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Welder November 8th 03 11:49 PM

Parts
 
Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?



Bob May November 9th 03 12:42 AM

Parts
 
Nah, just need a waterline eraser.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works evevery time it is tried!



Errol Groff November 9th 03 01:13 AM

Parts
 

Can muffler bearings be lubricated with the always popular K9P lube?



On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?



Gunner November 9th 03 02:09 AM

Parts
 
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner



"By calling attention to 'a well regulated militia', the 'security' of the
nation, and the right of each citizen 'to keep and bear arms', our founding
fathers recognized the essentially civilian nature of our economy. Although
it is extremely unlikely that the fears of governmental tyranny which gave
rise to the Second Amendment will ever be a major danger to our nation, the
Amendment still remains an important declaration of our basic
civilian-military relationships, in which every citizen must be ready to
participate in the defense of his country. For that reason, I believe the
Second Amendment will always be important."
-- Senator John F. Kennedy, (D) 1960

lane November 9th 03 03:29 AM

Parts
 

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which

mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner


How about some prop wash?



jim rozen November 9th 03 03:53 AM

Parts
 
In article , Errol Groff says...


Can muffler bearings be lubricated with the always popular K9P lube?


I always use blinker fluid for that application.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================


Larry Jaques November 9th 03 03:55 AM

Parts
 
On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 19:29:22 -0800, "lane"
lane_nospam@copperaccents_dot_com brought forth from the murky
depths:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which

mounts
next to a conniption valve?

No..but I need a hundred yards of flight line.

Gunner


How about some prop wash?


"Wow, that's a super short runway. WIDE, too!"

Asking a printer's assistant for a box of halftone dots is
always fun, too.


--------------------------------------------------------
Murphy was an Optimist
----------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Leo Lichtman November 9th 03 03:58 AM

Parts
 

lane wrote: How about some prop wash?
^^^^^^^^^^^
Be sure to use that with adequate ventilation.

BTW, is that an "overbearing?" 'Cause I a have a whole box of them right
under my raster straightener.



Charles November 9th 03 04:15 AM

Parts
 
On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.



I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.


--

- Charles
-
-does not play well with others

Mike November 9th 03 05:01 AM

Parts
 
Teflon coated muffler bearings work best especially if you straighten the
Johnson rod and use the pipe stretcher to compensate for any slack. Ceramic
coated bearings work best with catalytic converters. Don't use ceramic with
mahogany pistons as it won't go "wooden -wooden" when you mash the gas.
Always keep extra cans of compression and vacuum on hand as most auto parts
are not carrying it anymore. Seems it cuts down on engine parts sales.




Leo Lichtman November 9th 03 09:16 AM

Parts
 

Mike wrote: (clip) Don't use ceramic with mahogany pistons (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
I had an engine with mahogany pistons, but it wooden run.



KenSterling November 9th 03 11:38 AM

Parts
 

lane wrote: How about some prop wash?
^^^^^^^^^^^
Be sure to use that with adequate ventilation.

BTW, is that an "overbearing?" 'Cause I a have a whole box of them right
under my raster straightener.


Raster straightener?... you must be yokeing...


Carl Byrns November 9th 03 01:50 PM

Parts
 
On Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:49:28 GMT, "Welder"
wrote:

Anyone looking for a muffler bearing that goes to a skyhook which mounts
next to a conniption valve?


No, but I could use some High QRM non-cretesfrating Finnegan pins to
match some anti-slam gasketed Molly sprockets I picked up at the flea
market cheap.

-Carl

Wayne Bengtsson November 9th 03 03:08 PM

Parts
 

"Charles" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.



I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.

It's right behind the buckets of steam.



Richard W. November 10th 03 12:51 AM

Parts
 



Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.



Jeff Wisnia November 10th 03 01:26 AM

Parts
 


Mike wrote:

Teflon coated muffler bearings work best especially if you straighten the
Johnson rod


You know, I grew up thinking that sending someone to the parts shop fopr a
"Johnson rod' was just a prank.

But, I later heard more than once that the throttle control rod in old tyme
steam locomotives was called a Johnson Rod, and if you check out the second item
on the page URL below it would seem that the term got applied to some gasoline
egine throttle parts too:

http://www.holleyparts.com/html/thro...age_parts.html

Jeff
--

Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone to
blame it on."



Or, maybe the guy who wrote the copy just couldn't resist a gag..

and use the pipe stretcher to compensate for any slack. Ceramic
coated bearings work best with catalytic converters. Don't use ceramic with
mahogany pistons as it won't go "wooden -wooden" when you mash the gas.
Always keep extra cans of compression and vacuum on hand as most auto parts
are not carrying it anymore. Seems it cuts down on engine parts sales.






Peter Reilley November 10th 03 02:50 AM

Parts
 

"Richard W." wrote in message
...



Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.



Gerald Miller November 10th 03 04:00 AM

Parts
 
On Sun, 9 Nov 2003 21:50:33 -0500, "Peter Reilley"
wrote:


"Richard W." wrote in message
...



Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Ken Cutt November 10th 03 09:16 AM

Parts
 
Leo Lichtman wrote:
Mike wrote: (clip) Don't use ceramic with mahogany pistons (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
I had an engine with mahogany pistons, but it wooden run.


I bet it was because the bull pin jumped the heffer shaft , try tie it
down with a few yards of shoreline

Ken Cutt


Kent Fowler November 10th 03 08:25 PM

Parts
 
On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 04:15:51 GMT, Charles
wrote:

On Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:42:59 -0800, "Bob May"
wrote:

Nah, just need a waterline eraser.



I think that is on the shelf next to the relative bearing grease.


Nope, it's over by the key to the flagpole.

Mike November 11th 03 12:33 AM

Parts
 

Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!


Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.



Gerald Miller November 11th 03 03:42 AM

Parts
 
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:33:04 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:


Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!


Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.

That's because it had been through the cracking process and subjected
to fractional distillation and could no longer be considered to be
extra-virgin oil.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Mike November 11th 03 04:39 AM

Parts
 
Well the parts guy said the oil was for trailer lights and would work just
as good as headlight oil.. I know one thing, after blinking my head lights a
million times I had to change the alternator gasket and and bleed out all
the air get some new light virgin oil to replace it. Ever notice how wiper
blades only crap out when it's raining? They never give a problem when it's
not raining. They need something to keep them dry I guess. Seems like a
conspiracy to keep you buying wiper blades.




Welder November 12th 03 04:53 PM

Parts
 

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:33:04 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:


Now just how do you change the oil in the headlights?

Richard W.


Very difficult, can only be done by experts. ;-)

Pete.

Just remember that you absolutely must use light oil, none of that
heavy crude stuff!


Need to make sure the light oil is of the right viscosity. Got some one

time
and it turned out to be blinker oil.

That's because it had been through the cracking process and subjected
to fractional distillation and could no longer be considered to be
extra-virgin oil.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


That can only be done next to the viscous nut floaters.

Nick




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