Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works evevery time it is tried!

Can muffler bearings be lubricated with the always popular K9P lube?



On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?

On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner



"By calling attention to 'a well regulated militia', the 'security' of the
nation, and the right of each citizen 'to keep and bear arms', our founding
fathers recognized the essentially civilian nature of our economy. Although
it is extremely unlikely that the fears of governmental tyranny which gave
rise to the Second Amendment will ever be a major danger to our nation, the
Amendment still remains an important declaration of our basic
civilian-military relationships, in which every citizen must be ready to
participate in the defense of his country. For that reason, I believe the
Second Amendment will always be important."
-- Senator John F. Kennedy, (D) 1960

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which
mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner

How about some prop wash?

In article , Errol Groff says...


Can muffler bearings be lubricated with the always popular K9P lube?

I always use blinker fluid for that application.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 19:29:22 -0800, "lane"
lane_nospam@copperaccents_dot_com brought forth from the murky
depths:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which
mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner

How about some prop wash?

"Wow, that's a super short runway. WIDE, too!"

Asking a printer's assistant for a box of halftone dots is
always fun, too.


--------------------------------------------------------
Murphy was an Optimist
----------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

lane wrote: How about some prop wash?
^^^^^^^^^^^
Be sure to use that with adequate ventilation.

BTW, is that an "overbearing?" 'Cause I a have a whole box of them right
under my raster straightener.

On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.


I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.


--

- Charles
-
-does not play well with others

Teflon coated muffler bearings work best especially if you straighten the
Johnson rod and use the pipe stretcher to compensate for any slack. Ceramic
coated bearings work best with catalytic converters. Don't use ceramic with
mahogany pistons as it won't go "wooden -wooden" when you mash the gas.
Always keep extra cans of compression and vacuum on hand as most auto parts
are not carrying it anymore. Seems it cuts down on engine parts sales.

Mike wrote: (clip) Don't use ceramic with mahogany pistons (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
I had an engine with mahogany pistons, but it wooden run.

lane wrote: How about some prop wash?
^^^^^^^^^^^
Be sure to use that with adequate ventilation.

BTW, is that an "overbearing?" 'Cause I a have a whole box of them right
under my raster straightener.


Raster straightener?... you must be yokeing...

On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?


No, but I could use some High QRM non-cretesfrating Finnegan pins to
match some anti-slam gasketed Molly sprockets I picked up at the flea
market cheap.

-Carl

"Charles" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.


I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.

It's right behind the buckets of steam.

Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.

Mike wrote:

Teflon coated muffler bearings work best especially if you straighten the
Johnson rod

You know, I grew up thinking that sending someone to the parts shop fopr a
"Johnson rod' was just a prank.

But, I later heard more than once that the throttle control rod in old tyme
steam locomotives was called a Johnson Rod, and if you check out the second item
on the page URL below it would seem that the term got applied to some gasoline
egine throttle parts too:

http://www.holleyparts.com/html/thro...age_parts.html

Jeff
--

Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone to
blame it on."



Or, maybe the guy who wrote the copy just couldn't resist a gag..

and use the pipe stretcher to compensate for any slack. Ceramic
coated bearings work best with catalytic converters. Don't use ceramic with
mahogany pistons as it won't go "wooden -wooden" when you mash the gas.
Always keep extra cans of compression and vacuum on hand as most auto parts
are not carrying it anymore. Seems it cuts down on engine parts sales.

"Richard W." wrote in message
...



Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

On Sun, 9 Nov 2003 21:50:33 -0500, "Peter Reilley"
wrote:


"Richard W." wrote in message
...



Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Leo Lichtman wrote:
Mike wrote: (clip) Don't use ceramic with mahogany pistons (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
I had an engine with mahogany pistons, but it wooden run.


I bet it was because the bull pin jumped the heffer shaft , try tie it
down with a few yards of shoreline

Ken Cutt

On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 04:15:51 GMT, Charles
wrote:

On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.


I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.

Nope, it's over by the key to the flagpole.

Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!

Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.

On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:33:04 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:


Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!

Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.

That's because it had been through the cracking process and subjected
to fractional distillation and could no longer be considered to be
extra-virgin oil.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Well the parts guy said the oil was for trailer lights and would work just
as good as headlight oil.. I know one thing, after blinking my head lights a
million times I had to change the alternator gasket and and bleed out all
the air get some new light virgin oil to replace it. Ever notice how wiper
blades only crap out when it's raining? They never give a problem when it's
not raining. They need something to keep them dry I guess. Seems like a
conspiracy to keep you buying wiper blades.

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:33:04 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:


Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!

Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one
time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.

That's because it had been through the cracking process and subjected
to fractional distillation and could no longer be considered to be
extra-virgin oil.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

That can only be done next to the viscous nut floaters.

Nick