I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was manufactured 3 years
ago. Instruction states that if stored for two years bearings must be replaced or grease
changed or grease must be totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Alex wrote:
I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was
manufactured 3 years ago. Instruction states that if stored for two
years bearings must be replaced or grease changed or grease must be
totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP

It will most likely be fine as it is. This is probably just a sort of
disclaimer the manufacturer adds to the instructions. Pump some more
grease into the bearings if there are grease nipples present. If not,
you could dismantle and inspect the grease - it's generally pretty easy
to tell if the grease has dried out.

What makes you think it is underpowered?

Chris

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:

I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was
manufactured 3 years ago. Instruction states that if stored for two
years bearings must be replaced or grease changed or grease must be
totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP


It will most likely be fine as it is. This is probably just a sort of
disclaimer the manufacturer adds to the instructions. Pump some more
grease into the bearings if there are grease nipples present. If not,
you could dismantle and inspect the grease - it's generally pretty easy
to tell if the grease has dried out.

What makes you think it is underpowered?

Chris

Alex wrote:
I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex

What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if
my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex


What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of steel or aluminum
quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V
# Frame: F56H
# RPM: 1750
# Full Load Amps: 17.4/8.70 A
# Efficiency (100%): 76.5
# Power factor (100%): 0.72
# Insulation: B
# Noise: ---
# No load current: 11.8/5.90 A
# In Rush (Times): 6.5

Full Load Amps 17.4/8.70 A
In Rush (Times) 6.5
Locked Rotor Torque 280 %
Break Down Torque 260 %


Thanks,
Alex

Alex wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if
my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex



What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of
steel or aluminum quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V

Check that the motor isn't wired for 208-230 V. There should be two main
windings connected in parallel for 115 V operation, or series for
208-230 V operation. There will also be a start winding. For operation
at the lower voltage the start winding is connected directly across the
supply by the centrifugal switch. For operation at the higher voltage
one end of the start winding is connected to the point at which the two
main windings are joined, and the other end to the centrifugal switch.

To test your supply voltage you need to set your multimeter to measure
AC volts. Most have a 250 V range which would be the best to choose.
Figure out a safe method to connect the meter in parallel with your
motor. Don't just try to push the probes against the terminals under the
motor cover. Be careful!

Best wishes,

Chris

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person
Thanks,
Alex

In article , Alex
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person
Thanks,
Alex
Make sure that the motor is wired for 110 volts and not the higher one.

Chuck P.

Alex wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:
Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I
can check if my wiring can handle the load? I have a
multimeter.

Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when
it is loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to
the load -- quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically
illiterate person

Uh, do you know enough to not electrocute yourself? Did the motor come
with instructions? If so did the instructions describe wiring options
for both 110V and 220V?

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 18:36:45 GMT, Alex wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person

Then I would respectfully suggest that you don't attempt it. Get
someone who is familiar with electricity to help you.

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

wrote:
Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes
It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes
It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.

Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry