"Ignoramus15937" wrote in message
...

You see the weld with slag removed, from both sides. I then used a
chop saw to cut the joined pieces to see what's happening in the
weld. To my surprise, the weld looked like it was original metal, no
sign of any dissimilarity or boundary.

It's very difficult to see dissimilarity and slight imperfections in metal
that has been rough cut. You should try grinding the cross-section smooth
and flat (a disc sander is ideal for this) and then polishing it. Then
you'll really see what's going on.

- Michael

On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:01:22 GMT, Ignoramus15937
wrote:

Comments will be appreciated, as always. Got 1 gauge welding cable
last night and played with the welder for 5 minutes today. To my
pleasant surprise, I can weld in the garage, it does not stink all
that much.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/02-Second-Weld/

This is my second butt weld. Two 1/8x1.25" flat pieces were placed
next to one another lengthwise. I set amperage to 80 amps, according
to Wayne. I used 6013 1/8" electrodes.

To weld them, I first tack welded them in two places, about 1/2" from
each end. Then I ran one bead on one side and then, one bead on
another. This operation consumed the remaining 2/3 of that electrode
(first 1/3 was used for the first weld).

You see the weld with slag removed, from both sides. I then used a
chop saw to cut the joined pieces to see what's happening in the
weld. To my surprise, the weld looked like it was original metal, no
sign of any dissimilarity or boundary.


Not bad for the second rod burned. You do need to take the same
pieces and just run one bead right next to the last till you fill the
metal up on both side. What this will do is help you with keep the arc
the same length (one of the reasons for the uneven looking weld), keep
the proper travel speed (another reason for the look), and just
overall let you get some time behind the rod which is one of the big
keys to good looking as well as strong welds.

It will take some time burning rod for the motions needed to become
semi automatic. Till at least some of the motions become semi
automatic you'll continue to have trouble. There's just to many things
to worry about while making a stick weld for you to be able to
concentrate on all of them at once. At least some of it needs to be
subconscious so that you can concentrate on the puddle and maintaining
a good even bead.

Looking at what you did on this bead I'd say you may still be a
little hot. That's not to bad for a beginner as long as you don't burn
through the plate. It's easier to run a rod hot and get a strong but
ugly weld. As you get experience you'll be able to get a strong
consistent weld at a lower amperage. It's just takes some practice for
that to happen. Try going slower in a even travel. Stick welding is
all about keeping a even travel speed with what ever motion is needed
for the rod. In this case you just need to do a stringer bead. No real
motion is needed except the steady advance of the rod. With 6013 being
a drag rod you should let the flux coating of the rod just touch the
seam before the weld. Pay attention to the metal puddle that follows
and not the flux. That's probably the hardest for beginners to learn.
The molten metal and molten flux will look different while you're
welding. Usually the metal will be brighter than the flux. Pay
attention to the trailing edge of the metal puddle. Make sure it's
flowing out to both sides of the weld smoothly and strive for a even
curve on the back side of the puddle. Admittedly with 6013 this is
harder to do because of the abundance of flux (one of the reasons I
don't like 6013) but it's still possible to do. If you have trouble
with this then try some 7018 (I recall that you got some when you got
rod). With 7018 it's much easier to see the metal puddle than with
6013 (the reason I like it). With a bead like you're doing I'd
recommend a slight side by side motion with 7018. It'll help reduce
the height of the bead and blend it better with the metal. When I say
side by side I mean slowly weave the rod across the puddle as you
advance. No quick motions are needed with stick welding (well at least
till you get to some of the fancier stuff). Just make a slight zig zag
down the seam. Actually touching the metal on each side of the seam
with the rod. Don't weave too wide. In this case with the thin metal
you're welding a weave no wider than the rod itself will be gobs.

There's still a lot more to it than what I've described above but
hopefully it'll help get you on the road to a more consistent bead.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:01:22 GMT, Ignoramus15937
wrote:

Comments will be appreciated, as always. Got 1 gauge welding cable
last night and played with the welder for 5 minutes today. To my
pleasant surprise, I can weld in the garage, it does not stink all
that much.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/02-Second-Weld/

This is my second butt weld. Two 1/8x1.25" flat pieces were placed
next to one another lengthwise. I set amperage to 80 amps, according
to Wayne. I used 6013 1/8" electrodes.

To weld them, I first tack welded them in two places, about 1/2" from
each end. Then I ran one bead on one side and then, one bead on
another. This operation consumed the remaining 2/3 of that electrode
(first 1/3 was used for the first weld).

You see the weld with slag removed, from both sides. I then used a
chop saw to cut the joined pieces to see what's happening in the
weld. To my surprise, the weld looked like it was original metal, no
sign of any dissimilarity or boundary.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

Son....you made some decent welds. Congratulations!

Your arc length varied considerably..as did your speed of travel..but
you indeed got the idea.

Now do as I suggested, and weld a bead alongside this bead. Then
another and another and so forth, until the plate is covered with
beads. Use the basics about arc length and speed to show you what is
going on with each technique. Lift the arc a bit for the first bead.
Stick the arc in the puddle for the next bead, and compare them..weld
fast, weld slow..compare. etc etc

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:01:22 GMT, Ignoramus15937
wrote:



http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/02-Second-Weld/

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

See the ads on the website. See Ig profit from your interest.

Ignoramus15937 wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:47:01 GMT, DeepDiver wrote:

"Ignoramus15937" wrote in message
...

You see the weld with slag removed, from both sides. I then used a
chop saw to cut the joined pieces to see what's happening in the
weld. To my surprise, the weld looked like it was original metal, no
sign of any dissimilarity or boundary.

It's very difficult to see dissimilarity and slight imperfections in metal
that has been rough cut. You should try grinding the cross-section smooth
and flat (a disc sander is ideal for this) and then polishing it. Then
you'll really see what's going on.


Here's what I tried.

I tried to do some destructive testing. I sliced a small slice across
the weld, put it in a vise and bent 90 degrees. Then I held it with
pliers and banged on it with a hammer, until it bent 180 degrees. It
bent and did not break.

The picture of the bent piece is in the same place.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/02-Second-Weld/

If you want to subject it to an even tougher test, cut a longer length
(say 2") and hold it in the vice as before. Then bend it back and forth
instead of bending it just once. Eventually something will break. If
you're really unlucky it will be your vice :-), but probably it will be
the weld. If you did a really strong weld it will be the parent metal.
This type of test shows up slag inclusions because the repeated bending
gives cracks which begin at the inclusions the opportunity to grow.

As others have said, that's pretty good for a second weld. Well done.
Keep practising and soon you will have something resembling a rusting
modernist sculpture in your back yard!

Chris

Ignoramus11514 wrote:

On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 05:06:07 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy
wrote:
Ignoramus15937 wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:47:01 GMT, DeepDiver
wrote:
"Ignoramus15937" wrote in
message
...

You see the weld with slag removed, from both sides. I then
used a chop saw to cut the joined pieces to see what's
happening in the weld. To my surprise, the weld looked like
it was original metal, no sign of any dissimilarity or
boundary.

It's very difficult to see dissimilarity and slight
imperfections in metal that has been rough cut. You should try
grinding the cross-section smooth and flat (a disc sander is
ideal for this) and then polishing it. Then you'll really see
what's going on.


Here's what I tried.

I tried to do some destructive testing. I sliced a small slice
across the weld, put it in a vise and bent 90 degrees. Then I held
it with pliers and banged on it with a hammer, until it bent 180
degrees. It bent and did not break.

The picture of the bent piece is in the same place.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/02-Second-Weld/

If you want to subject it to an even tougher test, cut a longer
length (say 2") and hold it in the vice as before. Then bend it
back and forth instead of bending it just once. Eventually
something will break. If you're really unlucky it will be your vice
:-), but probably it will be the weld. If you did a really strong
weld it will be the parent metal. This type of test shows up slag
inclusions because the repeated bending gives cracks which begin at
the inclusions the opportunity to grow.

Got it. I may try doing that.

As others have said, that's pretty good for a second weld. Well
done. Keep practising and soon you will have something resembling
a rusting modernist sculpture in your back yard!

Thanks, I have plenty of rusting modernist things in my yard.

As you said, I will practice quite a lot.

i
lid

Slow down i and get comfortable first, this is extremely important. You
can't get a good weld off balance and shaking.

Allow the rod to form a puddle approx. twice the width of the rod. If
you blow through, turn your heat down. You need to find the range your
welder wants to weld at and not a preset, every welder is different. I
only use a meter as a reference.

When the puddle forms, "slowly" lead it across the plate maintaining
the size of the puddle as best you can. "STAY WITH THE PUDDLE". It will
"appear" that the puddle is pushing the rod across the plate. The
result will be a weld of superior quality with a silvery bright line on
either side called fusion lines. Without fusion lines, any weld is
suspect.

rg, aaawelder

http://www.geocities.com/aaawelder/