I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the other
hoses are getting old.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these hard
to get to hoses.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified to
fit).

Thanks!

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 17:05:48 GMT, RogerN wrote:
I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the other
hoses are getting old.

Absolutely the right thing to do. Same hassle, slightly more cost, and
you won't be redoing it next year when the next hose goes.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

On my Ford backhoe, the valve body had close ports for all the hoses.
Taking them off from the outside towards the inside helped (mark 'em so
you know what goes where). There's something like a tall crow foot
socket-ish type thing that a friend of mine lent me, but it looked
home-made.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these hard
to get to hoses.

Do you have a local snap-on guy? Have him drive out with the van & see
what works, then buy it from him.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified to
fit).

Do yourself a favor and pressure-wash the area before you start. Makes
the whole job a whole lot less unpleasant. BTDT. Also, might go
without saying, but you might get better physical access either from
above, or if you move the boom to one side rather than the other?
I don't know your particular model, but I can't see there being too much
difference. Either way, gotta get good torque on 'em to get them loose,
and to get them tight again. The right socket/wrench is gonna have to
be found.

Dave Hinz

What Ford do you have?
"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 17:05:48 GMT, RogerN wrote:
I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the
other
hoses are getting old.

Absolutely the right thing to do. Same hassle, slightly more cost, and
you won't be redoing it next year when the next hose goes.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get
tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

On my Ford backhoe, the valve body had close ports for all the hoses.
Taking them off from the outside towards the inside helped (mark 'em so
you know what goes where). There's something like a tall crow foot
socket-ish type thing that a friend of mine lent me, but it looked
home-made.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I
saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought
the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items
from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these
hard
to get to hoses.

Do you have a local snap-on guy? Have him drive out with the van & see
what works, then buy it from him.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified to
fit).

Do yourself a favor and pressure-wash the area before you start. Makes
the whole job a whole lot less unpleasant. BTDT. Also, might go
without saying, but you might get better physical access either from
above, or if you move the boom to one side rather than the other?
I don't know your particular model, but I can't see there being too much
difference. Either way, gotta get good torque on 'em to get them loose,
and to get them tight again. The right socket/wrench is gonna have to
be found.

Dave Hinz

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 16:04:03 -0400, Waynemak wrote:
What Ford do you have?

The 5600, and sadly, it's a "did you have" at this point. Wasn't using
it enough to justify the repairs. But, why do you ask? Nice machine,
and I'm pretty comfortable with more than a few technical aspects of it.

Dave Hinz

here is a machine I think I will be buying

http://www.motherearthrecycling.net/ford/ford.htm


"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 16:04:03 -0400, Waynemak
wrote:
What Ford do you have?

The 5600, and sadly, it's a "did you have" at this point. Wasn't using
it enough to justify the repairs. But, why do you ask? Nice machine,
and I'm pretty comfortable with more than a few technical aspects of it.

Dave Hinz

I also have a Ford (36 years old) and have also done this job on it -
don't know how much the Case will be different, but several hints...

Clean it out/off before you start. Park on a clean surface if possible.
keep a roll of aluminum foil handy to cap off fittings as soon as you
open them (dirt is really bad news in hydrualics). I suppose you could
get a bunch of the little plastic caps that come on new lines and
fittings if you can find where to order them, or have a nice tractor
dealer that will let you have the used ones they would toss in the
trash. Close-in fittings often have to be removed from the outside in -
even if the first 4 hoses you need to remove are fine. Sometimes both
ends need to be removed, as the close-in end does not rotate. This is a
drag, but that's how it is done (on some Fords, anyway).

Have lots of tags or markers to mark mating hoses before you don't know
what is (was) connected to what. Draw maps, take pictures, consult
service manuals (if they are specific enough - often not as good as
you'd like). Color code.

Despite what you might think (oily hydrualics), considerable
"penetrating oil of choice" on the connections may help. If the
connection is not leaking, the connection threads my be dry or rusty,
with the oil sealed in as designed.

Sometimes you may not have room to remove the connection you need to
remove - but you might be able to remove connections on the same line
beyond it. Then you can pull the whole line out to where you can apply
wrenches with 3 foot cheater bars and get the connection you need to
remove opened up.

If the hard lines have clamps, you may gain some wrench room by
loosening the clamps on the hard lines so that you can wiggle the ends
where the hoses are attached. Remember to tighten when the job is done.

Don't kink the new hoses.

Make sure that before you crack a line that it is not under pressure!.
After the hoe is parked put the boom on the ground, and then after the
engine is stopped work all the levers a few times to allow the pressure to
relieve. If you crack a hose while it is holding up an arm the arm is going
to drop. Don't get hurt.
lg
no neat sig line.

"RogerN" wrote in message
ink.net...
I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the
other
hoses are getting old.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items
from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these
hard
to get to hoses.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified to
fit).

Thanks!

"RogerN" wrote in
ink.net:


Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get
to hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe
modified to fit).

Get yourself a set of tubing wrenches. These are specially designed to fit
over the hose, then slip down on the fitting nut. They have the correct
clearance for the placement of the hoses.





--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

RogerN wrote:
I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the other
hoses are getting old.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these hard
to get to hoses.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified to
fit).

Make sure the conical sealing surfaces are free from dirt and undamaged
(assuming this is how the hoses seal). I fitted a new hose on a backhoe
stabiliser leg and couldn't get it to seal. I did it up a bit tighter
and the fitting broke (it was only a 1/4" hose I think). So make sure
the cones are undamaged and free from dirt, and don't overtighten them
like I did. Tighten them a little and if they ooze oil tighten them a
bit more. I only did that once, but it was a real pain because I had to
take it 20 miles get a new end crimped onto the hose!

Chris

On Thu, 16 Jun 2005 04:30:50 GMT, Anthony wrote:

Get yourself a set of tubing wrenches. These are specially designed to fit
over the hose, then slip down on the fitting nut. They have the correct
clearance for the placement of the hoses.

THAT is what he called 'em. Yes, they helped a lot.

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
RogerN wrote:
I have a busted hose on my backhoe between the valves and the boom. I
decided to replace all 4 hoses in this area while I'm at it, since the
other
hoses are getting old.

I have changed one of these hoses before and it was difficult to get
tools
to the fittings and getting enough torque on them to break things free.

I have since bought crow foot wrenches to fit the hoses & fittings. I
saw
some 6 and 12 pt flare crow foot wrenches in McMaster Carr and thought
the
12 pt might allow better access to the flare nuts at the valve bank (not
much clearance between nuts). Anyway, I'm needing to order some items
from
McMaster Carr and would like to have the best tools for changing these
hard
to get to hoses.

Any suggestions on tools or techinques for replacing the hard to get to
hoses on a backhoe (Case 580B with model 32(I think) backhoe modified
to
fit).

Not sure of the exact situation here, but one trick I have used (that
nobody else seems to do) - if you are going to replace the hoses
anyway, cut them off at the fitting - then you can get a socket down
over the remaining fitting and take it out. (note - the reverse process
does not apply for putting the new ones on !!)

mikey