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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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double headed coin
I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed
coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks. |
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doomtrain wrote:
I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks. get two coins, mill them down to half thickness; solder the two halves together. Any machinist could do this. Whether they would want to is another matter. |
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Roger_Nickel wrote:
doomtrain wrote: I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks. get two coins, mill them down to half thickness; solder the two halves together. Any machinist could do this. Whether they would want to is another matter. No, this is absolutely the wrong way to do this. The right way is to bore out one side of one coin, do the same with a second identical coin, remove the edge of that second coin and then press fit that into the bored out space of the first coin. Soldering two halves anneals the coins, and results in a coin that makes a thud on a hard surface when dropped. IF you are even capable of soldering the two halves together accurately which is highly questionable. Using "my" (I did not invent this) method, results in a double headed coin, that sounds just like a regular one when dropped onto a hard surface. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
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doomtrain wrote:
I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks. I have done this several times with nickels. The instructions for it I found once in this news group. Quite easy to do. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
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"Abrasha" wrote in message ... doomtrain wrote: I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks. I have done this several times with nickels. The instructions for it I found once in this news group. Quite easy to do. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com Indeed. ....and *don't* mill both faces flat. The join is then way too easy to spot. Instead, turn a recess in one face, leaving the rim intact. Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. A good press fit won't require solder, and if turned coincident with the rim will be virtually undetectable. A fun exercise - but if you just want a double-header, they're available for a few bucks on the 'net. Google is your friend. -- Jeff R. |
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"Jeff R" wrote in message
u... Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. A good press fit won't require solder, and if turned coincident with the rim will be virtually undetectable. So, how do you hold it to turn down the rim? A fun exercise - but if you just want a double-header, they're available for |
#7
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In article , Mike Young says...
So, how do you hold it to turn down the rim? One way would be with a pot collet and a pressure pad in the tailstock. The recess in the collet should be less than half the thickness of the coin - you'll need a setup like that anyway to face off half the thickness. So the drill would be: Put coin in pot collet, apply pressure via tailstock pad to face of coin. Turn half the rim down to the reduced diameter. Then swap to the second pot collet, which has a diamter sized for the turned-down portion. Install the coin the other way around and turn down the remaining half of the rim diameter. Then in the same setup pull back the pressure pad and carefully face half the thickness away. The advantage of the bore and press approach is you can do this on coins with "coining" (the knurling around the circumference) without having to match up the knurling when supergluing them together. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Which would be better, super glue or solder?
-- Roger Shoaf If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the Congress? "jim rozen" wrote in message ... In article , Mike Young says... So, how do you hold it to turn down the rim? One way would be with a pot collet and a pressure pad in the tailstock. The recess in the collet should be less than half the thickness of the coin - you'll need a setup like that anyway to face off half the thickness. So the drill would be: Put coin in pot collet, apply pressure via tailstock pad to face of coin. Turn half the rim down to the reduced diameter. Then swap to the second pot collet, which has a diamter sized for the turned-down portion. Install the coin the other way around and turn down the remaining half of the rim diameter. Then in the same setup pull back the pressure pad and carefully face half the thickness away. The advantage of the bore and press approach is you can do this on coins with "coining" (the knurling around the circumference) without having to match up the knurling when supergluing them together. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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jim rozen wrote:
In article , Mike Young says... So, how do you hold it to turn down the rim? One way would be with a pot collet and a pressure pad in the tailstock. The recess in the collet should be less than half the thickness of the coin - you'll need a setup like that anyway to face off half the thickness. So the drill would be: Put coin in pot collet, apply pressure via tailstock pad to face of coin. Turn half the rim down to the reduced diameter. Then swap to the second pot collet, which has a diamter sized for the turned-down portion. Install the coin the other way around and turn down the remaining half of the rim diameter. Then in the same setup pull back the pressure pad and carefully face half the thickness away. The advantage of the bore and press approach is you can do this on coins with "coining" (the knurling around the circumference) without having to match up the knurling when supergluing them together. Jim What's the best way to hold the other coin, the one you bore out? I'd think a soft collet recessed to suit ought to be safer than a chuck. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#10
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On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 17:50:24 +1000, Jeff R wrote:
...and *don't* mill both faces flat. The join is then way too easy to spot. Instead, turn a recess in one face, leaving the rim intact. OK, that's easy, but: Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. How do I hold it while I'm turning the OD, please? A fun exercise - but if you just want a double-header, they're available for a few bucks on the 'net. Google is your friend. |
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Dave Hinz wrote:
... Jeff R ... wrote: ...and *don't* mill both faces flat. The join is then way too easy to spot. Instead, turn a recess in one face, leaving the rim intact. OK, that's easy, but: Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. How do I hold it while I'm turning the OD, please? .... See Jim Rozen's post, and also see text and pictures at: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel21.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel22.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel23.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ickel2head.txt from "Two headed nickel" r.c.m thread of August 2003, http://groups.google.com/groups?q=%2...aded+nickel%22 That google groups page also lists a couple of 2-headed- coin suppliers, like another poster mentioned. However, the coins the OP wants joined are silver dollars, rather than nickels or quarters. Although his email to me didn't say, I presume that by silver dollars he means some pre-1935 coins, not Eisenhower's, Anthony's or Sacagawea's . -jiw |
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On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 12:45:48 -0600, James Waldby wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote: How do I hold it while I'm turning the OD, please? See Jim Rozen's post, and also see text and pictures at: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel21.jpg Thanks, James (and Jim)! Dave |
#13
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Correct these dollars are 1885 silver dollars.
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#14
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James Waldby wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote: ... Jeff R ... wrote: ...and *don't* mill both faces flat. The join is then way too easy to spot. Instead, turn a recess in one face, leaving the rim intact. OK, that's easy, but: Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. How do I hold it while I'm turning the OD, please? ... See Jim Rozen's post, and also see text and pictures at: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel21.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel22.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/nickel23.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ickel2head.txt from "Two headed nickel" r.c.m thread of August 2003, http://groups.google.com/groups?q=%2...aded+nickel%22 Those were exactly the instructions I was talking about before. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
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