1.5HP motor problem
 

I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was manufactured 3 years
ago. Instruction states that if stored for two years bearings must be replaced or grease
changed or grease must be totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Alex wrote:
I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was
manufactured 3 years ago. Instruction states that if stored for two
years bearings must be replaced or grease changed or grease must be
totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP

It will most likely be fine as it is. This is probably just a sort of
disclaimer the manufacturer adds to the instructions. Pump some more
grease into the bearings if there are grease nipples present. If not,
you could dismantle and inspect the grease - it's generally pretty easy
to tell if the grease has dried out.

What makes you think it is underpowered?

Chris

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:

I just got a WEG Brazilian brand motor on eBay. It's new but was
manufactured 3 years ago. Instruction states that if stored for two
years bearings must be replaced or grease changed or grease must be
totally replaced. Also capacitors must be replaced.
If I do all of the above cost of the motor will probably triple.

Motor runs but seems to be underpowered for it's rating - NEMA 1.5HP


It will most likely be fine as it is. This is probably just a sort of
disclaimer the manufacturer adds to the instructions. Pump some more
grease into the bearings if there are grease nipples present. If not,
you could dismantle and inspect the grease - it's generally pretty easy
to tell if the grease has dried out.

What makes you think it is underpowered?

Chris

Alex wrote:
I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex

What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if
my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex


What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of steel or aluminum
quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V
# Frame: F56H
# RPM: 1750
# Full Load Amps: 17.4/8.70 A
# Efficiency (100%): 76.5
# Power factor (100%): 0.72
# Insulation: B
# Noise: ---
# No load current: 11.8/5.90 A
# In Rush (Times): 6.5

Full Load Amps 17.4/8.70 A
In Rush (Times) 6.5
Locked Rotor Torque 280 %
Break Down Torque 260 %


Thanks,
Alex

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person:)
Thanks,
Alex

In article , Alex
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person:)
Thanks,
Alex
Make sure that the motor is wired for 110 volts and not the higher one.

Chuck P.

Alex wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if
my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex



What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of
steel or aluminum quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V

Check that the motor isn't wired for 208-230 V. There should be two main
windings connected in parallel for 115 V operation, or series for
208-230 V operation. There will also be a start winding. For operation
at the lower voltage the start winding is connected directly across the
supply by the centrifugal switch. For operation at the higher voltage
one end of the start winding is connected to the point at which the two
main windings are joined, and the other end to the centrifugal switch.

To test your supply voltage you need to set your multimeter to measure
AC volts. Most have a 250 V range which would be the best to choose.
Figure out a safe method to connect the meter in parallel with your
motor. Don't just try to push the probes against the terminals under the
motor cover. Be careful!

Best wishes,

Chris

Alex wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:
Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I
can check if my wiring can handle the load? I have a
multimeter.

Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when
it is loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to
the load -- quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically
illiterate person:)

Uh, do you know enough to not electrocute yourself? Did the motor come
with instructions? If so did the instructions describe wiring options
for both 110V and 220V?

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 18:36:45 GMT, Alex wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 17:16:47 GMT, Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.


Using your multimeter, observe line voltage at the motor when it is
loaded. If the voltage dips, your wiring isn't up to the load --
quite likely with 1927 wiring.

Please tell me exactly how to do it. I am an electrically illiterate person:)

Then I would respectfully suggest that you don't attempt it. Get
someone who is familiar with electricity to help you.

When I turn on the motor I can see that light bulb above me gets dimmer for a second.
I now realize it might be a sign of a voltage dip. Am I right?

Thanks,
Alex



Alex wrote:

Christopher Tidy wrote:

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check
if my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex




What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the data
plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of
steel or aluminum quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V


Check that the motor isn't wired for 208-230 V. There should be two main
windings connected in parallel for 115 V operation, or series for
208-230 V operation. There will also be a start winding. For operation
at the lower voltage the start winding is connected directly across the
supply by the centrifugal switch. For operation at the higher voltage
one end of the start winding is connected to the point at which the two
main windings are joined, and the other end to the centrifugal switch.

To test your supply voltage you need to set your multimeter to measure
AC volts. Most have a 250 V range which would be the best to choose.
Figure out a safe method to connect the meter in parallel with your
motor. Don't just try to push the probes against the terminals under the
motor cover. Be careful!

Best wishes,

Chris

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my wiring can
handle the load? I have a multimeter.

See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

A dimmed light is not great but quite common. It is a sign of undersized
wiring back to the breaker box and beyond (or an excessively large load
for the particular circuit). BUT....... if the bulb comes back up to
full brightness, you should have enough power to run your motor at full
speed/power.

Stick the leads from your multimerter (set to the voltmeter) into the
other plug on the wall outlet, measure the voltage. Turn the motor on,
see how much voltage sag you get at startup and at run. It should start
at 120 to 125 volts (standard power company voltage) will certainly drop
to something like 105 to 110 volts, then come back up to close to the
starting voltage. You want to measure as accurately as you can the
DIFFERENCE between no load and running load. A couple of volts
difference is normal, 6 or 8 volts difference is a sign of wiring issues.

Alex wrote:
When I turn on the motor I can see that light bulb above me gets dimmer
for a second.
I now realize it might be a sign of a voltage dip. Am I right?

Thanks,
Alex



Alex wrote:

Christopher Tidy wrote:

Alex wrote:

I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check
if my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.

Thanks,
Alex





What does the motor data plate say? Do you have a picture of the
data plate? What voltage is the supply in your house?

How did you stall it? With a long wooden stick or what?

Chris

It's a metal 2x72 grinder. I can stall it by grinding small piece of
steel or aluminum quite easy.
I have 115V in my house.

It's a WEG motor model #00158ES1BF56C.
you can find it on www.wegelectric.com/catalog

Here is the specs:
# Output: 1.5 HP
# Poles: 4
# Frequency: 60 Hz
# Torque: 4.44 lb.ft
# Voltage: 115/208-230 V



Check that the motor isn't wired for 208-230 V. There should be two
main windings connected in parallel for 115 V operation, or series for
208-230 V operation. There will also be a start winding. For operation
at the lower voltage the start winding is connected directly across
the supply by the centrifugal switch. For operation at the higher
voltage one end of the start winding is connected to the point at
which the two main windings are joined, and the other end to the
centrifugal switch.

To test your supply voltage you need to set your multimeter to measure
AC volts. Most have a 250 V range which would be the best to choose.
Figure out a safe method to connect the meter in parallel with your
motor. Don't just try to push the probes against the terminals under
the motor cover. Be careful!

Best wishes,

Chris

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
Alex wrote:


I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes
It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.

Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry

When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true reading) then
goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Jerry Martes wrote:
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes

It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.


Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry

Alex wrote:
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a
true reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there
while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

I would say 70 V is too big a drop. That's losing more than a third of
the supply voltage.

You might find it easier to visualise the situation if you use an
analogue multimeter.

Chris

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true
reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while
motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex


Alex

I have been assuming that you are curious to know if your new 1 1/2 HP
motor is working properly. Now you ask if the input voltage as supplied by
your house is adequet for this motor.

Get a voltmeter that connects to your computer and a program to save the
data from its readings. Then it is easy to record the voltage at the input
to the motor as a function of time. Excel will allow you to display a
graph of the line voltage as a function of time. If you get a data saving
program that is fast enough, it is easy to see exactly what voltage is
existant at the motor input terminals at any time.
Or, you can go to a neighbor's house and try the motor there.

If *I* was asked to make a guess at whats wrong with the 1 1/2 HP motor,
I'd guess nothing.

Jerry







Jerry Martes wrote:
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if
my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes

It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.


Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the
friend with the newest house.

Jerry

What kind of place is your shop? Normal residential wiring should be at *least*
110V and usually more like 117V. 108V makes me wonder if your power is some
weird split off of 3-phase or something. Low voltage for sure means less power.

GWE

Alex wrote:
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a
true reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there
while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Jerry Martes wrote:

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check
if my wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.



See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes


It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.



Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP
motor wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the
friend with the newest house.

Jerry

Alex wrote:
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true
reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while
motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Jerry Martes wrote:
I have been assuming that you are curious to know if your new 1 1/2 HP
motor is working properly. Now you ask if the input voltage as supplied by
your house is adequet for this motor.

Get a voltmeter that connects to your computer and a program to save the
data from its readings. Then it is easy to record the voltage at the input
to the motor as a function of time. Excel will allow you to display a
graph of the line voltage as a function of time. If you get a data saving
program that is fast enough, it is easy to see exactly what voltage is
existant at the motor input terminals at any time.
Or, you can go to a neighbor's house and try the motor there.

If *I* was asked to make a guess at whats wrong with the 1 1/2 HP motor,
I'd guess nothing.

I wouldn't want to run a desktop PC on a supply that drops to 70V. If
its normally about 115V, its dropping to about 60%. That is probably
going to crash the PC. He's posting from a windows box and glitching
the power like that is a good way of scrambling the hard drive. OTOH if
he has a UPS or a laptop, a PC connected meter is a great idea.

The other concern is, what if his excessive voltage drop is cause by a
bad neutral. If that drop to 70V is appearing as a surge to 160V on the
opposite phase and the PC is on that phase I'd reckon on getting some PC
repair/replacement business off him if he was near me.

Beware of the PC scope pods. Many of them are not capable of handling
mains voltages without 100:1 probes (remember its the PEAK voltage that
counts : 1.415 * Vrms) and aren't isolated. OK if the PC is a laptop
sitting on a rubber mat running off its own battery with no other leads
or devices connected to it apart from the scope pod, and if the operator
has the skills to work with a floating scope without winning a Darwion
award. If you are doing data acquisition with mains voltages, an
infra-red keyboad + mouse combo is cheap insurance against getting shocked.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=.
*Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must.

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 20:50:16 GMT, Alex wrote:

When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true reading) then
goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Yes.

Gunner


Jerry Martes wrote:
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes

It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.


Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry

In article ,
Alex wrote:

When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true
reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while motor
is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

If it's true, it's too much of a drop. But digital voltmeters aren't
good with rapid change, and will lie: The 70 volt reading may mean no
more than the voltmeter was fooled. Try an analog meter.

Or, as was suggested elsewhere, take the motor to a new house to try.

Joe


Thanks,
Alex

Jerry Martes wrote:
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes

It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.


Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry

You tell us the voltage drops to 108VAC but you don't tell us what the
original voltage was. Also is this the only motor you have? It seems
almost certain that you have a house wiring problem. Go buy a book on
house wiring.


Alex wrote:
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure
if it's a true reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V
and stays there while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Alex - if you haven't already, connect your meter to the line side of the
motor switch, not the motor side. If you see 70 volts then, more measuring
is probably needed.

Hul

Alex wrote:
When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure if it's a true reading) then
goes blank for a second then 108V and stays there while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Jerry Martes wrote:
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..

wrote:

Alex wrote:



I shouldn't be able to stall it easily. But I can.
Some one suggested it might be the circuitry and wiring.
I have original 1927 wiring in my house. Is it any way I can check if my
wiring can handle the load? I have a multimeter.


See what voltage is at motor prior and after stalling. BTW, 120 or
240 motor?

Wes

It's a 120/240 volt motor wired for 120v.


Alex

You have probably just checked your wiring. An unloaded 1 1/2 HP motor
wont dim the lights in a properly wired home.
Take the motor to a friend's house and test it there. Choose the friend
with the newest house.

Jerry

Voltage in the line is 115V.

Dave wrote:
You tell us the voltage drops to 108VAC but you don't tell us what the
original voltage was. Also is this the only motor you have? It seems
almost certain that you have a house wiring problem. Go buy a book on
house wiring.


Alex wrote:

When motor starting my meter shows 70V momentarily(not sure
if it's a true reading) then goes blank for a second then 108V
and stays there while motor is running with no load.

Is this too much of a drop?

Thanks,
Alex

Alex wrote:

Voltage in the line is 115V. [...] drops to 108VAC [...]

Basically the answer is that you need to have your house wiring looked
at. Can't really make a solid judgement about the motor. Take the motor
somewhere else and try it. House wiring is not really very complex but
extremely old house wiring can be strange and can also be a fire
hazard. You should become familiar with your wiring so as to make an
informed decision about what needs to be done about it. At a minimum
you may need a new circuit installed to your shop area.