Hi Gang,
My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

Again, thanks in advance

I did exactly this with my metal bender from HF and finding a place in
an all ready much to small and cramped shop. It almopst needs to be
mounted in ther biggest area for room for the stock to move, and what
I did was use a pice of 1/2 or 5/8 inch plate I had and milled a hard
bevel on the edges, so it would not be a stumbling block or a catch
all with dirt and chips etc. Then drilled 6 holes of 1/2" diameter in
it around the edges. I also drilled a series of other holes that I
tapped with various sizes of threads 5/16"-18, 3/8, 1/2 etc
etc........I then used the plate to drill through the previously
drilled 1/2 inch holes to mark where I need to drill for masonary
anchors.. I used the wedge type studs which are 1/2" diam studs. I
made a longer post (had bench mount bender) and added a plate on the
bottom of the benders post from 5/16" plate wh9ch was made
approximaately 2 inches wider and longer than the post itself. I
drilled this for 3/8" sized bolts, and then marked the plate on the
floor, and drilled and tapped holes to match the plate on the bottom
of the benders post. I have the plate on the floor bolted permanently
in place and its not a trip hazzard, and when I need to use the bender
I just place it on the plate and use 4 bolts to fasten it to thre
drilled and tapped holes in the floor plate. I use the other h9loes
for attaching various other objects, like a bracket for a winch to
drag things into the shop, as well as a vehicle that does not run, or
use it to bolt varous steel pieces to to form or bend heavier items
with my porta power. IIRC the floor plate is 14" x 17" becasue thats
what I had handy and it is 5/8" thick, but I am sure 1/4 or 3/8 would
be sufficient for the bender. Once bolted down its solid as a rock and
pulling against it I seriously doubt I would exceed the sheer strength
of 6 ...1/2" studs

On 15 Aug 2005 17:38:07 -0700, "CAMCOMPCO"
wrote:

===
===Hi Gang,
===My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
===competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
===a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
===floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
===sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
===question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
===way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
===(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
===2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
===drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
===over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)
===
===Again, thanks in advance


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

Ted Edwards I believe wrote up something about his floor post mountings. Might
try google groups...

GWE

CAMCOMPCO wrote:

Hi Gang,
My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

Again, thanks in advance

In article .com,
"CAMCOMPCO" wrote:

Hi Gang,
My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

MSC sells epoxy-in anchors with machine-screw threads, in zinc plated or
stainless steel. One could epoxy these into the floor, and bolt the
metal bender down when needed. MSC offers bolt sizes from 1/4 to 1".

The 1/2" zinc-plated carbon steel anchor is MSC 84690254.

The trick will be getting these straight. I would make some kind of
fixture to ensure that a waxed bolt into the anchor is held
perpendicular to the floor while the epoxy cures.

Joe Gwinn

CAMCOMPCO writes:

I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender.

Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical
axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. This means you are
better off with a bigger footprint baseplate with lighter anchors on the
outside. I would propose something like a 2 ft square steel baseplate 1/4
in thick, held down by Tapcons on the corners, with drilled/tapped holes of
diameter matching the bender foot holes, and likewise diameter stubby hold-
down bolts cut to the length to just reach the bottom of the plate.

Think of it as impedance-matching the material strength of concrete vs
steel.

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
"CAMCOMPCO" wrote:

Hi Gang,
My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

MSC sells epoxy-in anchors with machine-screw threads, in zinc plated or
stainless steel. One could epoxy these into the floor, and bolt the
metal bender down when needed. MSC offers bolt sizes from 1/4 to 1".

The 1/2" zinc-plated carbon steel anchor is MSC 84690254.

The trick will be getting these straight. I would make some kind of
fixture to ensure that a waxed bolt into the anchor is held
perpendicular to the floor while the epoxy cures.

Joe Gwinn

FWIW I agree with Joe's plan here...My bender is mounted with 4 - 1/2"
studs epoxied into the floor in about a 8 1/2" square (the stock hole
pattern of the bender) and it is wayyy strong enough. I do realize that
this is opposite the way you want to do it -- Male instead of Female -- But
it's the same difference And the fixture to hold them straight is a
great plan - A piece of 1/4" plywood to match the base of your bender should
do....

I used T88 epoxy from System Three --- www.epoxyhelp.com

Your basement floor should be about 4" thick....I think I went about 3" deep
on my studs, and I cleaned out the holes real good before the epoxy.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical
axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. ...

I don't think so. Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4'
long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle
attached at the top. Pull horizontally on the handle's *end*,
perpendicular to it. How does it deform? Mostly by bending in a
vertical plane and not as much around its axis.

I'm sure that a mechanical engineer could tell us just how much in each
"degree", but I'm not up to that.

Bob

It seems to me that sleeves right through the floor are a lot more
useful than a surface mounted plate. Either would probably work for a
bender, but if you have a sleeve into the floor, you can mount all kinds
of neat stuff in it. Of course, a sleeve through the floor is a lot more
work if the floor already exists. Ideally, it is attached to (i.e.
rebar) a lump of concrete under the floor considerably larger than the
sleeve. The idea is to make the sleeve as immobile as the building.

Think about things you want to pound on, lever against (a flat plate
would only be good for torisional), etc. Maybe you want two or three of
them...

Steve

CAMCOMPCO wrote:

Hi Gang,
My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

Again, thanks in advance

Bob Engelhardt writes:

Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4'
long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle
attached at the top.

The bender has a big footprint that spreads the moments.

A resourceful user would extend the handle both ways to eliminate the
tipping force.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
The bender has a big footprint that spreads the moments.

I see one here that has a 10" square base:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31980
I would think that one would need considerable constraint to keep it
from tipping as well as from twisting. I wonder how big the footprint
would have to be to minimize the need to constrain it from tipping.

A resourceful user would extend the handle both ways to eliminate the
tipping force.

So instead of a 44" handle extending one way, the "resourceful user"
would have it extending 22" each way? Then you couldn't lean on it and
the bender geometry would make that kinda' difficult to build. I
suppose that it could be done, but I've never seen one like that.

Bob

if your floor is thick enough , core drill a six inch hole through , deepen
it too about 18
inches , place a piece oh 4x4 square tubing in hole , fill the outside to
flush and the inside to 12 inches deep , make a cover and voila you have a
permanent female socket that will handle anything you want to bend

In article ,
says...
Richard J Kinch wrote:
Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical
axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. ...

I don't think so. Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4'
long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle
attached at the top. Pull horizontally on the handle's *end*,
perpendicular to it. How does it deform? Mostly by bending in a
vertical plane and not as much around its axis.

But...as the handle gets longer, assuming a constant force applied at
its end, the tendency to bend the rod does not change, but the twisting
moment increases with the length of the lever. So at some point the
shear on the fixing bolts will exceed the tension.


I'm sure that a mechanical engineer could tell us just how much in each
"degree", but I'm not up to that.


Just keep repeating,

The sum of the forces equals zero;
The sum of the moments equals zero;
You can't push a rope

All you need to know to be a CE g.

Ned Simmons

I borrow a bender occasionally and use it outdoors where there is room.
The temporary base for it is a big cross of planks or steel beams,
which I stand on while pushing the handle. If that isn't enough I clamp
a crowbar to the square column right below the top flange and pull
between it and the handle. No rigid mount required.

jw