I picked up the $135 ($169 sale - 20% coupon) 4 x 6 band saw Tuesday
evening. I picked up a better Olson 18t wavy style blade ($15) at my
local Tractor Supply the next day.

The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand was that the guide bearings had grease lines around
them so it looks like the folks in Taiwan actually test ran the saw. The
next thing I noticed when changing blades and then looking further is
that nearly all of the bearings on the saw are made in Japan which is a
bit surprising on a made in Taiwan saw.

At any rate I've now cut 1" square steel tube, 3/4" dia steel bar, 1/2"
dia steel bar, 2" steel rigid conduit, 3/16" AL plate and 1/8" steel
plate with it in both H and V modes and I've concluded that it's much
better than sliced bread. Definitely something your shop can not live
without (unless you have a bigger / better one) for the $135, or even
the regular $209.

Pete C.

I got one from Busy Bee here in Toronto (Canadian partner to Grizzly) and
don't know how I did without it. Was on sale for C$200. Yes, the base is
crap and it took some fiddling and a quality blade to make it cut straight,
but for the HSM it's great.

Someday I'll make a better base like this:
http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/pro.../sawstand.html



"Pete C." wrote in message
...
I picked up the $135 ($169 sale - 20% coupon) 4 x 6 band saw Tuesday
evening. I picked up a better Olson 18t wavy style blade ($15) at my
local Tractor Supply the next day.

The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand was that the guide bearings had grease lines around
them so it looks like the folks in Taiwan actually test ran the saw. The
next thing I noticed when changing blades and then looking further is
that nearly all of the bearings on the saw are made in Japan which is a
bit surprising on a made in Taiwan saw.

At any rate I've now cut 1" square steel tube, 3/4" dia steel bar, 1/2"
dia steel bar, 2" steel rigid conduit, 3/16" AL plate and 1/8" steel
plate with it in both H and V modes and I've concluded that it's much
better than sliced bread. Definitely something your shop can not live
without (unless you have a bigger / better one) for the $135, or even
the regular $209.

Pete C.

Congrats on unbeleivable deal. I have had it for a while by now and
there's no better value for yer money !

Visit http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm for some great
ideas for this bandsaw.

Quality bi-metal blades and tensioning the blade properly are key for
any bandsaw's proper performance.

Check blade's positioning on the pulleys and adjust so that
blade is seated properly.

On Sun, 04 Dec 2005 15:16:57 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:


The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand

A couple of 1/4 X 1 crossbraces on each side improve it tremendously.
Rich

Richard wrote:

A couple of 1/4 X 1 crossbraces on each side improve it tremendously.
Rich

Yes, and the flimsy floor wheels can be replaced and mounted on a steel
axle - just drill through the existing sheetmetal base to mount.
Temporary, but far superior to original, and may become permanent!

Another simple modification that I've found a boon when cutting short
lengths of thin stuff, is to mount a piece of angle steel on the outside
of the blade, opposite the vice, to support the work.
There's a handy screw in just the right place, to mount it.

Jordan

"Jordan" wrote in message
...
Richard wrote:

A couple of 1/4 X 1 crossbraces on each side improve it tremendously.
Rich

Yes, and the flimsy floor wheels can be replaced and mounted on a steel
axle - just drill through the existing sheetmetal base to mount.
Temporary, but far superior to original, and may become permanent!

Another simple modification that I've found a boon when cutting short
lengths of thin stuff, is to mount a piece of angle steel on the outside
of the blade, opposite the vice, to support the work.
There's a handy screw in just the right place, to mount it.

Jordan

Geez. If you got any talent at all, you can make all sorts of things to go
with the saw. A stand with wheels, an extended support. Tool tray. Lots
of things.

I made a rod that comes up and tightens with a thumb bolt.

When I want to measure, I put the material in the saw, tighten it nearly
down, but so it will slide. I then raise the rod enough so the blade clears
the material. Now I can press the tape against the blade, and slide the
material in or out to the proper measurement.

Then, when it is right, tighten the material clamp. Turn the saw on, and
ease off the thumb screw until it falls out of the way.

An easy way to get accurate measurements. Mine is made of 1/2" square tube
that slides inside a piece of 3/4" square. Total cost, about $.25 since I
had a thumb screw that had a knob on it.

Point is, with a saw, you can make yourself some handy attachments for
whatever you do, and mighty cheap, too.

Steve

Hey Pete,
Sounds like yours is going pretty good. I got mine set up a couple of
weeks ago and the motor quit turning after not even two cuts. The first
was through a 1-1/2" brass bar and the second was just starting on a 3"
brass bar. I replaced that cheap motor with a heavier duty 1/2 HP
motor. I also replaced the blade in mine (that was the very first mod).
When I was taking the original blade out, I noticed the teeth were
backwards. Someone from the factory installed it wrong.
I haven't contact HF yet on the motor. I should probably do that this
week...
Mike

I bought mine at Tractor SUpply, but it's the same basic unit. It ran right
out of the box. Cut straight and true. Ran through the first blade quickly
and got a good blade. After about the 3rd cut on the new blade, the blade
stopped turning. The drive gear had stripped itself out. All kinds of
sparkly stuff in the oil. The manufacturer replaced it as warranty work.
They admitted they use a lot of the replacement gears, both as warranty and
after warranty.
"mj" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey Pete,
Sounds like yours is going pretty good. I got mine set up a couple of
weeks ago and the motor quit turning after not even two cuts. The first
was through a 1-1/2" brass bar and the second was just starting on a 3"
brass bar. I replaced that cheap motor with a heavier duty 1/2 HP
motor. I also replaced the blade in mine (that was the very first mod).
When I was taking the original blade out, I noticed the teeth were
backwards. Someone from the factory installed it wrong.
I haven't contact HF yet on the motor. I should probably do that this
week...
Mike

It's not possible to install a correctly welded blade such that the teeth
are backwards. You only have two options - teeth up or teeth down. If the
teeth were down and pointed backwards the blade would have had to have been
welded backwards.

"mj" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey Pete,
Sounds like yours is going pretty good. I got mine set up a couple of
weeks ago and the motor quit turning after not even two cuts. The first
was through a 1-1/2" brass bar and the second was just starting on a 3"
brass bar. I replaced that cheap motor with a heavier duty 1/2 HP
motor. I also replaced the blade in mine (that was the very first mod).
When I was taking the original blade out, I noticed the teeth were
backwards. Someone from the factory installed it wrong.
I haven't contact HF yet on the motor. I should probably do that this
week...
Mike

On Sun, 04 Dec 2005 23:43:44 GMT, "Siggy"
wrote:

It's not possible to install a correctly welded blade such that the teeth
are backwards. You only have two options - teeth up or teeth down. If the
teeth were down and pointed backwards the blade would have had to have been
welded backwards.

El WRONG! Twisting a blade inside out is no big trick.

Rich.

Yes it is!!!! All you have to do is turn the blade inside out.
Easy to do.

Jim

Siggy wrote:
It's not possible to install a correctly welded blade such that the teeth
are backwards. You only have two options - teeth up or teeth down. If the
teeth were down and pointed backwards the blade would have had to have been
welded backwards.

"mj" wrote in message
oups.com...

Hey Pete,
Sounds like yours is going pretty good. I got mine set up a couple of
weeks ago and the motor quit turning after not even two cuts. The first
was through a 1-1/2" brass bar and the second was just starting on a 3"
brass bar. I replaced that cheap motor with a heavier duty 1/2 HP
motor. I also replaced the blade in mine (that was the very first mod).
When I was taking the original blade out, I noticed the teeth were
backwards. Someone from the factory installed it wrong.
I haven't contact HF yet on the motor. I should probably do that this
week...
Mike

Hmm never thought of that. I guess the obvious obviously escaped me on this
one! Thanks for the correction.

"James Askew" wrote in message
...
Yes it is!!!! All you have to do is turn the blade inside out. Easy to
do.

Jim

Siggy wrote:
It's not possible to install a correctly welded blade such that the teeth
are backwards. You only have two options - teeth up or teeth down. If
the teeth were down and pointed backwards the blade would have had to
have been welded backwards.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
I picked up the $135 ($169 sale - 20% coupon) 4 x 6 band saw Tuesday
evening. I picked up a better Olson 18t wavy style blade ($15) at my
local Tractor Supply the next day.

The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand was that the guide bearings had grease lines around
them so it looks like the folks in Taiwan actually test ran the saw. The
next thing I noticed when changing blades and then looking further is
that nearly all of the bearings on the saw are made in Japan which is a
bit surprising on a made in Taiwan saw.

At any rate I've now cut 1" square steel tube, 3/4" dia steel bar, 1/2"
dia steel bar, 2" steel rigid conduit, 3/16" AL plate and 1/8" steel
plate with it in both H and V modes and I've concluded that it's much
better than sliced bread. Definitely something your shop can not live
without (unless you have a bigger / better one) for the $135, or even
the regular $209.

Pete C.


I think I need one of those.

Hawke

"Richard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 04 Dec 2005 23:43:44 GMT, "Siggy"
wrote:

It's not possible to install a correctly welded blade such that the teeth
are backwards. You only have two options - teeth up or teeth down. If
the
teeth were down and pointed backwards the blade would have had to have
been
welded backwards.

El WRONG! Twisting a blade inside out is no big trick.

Rich.

However, this DOES bring up the new question ..............

Does it sometimes work better in this position?

Like when you want to cut plexi and turn a plywood circle saw or table saw
blade backwards ............

It is not a simple thing.

Nothing is simple.

And nothing is obvious.

I think that is why I like metalworking.

Steve ;-)

On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 22:24:39 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


El WRONG! Twisting a blade inside out is no big trick.

Rich.

However, this DOES bring up the new question ..............

Does it sometimes work better in this position?

Like when you want to cut plexi and turn a plywood circle saw or table saw
blade backwards ............

I've never found anything.

It is not a simple thing.

Nothing is simple.

And nothing is obvious.

I think that is why I like metalworking.

Steve ;-)

Simple and obvious can both be, but depend on how thoroughly you have
the basics down. There are a lot of things that are
counter-intuitive, but usually learned the hard way, which may just
also be the best way.

Rich.

"Richard" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 22:24:39 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


El WRONG! Twisting a blade inside out is no big trick.

Rich.

However, this DOES bring up the new question ..............

Does it sometimes work better in this position?

Like when you want to cut plexi and turn a plywood circle saw or table saw
blade backwards ............

I've never found anything.

It is not a simple thing.

Nothing is simple.

And nothing is obvious.

I think that is why I like metalworking.

Steve ;-)

Simple and obvious can both be, but depend on how thoroughly you have
the basics down. There are a lot of things that are
counter-intuitive, but usually learned the hard way, which may just
also be the best way.

Rich.

Someone said something like knowledge is gained from experience, and that
being bad experience.

STeve

How did you get the 20% off coupon?

Pete C. wrote:

I picked up the $135 ($169 sale - 20% coupon) 4 x 6 band saw Tuesday
evening. I picked up a better Olson 18t wavy style blade ($15) at my
local Tractor Supply the next day.

The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand was that the guide bearings had grease lines around
them so it looks like the folks in Taiwan actually test ran the saw. The
next thing I noticed when changing blades and then looking further is
that nearly all of the bearings on the saw are made in Japan which is a
bit surprising on a made in Taiwan saw.

At any rate I've now cut 1" square steel tube, 3/4" dia steel bar, 1/2"
dia steel bar, 2" steel rigid conduit, 3/16" AL plate and 1/8" steel
plate with it in both H and V modes and I've concluded that it's much
better than sliced bread. Definitely something your shop can not live
without (unless you have a bigger / better one) for the $135, or even
the regular $209.

Pete C.

RoyJ wrote:

How did you get the 20% off coupon?

Pete C. wrote:

I picked up the $135 ($169 sale - 20% coupon) 4 x 6 band saw Tuesday
evening. I picked up a better Olson 18t wavy style blade ($15) at my
local Tractor Supply the next day.

The first thing that I noticed after assembling the saw on it's flimsy
but adequate stand was that the guide bearings had grease lines around
them so it looks like the folks in Taiwan actually test ran the saw. The
next thing I noticed when changing blades and then looking further is
that nearly all of the bearings on the saw are made in Japan which is a
bit surprising on a made in Taiwan saw.

At any rate I've now cut 1" square steel tube, 3/4" dia steel bar, 1/2"
dia steel bar, 2" steel rigid conduit, 3/16" AL plate and 1/8" steel
plate with it in both H and V modes and I've concluded that it's much
better than sliced bread. Definitely something your shop can not live
without (unless you have a bigger / better one) for the $135, or even
the regular $209.

Pete C.

Just sign up on the Harbor Freight site for the email specials. You'll
get alternating coupons, 20% off on any one item and $5/$10 off $50/$100
purchase. These are for the retail stores only.

Pete C.

On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 14:57:04 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, RoyJ
quickly quoth:

How did you get the 20% off coupon?

On their funky, priceless promo sote, Roy. Sign up for free email ads
at www.harborfreightusa.com .

Top right link says:

FREE
Receive: discounts,
coupons, specials
Click Here


They send one of two ads every day or two, either:

$5 off any $50 purchase/$10 off any $100+ purchase
or
20% off any single item (including sale prices)

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming

On Mon, 5 Dec 2005 06:48:45 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

I think that is why I like metalworking.

Steve ;-)

Simple and obvious can both be, but depend on how thoroughly you have
the basics down. There are a lot of things that are
counter-intuitive, but usually learned the hard way, which may just
also be the best way.

Rich.

Someone said something like knowledge is gained from experience, and that
being bad experience.

STeve

The true mark of experience, is you now know exactly when to
cringe..and/or duck and run.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

You take one lousy week off to join Thorax at the Elvis concert, and this
is what happens: "SteveB" writes on Mon, 5 Dec
2005 06:48:45 -0800 in rec.crafts.metalworking :

"Richard" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 22:24:39 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


El WRONG! Twisting a blade inside out is no big trick.

Rich.

However, this DOES bring up the new question ..............

Does it sometimes work better in this position?

Like when you want to cut plexi and turn a plywood circle saw or table saw
blade backwards ............

I've never found anything.

It is not a simple thing.

Nothing is simple.

And nothing is obvious.

I think that is why I like metalworking.

Steve ;-)

Simple and obvious can both be, but depend on how thoroughly you have
the basics down. There are a lot of things that are
counter-intuitive, but usually learned the hard way, which may just
also be the best way.

Rich.

Someone said something like knowledge is gained from experience, and that
being bad experience.

Good judgment comes from Experience. Experience comes from bad
judgment.

The Smart Person learns from his mistakes.
The Wise Person learns from other's mistakes.
And then there are the Other persons...

--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

When I want to measure, I put the material in the saw, tighten it nearly
down, but so it will slide. I then raise the rod enough so the blade clears
the material. Now I can press the tape against the blade, and slide the
material in or out to the proper measurement.

Interesting. Mine (Homier/HDC) came with a small L-bracket which
pivots
on the base casting and catches on notches on the saw frame. Lift
frame,
tilt up L-bracket until it catches on notch just over desired work
height, slide
material. To cut, pick up the saw frame and the L-bracket drops out of
the
way.
--Glenn Lyford