When you get a rigger - make sure they know what they are expected to do BEFORE agreeing. You might have the wrong type of rigger. You want them to come with the correct equipment. The MOST important thing to remember when checking out a company doing rigging is : GET A COPY OF THEIR CERTIFICATE OF INSURANCE. With the proper insurance you'll usually find they're a legitimate company; no legitimate company will subject you, or themselfs, to the risk of NOT having insurance. They should be able to show you proof of: 1. Liability insurance including medical liability. 2. Property damage insurance covering machinery. 3. Workers Compensation insurance. The value of the first two are self evident, the last even more serious. If a worker were to be injured and the employer not have insurance you may find yourself (and maybe your insurance company) holding the bag. This could amount to a VERY large amount of money the way the courts are handing it out these days. Ask for, and receive, a current certificate of insurance BEFORE giving out the job. I used to tell my customers the main difference between riggers moving machinery and a company, or individual, moving machinery was insurance. I still stand behind that statement. dennis in nca |
#31
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 19:06:51 GMT, "Pete C." wrote: Richard wrote: The OP clearly indicated he had a basement with lots of headroom so that would not be an issue. He didn't indicate any space constraints either so since a bench top mill doesn't take that much less of a footprint than a Bridgeport space is likely not an issue. Nor did he state there weren't any. Assume nothing. When someone doesn't have space/weight constraints, they normally don't specify "small mill". Putting my KBC together with limited headspace was all kinds of fun, just imagine how much more fun it would be with even less headspace, more weight, and no place to use a hoist. Bridgeports were made to be put in shops with high ceilings, not for trying to squeeze in someone's basement. Possibly it could be done safely, but more often than not, it won't be. As far a quality issues, there are two of us here that own the KBC, and we're not having any problems, against you, who doesn't own one, that says there are. Methinks maybe I smell rotten fish? The KBC also isn't a bench mill. For someone that needs a small mill, I can recommend it without hesitation. Rich (Who will now "plonk" this thread.) Indeed, the KBC, and many other 'A1S' mills are 'floor' mills and not 'bench' mills. "A1S' mills DO come in both versions, however. The floor versions are much like the popular Clausing 8000 series mills, but larger and heavier overall. The heads are similar on all I've seen, but the floor models have longer columns and larger tables than the bench versions. The Grizzly version is sort of half way between, with a medium column height and a low base cabinet. The KBC version has the longest column of the many makes I have seen ... that means the greatest head to table clearance. They are NOT the equivalent to a BP, even a BP clone, but they are nice little knee mills, and lot more capable than the common mill-drills. I also have a Benchmaster mill. The Benchmaster is a nice little bench mill, but does NOT compare to the A1S in size or capability. It's half the size and weight of my KBC A1S. Dan Mitchell ============ |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Harbor Freight shop crane to list Clausing 8530 mill? | Metalworking | |||
What projects did you make in HS woodshop class? | Woodworking | |||
Small Machine Shop For Sale | Metalworking | |||
Wanted - small machine shop | Metalworking | |||
OT (kinda) High School Wood Shop | Woodworking |